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You could add a tank and CO2 ppm controller to the mix. The tank should last over a month.

You will want an adjustable fan like the Hyperfan (8"fan 75 watts). I have that hooked to a thermostat/hemostat fan controller. Last thing you want is an AC for this (12,000btu portable 1200+watts, minisplit 12,000 btu 700watts and no smell loss). If you need extra heat, a dehumidifier (70pint...

I also try to have all my fans as high as possible aiming down past the light and into the canopy.

What tent temps are you guys trying to maintain? Unless you're over 85*f, you need that heat for better transpiration. I try to let my temps bounce between 78*f and 86*(with or without CO2).

In mid flower I am up to 3 waterings per day. It really depends on strain and plant size, sometimes I use 4 per 3x3 up to 9 per 3x3. I also have 2 per 2x4 ( canopy is more like 3x5) those should be in the 8 plus range. Grams per square foot change more from strain differences than from plant...

Indoor or outdoor/soil or coco? I'm indoor and in coco and have moved down to 2g. The advantage of the cloth pots in coco is feeding more often, plus better o2 into the root zone. 6-9 per 2g is easily possible.

You said big COBs. CLU058 3618 @ 250 watts or the newest CLU059 1825 @ 165 watts.

I would use both, that is a lot of current for one line. I have always used both.

look at the hlg120-1400. I think you can get 80w each running in series with this driver. I get 165 watts with this driver on the CLU058 3618.

instead of a heater, use a dehumidifier for your heat.

I also like the hyperfans because of the excellent efficiency and the dimmer. Hook this up to a thermostat/humidity controller.

With either setup, I would use a dehumidifier to help with humidity and add heat when needed. And yes, you can use the air from inside, which will have a higher c02 level.

Try to get the temperature closer to 27*C. Leaf temperature is about 20-21*c since there is no IR to aid in warming of the leaves. Colder temps lead to slow transpiration rate and sometimes looks like a Calcium and/or magnesium.

I would go with 3000 Kelvin 90 CRI. I have found it to grow/stretch more like an HPS. 4000 k has to much blue for me.

If you are looking for higher output per light, look at the HO T-5s leds.

I just did a veg test to see the difference. One side was under 6500k and the other a 3000K 90CRI with 3 strains and a few of each. The difference I saw was minimal. Only an 1" or 2" @ 20"-24" tall. You will be fine with the 3000K. Now in flower, the difference between different color temps...

I am in a similar size room and my 70 Ideal Air dehu is just enough. I do have to run it on turbo, but not on turbo continuous. Bigger is better, otherwise it will have to run continuously.

Even in the US, you can get pre-charged units. For a bit more money you can get the quick disconnect. This is the one I have. By myself, it took less than an hour and a half to more the unit for one room to another. With the pre charged, it has steps to purge the unit after the lines are...

@Forbinwasblue Do you have those dehumidifiers on continuous and turbo? I found my 70 pint needed to be on turbo mode atleast and sometimes continuous.

Heat is spread over a larger area, meaning it is spreading into the heatsink from multiple points of less heat instead of one hotter point. Just by mounting your room fans above the lights and aiming down to the canopy, can drop Tc a bunch.