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UV diodes with optics sure didn't work in this old Adavanced XLM 150. But I was looking for, If you found the use of optics a plus or minus with our LED's of today.

@Randomblame , have you noticed any deterioration from the use of UV led's ? I'm starting to notice quite a bit of deterioration of the connectors from my lumi uv stars from Rapid. Also some thought on your use of optics with led's.

Why not just run 15 on 9 off ? Running multi lighting during the 24 hour days is counter productive as the plant has to wake back up to start photosynthesizing again. An hour of light is just starting to let the plant get in to the peak photosynthesis again.

Yes, I experienced what most seemed too when switching to LED's. My first flowers under them I was ashamed of and I did the higher temp and keeping VPD in check as most state on here to do it helped some but didn't cure the underlying problem. I'm sort of in trim jail right now, so if you want...

What's the average RH of the mountains of Afghanistan or the average RH on the equator? But yet our plants grow in both those regions and many more from the arctic circle to the equator.

But optimal conditions don't exist in nature as a whole as plants have adapted to their environments they are cultivated in.

In nature outdoors VPD is variable depending on time of day and season, it's not a set in stone number.

I don't run a humidifier for either and I grow under 77 degrees with both. I don't fudge with VPD or temps as long as my RH is between 40-60 %. I even run my dehumidifier in my flower room 365 days a year.

Then you have to guess why the price difference is such. I'm not saying you can't use it. Just the gain in efficiency vs cost becomes small within a few runs.

No IP67 rating for the LRS, meaning the LRS is not suited for wet or damp locations.

Yes, 400 ppm out of the tap here with almost 300 ppm of that as cal-carbonate.

No, I was giving an example of what 23 w sq ft can do.

Post 43 is 23 w sq ft in flower.

That's under 600 watts of HPS. For LED's you'll want something like this.

Like this.

Cali-Magic is cal-carbonate with the nitrogen from potassium nitrate

If your using coir with compost and teas you need to watch out for K-tox as coir releases K as it decomposes. Addition of bacteria from the compost and tea helps speed the process up.

A couple of questions if your going the strip route. What means are you going to use to waterproof the strips between each shelve? Samsung has a calculator for there led's. https://www.samsung.com/led/support/tools/engine-calculator/

I'd do as myke said there, definitely not enough moisture around to keep there turgidity.

If you had 90% humidity the top of your soil wouldn't look dry. Are your lighting for them to intense? Are you using a dome to help retain moisture around them? It's either that or you got and air embolism when you took the cuttings.