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Here is a better look at it recently (a few days ago) - the plants in front have a good amount of leaf burn...the ones in the back are yellow from senescence, not from TM-7 :mrgreen: the larger plants seem to be less affected...here is a BOxNL5/haze in a 10gal smartpot mostly on the lower...

here's a picture of a cheesequake plant from a few weeks ago..the burn has only gotten worse lol. buds are still getting quite chunky though... most plants only have a bit of burn..this one seems to be hit the worst. BOxNL5/haze fan leaves on the left showing some burn..but the tops of those...

keep in mind that the $10 item is also 5lbs...most shipping is done by weight. but yeah...pretty nuts. wait till you see the shipping for their 50lb sacks hehe

hehe you should see some of these plants. i'll post pics later. leaf burn like crazy. i'm glad they survived tho... BioAg's products are the real deal...danger if overapplied

www.neemresource.com the shipping is worth it. also, i'd watch out with wiggle worm castings...in my experience the bags are about 50% sand...and the castings are from worms that ate cardboard and newspaper - not very nutrient dense. i'd highly recommend you look into a quality source...

and everyone remember that BioAg's application rate for TM-7 is 1 gram per gallon, a.k.a. 1/4 tsp per gallon. DO NOT USE 1TSP per gallon lol....don't follow the directions on the package, follow the directions on the website. you've been warned...

as far as the whole ROLS cost thing goes..... So far this month I have spent $12 on diastatic malt powder......thats it. the last few months the only things I have purchased are aloe powder ($20), Agsil 16H powder ($30), and a gallon of Ful-Power ($35) less than $100 this cycle..... as far...

LOL they make a mortar and thistle now eh?? sounds painful... I'd debate that...dolomite has it's place for long term agricultural applications, but it is not the same as oyster shell powder. the differences are important... here is a run down of a few common soil additives (from cootz)...

now thats what a finished plant should look like!!! nice colors....damn...

here she is 2 weeks later...~5 weeks getting chunky... view from a distance...two BOxNL5/haze ladies sharing a 45gal no-till...nasturtium and clover cover crop struggling to make it...burned tips from an over application of BioAg's TM-7 (the directions on the label are too strong!!! 1/4tsp...

soak in h2o w/ a bit of ful power and a splash of young coconut water...after ~16-20 hrs i add some aloe, let it sit for about 15 minutes (no more than 30 minutes!!! aloe will start to ferment - no bueno for your baby seed!) and then place into a rapidrooter (that has been soaking in the same...

my homemade EWC has pumice in it (I put pumice in the bins for aeration)..i tend to screen my castings through a large enough piece of mesh that some pumice makes it through (and some baby worms + cocoons). when applied to the surface of a pot, the EWC creates a perfect layer w/ good...

^^this. best advice you could get. do it...now!!! lol

the part I bolded shows how your understanding of the soil food web is still a bit shakey. Mycorrhizae do not make a white film on the top of the surface...they are hardly (if at all) visible to the naked eye, and they are attached to living roots...so unless you have living roots above the...

amen :bigjoint:

read the very first post in this thread by invo. thanks to MM is one of the first things that is said. if you don't respect him, this thread is not for you. i'll leave it at that i highly recommend you ask coot to tell you about elaine ingham. LOL. he might help shed some light onto the subject...

sounds like you got your system down :clap: the integration of worms and bokashi definitely helps move things along quickly...i like to throw soil amendments (neem, crab, kelp, oyster shell, aloe, rock dusts and clays, horsetail, etc.) into my bokashi bins (or just straight into the worm bins)...

hyroot...i've said what I need to say...I know that you don't use it anymore but I was just trying to clarify for others who might be reading this thread. I don't want someone coming on here, reading that alaska forest is good compost, and then going out to buy that for their soil's humic...

i've used old supersoil for outdoor veggie gardens. honestly i'd be scared to put something like that in a no-till. you'd be much better off starting from scratch IMO. bout time to build another raised bed outdoors for the summer anyway, eh? i could always use another raised bed....

Hopefully this old cootz posts helps get across what I am trying to say: "A couple of years ago Microbeman posted the results from comparing Premier Peat (from Premier Horticulture - the Pro-Mix company) against Alaska Magic (aka Alaska Humus, GO Ancient Forest, Denali Gold, Alaska Bull-Sh*t)...