1 of my drivers is hot to touch.

diggs99

Well-Known Member
Probably smart to put a piece of tape on the bad one to make sure you don't get them mixed up during the swap. Thats what I would do anyways because I know my stoned self.
you been dealing with me long enough to know what im like baked too, so ya, piece of tape identifying them is probably a good idea lol


Ok gonna do the swap and see what happens. Might just keep them dimmed down for the night and do it in the morning. i been at this room every free moment , today has been a long day lol. ima get baked and watch a movie with the wife.
 

diggs99

Well-Known Member
Cool, thanks for the link


Update on driver: before trying the switch i decided to increase power and see how it responded. Both are consistent with each other by touch, i will increase to full power again when lights come back on, if its still like it was yesterday( hot) ill try switching drivers and see if that helps identifying a problem.
 

TintEastwood

Well-Known Member
Indeed these are functional. Seems required to more precisely set multiple drivers at same output via potentiometer.

On my 1750 maxed out. (voltage exceeds limit for the meter Im using)
20190302_122942.jpg

Also good to confirm the potentiometer(s) is not limiting full throttle.... by disconnecting the pot.
 
Last edited:

diggs99

Well-Known Member
Tint, is that the same rig you linked me too earlier?

i was gonna run to canadian tire tomorrow and try and find something to buy while i wait for the stuff from amazon.
 

TintEastwood

Well-Known Member
Tint, is that the same rig you linked me too earlier?

i was gonna run to canadian tire tomorrow and try and find something to buy while i wait for the stuff from amazon.
The one renfro posted supports higher voltage. And many to choose from....

The 1750 is attached to a set of 5 vero29 cobs. Not currenly being used.
 

diggs99

Well-Known Member
It looks like you don't have to wire it in persay either, just a hall effect coil that you run a wire through? I actually ordered one last nite I think, I was high and on Amazon. I often get packages and I am like, hmm whats this??? lol
nice to know im not alone lol

driver seems to be running normal now, both seem the same. They arent at full power, prob 80% ish.
 

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
You have either a wiring problem , strip problem, or driver problem. And as far as the comment being in parallel is nonsense. That's been proven time and time again. Ontop of the 70+ lights I've built in parallel that are still running nonstop for the last 2+ years. The biggest thought was thermal runaway. But that's been shown not to be an issue. I have yet to see an actual case of true thermal runaway on a DIY light that was built correctly. I have 21+ years of electrical work in residential, commerical, and industrial wiring. With 9 years of led experience at my current job now. I have 2 year degree in electrical technology dealing with low voltage and automation, and 4 years of electrical engineering classes at my state university. As well as growing and building with leds from the first set of slug diode based leds. You definitely need a multimeter. To check voltage and current readings. All those displays have and use power to run and are not exact. It's better to use a meter and get actual readings. At the source. Not saying those things aren't handy bc they are I use them. But for actual readings always use a meter.
 

diggs99

Well-Known Member
Thanks bro.

Gonna go buy a multimeter this morning , I'm not sure I'll be able to find something that would work in my small town.

The driver works like normal when not at full power. Once turned up tho, it gets real hot and it sounds like you can hear the electricity running though it.

This is the light I used thermal blocks to wire. The other I used wagos

Wouldn't surprise me if I fkd something up when using the blocks, that light looks more chaotic than the wagos light lol
 
Top