10 inch pots big enough?

muu232

Well-Known Member
I'm trying to fit a few more plants into my grow area and was wondering if 10 inch round pots (about 2 gallons maybe?) would be big enough for plants 2-3ft tall. Before I was using big ass 14 inch pots (like 6 gallons) and would never have problems with getting rootbound, but these 10 inch pots are much smaller. Any feedback is much appreciated.
 

mexiblunt

Well-Known Member
I'm trying the double potting method to save horizontal space. I'm keepin them small so I'm gonna try to get away with 1 gallon pots. I cut the bottoms off then tape em back on once they need transplant just fill a fresh bucket with medium and place on top. I'm thinkin you actually gain a few inches of depth, whereas if you go up to a 2- 3 gallon there is lotsof wasted dirt on the sides that the roots don't really use like top 3-4 inches or so?


Just a thought, I'm a noob still.:joint:
 

muu232

Well-Known Member
Videoman, how tall and how old were the plants growin in 8" pots? Clones or from seed?
 

Garden Knowm

The Love Doctor
3 gallons is really the smallest you want to use unless you are flowering the plants when they have only 4-6 nodes... many people use 1 gallon containers and i do believe it stunts BUD YIELD..

cheers
 

muu232

Well-Known Member
They've got 6 nodes now, 2 weeks into veg, and have 2 more week of veg left. So I guess I will be getting those 12" pots.
 

mogie

Well-Known Member
Listen to Garden. If you are concerned about floor space look into square pots. If the pot is too small your plant will get rootbound.

Root-bound is where the roots of your plant outgrow the container they are contained in.

The following symptoms may be observed if you allow your plants to become root-bound:
    1. Stunted Growth.
    2. Stretching.
    3. Smaller and slower bud production.
    4. Needs watering too often.
    5. Easy to burn with low % nutrient solution mixtures.
    6. Wilting.
    Here are two ways to remove your plant:
    Before you start, always run a transplanting trowel or a long, flexible knife (dedicated for gardening only) between the old pot and your plant's root-ball.

    For a root-bound plant with a strong, woody stem: hold the stem firmly and lift up so the pot is off the ground. Tap down around the pot rim with a rubber hammer or piece of wood until the pot lets go.

    Another way is to turn the plant and pot upside down, holding the plant so it won't crash on the ground when it comes free of the pot. Make sure there's enough clearance to the ground, or you'll smash your plant. (One way to do this: cut a cardboard disk the size of the pot opening, cut a slit to accommodate the plant stem and slip the disk over the top of the pot before turning the pot upside down). Have your friend or family member pull upward on the pot. If you're working alone, tap the rim down on the edge of a table or bench. You may have to do this all around the rim before the roots let go of the pot. (The plant may come free from the pot all at once, so hold on!)

    Once you've freed the plant from its old pot, inspect its roots, if the roots run in a tight circle around the outside of the root ball, you got there just in time. Dig your fingers into the outside 1/2" of these circular roots, loosen the ends up and pull them gently outward. If the roots are very tight, cut two or three 1/2" incisions from top to bottom on the outside of the root-ball. (Space the cuts around the root-ball.) This process may seem cruel, but it gives the roots an opportunity to stop their circular growth habit and begin to grow outward.

    If the roots are extremely tight, slice a thin layer off the outside of the entire root-ball. Set the root-ball into its new pot, hold the foliage out of the way and add soil. Do not forcefully pack this new soil as you want the soil to be settled (with no air pockets) but loose enough to allow root penetration. One way to achieve this is to water the new soil in layers as you add it and this is also a great time to add SUPERTHRIVE.

    Do not cover the top of the root-ball with a thick layer of new soil; IMO the surface of the old root-ball should also be the surface in the new pot. Once your plant is settled into its new pot, clean the foliage as dust keeps light from reaching the leaves and makes the plant more susceptible to mites and other pests. Make sure all H.I.D lights are switched off and give your indoor plant a shower in lukewarm water or dust the leaves with a soft, damp cloth.

    Outdoor plants can be sprayed with a garden hose or spray bottle. If the potting soil you used doesn't contain fertilizer and you didn't add a root stimulator/fertilizer solution, give the plant a light feeding of diluted fertilizer. It is important that your newly re-potted plant receives the right level of light, newly re-potted plants will suffer if placed directly under your H.I.D lights or in direct sunlight. It may take a up to 2 weeks for your plant to become accustomed to its new accommodations so until you begin to see signs of new growth use reduced levels of light.
 

AllmanBro

Active Member
my own personal experience....

I took 10 clones from 1 momma.....
5 where in 1 gallon pots about 10" across
5 where in 2 gallon pots about 12" across

all plants started in these containers.....
all plants grew for 8 weeks in the veg. state.....
in DID NOT trim any of the plants, I figured this time for this experiment I wouldn't trim them at all just wanted to be able to compare the 2 growing conditions, which were identical other than the containers.....

Plants in 10" 1 gallon containers were 3 feet tall after 8 weeks of vegging
Plants in 12" 2 gallon containers were almost 4 feet tall with 2/3's more nodes per plants

After 10 weeks of flowering.........

Plants in 10" 1 gallon containers were 4.5 feet tall
Plants in 12" 2 gallon containers were 6 FEET TALL!!!!!

Yield from EACH PLANT AFTER PROPER DRYING:

10" pots: average 5.5 oz EACH PLANT
12" pots: average 9 oz. EACH PLANT


I shit you all not fellas, I WILL NEVER GROW in anything other than 2 gallon containers that are no larger than the canopy of the plant, meaning if the plant has a diameter of 12 inches across the roots can grow in a container that is 12 inches across. When I have grown in 5 gallon buckets, I have had NO SUBSTANTIAL improvement in yield over a 2 gallon container. 2 gallons 5 gallons, its been my experience that the strain i have been growing show no substantial improvement.

I am in no way an expert, but these are only my personal observations because like many others i was bored and wanted to know the answer, so I figured "what the hell, why not do a little experiment"

:roll:
 

mogie

Well-Known Member
When growing outside the only thing that I use is 5 gallon containers. This is the minimum. But then we are talking about plants the size of trees too. That is a different ball game.
 
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