NorCalTransplant
Well-Known Member
I don't think the garage is the problem, you are using a bunch of lights that don't work well together. And like Duder said, you should always run your lights at night whenever possible.
10000 BTU portable A/C not helping, would a 12000 BTU split unit suffice?
- Thread starter formfactor
- Start date
formfactor
Member
Yep I'm in veg now so I do try to run them mostly at night. My flower cycle is always at night. Currently I'm on from 8 PM to 2Pm. Darkness from 2PM - 8PM...
Little Tommy
Well-Known Member
Most of these battles can be won in the planning phases. Good luck. Measure twice, cut once.
MedicineMaker
Member
MedicineMaker said that ^_^Wow guys, thank you for your answers. You guys definitely know your shit! God I love this forum.
Someone suggested frozen gallons of water (Joe). I'm already doing this, but not in the room, I have to keep frozen gallons in my res so it doesn't go stagnant in this heat, unfortunately the 3 gallons I use to rotate that pretty much fill my freezer. I dig your idea though..
formfactor
Member
Heh, sorry MedicineMaker, I was a bit medicated . Good idea thouh... I supposed you could almost put em between the plants.
. Good idea thouh... I supposed you could almost put em between the plants.formfactor
Member
I went with one very similar to this. Same brand, but with a higher SEER rating... Doubt that's going to make much difference. Also looked into my electricity situation, and apparently the house is wired for 50 amps more than (usual) with plenty of open breaker slots.
This unit is going to require a 220v outlet, but the fact that the breaker box is on the outside of the room tells me I should be able to just run a power feed throgh a whole. I'm assuming it only 3 wires.
I really think this things going to do the trick. I think your right, it's going to get the heat out of the entire garage, rather than fill my only air inlet option with all the hot air from the room. I'm pretty excited
....Thanks again for all the great suggestions fellas. Nugs and hugs!
VICTORYGARDENSHYDRO
New Member
higher seer,lower electric bill, good jobI went with one very similar to this. Same brand, but with a higher SEER rating... Doubt that's going to make much difference. Also looked into my electricity situation, and apparently the house is wired for 50 amps more than (usual) with plenty of open breaker slots.
This unit is going to require a 220v outlet, but the fact that the breaker box is on the outside of the room tells me I should be able to just run a power feed throgh a whole. I'm assuming it only 3 wires.
I really think this things going to do the trick. I think your right, it's going to get the heat out of the entire garage, rather than fill my only air inlet option with all the hot air from the room. I'm pretty excited
Thanks again for all the great suggestions fellas. Nugs and hugs!
Weliveinapolicestate
Well-Known Member
DO NOT JUST FEED OFF THE DRYERS 60 Amp Breaker. A full size dryer has a 5,000 Watt element plus the motor wattage, throw an A/C 18,000 btu Ductless Split (that will run a lot) and you'll blow the breaker every time you dry your clothes while trying to keep the ladies cool. Just install a new circuit for the love of Christ, and a ductless split is the way to go but you'll still need a drain for the evap. coil.
formfactor
Member
Yep, I plan on installing a new circuit. I don't have access to a pro unfortunately and don't trust anyone anyways..., and m a total n00b with the electric part of this, but it's something I need to learn, as I'm sure it's going to come up again some day.
So I think I hav 5 open slots on the box. Do they make a single 220v breaker I can stick in a slot or do I have to bridge t2o 110s?
I have some reading to do, but the skimming I have done so far says it's easy...
So I think I hav 5 open slots on the box. Do they make a single 220v breaker I can stick in a slot or do I have to bridge t2o 110s?
I have some reading to do, but the skimming I have done so far says it's easy...
formfactor
Member
I didn't reAlize it required a drain, does that go on the inside part of the unit? I can probably just drip that into my res...
MedicineMaker
Member
I was thinking if you have plants in your garage, are they also in an enclosed box of some sort? If they aren't, the frozen bottle thing would only really work in a small room or growbox to cool the small rooms air rather than a whole garage.Heh, sorry MedicineMaker, I was a bit medicated
formfactor
Member
Yeah it's a room within the garage... Maybe 20x20. Only prtly full of plants. An onoing project I throw money at when I have it... Slowly but surely it's coming along though...
Anyways, if the air was still I bet u could put 1 gal between 4 plants and cool the air around those,..
Anyways, if the air was still I bet u could put 1 gal between 4 plants and cool the air around those,..
Weliveinapolicestate
Well-Known Member
You only need two open slots side by side || Double pole Single Throw breaker. And yes the drain would be needed for the inside part, the moisture in the air passed over the evaporator freezes to the coil and when it cycles (off) the water collects in a drip pan and run out the drain hole. The outside part is a condenser and compressor unit and does not require a drain but you may want to keep it out of sight so people do get any ideas about it. Wiring up a circuit is not hard just throw the main disconnect coming in and hook up the wires. Refer to a DiY site if needed but it'll hook up much like the stove or dryer circuit.
formfactor
Member
Right on policestate, yea it looks pretty easy, and I am kind of worried about people knowing what's up if they see it. But I think I'm going to put 1 on the other side of the house too to cool that as well.
For the drain, I might actually just run a line into my res... It's should be RO type water (even though I only use tap water) I'm think it might be a nice automatic way to keep my res topped off.
As far as the 220v circuit, there are a lot of grat bids on YouTube on how to install that. It looks so much easier than I anticipated. But I think maybe I could knock this out over a weekend.
For the drain, I might actually just run a line into my res... It's should be RO type water (even though I only use tap water) I'm think it might be a nice automatic way to keep my res topped off.
As far as the 220v circuit, there are a lot of grat bids on YouTube on how to install that. It looks so much easier than I anticipated. But I think maybe I could knock this out over a weekend.
Little Tommy
Well-Known Member
4 hours tops, and that is if you make it all pretty.
Agree 100%...
formfactor
Member
You have no idea how happy I am to hear that, it's going to be 97 degrees the day I do this...
pazuzu420
Well-Known Member
Well if it still doens't work out for you concider just insulating the part that is the grow room and exhaust the other part like it is the roof. Treating them like seperate areas, then look at upgrading to a thermostat controlled fan in the actual roof space to get rid of that hot air that is being intensified by the sun. It truely does sound like most of your problems are stemming from nature and not your grow space.
Build and remodeled houses for 10+ years it is AMAZING what insulation can do
Build and remodeled houses for 10+ years it is AMAZING what insulation can do
add a duct fan and a speed controller in the middle of your 20 foot hose.your portables fan is working to hard to push all that hot air.
also make sure you take into account that if you have a 6 inch hose,you need 6 inches for an inlet.(or if you have a 12 inch vent fan,18 inches total).
they also make splits pre charged,to install your self.115v for smaller one tons.1,800 dollars though.
also make sure you take into account that if you have a 6 inch hose,you need 6 inches for an inlet.(or if you have a 12 inch vent fan,18 inches total).
they also make splits pre charged,to install your self.115v for smaller one tons.1,800 dollars though.