1000w 1st Grow- Grape Ape in Cap Ebb & Grow

jcannons

Active Member
Well I wish I would have found this site prior to starting this grow. I definitely would have healthier plants at this point in the grow. I thought that I had read a lot but like everything else in life, you learn from your mistakes and the problems that you have send you seeking information and knowledge.

I started by building my grow room and getting everything onsite ready for the clones I was going to buy from my collective. I built a 4 x 6 x 9 ft closet, painted the walls flat white, installed my 4" inline fan on the wall and vented it through the roof. Installed my switchable 1000w ballast and light then hung mylar on the walls and the floor. I installed a 4" dryer vent on the opposite side of the room from the exhaust fan as low as possible for the air inlet. The air inlet would allow air in from the adjacent room that is climate controlled to 68 degrees. I sealed the room so that no other air could enter. I removed the base from an oscillating fan that I had and hung it from the ceiling with some lag bolts. I tied the light, the exhaust fan and the oscillating fan into a timer.

I then set up the Cap Ebb & Grow reservior and controller bucket in an adjacent room and ran the fill tubes through the wall and set up 6 buckets, which I then filled with the Hydroton that I had washed. I filled and ran the system through a couple of cycles and decided everything was ready to roll.

I picked up 6 Grape Ape clones at the collective I belong to and brought them to the grow site. The clones were in 2" rockwool cubes which were in 2" plastic containers. After removing the cubes from the plastic containers to transplant them to the hydroton, I couldn't see any roots so I peeled a little of bottom layers of rockwool away and exposed roots that were about 3" long but all coiled together in a circle. All the clones had about the same amount of roots. I decided to leave the upper part of the rw to act as a stablilizer for the plant and then put the clones in the hydroton with the roots directly in contact and at about 1/2 below the flood level of the pots and then covered it all up with hydroton.

I then put the clones into the grow room under the 1000w Metal Halide lamp, which I put at 30" above the plants. I set the lights at 18/6 and closed the door. I had already mixed the newts to the "grow" strength recommended in the BC Grow kit that came with the Cap system. The ppm were about 1100 and the ph was about 6.0. I set the flood timer to flood the plants about every 3 hours during the light on cycle.

Ok I know all of you experienced growers are probably screaming at your computer screens about now. Like I said at the start, I wish that I had found this site prior to the transplant..... I had bought the Bible but it obviously wasn't enough.... The first day, my temps went to 89 degrees in the grow room, 3 of the 6 plants practically layed over and died.

I drilled holes in the grow room door to allow more air in but it wasn't enought to keep the temps down so I ended up leaving the door open and adding a box fan blowing into the room, this worked and brought the max temp down to about 80 degrees. I also decided to raise the light up to about 4 feet above the plants and started combing the internet for more information. That night the temps in the room dropped to 57 degrees, obviously not good but that is the temp in the unconditioned space.

I spent the next two weeks figuring out the feeding schedule and dealing with yellow burned leaves due to the nutrients that were too high. Here are pictures that I took after 2 weeks. I couldn't save one of the clones so I pulled it.

 

jcannons

Active Member
I have now sealed off the room where the reservior is located from the unconditioned space and as long as I leave the door to the grow room open I get a max temp of about 82 degrees and a low temp of about 67 degrees. I have discovered root rot on the runt up in the rockwool, only 1/2" below the top of the rw. I removed all of the rw that I can from all the plants. It has now been 3 weeks since I put them in the grow room. Here are the latest pictures....

 

jcannons

Active Member
I just received a new inline fan today which I plan on using in conjunction with a thermostat to pull air from the unconditioned space, which is typically 57 degrees into the grow room when the temp exceeds 80 degrees. My hope is that I will be able to close the door to the grow room and the thermostat will turn the new fan on when needed and keep the temperature at acceptable levels.
 

jcannons

Active Member
Well things are turning around and all the new growth is looking healthy. I am adding a new fresh cold air intake fan today on a thermostat so that I can close the door to the grow room. I finally got a humidity monitor and looks like I'm currently around 22% so that's my next project. I am going to wait to see what happens when I actually close the door and have a more sealed room. I'm thinking it's not really going to change much but should know by tomorrow.
The runt is the plant that I found root rot, it is growing again and the new leaves look great....
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jcannons

Active Member
I got the new cold air intake fan installed today, you can see the 4" duct hanging down on the left, I also added a homemade C02 generator and a humidifier. I closed the door and so far the temp seems to be running about 83 degrees. Still higher than I would like but I will roll with it and see how the plants respond.
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jcannons

Active Member
I made a couple of upgrades today. The first was to my CO2 generator, I replaced the straws with 1/4" tubing so I could direct the gas right to the plants and I redid my mix... 3L water, 2 cups sugar, 1 can tomato paste, 1 tablespoon yeast.
Then as you can see in the pics I added tomato cages to the buckets.
Plants have really taken off the last few days. I was gone for 2 days and everything seemed to work great while I was gone. The room did get up to 86 degrees at some point but was at 82 today when I got back. The low temp was 67 degrees.

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jcannons

Active Member
Thanks man, it is definitely a steep learning curve, thank god for the internet! (or Al Gore...lol) I always like to learn new things and I can tell that this is going to be one of those things where you never really quit learning which will keep me interested :)
I think I'm going to veg for another week or so since I only have 5 plants in a 25 square foot space and a 9 foot ceiling. Hoping that the smaller plants will start to catch up. I think the runt is a lost cause but I'm going to keep it just to see how it goes.... My goal is to get over a pound out of this first grow.... wish me luck... I think I'm gonna need it :)

J
 

jcannons

Active Member
Ok these pics are from yesterday. I had a pretty big spike in PH from 5.5 to 6.1 in 12 hrs when things had been only going up about .2 per day. I then noticed that I had leaf tips that were pointing straight down and a few that turned brown at the very tip. I did add CalMag the day before because the plants were looking a little uptight/ not relaxed. Not sure if that was the cause but I don't think so from everything I can find.
So today I decided to dump the nutrient barrel, clean it out and start fresh. Something that I had not done yet as things had seemed to level out and be going great.
I'm planning on just giving them PH balanced water on this next regular feeding time and then adding nutrients for their last feeding cycle of the day. My water was PH 7.8 and PPM 70 coming out of the tap. I added PH Down and now we are sitting at 5.8 and 90 PPM. The tap was 38 degrees so as soon as I get it heated up to 60 I'll resume feeding.......
Today is Day 30 and I'm thinking that I'm going to flip them to 12/12 on the 1st of April.
Right now I'm running 20/4 light schedule, is it necessary to back it down to 18/6 for a few days before the flip or should I just stick with it and go straight to 12/12?
Thanks,
J
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hempdaddy

Member
u can go straight to 12/12 should you wish to flower. what demension are the inner and outter pots? what's the depth of the inner pot, can u fit anything larger than a 2x2x2 rockwool cube in it?

first, pH drifting up is a good thing when it's within range. it indictates there's less chemical nutrient salts in the solution (most likely been taken up by the plants). 2nd, your co2 setup looks like lots of effort but low on results. what are those drip lines and where do they lead to? underneath each plant? into the bucket? those things will give you tiny bit of co2 for about 10 days, after that the co2 release virtually indetectable. last but not least, from the looks of it, ur plants got some nute defiencies. do you use tap water? because that looks like magnesium deficiency to me. if you are indeed using tap water, stop giving it calmag, instead head out to local 99 cent store and look for epsom salt (not the smokable bath salt, but the kind that doesn't make your skin all pruned when u soak all day). you don't need to use much, dissolve in warm water about 0.5 tsp of epsom salt for every gallon of solution in your reservior, then just dump it in, apply every week until your guys can handle all of that calcium in your tap water. and cut off large browned tips on the bottom leaves, in fact trim off all of the unhealthy, yellowing leaves on the bottom.

calmag plus is really for ro water users, if u wanna use calmag+ with tap water, use it at about 1/3 strength and top off once a week or so.
 

jcannons

Active Member
Thanks for the input, I am definitely rethinking my decision to use the homemade CO2 generator. It seems to put out a lot of CO2 but I don't like the fact that I can't measure it or regulate it.
 

hempdaddy

Member
Thanks for the input, I am definitely rethinking my decision to use the homemade CO2 generator. It seems to put out a lot of CO2 but I don't like the fact that I can't measure it or regulate it.
sure thing, answer my questions please
thx
you still got a long way to go, best of luck to you
 

jcannons

Active Member
u can go straight to 12/12 should you wish to flower. what demension are the inner and outter pots? what's the depth of the inner pot, can u fit anything larger than a 2x2x2 rockwool cube in it?

Both the inner and outer buckets are 9" x 9" and are 2 gallons. My brief experience with the rockwool cubes shows me that you want to keep the cube slightly above the flood level of the bucket because they retain too much water for this system. I actually got root rot in the rockwool cube on one plant.

J
 

hempdaddy

Member
ok let me try to put things into perspective here. if the buckets are 9" in diameter and height, your tallest plant is about 10 inches? i dunoo if you can raise the inner buckets and still have it flood your hydroton n rw, but i recommend you either do that or trim off the bottom branches, especially the unhealthy ones. afterwords feed it anything with kelp and vitamin in it, like liquid karma/b52, then continuing feeding. resolution for your root rot problem: hygrozym secret agent; apply at 5ml/g top off at 2ml/g.
ps. i have no idea about the presence of a humidifier. most of us would rather opt for a dehumidifier. if u badly wish to add in some moisture try foliar feeding.
 

jcannons

Active Member
Humidity in the room is like 22% and the humidifier is bringing it up to about 30%. I already removed the rockwool from the plant that had the root rot problem and it seems to be doing a lot better. The plants have really responded well to the new nutrients and life is currently good! The tallest plant is 12" from the hydroton today or about 11" from the top of the bucket so that was a pretty good estimate. I'm going to give them a 2nd round of Neem oil tomorrow as I noticed a few live spider mites today. Does anyone know how many days it is from the time the spider mites hatch to when they starting laying eggs?

Thanks,

J
 

xebeche

Well-Known Member
"Chemical control of spider mites generally involves pesticides that are specifically developed for spider mite control (miticides or acaricides). Few insecticides are effective for spider mites and many even aggravate problems. Furthermore, strains of spider mites resistant to pesticides frequently develop, making control difficult. Because most miticides do not affect eggs, a repeat application at an approximately 10- to 14-day interval is usually needed for control. Since an egg can develop into a mature spider mite able to lay eggs of its own in as little as 9 days, more frequent application may be required in hot, dry conditions."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spider_mite
 

suspendedinair

Active Member
Yeah Grape Ape has been a pain in my ass my other plants are doing great, but the Ape will look great and in a matter of a couple of hours they look horrible. Just flushed it today hope it helped out. Seem to be having the same problems you are having. Can't wait to harvest. Won't grow this strain again.:wall:......LOL.....Good luck
 
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