I was doing work in my room when I heard the A/C kick on which I'm sure draws a ton of current. Then one of my 1000's kicked off and then lit back up. I did some research and after thinking about it, I think it sounds like the ballast may need a new capacitor. Any thoughts?
1000w light restarts when A/C kicks on
- Thread starter 2404life
- Start date
amnooneoo
Active Member
Did it do this B4? Check the AC, make sure you have good connections - check and clean the coils. They use more and more as they get dirty. The capacitor would be the first thing i'd swap out.
Maybe check the voltage @ the lights plug during this timer situation, if you can. If would be a major voltage drop that makes the light restart like that, coupled with a bad capacitor.
Maybe check the voltage @ the lights plug during this timer situation, if you can. If would be a major voltage drop that makes the light restart like that, coupled with a bad capacitor.
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
how about moving the light to a different circuit as the a/c.
if you dont, before to long, it will be the breaker thats kicking instead of the light.
what you are experiencing, is called voltage drop.
as murfy stated, it is being caused by the large inrush current your a/c draws during its startup period.
all those restrikes are going to wear your lamp out too.......
dont listen to people saying its the capacitor, because its not.
a 20 amp circuit is only good for 1920 amps before you run into problems.
a 15 amp circuit is only good for 1440 watts....
i promise you your a/c pulls a good 1100w, your lamp and ballast combo pulls about 1080w.
see how your over the limit?
if you dont, before to long, it will be the breaker thats kicking instead of the light.
what you are experiencing, is called voltage drop.
as murfy stated, it is being caused by the large inrush current your a/c draws during its startup period.
all those restrikes are going to wear your lamp out too.......
dont listen to people saying its the capacitor, because its not.
a 20 amp circuit is only good for 1920 amps before you run into problems.
a 15 amp circuit is only good for 1440 watts....
i promise you your a/c pulls a good 1100w, your lamp and ballast combo pulls about 1080w.
see how your over the limit?
First off, thanks for the replies. I have been using this ballast for well over a year now with no problems. The AC is a central air unit. I at one time had this same ballast running along with another 1000 and a 400 and some flourescents with no problems (not all on the same circuit). I have it plugged into a circuit that's all on its own, separate from my other 1000, and have tried swapping bulbs and sockets. It's the ballast for sure as my other 1000 has no problems when the AC kicks on. I will check the voltage at the plug when the AC kicks on and see what it's at. I have plenty of auto experience and understand electricity pretty good, eg. a 15 amp circuit at 120 volts would be 15 x 120 so 1800 watts that circuit could handle (right?). I usually leave some room for error and run substantially less. IAm5toned, why do you think it's not the capacitor in the ballast? I found this on ehow.com on how to test a cap: http://www.ehow.com/how_2072923_test-capacitor.html
Thanks for the help, I'm broke and don't want to shell out a bunch of money for a new ballast!
Thanks for the help, I'm broke and don't want to shell out a bunch of money for a new ballast!
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
15 x 120 x 80% = 1440 w
if your light or a/c is on for 6 hours or longer, you have to rate it at continuous duty (80% of max wattage). any device that runs for 6 hours or longer shall be rated at continuous duty. NEC 210.19(A)(1), 215.2(A)(1), and 230.42(A)
as a troubleshooter, what causes me to think that its voltage drop, is that the light is already on and restrikes when the a/c compressor kicks on.
the capacitor inside the fixture itself may very well be faulty, if it is, it is because of the voltage drop the a/c is creating, it has worn out the cap prematurely.
to test the cap, and actually see the voltage drop, your going to need an analog multimeter, or a high end true rms digital multimeter like a fluke t series....
an update (if anyone cares) Like I said before I have 2 1000's running so I switched the bulbs and now I think the bulb may be at fault. I've used it for maybe 5 months at 12/12 and 2 months on 18/6. Is it shot? Doesn't look blackened at all but seems that my testing shows the bulb is on its way out.