15 1/2 weeks in.

TJart

Member
15 1/2 weeks in. Sour Tangie in Coco Loco. Growers Choice e420 with deep red and uv add-on. GH Trio with the basic extras. One 5 gallon, one 3 gallon felt pots. Mid week of late bloom. Week and a half to flush?? Small leaves curled at top. Everything else is looking good. EC 1300, 5.9 pH.4262.jpg4263.jpg4264.jpg4265.jpg4266.jpg
 
What happened to your leaves? The back one looks like it has a magnesium issue(purple stem). They look pretty far long might be sooner than you think
 
I have nutrients ready. EC 1275, 5.9 pH. Should I water a bit heavier today flush anything? One week ago the run off was slightly less , EC and pH, than going in. My plan shows these girls going into last week of late bloom before ripen then flush. Need some extra eyes here. Plans don't always work out. Looking for the best end game strategies.
 
This is the nutrients chart I've been following. Now in the last week of late bloom. I've been keeping the numbers as spot on as possible. I mix one gallon at a time. Would mixing a 5 gallon batch be easier or better? How long will nutrients hold their potency?
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like I said I lean toward Magnesium deficiency with the red stems. Sounds like you are putting more than enough nutrients in. PH is a bit too high for coco. Maybe back off overall nutrients reducing K specifically and aiming for 5.5-5.6 PH. The phosphorus in PH down should help uptake magnesium easier and calcium will be in range as well.
 
like I said I lean toward Magnesium deficiency with the red stems. Sounds like you are putting more than enough nutrients in. PH is a bit too high for coco. Maybe back off overall nutrients reducing K specifically and aiming for 5.5-5.6 PH. The phosphorus in PH down should help uptake magnesium easier and calcium will be in range as well.
 
I've been looking back on what I've done so far and realized I was mixing the lower dose of CalMag in the nutrients. 1.5 ml vs 2.5 ml. Could that be the difference?
 
Purple and red stems are not necessarily evidence of a deficiency. Many strains have deeply colored stems or turn dark due to environmental impact, ie prolonged cold
 
h202 wont last long. Use pool shock or bleach if your tap has too much calcium in it. Calmg only locked my nutes out it didnt stop until I removed it. I was in ro water at the time which is especially supposedly why people use it then.

I find the ec sweet spot and keep it there. Moving the ec by as much as 70ppm or 140ppm really from start of flower to end flower. Then he drops the ec by 280ppm for ripen? I dropped my ec 140ppm week 8 of 10 and leafs all got deficient. If clones I just give them the same ec from start to finish.

following that chart would give me problems left and right and it did when I first started coco and started on that site. People here taught me the rest then 7 perpetual rounds later I learned somethings myself. I just use maxibloom and bleach.

Thats not the only chart, any chart really. Its not going to always play out that way even if I made a chart. Idk thats just me tho. Instead of a chart Id journal and refer to notes and carefully decide from there if youre having issues. It always boiled down to frequency and plentiful runoff. Sometimes I do nothing at all, work its self out. Ive done that a few times.
 
h202 wont last long. Use pool shock or bleach if your tap has too much calcium in it. Calmg only locked my nutes out it didnt stop until I removed it. I was in ro water at the time which is especially supposedly why people use it then.

I find the ec sweet spot and keep it there. Moving the ec by as much as 70ppm or 140ppm really from start of flower to end flower. Then he drops the ec by 280ppm for ripen? I dropped my ec 140ppm week 8 of 10 and leafs all got deficient. If clones I just give them the same ec from start to finish.

following that chart would give me problems left and right and it did when I first started coco and started on that site. People here taught me the rest then 7 perpetual rounds later I learned somethings myself. I just use maxibloom and bleach.

Thats not the only chart, any chart really. Its not going to always play out that way even if I made a chart. Idk thats just me tho. Instead of a chart Id journal and refer to notes and carefully decide from there if youre having issues. It always boiled down to frequency and plentiful runoff. Sometimes I do nothing at all, work its self out. Ive done that a few times.
Interesting, maxibloom and bleach. What are you growing in? How much bleach. I'm using Coco Loco this grow but going just Coco coir and perlite next time. I hate all the mixing I'm doing now with the GH Trio ( with the extras ). Tried the water only method once. Just bouncing around till I find a method I like and produces what I'm looking for. Growing just for me so I've just got a 4x4 and a 3x3 to start in. No big production.
 
I grow in nutrifield dry brick coco and vigoro pearlite. I rinse/strain the coco then put in a large fabric pot to soak in Athena IPM for 1 hr or more. Then soak in calmag for 8 hrs, drained and buffered again another 8 hrs. I rinse the pearlite in same strainer as for the coco.

I mix together and keep in buckets with gama lids that I used in the process as a way to shield from bugs. I like to process in a small bathroom I scan for bugs. Peat from the coco doesnt clog drains, hair does. If no one piles up hair in the sink drain Ive been doing my coco in it fine for years now.

I would just use 2.5ml of bleach per 5 gal solution. Its been ok but today I learned too much can burn them but it takes a lot, a neglectful amount to do. Its not very good for the coco either so Im seeing how it does with out it.

Its really a fix for people to keep large amounts of solution for like a week or more. It tends to work but didnt work for me anymore, my system just bred the bacteria out of control after 3 days.

My way of doing things are a little crazy but people could get away with much less feed. If to do what I do but with 4-6x a day rather than 12x a 5 gal bucket can last a couple days or more. I do half gallon worth of coco per plant.

Ive tried 3 gallons and theres no difference, it just took tons of water but interestingly needs less nutes. I suspect due to such a large thirsty root system it takes up more so it needs less concentration. As it ends up eating the same amount of nutes is my theory anyway.

You asked how long the nutes last, as far as I know, they tell you a week to make money. People have ran their reservoirs for 2 weeks or more. Its more about the water going bad with bacteria.

Yea the flora trio or anything similar is a pain. Paying mostly for water and working harder to mix it up. Maybe that would be good if you wanted precision as with maxibloom you still want to make sure it dissolves. Cold water is a pain as its 3x slower to do.

I use a ec meter to dial in every time. Roots function like a RO system in the sense it uses sugars in roots slightly less concentrated in order to pull up water/nutes. When the ec changes the plant has to accomidate for that and that takes energy that can be spent elsewhere.

Also, I find it doesnt take much to starve or overfeed your plant. So a ec meter is good for that. Like I said, 140ppm was enough to starve my plant when I tried lowering to solve a minor issue. Doing nothing about an issue sounds crazy but it ends up being something unrelated to the ec dose.

Like LED too bright, too much bleach neglectfully poured into reservoir, over transpiration from increased air circulation.. List goes on. Could be dryback and salt build up especially from not allowing enough runoff per feed. Checking ec in runoff is a valuable tool, Ive solved issues with that more than anything else but again lots of time its grower error.

Some people would be fine with a couple clip on 6” fans for circulation but I use box fans which accellerate dryback. Otherwise it doesnt have to be as extreme as my ways. Usually tho people need a drain to waste setup with drippers and reservoirs to lighten the work load; but also because its damn near impossible once feeding 3x a day or more.

Its not hard to dial in, it was always because I didnt let it run off long enough that I got issues. Sometimes salt builds up and you have to add an extra feed per day despite lack of dry back. Like going from 4x to 6x a day with longer runoff to fix that. Im in a similar situation this run that Im feeding an extra time per day where I run it twice.. Just to keep salt build up at bay.

Its not drying out that much so I thought I could drop from 12x a day to 6x a day but nope. Salt build up indicates its drying back. I thought maybe I can shorted runoff and do 12x but nope, wont runoff long enough like at all. So that would lead to salt levels going out of control.

So yea just got to see what works for you, most people do the same thing basically. Its why I like the method over organics, theres no sides to choose and rabbit holes to go down. Some people feed like .8ec which is crazy and I think my light situation is similar, maybe my plants just like 600-800ppfd.

The lowest I fed was 1.2 ec but like I said it can be different in a 3 gallons worth of coco which I did 1.1ec. Some people feed 2x a day in flower by hand and dont measure ec and are fine for many years. I forget methods sometimes choose you in your enviroment which includes microbiome, water quality. That I could be making it look easy therefor.

I like to think dtw coco is easy, much easier than DWC or flood and drain or promix. The easiest hydromethod. If it works out for you. It does involve labor which is why one used to say “We haul water!”
 
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