mellokitty
Moderatrix of Journals
suicide factor?
i had a few hundred die after only a couple days.
"the light.... it's so beautiful.... i can't help myself....." *BZZT*
suicide factor?
i had a few hundred die after only a couple days.
I got a question about preditor mite do they eat any other bugs like thrips?
Kitty is correct. There is a biological for just about everything. The problem with bios, I'm learning, is you have to trust them. My mites will get a little worse before they get better. I cannot spray. All I can do is HOPE that they will perform as advertised. If they do not, I'll lose this entire crop. By the time I realize that they are not working, it will be really bad. For this reason, we're getting 10,000 more on Monday. We're commited to these fellas.
I'm positive your crop will be fine man.
I mean, those predator mites have got to eat... That's every animals first priority.
No doubt if you have enough they will seek out all the spider mites and eggs and eat eat eat.
According to these guys some of em eat the eggs, but I dunno a damn thing about pred mites so take it with a grain of salt haha. Never heard of em b4 after seeing em on heredecided to read a little bit. http://www.hydro-gardens.com/spidermite.htm
Its three different types of predator miteswhat is a tripple threat? is that three different types in one or a specail?
Here's what I've learned about predatory mites over the last week. All of this info was given to me by the boys at Rincon Vitova Insectaries:
The mites will not eat each other. For this reason, they must be moved quickly to the grow room, lest they starve.
The "triple threat" offered by Tip Top Bio is three strains of mites. Persimillis is the most voracious predator and can consume 20 eggs, or 5 adult mites/day. It needs 60% humidity to flourish. The Californicus only eats 5 eggs/day, but can tolerate lower humidity levels and will live much longer without a food source. I'm not sure on the 3rd. What Tip Top Bio doesn't tell you is that Californicus will eat Persimillis eggs! Not only do you lose any breeding benefit, but the Californicus eats less bad mite eggs because it has Persimillis eggs to feed on. This may be the reason that many people do not like using bio controls. Tip Top Bio advertises heavily and most people buy the Triple Threat.
The bottom line is, unless you're willing to increase your humidity to AT LEAST 60%, go with the Califonicus. It may not eat as much, but it will definately survive and breed heavily.
Predators can outbreed 2 spotted mites 2/1. The females lay 3 eggs/day and live for about 20 days. We were told of a test done where a single pregnant female was placed in a 1/4 acre greenhouse infested with mites. It took several months, but the predators eventually out-populated and wiped out the mites. The standard application rate is 1-2 predators/sq ft of grow space. Infested grows require higher rates. We released 40 mites/sq ft.
We chose the Californicus to start because it will live and breed for sure in our 40% RH bloom room. I didn't want to raise the RH to 60% and trade mites for Powdery Mildew. Many of my plants are in the later stages of bloom and I've already had to cut off a couple buds with PM. These were most likely buds that got a splash of water while Helper D watered. Everytime I have raised RH above 40%, I've regretted it. If these bad boys can eat 5 eggs/day...that's 25,000 eggs per day!
On Monday we'll add 5000 more Californicus.
We will contine to add predator mites every week until I see no signs of any spider mites. We will probably add 1000 Californicus every month as a preventative. They only cost $25 for 1000. Once we go biological, we cannot use sprays. So, we'll also add ladybugs and a thrip predator as a prevention measure. If this regime works, I'll be thrilled. It's way easier than spraying and sooooo easy on the plants. We're lucky to have Rinco Vitova, a huge insect lab with lab geeks available to answer questions, a couple miles away. They have a huge catelog with every possible bio control you can think of.