220 volt extension cord question?

wheels619

wheels619

Well-Known Member

  • so i need to run a bit of an extension cord that really isnt going to be moved once ran. also its going to be out of the way of foot traffic hung in the rafters. i guess my question is will a 50 ft run of type NM-B 10/2 be enough to supply 30 amps and 4000 watts to my new location from a 30 amp dryer outlet with the correct ends since the ground in the cable is not insulated but the others are? or should i go with some 10/3 sjo instead? problem lies in it being twice the cost. can i make it work or should i spend the cash for the good stuff so i dont burn my casa down? lol​





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SFguy

SFguy

Well-Known Member
ikes wheels doin big things.. lol lemme upgrade lemme upgrade.. i dunno but i have seen those RV cables over at osh and harbor freight. some even have 220 to 110 adapters i though i saw
 
Bakatare666

Bakatare666

Well-Known Member
wheels619 said:

  • so i need to run a bit of an extension cord that really isnt going to be moved once ran. also its going to be out of the way of foot traffic hung in the rafters. i guess my question is will a 50 ft run of type NM-B 10/2 be enough to supply 30 amps and 4000 watts to my new location from a 30 amp dryer outlet with the correct ends since the ground in the cable is not insulated but the others are? or should i go with some 10/3 sjo instead? problem lies in it being twice the cost. can i make it work or should i spend the cash for the good stuff so i dont burn my casa down? lol​



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All I can say is......... The ground is there for a reason.
 
Figong

Figong

Well-Known Member
The NM-B 10/2 is rated for 30A exactly @ 30C.. that's per NEC -as I'm sure you've checked out... but am curious about the 30A and 4k watts...does it specifically state 30A, or are you shooting a bit high for safety reasons? The reason I ask.. I = W/V ... 4000/220 = 18.18A

Edit: To answer your question, that should be just fine.. as #10 ran single phase w/30 Amp breaker.. should have no problem with 5520 watts, and that 80% of breaker max calculated... 4k is a non-issue in that respect, as I assume this is close to being a dedicated circuit, or one that's already had math done of the other branch(es) that may exist.

Hope this helps,

Fi-
 
wheels619

wheels619

Well-Known Member
Figong said:
The NM-B 10/2 is rated for 30A exactly @ 30C.. that's per NEC -as I'm sure you've checked out... but am curious about the 30A and 4k watts...does it specifically state 30A, or are you shooting a bit high for safety reasons? The reason I ask.. I = W/V ... 4000/220 = 18.18A

Edit: To answer your question, that should be just fine.. as #10 ran single phase w/30 Amp breaker.. should have no problem with 5520 watts, and that 80% of breaker max calculated... 4k is a non-issue in that respect, as I assume this is close to being a dedicated circuit, or one that's already had math done of the other branch(es) that may exist.

Hope this helps,

Fi-
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actually it does. thank you. just needed a second on my math and cables chosen. ive got a titan helios 4 light controller. problem is i need it running about 40 ft from where the dryer outlet is. my dryer is gas and ill never use the outlet otherwise. yeah the 30 amp is for safety. gonna try to not push it past 20 amps. also im going to run another dedicated line for my flower when i get the cash. eventually id like to run a dedicated 50 amp to a 50 amp 8 light controller and use the existing 30 amp light controller for veg.
 
wheels619

wheels619

Well-Known Member
SFguy said:
ikes wheels doin big things.. lol lemme upgrade lemme upgrade.. i dunno but i have seen those RV cables over at osh and harbor freight. some even have 220 to 110 adapters i though i saw
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doin big thing my man. doing big things. lol. where you been suckafish? fall into that pink?
 
Figong

Figong

Well-Known Member
wheels619 said:
actually it does. thank you. just needed a second on my math and cables chosen. ive got a titan helios 4 light controller. problem is i need it running about 40 ft from where the dryer outlet is. my dryer is gas and ill never use the outlet otherwise. yeah the 30 amp is for safety. gonna try to not push it past 20 amps. also im going to run another dedicated line for my flower when i get the cash. eventually id like to run a dedicated 50 amp to a 50 amp 8 light controller and use the existing 30 amp light controller for veg.
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Quite welcome, glad I could - if you're having any form of an issue, or can not guarantee 100% of the locations it appears... you can always kill the breaker and put a tone box on it.. and check outlets - is exactly the same thing telephone guys use, cept it's designed for outlets and can save a migraine or branch stress assuming 1 rogue bathroom outlet managed to make it into a circuit it shouldn't otherwise be wired, as an example of what I've found in some sets of wiring. 30A seems like a great idea, given what you've said and when you set up the other one.. would love to see what results - keep us informed!
 
wheels619

wheels619

Well-Known Member
Figong said:
Quite welcome, glad I could - if you're having any form of an issue, or can not guarantee 100% of the locations it appears... you can always kill the breaker and put a tone box on it.. and check outlets - is exactly the same thing telephone guys use, cept it's designed for outlets and can save a migraine or branch stress assuming 1 rogue bathroom outlet managed to make it into a circuit it shouldn't otherwise be wired, as an example of what I've found in some sets of wiring. 30A seems like a great idea, given what you've said and when you set up the other one.. would love to see what results - keep us informed!
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its still going to be a few years for the 50 amp. lol. gotta plan that one out to the extreme before attempting 12-14000 watts. lmao. im staying closer to 6-7k range for the time being just to be safe.
 
wheels619

wheels619

Well-Known Member
Figong said:
Quite welcome, glad I could - if you're having any form of an issue, or can not guarantee 100% of the locations it appears... you can always kill the breaker and put a tone box on it.. and check outlets - is exactly the same thing telephone guys use, cept it's designed for outlets and can save a migraine or branch stress assuming 1 rogue bathroom outlet managed to make it into a circuit it shouldn't otherwise be wired, as an example of what I've found in some sets of wiring. 30A seems like a great idea, given what you've said and when you set up the other one.. would love to see what results - keep us informed!
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ill post some pics after we start the build the first. :)
 
Figong

Figong

Well-Known Member
wheels619 said:
whats a ground? lmfao. come on dude only stupid people tackle electricity without knowledge or at least proper research first.
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hahaha, you just reminded me of something I was going to share.. but I will assume you've done research on it given your statement there =) Would rather not post it at this time unless you're truly curious.. as I'm trying to be helpful, and in no way wish to come off as if I am speaking down to you, or being condescending at all.
 
wheels619

wheels619

Well-Known Member
Figong said:
hahaha, you just reminded me of something I was going to share.. but I will assume you've done research on it given your statement there =) Would rather not post it at this time unless you're truly curious.. as I'm trying to be helpful, and in no way wish to come off as if I am speaking down to you, or being condescending at all.
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speak away. its all learning experience with electricity and im still learning so the help is appreciated. altho im a little farther into elec 101 than the ground wire. lol. it is probably something ive been over already but you never know could be helpful.
 
Figong

Figong

Well-Known Member
Was just going to say.. watch for white cable that has black or red electrical tape on it.. especially near the ends. (Most easily identified if you can see behind the breaker box clearly, to see if something like that is in play already) - If you're not familiar with that sort of marking, it signifies that the white (usually neutral) from a 2nd pair of the 240 line is infact.. nowhere near neutral - it's hot.
 
Shivaskunk

Shivaskunk

Well-Known Member
In a run that long im guessing you know that larger gauge is a must due to voltage drop which increases current. 30 amp is pretty thick but the more power you pull the warmer that cord will get. If you wanted to be really safe you could get some 10/3 romex cable and just run that outlet over to your grow room if the dryer outlet is 30 amps already should be pretty easy.

I had a house burn down due to faulty wiringso im extra paranoid.
 
wheels619

wheels619

Well-Known Member
Figong said:
Was just going to say.. watch for white cable that has black or red electrical tape on it.. especially near the ends. (Most easily identified if you can see behind the breaker box clearly, to see if something like that is in play already) - If you're not familiar with that sort of marking, it signifies that the white (usually neutral) from a 2nd pair of the 240 line is infact.. nowhere near neutral - it's hot.
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yeah white and black are going to be hot in the pair of cables i have the bare copper is going to be the common i already marked the white with black tape to remind myself whats up. lol. but thank you for the info. most people would see it and not consider that 220 is 2 110 volt lines joined together basically to boost voltage to drop amperage in higher and longer than normal electrical loads if im not mistaken.
 
wheels619

wheels619

Well-Known Member
Shivaskunk said:
In a run that long im guessing you know that larger gauge is a must due to voltage drop which increases current. 30 amp is pretty thick but the more power you pull the warmer that cord will get. If you wanted to be really safe you could get some 10/3 romex cable and just run that outlet over to your grow room if the dryer outlet is 30 amps already should be pretty easy.

I had a house burn down due to faulty wiringso im extra paranoid.
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yeah thats where my paranoia is coming from. never burned one down but almost rewiring a ceiling fan. lol. ive learned to be a lot more careful since my younger years. i have 10/2 romex the third wire being ground is bare inside the jacket and the two hots are insulated. should work pretty well hopefully fingers crossed.
 
wheels619

wheels619

Well-Known Member
wheels619 said:
yeah white and black are going to be hot in the pair of cables i have the bare copper is going to be the common i already marked the white with black tape to remind myself whats up. lol. but thank you for the info. most people would see it and not consider that 220 is 2 110 volt lines joined together basically to boost voltage to drop amperage in higher and longer than normal electrical loads if im not mistaken.
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wait technically its supposed to be 120 and 240 right? i guess im a little curious as to how 240 comes into play or if its in fact 220 just dumbed down from voltage loss becuz of resistance in the lines.
 
Figong

Figong

Well-Known Member
wheels619 said:
wait technically its supposed to be 120 and 240 right? i guess im a little curious as to how 240 comes into play or if its in fact 220 just dumbed down from voltage loss becuz of resistance in the lines.
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When people say '110'... they actually mean 120 (for the most part.. there -are- exceptions), with a +/-5% variance, giving 114 to 126V. Some places have been wired for actual 110, 113, 115, 117, but it's nowhere near as common as it was. Have to run out for a few, back shortly... and if you wouldn't mind, please post schematic of the place in pic form up so I can peek at it if you don't mind? Would rather look at what's in circuit/how the legs are run than get you and I both surprised.
 
wheels619

wheels619

Well-Known Member
Figong said:
When people say '110'... they actually mean 120 (for the most part.. there -are- exceptions), with a +/-5% variance, giving 114 to 126V. Some places have been wired for actual 110, 113, 115, 117, but it's nowhere near as common as it was. Have to run out for a few, back shortly... and if you wouldn't mind, please post schematic of the place in pic form up so I can peek at it if you don't mind? Would rather look at what's in circuit/how the legs are run than get you and I both surprised.
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i move in the new place the first. i can post a few pics then of the grow space. i still have a lot of construction to do when we get there but ill post a.s.a.p.
 
Figong

Figong

Well-Known Member
wheels619 said:
yeah white and black are going to be hot in the pair of cables i have the bare copper is going to be the common i already marked the white with black tape to remind myself whats up. lol. but thank you for the info. most people would see it and not consider that 220 is 2 110 volt lines joined together basically to boost voltage to drop amperage in higher and longer than normal electrical loads if im not mistaken.
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White and Black are a good choice, without question. Did you grab a meter and check ground so you know it's solid if it happens to get jiggled? Loose ground can be a disaster, especially if you have delicate circuits on it (if it's just appliances, wouldn't make as much of a difference if ohms are up a bit... compared to say.. an amateur radio, with antenna that -has- to re-direct lightning strikes w/0 ohm, or you could very well have a fire in your house) as an example.
 
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