Milky Weed
Well-Known Member
I think I used it too early also. Has SO MUCH K in it i cut it with more N. My leaf’s started yellowing up from lack of nitrogen.
3 days on jack's 5-12-26 and the plants are loving it! Bye bye General Hydroponics forever
- Thread starter jonnynobody
- Start date
Failmore
Well-Known Member
It was hard for me to mount the press to the bottom block and keep it solid. Did not have the correct parts for it. So I was not getting solid contact. Then when I tried to fix it I messed up the jack and gave up.Dabpress has a pretty outstanding reputation. I haven't seen a single bad review from anyone. I called their tech support line just to ask a few questions about the different models and their customer service is phenomenal. Informative and very easy to talk to unlike most other customer service A-holes you get on the phone.
There are 3 kinds of people in this world when it comes to MacGyvering shit: people that can build things, people that think they can build things, and people that need supervision to operate a toaster. I know I can't build things and don't even make the attempt. I'm the guy that needs supervision operating the toaster
What was the issue with your home made press?
jonnynobody
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't quibble much over why one manufacturer uses calcium carbonate versus calcium nitrate. It's much ado about nothing.
GH uses calcium nitrate in maxi grow: https://www.brewandgrow.com/gh-maxigro-22-lb-pouch.html
And they use it in their flora series within the micro bottle: https://www.1000bulbs.com/pdf/gh-gh1414-label.pdf
Like I said it's really much ado about nothing. Maybe GH gets calcium carbonate cheaper? They are a money grubbing piece of shit company. I really wouldn't read too much into it. I've never had an issue with using the standard jack's recipe as it's listed on the bag diluted to 1.6ec PH adjusted to 5.8.
If you prefer to reduce the calcium input in the final weeks of your flower cycle you simply reduce the calcium nitrate. At the end of the flower cycle the plant isn't creating new growth of any kind. The plants are just ripening. There's no need for all that calcium and nitrogen at the end so many people do reduce in the last 2 weeks. Jack's own regimen on their feed chart suggests using the 7-15-30 finish formula for the last 2 weeks with no calcium nitrate. There are a couple approaches you can take to reduce the nitrogen input at the end of flower.
I ran the 7-15-30 finish formula and I'm not sure what to think. I didn't notice any notable difference vs running 321 to the end. I also do not flush.
jonnynobody
Well-Known Member
You at least made a valiant effort. That's more than most will ever do (myself included). There were some reviews I saw where people were receiving brand new presses that had fucked up plates that were uneven and wouldn't line up. This situation reminds me of the old saying about why you pay a carpenter to swing a hammer. You've got a squeaky floorboard that's driving you nuts. Carpenter shows up, scratches his head for a second, and gives a couple solid whacks with his trusty hammer to a particular board on the floor. Magically the squeak has been fixed. Carpenter looks at the customer and says, alright that'll be $150. Customer says, why would I pay that? All you did was hit a board with your hammer. I coulda done that! Carpenter smiles and says, did you know which board to whack with the hammer? That'll be $150 cash, check, or money order
Snowback
Well-Known Member
You may already know this, but keep in mind that Avid is extremely toxic and it is also systemic.
cobshopgrow
Well-Known Member
ive never used their product, but i guess the nutrient manufactorers fill you everything in a bottle as long someone is buying it.
if they really use calcium carbonate only in their mix it should be as good as every slow release garden lime.
maybe buy a small bag of calcium carbonate powder and try yourself, it hardly disolve in water.
jonnynobody
Well-Known Member
It's awful horrible stuff. I wear a full hazmat suit with respirator. I'm sending a sample off for a test to a local testing facility after the next harvest. For $75 they'll hook you up with an analysis of what's in the plant matter. If there are any pesticides or other contaminants it will list the chemical and concentration.
Forbid has the longest half life at 45 days so if it's only being used in veg and the plants have another 60-70 days of flower it should be metabolized from the plant tissue by harvest time. Avid has a 28 day half life if I remember correctly. None of this is ideal. This is pure desperation.
xtsho
Well-Known Member
You feel the need to wear a respirator when applying the stuff yet you spray it on your plants?
Why don't you just use citric acid?
jonnynobody
Well-Known Member
I know man. It's far less than ideal taking this approach and as soon as they're eradicated I'll revert to my organic options. I've had good luck with venerate and spinosad, but all the other organic stuff I've tried has just damaged the plants. Horticultural soap was the worst even at 50% of the recommended dose it fried everything. Had to actually toss a few plants. I do plan to buy azagaurd in the near future. Azamax is absurdly overpriced, but the product works very well. I've got 2 more products I'm eyeing up for the IPM. Pyganic seems to be highly recommended and it's fairly cheap. The other one I plan to buy is azagaurd from domyown but that puppy is $230 or so. No smaller quantities. The value over buying azamax from those blood suckers at GH is tremendous due to the high concentration and low application rate. Gotta save a few more pennies to hit the order button on that one. Once the infestation is eradicatedTo be completely forthcoming I kept frying my plants with citric. I even reduced to 2tsp/quart and it kept frying my new foliage twisting and curling. I've made 3 attempts so far to make the citric work to no avail. Is there something I'm doing wrong with the application? I reduce the lights to a cloudy day with barely any output before I spray and the same thing keeps happening.
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
i've read that too but how is it true if calcium carbonate is in my well water and my plants never need Ca supplementation?
cobshopgrow
Well-Known Member
same for my tap water, while mine have way too much carbonates.
not directly avaible dont mean not avaible at all, if the carbonate reacts with some acid it becomes avaiable, like for the people who make calcium acetate, or lets take limed peat as example.
the peat is acidic the lime is alkaline, both together will react and make the calcium avaiable.
calcium carbonate is a pretty good PH up, am sure this all is nothing new for you, i just wanted to point it out.
not directly avaible dont mean not avaible at all, if the carbonate reacts with some acid it becomes avaiable, like for the people who make calcium acetate, or lets take limed peat as example.
the peat is acidic the lime is alkaline, both together will react and make the calcium avaiable.
calcium carbonate is a pretty good PH up, am sure this all is nothing new for you, i just wanted to point it out.
cobshopgrow
Well-Known Member
i think maxibloom have some calcium carbonate included, but not much and it have a lot acidic P in it, so this will balance each other out and make it disolvable and avaiable to the plant.
on my hunt for calcium nitrate substitutes (as its hard to get anyway where i am) i also came across calcium sulfate, gypsum, quickly avaiable, quite PH neutral, you just have maybe too much sulfur in your mix which isnt a big deal often.
a nice option i never tried but eyed is chelated calcium, its really expensive and there are just a few sources, but it sounds really tempting to use later in flower.
on my hunt for calcium nitrate substitutes (as its hard to get anyway where i am) i also came across calcium sulfate, gypsum, quickly avaiable, quite PH neutral, you just have maybe too much sulfur in your mix which isnt a big deal often.
a nice option i never tried but eyed is chelated calcium, its really expensive and there are just a few sources, but it sounds really tempting to use later in flower.
cobshopgrow
Well-Known Member
if you do please share the results.
jonnynobody
Well-Known Member
I had a repeat yesterday of the same issue I dealt with last grow cycle. The little red rust spot looking dots that appeared on my leaves on several plants was not the result of a deficiency. I only noticed them on 1 plant yesterday and the first occurrence with this grow cycle. I plucked a leaf to find out what was going on under my trusty 40x kids microscope. Effing spider mites were causing the spots. The leaves that had the spots were covered in mite eggs. I plucked every last one and hosed the plants down with a pesticide treatment. I'm now spraying daily alternating spinosad, venerate, and every 3rd day I'm rotating forbid, floramite, and avid. Shit is just unbelievable they're surviving with the onslaught of pesticide I've been applying.
Last cycle I was certain what I was seeing was a calcium deficiency. It was not and had nothing to do with fertilizer. I'd suggest anyone who is not running some form of IPM correct that shit immediately. Eventually lack of IPM will decimate your garden and make you wanna tear your hair out.
I started 30 or so fresh seeds and abandoned any ideas of taking clones from the infected plants. I'm over this shit. I've isolated the seedlings in a nursery far away from the flower room. I spray a 10% bleach solution on the floor all around the entrance of the nursery tent every day now. Learn from my pain and implement an IPM system of some kind.
Last cycle I was certain what I was seeing was a calcium deficiency. It was not and had nothing to do with fertilizer. I'd suggest anyone who is not running some form of IPM correct that shit immediately. Eventually lack of IPM will decimate your garden and make you wanna tear your hair out.
I started 30 or so fresh seeds and abandoned any ideas of taking clones from the infected plants. I'm over this shit. I've isolated the seedlings in a nursery far away from the flower room. I spray a 10% bleach solution on the floor all around the entrance of the nursery tent every day now. Learn from my pain and implement an IPM system of some kind.
MidnightSun72
Well-Known Member
Half way through my second small bag of Jacks Tap. So I just ordered a 22lb. The girls are vegging along nicely on it 0.7 starting EC. I add nutes up to 2.0EC. Then add Epsom up to 2.1EC. So far it's going really well. And my girls transitioned to the floraflex in flower perfectly. Really happy with Jacks.
jonnynobody
Well-Known Member
Back in the day Uncle Ben over @ ICMAG was using the 20-20-20 with amazing results start to finish. He even tried a few of their other fertilizer mixes I've never seen anyone else use and his plants always looked amazing. His purpose was to clearly and definitely once and for all prove to everyone you do not need cannabis specific nutrients. It's all a sham. He'd post pictures of his frosty fat colas and it was very impressive. Great guy that gave great advice. It just took me a long time to listen
Some info would be greatly appreciated if possibleSo I have 2 stock solutions made up on hand. 1 is jack's 5-12-26 at the maximum solubility of 2# to 1 gallon RO water. The other is 580g calcium nitrate to 1 gallon RO water. I'm going to figure out how much liquid stock solution is needed of each that is equivalent to 3.6g/gallon of powder and 2.4g/gallon of powder. Once I have those numbers I can start rocking the stock solution accurately with confidence. I'll be adding epsom to my next stock solution to make res making day as easy as possible. I hate weighing powders
So I would like to make stock solution of Jacks 3.6 2.4 1.2 feed
So is it 3.6 x 100 for 51226
2.4 x 100 for cal nit
1.2/x 100 for Epsom
So after that how would you feed in mils per gal to get desired 321
MidnightSun72
Well-Known Member
You would mix your powder liquid concentrate at a ratio of 1 to 1 to 1.
You need to test how much it raises the waters EC.
take a gallon of water and a table spoon of each and measure the EC. And then increase the number of table spoons of each mixture until you hit your desired EC.
so as an example. If your water starts at 0-0.1EC. And you add in 1 table spoon of each mixture and you end up with an EC of 0.8. Then you would know you need 2 tables spoons of each to hit an EC of ~1.6 then test and see.