sparki
Active Member
back off your feeding schedule, have you contacted tech support? they'll tell you to feed once a week in soil
3 white rhino plants dying slowly! HELP ME PLZ!
- Thread starter ENGLAND123
- Start date
sparki
Active Member
and yes, youll use bud blood only one time, even though that was probably wat you paid the most on.
ENGLAND123
Well-Known Member
ok i get this - i will cut back on the nutes there flowering (week on sunday ) do you think going off the pics that were taken yesterday - they'll be ok to flower them a week on sunday - that will mean theve had 7/8 weeks VEG - from seed
dangledo
Well-Known Member
My internet has been acting up. Had it fixed today.
I would have to agree that it is Magnesium deficiency. Although Magnesium is most available at 7 on ph scale. http://www.hydrogarden.com/img/graph_phchart.jpg
Magnesium still can be hard for a plant to get even at the right ph. If your soil is to wet and cold or to acidic and cold. Magnesium is also bound if there are to high of levels potassium, nitrogen, and calcium.
Seeing that you have not actually fed them any nutes before the symptoms occured, and your soil is not considered "hot", (alot of ferts). Id say that you are experiencing lock out. Flushing is a way to get rid of residual salts that have built up in your media. Once again, you have barely fed and your soil is not that strong in nutes. So I would say that a remedy without "flushing" with all of that water, would be to make sure that you ph any water given to them to "unlock" the avalibility to the plants. You should have plenty of mg in your soil already. Until they can recover from that, a quick way to deliver would be to foliar feed, adding a 2% solution of epsom salts. And buying a ph pen will save you so much time you will wonder why you have been using the drops this whole time, i get a reading in seconds. Using drops in nutrient water can be tricky to the eye as the water clarity is greatly reduced, causing misreadings, unless you are that good.
I would have to agree that it is Magnesium deficiency. Although Magnesium is most available at 7 on ph scale. http://www.hydrogarden.com/img/graph_phchart.jpg
Magnesium still can be hard for a plant to get even at the right ph. If your soil is to wet and cold or to acidic and cold. Magnesium is also bound if there are to high of levels potassium, nitrogen, and calcium.
Seeing that you have not actually fed them any nutes before the symptoms occured, and your soil is not considered "hot", (alot of ferts). Id say that you are experiencing lock out. Flushing is a way to get rid of residual salts that have built up in your media. Once again, you have barely fed and your soil is not that strong in nutes. So I would say that a remedy without "flushing" with all of that water, would be to make sure that you ph any water given to them to "unlock" the avalibility to the plants. You should have plenty of mg in your soil already. Until they can recover from that, a quick way to deliver would be to foliar feed, adding a 2% solution of epsom salts. And buying a ph pen will save you so much time you will wonder why you have been using the drops this whole time, i get a reading in seconds. Using drops in nutrient water can be tricky to the eye as the water clarity is greatly reduced, causing misreadings, unless you are that good.
statik
Well-Known Member
My internet has been acting up. Had it fixed today.
I would have to agree that it is Magnesium deficiency. Although Magnesium is most available at 7 on ph scale. http://www.hydrogarden.com/img/graph_phchart.jpg
Magnesium still can be hard for a plant to get even at the right ph. If your soil is to wet and cold or to acidic and cold. Magnesium is also bound if there are to high of levels potassium, nitrogen, and calcium.
Seeing that you have not actually fed them any nutes before the symptoms occured, and your soil is not considered "hot", (alot of ferts). Id say that you are experiencing lock out. Flushing is a way to get rid of residual salts that have built up in your media. Once again, you have barely fed and your soil is not that strong in nutes. So I would say that a remedy without "flushing" with all of that water, would be to make sure that you ph any water given to them to "unlock" the avalibility to the plants. You should have plenty of mg in your soil already. Until they can recover from that, a quick way to deliver would be to foliar feed, adding a 2% solution of epsom salts. And buying a ph pen will save you so much time you will wonder why you have been using the drops this whole time, i get a reading in seconds. Using drops in nutrient water can be tricky to the eye as the water clarity is greatly reduced, causing misreadings, unless you are that good.
LMAO...listen to this guy! No, I am NOT being sarcastic. I was just going to write out something very similar to this.
Only thing I would add is that plants do best in soil at a PH of 6.0 - 6.5
Always TEST your runoff to see what the PH is at. That also should give you a good idea of what the soils actual PH is. I just watered yesterday. Water going in was @ 6.3...I tested my run off and it was 6.4 (Just to show you that it DOES vary)
You indeed have some build up going on here. If you look at your leaves they are raised in between the veins. This is a sign of heat stress, or build up (or both). In your case i am going to say build up.
I just posted this on another persons thread a bit ago:
http://www.generalhydroponics.com/genhydro_US/florakleen.html
Great stuff for correcting lock out, and fixing build up.
Dont even have to fully flush when you use it to just clean out your soil. Just a good watering.
dangledo
Well-Known Member
So you think that there is a salt build up?
From what?
He is using a premix soil, and just started using organic nutes on a 6 week old plants.
his problem had started weeks before he added iguana.
Ive run 1100 ppm for months before a flush. No lock out. Not saying its good but a salt build up without giving them nutes?
Id say its a ph lock out rather than a salt build up.
"6.5 to 7 is best for marijuana in soil, 6.5 being ideal".
From what?
He is using a premix soil, and just started using organic nutes on a 6 week old plants.
his problem had started weeks before he added iguana.
Ive run 1100 ppm for months before a flush. No lock out. Not saying its good but a salt build up without giving them nutes?
Id say its a ph lock out rather than a salt build up.
"6.5 to 7 is best for marijuana in soil, 6.5 being ideal".
statik
Well-Known Member
Snap, you caught me... I forgot he had said he wasnt really giving them nutes. Good point. Then maybe heat stress? I know that ridging of the veins like that is normally caused by one of the two. Either build up or heat. I am no pro, so I very well could be wrong. Good call there Dangledo, good call.
have had this problem before...there are salt build ups in the soil. flush them with a ph balanced water with a flushing aid to get rid of all the built up salts. foliar spray with an epsom salt mix and make sure that your ph is going into the pots at around 5.8-6.0 because it will rise as it lays in the pot. good luck!!
statik
Well-Known Member
strain stalker
New Member
...plants look pretty good, other then the mag./cal. dif. I think....however, they look like you mist...and fyi, you should never mist while the lights are on. The water drops act as magnifying glass and burn the foliage....furthermore, you should only mist when your either (a) foilar feeding due to element deprivation or (b) fighting insects...good luck.
SmokeyMcPuff
Member
Flush the plants and hold off on feeding them for about 2 feedings maybe 3 they should be fine.
dangledo
Well-Known Member
Forget already?
Once again, he didnt feed until after the problem had already occurred.
Read his other threads.
dangledo
Well-Known Member
If you have proper ventilation then there would be no worry about light burn from water droplets.
Dutch Master Penetrator
http://www.4hydroponics.com/nutrients/liquidLight.asp
The best just got a whole 60% better! It is a clinically proven fact, that Penetrator Gold is the only effective way to harness the incredible power of foliar spraying. If you are using other so called "wetting" agents then you are doing just that, wetting your leaves and very little else. Without Penetrator, foliar sprays will not work as effectively.
Note: This foliar delivery system allows you to spray solutions directly onto your plants with the lights on, which is essential when using Dutch Master Liquid Light!
Liquid Light foliar spray is designed to dramatically improve the way your plant processes your HID or flourescent lighting. Amazingly, it gives your plants the equivalent of up to 60% more usable light!
Liquid Light is a formula of selected Amino Acids, Metabolites, and Phospholipids that works by supercharging the chloroplasts, tiny specialized cells in the leaves of your plant that processes light and give them their natural green color.
These are not nutrients either......................
Dutch Master Penetrator
http://www.4hydroponics.com/nutrients/liquidLight.asp
The best just got a whole 60% better! It is a clinically proven fact, that Penetrator Gold is the only effective way to harness the incredible power of foliar spraying. If you are using other so called "wetting" agents then you are doing just that, wetting your leaves and very little else. Without Penetrator, foliar sprays will not work as effectively.
Note: This foliar delivery system allows you to spray solutions directly onto your plants with the lights on, which is essential when using Dutch Master Liquid Light!
Liquid Light foliar spray is designed to dramatically improve the way your plant processes your HID or flourescent lighting. Amazingly, it gives your plants the equivalent of up to 60% more usable light!
Liquid Light is a formula of selected Amino Acids, Metabolites, and Phospholipids that works by supercharging the chloroplasts, tiny specialized cells in the leaves of your plant that processes light and give them their natural green color.
These are not nutrients either......................
statik
Well-Known Member
Ok, I just realized something here. Everyone was talking about PH and lock out before I mentioned the rigged leaves issue. The main issue was the leaves that are showing nute def's.
OP said the nute def look started BEFORE he was feeding Iguana, yes. Which means its his PH causing that issue of course, we pretty much all know this.
Now, how many times HAS the plant been fed Iguana OP? I think that right there will help determine if there is possibility for build up as well. You mentioned that you feed every other watering. It would only take a few feedings to get build up in your plants going on when your PH is screwy. Plants absorb different nutes better/worse depending on the PH (obviously).
Either way though, your PH is off and when you fix that your issues will be far less.
dangledo
Well-Known Member
You are right about that. You COULD have a build up of nitrogen if the ph is not correct. IMO. he has just repotted and fed organic nutes I think twice, not at full strength. With watering in between. I just dont think that there would be a build up of (especially)organic nitrogen, in fresh soil already.
I have 5 plants with irregular humidity which causes stress in the leafs. causing the leafs to throw up ridges, raise the inter veinal tissue, and even claw at times. Humidity has been especially off due to the weather fluctution in my area.
My run off ec is so close to what I put in I know that there is no build up. I run reverse osmosis every other feeding. I show 0 signs of and def. cause I add macro, primary, and secondary.
What I am saying is that leafs will do all sorts of things. Too wet and cant transpire quick enough. Too dry.. to quickly........
*Statik your name looks similar to sparki- my fault.
I have 5 plants with irregular humidity which causes stress in the leafs. causing the leafs to throw up ridges, raise the inter veinal tissue, and even claw at times. Humidity has been especially off due to the weather fluctution in my area.
My run off ec is so close to what I put in I know that there is no build up. I run reverse osmosis every other feeding. I show 0 signs of and def. cause I add macro, primary, and secondary.
What I am saying is that leafs will do all sorts of things. Too wet and cant transpire quick enough. Too dry.. to quickly........
*Statik your name looks similar to sparki- my fault.
statik
Well-Known Member
Ah, humidity can cause that intervienal tissue to raise like that? This is something I was unaware of. I know my fair share about growing, but I am still learning more all the time.
Either way, OP needs to fix the PH and foilar feed like you suggested earlier. Been fun discussing this with you man.
reggaerican
Well-Known Member
great point NEVER!! feed plants when planted in fresh dirt like del said for at least a month depending on soil of course
and then start with a mild solution 500ppm or so and then increace from there flushing every three weeks with 300ppm.
goodluck maybe one day your pains will help others as others have helped us. Peace
and then start with a mild solution 500ppm or so and then increace from there flushing every three weeks with 300ppm.
goodluck maybe one day your pains will help others as others have helped us. Peace