Heating the other rooms when lights are off it's cold in Canada! Do you think this is ideal? If not what do you suggest
40+ lbs with 12 Plants in 2 Rooms on a Flip
- Thread starter Renfro
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Renfro
Well-Known Member
It could be fine to do what you propose, at least as long as you don't have issues with warmer humid air mixing with cooler air and causing high RH%. With this chart you can see that air @ 82.4F and 50% RH contains 12.05 grams of H2O per kg of air. Now that same air cools off to lets say 73.4F the RH% would end up between 65 and 70%. In later flower those levels could cause issues with bud rot. Temperature and RH% fluctuation can promote powdery mildew as well.
sfsdfuturegrower
Member
It could be fine to do what you propose, at least as long as you don't have issues with warmer humid air mixing with cooler air and causing high RH%. With this chart you can see that air @ 82.4F and 50% RH contains 12.05 grams of H2O per kg of air. Now that same air cools off to lets say 73.4F the RH% would end up between 65 and 70%. In later flower those levels could cause issues with bud rot. Temperature and RH% fluctuation can promote powdery mildew as well.
Great grow journal, I finally made it. Glad you answered the question about circulating air between two rooms possibly causing rh issue. I was wondering if it made sense to do it but really like your reasoning about bud rot.
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Lucky Luke
Well-Known Member
Ballsy grow for NZ.
Sif1
Well-Known Member
Gotta keep the medicine flowing.
Chronicly ill
Member
how do you access the area for inspection, spraying etc? and how do you irrigate? Curious about the tables too, how they drain?
MidnightSun72
Well-Known Member
Hey love your grow rooms they look so nice and clean. Does it drive you mad for the vertical hps bulbs to throw all that light on the ground? Compared to the LEDs for side lighting? This last cropI got in the oven I've been using LED side light and love the even size of bud all through the plants. I want to run vertical CMH between rows. But kind of mind fucking me to light the floor in the aisles. Do you feel the gain in yield from the side lighting is worth the loss to the floor? Or is it more an overall bud quality thing?
Sif1
Well-Known Member
In-room 1 the tables are on wheels and give about a 20 inches to access. Also, I have a special chair on wheels that I can sit on to access the lower area's. Works well.
Sif1
Well-Known Member
"Does it drive you mad for the vertical hps bulbs to throw all that light on the ground? " Do you mean the horizontal lights beside the LEDs? Because of how room 1 is designed using sog I don't get light loss to the ground. In fact, light penetration is more an issue as I'm only running 600's. 1000,s would give me better penetration. I can take some pic's under the less compared to the hps,s. In regards to the quality of bud, I see two factors. The terpene profile from the led's looks better, but the yield looks lower. Not as dense as the HPS's.
Currently my main issue is controlling humidity and keeping an eye out for rot.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Use 55-70% of the actual watts drawn from your LED lights as you would use for high intensity discharge lighting. Don't go by the label- "works like 1000W with only 220W!!"- go by the actual draw, so the 220W would do a good job of replacing a 315W CMH, but not anything bigger.
When you have the right light intensity in LED, you'll know because the terpene profile will be very good and the nugs will be hard and heavy.
Renfro
Well-Known Member
So what if a little bit of light is wasted, nothing is ever 100% efficient. Still, the gains far outweigh the cost. Keep in mind that the amount of light going down to the floor from the end of a vertical bare bulb is minimal compared to what is emitted from the sides of the bulb. I feel more light is wasted traveling along the aisle instead of perpendicular towards the plants. Still, the gains far outweigh the costs. A really cool idea I have is to make a reflector for the 1500's, something with a cone shape on the bottom where the end of the bulb is to send that light towards the plants and reflector material down each side of the bulb something like this >o< if you are looking at it from the top and the "o" is the bulb with the > < redirecting light that would otherwise travel along the aisle not towards the plants.
I firmly believe, light the room and let the plants grow to the light filling it out. The most wasteful period is the veg / stretch phase as most of the light doesn't hit a plant. If that light wasn't there though there would be no encouragement for the plants to fill the space out.
How wide are the aisles between your rows? I have found that since the light goes in all directions you really need some power to hit the sides of the rows with strong light. A 600 watt HPS works ok in my aisles, if I put three of them along there it would be pretty good but a 1000 watter really blows the 600 away if just running a single lamp in my aisle. Right now my thing is 1500 watt bare vertical HPS on a light rail mover. This allows the light to travel the length of the row instead of just hanging in the center. With the 1500 I measure about 1100 umol at the side of the trellis rig, of course the plants grow outwards towards the light and those levels increase rapidly as the plants approach the lamp. Therefore, if the light wasn't on a mover it would be too much as the plants grow out of the side trellis and towards the center of the aisle. In my case I am prepared to switch the light to a 1000 watt HPS should the plants end up growing too far out the sides of the trellis rig.
In my particular configuration I feel that LED is best suited to the row end lights and perhaps overhead lighting. Any attempt to put a two sided LED setup in the aisle would be too bulky and limit my ability to move around. So HPS /MH is what I intend to run for the aisle lighting. Currently I am moving towards room B being all LED except for the 1500's on the light rails. I will probably replace the overhead DE's in there with LED before the heat of summer.
Lets say that overhead lighting (HPS in this case) results in a gram per watt of yield and lets say that side lighting only adds 0.5 grams per watt. At current prices even at only 0.5 grams per watt of side lighting is profitable, if adding a 400 watt HPS on the row end only added 200 grams of yield it would definitely be profitable. Without the end light I might pull a few ounces of not so well lit flower off the end, or just prune most of it off but with the end light I get "about a pound" off a row end, thats definitely well worth the 360 kWh (about $40 in my case) that the 400 watt lamp would consume over 75 days of 12/12. With three rows (6 plants) in a room that adds up to a good 6 pounds of additional flower. On average an additional 14 pounds is generated with the side canopy in one 6 plant room. For many grows with just 6 plants that would be the entire yield but in my case add that to another 12 pounds from the top canopy and you have a room thats capable of pulling 25 pounds off 6 plants.
My goal is to pull as much as possible out of the space / plant count. I would only pull around 16 - 18 pounds if I were to eliminate the rows and make it impossible to walk around in there, add some overhead lighting and just focus on overhead canopy running more plants that aren't as tall (no reason for height if it's all lollipopped off). So the side canopy not only enables me to move around in there it makes for more canopy.
cobshopgrow
Well-Known Member
thanks, fat grow there, you may wanna show us closeups of the led section compared to a closeup of a HPS section ?
MidnightSun72
Well-Known Member
About 2ft between rows. But I am going to tables so they will love around. So I wanna set the lighting up for that. I've been looking at the metal halid 400W high bay reflectors to adapt for my 315W because it reduces fixture width. A big problem with the LED frames is how much head room they take up its hard to hang other fixtures at the same height without running out of space. Keeping my lights about 30-36" above final canopy.
I wasn't questioning like it was bad I was curious as to the reasoning lol. That's all. I didn't know they were on movers which is pretty cool. What's the umol/j on the 1500w hps?
Sif1
Well-Known Member
Get some pic's for you tomorrow. And will take some where the hps/led crossover occurs.thanks, fat grow there, you may wanna show us closeups of the led section compared to a closeup of an HPS section ?
cobshopgrow
Well-Known Member
have no expectations, just curious to see and think you have a very nice showcase there.
btw. i do think it makes sense to go a bit lower the last 2 weeks otherwise you often have problem to get them ripe (foxtails).
depneds on the intensity youre running of course.
btw. i do think it makes sense to go a bit lower the last 2 weeks otherwise you often have problem to get them ripe (foxtails).
depneds on the intensity youre running of course.
Ebenezer Kong
Active Member
I’m using the growcraft fixtures and have scaled back the wattage toward the end as of late. Can’t say that I’ve noticed a huge difference yet but I’m comparing. Like most things it may end up being strain dependent
Sif1
Well-Known Member
Most rooms run 20 to 25 600's. I'm thinking of dropping them back to the 400W settings. Comments welcome.
kingromano
Well-Known Member
you don't want to reduce light intensity the last week
at this stage plants have the bigger needs in light
thats how you get dense buds and lot of resin
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