4x1000watt DE or SE for 8x16 tent?

johndoe12345678

johndoe12345678

Well-Known Member
Im still on the fence with getting 8x16 or a 10x20 gorilla tent. Im running tent inside insulated garage average temps are typical of midwest, i cant run mini split and plan on using a window AC, I understand DE that are attached to fixture put off alot more BTUs of heat then a SE fixture, that being said should i just run SE, or DE and just run ballast away from reflector? I really wanna maximize my yields and ive never used DE inside a tent. Anyone have any suggestions?
 
I find DE are to powerful for tent even with lots of ventilation. They make some nice hot spots. I always run closed loop air cooled hoods SE 1000s in tents. I currently run staggarded 4x8 tents @ 2wk per tent this way.
 
Renfro said:
SE for tents. Air cooled hoods preferably.
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Have you used the sun systems 1000wat DE? Having a hard time deciding what aircooled I should use on a 8x16 tent. Looking for the reflector that will blow away every air cooled SE set up ive done in tents. Been researching and can't decide
 
johndoe12345678 said:
Have you used the sun systems 1000wat DE?
Click to expand...
I have a few of those ballasts running. All of my DE reflectors are the nanolux ones, the nanolux ballasts died and were replaced with Phantom and Sun system. I don't recommend using DE's with an air cooled reflector setup. For what you are trying to do (tent) you really want SE's or LED. Don't get wrapped up in thinking that the DE's are gonna give you better yield in the tent, on the contrary you will be fighting to keep your plants shorter due to the light intensity.

I highly recommend SE HPS or quality LED like the HLG and Timber options.

If I wanted to max out my yields in a tent I would be running some quality LED. Period.
 
For the 8 x 16 tent I would run eight 600 watt hps @660 each (you would need the overdrive ballasts) = 5280 watts. Expect 8 pounds minimum if done right.

For the 10 x 20 tent I would run eight single ended 1000 watt hps for a total of 8000 watts. Expect 12 pounds minimum if done right.
 
Renfro said:
I have a few of those ballasts running. All of my DE reflectors are the nanolux ones, the nanolux ballasts died and were replaced with Phantom and Sun system. I don't recommend using DE's with an air cooled reflector setup. For what you are trying to do (tent) you really want SE's or LED. Don't get wrapped up in thinking that the DE's are gonna give you better yield in the tent, on the contrary you will be fighting to keep your plants shorter due to the light intensity.

I highly recommend SE HPS or quality LED like the HLG and Timber options.

If I wanted to max out my yields in a tent I would be running some quality LED. Period.
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Makes sense do the timber LEDs really run that much cooler, ive read to get the same par output as a 1000wat you have to modify LED and once modified and pushing the same watts it ends up producing close to the same amount of heat.
 
johndoe12345678 said:
Makes sense do the timber LEDs really run that much cooler, ive read to get the same par output as a 1000wat you have to modify LED and once modified and pushing the same watts it ends up producing close to the same amount of heat.
Click to expand...
Quality LED is way different than shitty stuff and shouldn't require any "modification".

Well there are two factors, one is true wattage. There is a certain amount of heat associated with a watt and the LED uses less watts therefore puts out less heat. A timber Redwood (1kW SE HPS replacement) uses only 640 watts. So it puts out 36% less heat in that respect.

The bigger difference maker is IMO infrared light. The LED won't have any IR and the HPS will have a lot. The IR light heats up the surfaces it hits, not so much the air. This is why we actually need to run a little warmer temperatures with LED grows, to get the leaf surface temperature up to optimal. Too low slows growth. So instead of running a canopy temperature of say 79F with HPS you would want something more like 85F with LED.

So cooling savings happen with the wattage reduction and IR reduction but also by not having to keep the air as cool.

A well tuned LED grow will not only provide amazing quality flower with great density and abundant resin content but it will do so with less energy. Plus you don't have to replace bulbs every 6 - 12 months.
 
Renfro said:
Quality LED is way different than shitty stuff and shouldn't require any "modification".

Well there are two factors, one is true wattage. There is a certain amount of heat associated with a watt and the LED uses less watts therefore puts out less heat. A timber Redwood (1kW SE HPS replacement) uses only 640 watts. So it puts out 36% less heat in that respect.

The bigger difference maker is IMO infrared light. The LED won't have any IR and the HPS will have a lot. The IR light heats up the surfaces it hits, not so much the air. This is why we actually need to run a little warmer temperatures with LED grows, to get the leaf surface temperature up to optimal. Too low slows growth. So instead of running a canopy temperature of say 79F with HPS you would want something more like 85F with LED.

So cooling savings happen with the wattage reduction and IR reduction but also by not having to keep the air as cool.

A well tuned LED grow will not only provide amazing quality flower with great density and abundant resin content but it will do so with less energy. Plus you don't have to replace bulbs every 6 - 12 months.
Click to expand...
Now im down the rabbit hole with LEDs, in a 8x16 tent How many 1k SE equivalent timbers can I run without AC? with a average outside tent temp of 50degrees. What timber do you recommend?
 
In your space, assuming that it's all canopy area, I would use eight of the Redwood-VS lights since they have a 4x4 footprint and your space is 8x16.

If you pull fresh filtered air from outside (50 degrees) and exhaust the hot air outside with another blower / carbon filter, in a push pull arrangement, then you shouldn't require an AC. Just need good blowers and plug them into a temperature controller / environmental controller.
 
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