5 strains! Medi-bud, THC Bomb, Mango, SS Haze, J. Herer
- Thread starter onenumcat
- Start date
Where in the hell am I?
Well-Known Member
Lookin gorgeous, bro! Short, bushy, n green
onenumcat
Well-Known Member
Thanks a lot. I appreciate that...
If I were to post pics of the very same plants, at the very same angle, you'd be amazed at one days growth! and I cut the hours back!
that table surface is getting hit with 58,500lm, 6500k, ra:90, by two 400w MH, about a foot away, atm! that comes to about 6500lm per sq.ft. during lighting stage 1. with the strongest MH and HPS installed during lighting stage 2, it will be a total of 79,500lm/8800lm per sq.ft! during stage 3, towards the end of the flower period, I'll use both HPS bulbs for a total of 70500lm/7800lm per sq. ft., plus the 4 UVB bulbs. I'm just gonna thrust those bulbs, evenly spaced, throughout the crop, they're supposed to penetrate up to 50cm/@2feet!
I'm soooooo stoked!
Yeah, I'm feelin good...finally, a good grow. glad the first one was only bagseed, from real nice smoke though. and the second was crappy LR2, 5/8 males and one never germinated. I'll never grow it again, as a main crop, unless I've got at least 30 of em!! but they're great for an early harvest while you wait for your real weed to flower! I picked up, today, a moisture meter, an electronic Ph/thermometer tester, and PH up/down. also, got some better nutes, but still designed for garden, not Mj. anyway, they're gonna drink piss! picked up some clamp lamps for my UVB bulbs, power strips, extentions...and a few odds n ends for my Aerolights.Lookin gorgeous, bro! Short, bushy, n green
If I were to post pics of the very same plants, at the very same angle, you'd be amazed at one days growth! and I cut the hours back!
that table surface is getting hit with 58,500lm, 6500k, ra:90, by two 400w MH, about a foot away, atm! that comes to about 6500lm per sq.ft. during lighting stage 1. with the strongest MH and HPS installed during lighting stage 2, it will be a total of 79,500lm/8800lm per sq.ft! during stage 3, towards the end of the flower period, I'll use both HPS bulbs for a total of 70500lm/7800lm per sq. ft., plus the 4 UVB bulbs. I'm just gonna thrust those bulbs, evenly spaced, throughout the crop, they're supposed to penetrate up to 50cm/@2feet!
I'm soooooo stoked!
onenumcat
Well-Known Member
Thanks for stopping by...
I really appreciate you regulars peeking at my journal...well, regularly, lol.
sometimes, I'm just bursting to tell someone about something I'm doing in
the grow room, but only one person, other than me, knows what I'm doing.
he only know, because he's the 'front' man, does any selling, if there is anything
to sell.
so, it's good to know, somebody knows what I'm doing, but doesn't know me!
I really appreciate you regulars peeking at my journal...well, regularly, lol.
sometimes, I'm just bursting to tell someone about something I'm doing in
the grow room, but only one person, other than me, knows what I'm doing.
he only know, because he's the 'front' man, does any selling, if there is anything
to sell.
so, it's good to know, somebody knows what I'm doing, but doesn't know me!
dsn
Well-Known Member
Too many people know, that I grow, because of my big mouth and trust to other people without knowing them well. Major problem. When I realized it my mouth was shut up.onenumcat said:Thanks for stopping by...
I really appreciate you regulars peeking at my journal...well, regularly, lol.
sometimes, I'm just bursting to tell someone about something I'm doing in
the grow room, but only one person, other than me, knows what I'm doing.
he only know, because he's the 'front' man, does any selling, if there is anything
to sell.
so, it's good to know, somebody knows what I'm doing, but doesn't know me!
But I agree - this place is great to talk about what we all are doing without knowing each other.
onenumcat
Well-Known Member
so, here is something I spent most of the day doing...
I'll tell you what, simply, and why. then give details, so, if you aren't interested, or it would never apply to you, you won't waste much time reading it.
Why?
I have one SSH(see photo #1) that is either getting over watered or is getting nute burn. I'm not giving it more or less than the others, and no others look like it does.
I believe the cause is inadequate drainage. I 'engineered' my soil, using larger diameter stuff at the bottom, several handfuls of small gravel, then mixed two types soil for the upper layer. those types are; a compact, sandy, gritty one, and a loose, tiny gravel, 'dirt', with some type of seed hulls in it. it's really a nice mixture. it's 'firm', but still, kinda, 'loose', lol. it holds some moisture, but also, drains well.
however, I ran out of the looser type and some plants got a lot more of the heavier, denser, soil. those are retaining a lot more water, and not draining well; therefore, looking 'over watered' or 'nute burned'.
What did you do??
here's what I did...
first, I scooped all the driest soil from the surface into a cup. then, carefully excavated a 'well' all the way to the bottom of the pot, near the edge. it was about an inch/3-4cm in diameter. then, I cut a drinking straw, for a smaller pot, in half(for larger, deeper pots, I used a full sized drinking straw). (see photo #2) next, I made little cuts in the sides of the straw, but not all the way through, and inserted that into the well, the hole. then, I filled the hole with small pebbles, stones, and soil (non-moisture retaining type), to the top of the hole, but not covering the opening of the straw. Also, small stones were placed around the top of the straw, after filling the hole, to keep the straw vertical, prevent it from 'migrating' from watering or soil settling, and insure no debris will fall into it, clogging it up(see photo #3 & 4). the straw should remain clear all the way to the bottom, for as long as possible. eventually, it will fill with silt or whatever particles in the soil. it was rather tedious to do this to all the pots with that type of soil. I didn't do that to ones with great drainage/low moisture retention.
IT MUST BE DONE CAREFULLY, AWAY FROM WHERE ANY ROOTS ARE EXPECTED TO BE FOUND! (some roots may be hit anyway, don't worry, the benefits should outweigh any damage done. however, if you're hitting a lot of roots, a different location should be located. use a 'probe' before digging)
Why did you do that??
I used to do soil drilling, many years ago, lol, for several years. it was my job. understanding how the structure of soil works and, of course, how to 'drill' into it was necessary. I'm only going to explain how this thing I did works, not explain all about soil...so, don't worry! lol
we did this(placing a 'tube' down into soil, below the surface), on a much larger scale, to see how much water would/could, run off a slope or how much collected, say, in a ravine. by drilling a hole and inserting a long(30-50m+, PVC tube, which had lots of slots cut into the sides w/a hacksaw. then filling the remaining diameter of the hole with sand; course grain, or gravel, so no soil would clog the slots, and fill the tube. water passed through the 'filter' and filled the tube with water. we could then, at a later date, use an electric water sensor to measure how much water had drained to that spot, over a certain amount of time.
of course, in nature, there are few natural 'drains' and most water only seeps down to the water table, or to bedrock.
and, I'm not interested in measuring or collecting the water.
I'm only interested in 'draining' it, and potted plants usyally have that advantage, but some of mine don't.
What is the goal of doing that?
if incorrect or imperfect soil has been used, like in some of my pots. this technique should solve the problem without having to transplant using different, proper, soil, because water will naturally pursue the the course of least resistance. that course should be my 'well'. water will pass through the slots cut in the straw and drain out of the pot. some water will remain in the soil, of course, because its the 'wrong type', moisture retaining. because the 'well', and straw, go all the way to the bottom of the pot the 'over watering' problem and consequent nute burn should go away and not return!
also, because the 'well' is now full of warmer air, not cool, wet soil...it will dry the surrounding soil much faster, thereby drying the whole pot faster...and, oxygen, from the air, is provided, in much greater quantities, to the roots/soil around the well.
I'm hoping this solution will clear up accidental over watering/nute burn, caused by improper drainage and even, from just over loving them with too much water/nutes.
this technique should be good for any pot of soil, even properly potted ones, and I plan to do it to every pot, in all future grows, even though it takes a lot of time to do.
because of the excellent drainage properties and the extra oxygen supplied to the root system, this problem should not reoccur, unless the 'well' gets clogged, which is easy to remedy. just pull the straw up a little and poke a wire, or something thin, down there to clear it out.
I'll tell you what, simply, and why. then give details, so, if you aren't interested, or it would never apply to you, you won't waste much time reading it.
Why?
I have one SSH(see photo #1) that is either getting over watered or is getting nute burn. I'm not giving it more or less than the others, and no others look like it does.
I believe the cause is inadequate drainage. I 'engineered' my soil, using larger diameter stuff at the bottom, several handfuls of small gravel, then mixed two types soil for the upper layer. those types are; a compact, sandy, gritty one, and a loose, tiny gravel, 'dirt', with some type of seed hulls in it. it's really a nice mixture. it's 'firm', but still, kinda, 'loose', lol. it holds some moisture, but also, drains well.
however, I ran out of the looser type and some plants got a lot more of the heavier, denser, soil. those are retaining a lot more water, and not draining well; therefore, looking 'over watered' or 'nute burned'.
What did you do??
here's what I did...
first, I scooped all the driest soil from the surface into a cup. then, carefully excavated a 'well' all the way to the bottom of the pot, near the edge. it was about an inch/3-4cm in diameter. then, I cut a drinking straw, for a smaller pot, in half(for larger, deeper pots, I used a full sized drinking straw). (see photo #2) next, I made little cuts in the sides of the straw, but not all the way through, and inserted that into the well, the hole. then, I filled the hole with small pebbles, stones, and soil (non-moisture retaining type), to the top of the hole, but not covering the opening of the straw. Also, small stones were placed around the top of the straw, after filling the hole, to keep the straw vertical, prevent it from 'migrating' from watering or soil settling, and insure no debris will fall into it, clogging it up(see photo #3 & 4). the straw should remain clear all the way to the bottom, for as long as possible. eventually, it will fill with silt or whatever particles in the soil. it was rather tedious to do this to all the pots with that type of soil. I didn't do that to ones with great drainage/low moisture retention.
IT MUST BE DONE CAREFULLY, AWAY FROM WHERE ANY ROOTS ARE EXPECTED TO BE FOUND! (some roots may be hit anyway, don't worry, the benefits should outweigh any damage done. however, if you're hitting a lot of roots, a different location should be located. use a 'probe' before digging)
Why did you do that??
I used to do soil drilling, many years ago, lol, for several years. it was my job. understanding how the structure of soil works and, of course, how to 'drill' into it was necessary. I'm only going to explain how this thing I did works, not explain all about soil...so, don't worry! lol
we did this(placing a 'tube' down into soil, below the surface), on a much larger scale, to see how much water would/could, run off a slope or how much collected, say, in a ravine. by drilling a hole and inserting a long(30-50m+, PVC tube, which had lots of slots cut into the sides w/a hacksaw. then filling the remaining diameter of the hole with sand; course grain, or gravel, so no soil would clog the slots, and fill the tube. water passed through the 'filter' and filled the tube with water. we could then, at a later date, use an electric water sensor to measure how much water had drained to that spot, over a certain amount of time.
of course, in nature, there are few natural 'drains' and most water only seeps down to the water table, or to bedrock.
and, I'm not interested in measuring or collecting the water.
I'm only interested in 'draining' it, and potted plants usyally have that advantage, but some of mine don't.
What is the goal of doing that?
if incorrect or imperfect soil has been used, like in some of my pots. this technique should solve the problem without having to transplant using different, proper, soil, because water will naturally pursue the the course of least resistance. that course should be my 'well'. water will pass through the slots cut in the straw and drain out of the pot. some water will remain in the soil, of course, because its the 'wrong type', moisture retaining. because the 'well', and straw, go all the way to the bottom of the pot the 'over watering' problem and consequent nute burn should go away and not return!
also, because the 'well' is now full of warmer air, not cool, wet soil...it will dry the surrounding soil much faster, thereby drying the whole pot faster...and, oxygen, from the air, is provided, in much greater quantities, to the roots/soil around the well.
I'm hoping this solution will clear up accidental over watering/nute burn, caused by improper drainage and even, from just over loving them with too much water/nutes.
this technique should be good for any pot of soil, even properly potted ones, and I plan to do it to every pot, in all future grows, even though it takes a lot of time to do.
because of the excellent drainage properties and the extra oxygen supplied to the root system, this problem should not reoccur, unless the 'well' gets clogged, which is easy to remedy. just pull the straw up a little and poke a wire, or something thin, down there to clear it out.
Attachments
pass that over to 'where the hell...'
onenumcat
Well-Known Member
I just noticed, in my last post, the pic of the LR2...it's a girl. you can just see the pistils!
if you can't see it in that pic or don't know which is which, here's some close-ups.
and her sister is a girl too! two girls so far, sweet! only 24 more to go! LOL
if you can't see it in that pic or don't know which is which, here's some close-ups.
and her sister is a girl too! two girls so far, sweet! only 24 more to go! LOL
Attachments
onenumcat
Well-Known Member
ok guys, here's the lowdown on UVB lights. if you don't know anything about them...check it out. so, I still had one Mazar with one small bud left on it. it was in the flowering 'closet', under a 400w HPS...too impractical for just one bud!!!! two other things; I had already ordered 4 UVB cfls, Repti glo 10.0 and intended to use em during my current grow. and, I really needed that 430w ballast for the Aerolights, which needs 2 bulbs, for this design, to have dual MH for the veg!! I only have two ballasts.
so, now there are two, 26w UVB cfls, at a 45degree angle, above and to either side of that one bud, lol. been that way for about 3 days now. wow, only 52, total watts...probably, no more than 2000lm total, and that bud has really filled out, gotten much, much denser. (and, hopefully, THC has really increased as intended!)
if you thought about it, wanted to, or plan to...all I can say is "get some!"
P.S. the cfls are pretty cheap, for the 10% type...less than $20 US each. they come in lots of sizes/strengths, even full size flouros, up to 48in/4ft.
so, now there are two, 26w UVB cfls, at a 45degree angle, above and to either side of that one bud, lol. been that way for about 3 days now. wow, only 52, total watts...probably, no more than 2000lm total, and that bud has really filled out, gotten much, much denser. (and, hopefully, THC has really increased as intended!)
if you thought about it, wanted to, or plan to...all I can say is "get some!"
P.S. the cfls are pretty cheap, for the 10% type...less than $20 US each. they come in lots of sizes/strengths, even full size flouros, up to 48in/4ft.
onenumcat
Well-Known Member
you'll have to read post #89, on page 9...sry, it's a long read.
in short, it had bad drainage.
well, I've been harvesting off the Mazar for about a week...trying to stay stoned. it's the very last of my herb. and only one bud left. it's just a 2ft stem with 4 fan leaves, at the top, and a bud about 4cm tall, lol
onenumcat
Well-Known Member
ok, here's some more pics of my bad ass lil bitches, haha, or so I think!
(by the way, I'm pretty sure that weak little SSH is a gonner...still struggling to live, but nearly dead. oh well, there's more where that one came from!)
things done today; plucked the last bud from the Mazar, it is no more. reused the soil to transplant the two LR2's, into a large 10L planter(see photos). I also, placed a UVB bulb in very close proximity to those LR2, about 1-2cm, even though they're rated to penetrate up to 50cm, lol. and it may be too early to use UVB...I just don't know cuz it's my first time using them.
you'll see, just a little, heat/light damage, caused by my experimentation of finding the best Aerolights height. hopefully, that's been corrected.
soz ya know, the photos were taken in batches, meaning there will be a few views of one plant before moving on the other plant/s. watch for the lables, when you can read them, and if the 'pot' changes, it's a different plant.
enjoy these sexy, young ladies!
(by the way, I'm pretty sure that weak little SSH is a gonner...still struggling to live, but nearly dead. oh well, there's more where that one came from!)
things done today; plucked the last bud from the Mazar, it is no more. reused the soil to transplant the two LR2's, into a large 10L planter(see photos). I also, placed a UVB bulb in very close proximity to those LR2, about 1-2cm, even though they're rated to penetrate up to 50cm, lol. and it may be too early to use UVB...I just don't know cuz it's my first time using them.
you'll see, just a little, heat/light damage, caused by my experimentation of finding the best Aerolights height. hopefully, that's been corrected.
soz ya know, the photos were taken in batches, meaning there will be a few views of one plant before moving on the other plant/s. watch for the lables, when you can read them, and if the 'pot' changes, it's a different plant.
enjoy these sexy, young ladies!
Attachments
onenumcat
Well-Known Member
uh...about the previous posts photos, I make the last 9 pics to be dl's and viewed as a slideshow. if you don't wanna do that, just click em in raid succession, assuming your puter will draw that fast, and you'll get a slideshow 'effect', lol.
you may have noticed several JH have some weird, mutated leaves! this is caused by, I believe, either the prolonged exposure to the pre-germination, ethylene treatment, or due to the proportions of nutrients I'm providing, probably too much of something, but not enough to 'burn', yet.
you'll also see the JH are a little stretched, while the older, more mature ladies,
, are short n bushy, this was expected, even before the idea for adding my light mover, the amazing Aerolights-haha-they and the SSH will be LST'd. similar to this, http://www.indoormarijuanaseeds.com/advanced-indoor-cannabis-growing-techniqes/low-stress-training-lst-growing-marijuana.html. except, I'm going to switch to flowering stage on M. 1st no matter what.
Keep it real...to anyone whoz listening.
you may have noticed several JH have some weird, mutated leaves! this is caused by, I believe, either the prolonged exposure to the pre-germination, ethylene treatment, or due to the proportions of nutrients I'm providing, probably too much of something, but not enough to 'burn', yet.
you'll also see the JH are a little stretched, while the older, more mature ladies,
, are short n bushy, this was expected, even before the idea for adding my light mover, the amazing Aerolights-haha-they and the SSH will be LST'd. similar to this, http://www.indoormarijuanaseeds.com/advanced-indoor-cannabis-growing-techniqes/low-stress-training-lst-growing-marijuana.html. except, I'm going to switch to flowering stage on M. 1st no matter what.Keep it real...to anyone whoz listening.
onenumcat
Well-Known Member
I began LST today. I did the LR2, Medibud, SSH. also, a couple Mango and THCB, just for fun, but they don't really need it cuz they'll be short. MB and SSH are the tallest of all my strains. of course, the LR2's are very short, but I wanna get as much from them as possible, to keep me 'in supply'! that way, I won't molest the other little girls, lol!
not sure if I mentioned it before or not, but I have two UVB bulbs on the LR2's...they're not very bright, but the UV is awesome, hurts eyes and wreaks havoc on a digital camera!
not sure if I mentioned it before or not, but I have two UVB bulbs on the LR2's...they're not very bright, but the UV is awesome, hurts eyes and wreaks havoc on a digital camera!
Attachments
onenumcat
Well-Known Member
well, there are 6 different strains, planted in 3 stages, from Jan 12-23,(so I could harvest over a long period) with 4-5 different flowering requirements.
LR2, 6wk flowering-9wks total, from seed.(of course, it don't matter what ya do with these...auto-flowering)
Medibud, 8-9wks
THC Bomb, 7-10 wks
Super Silver Haze, 10+wks
Mango, 6-10wks (?)
Jack herrer, 7-10wks
you'll see buds in a few weeks, the LR2's are both girls, they got 'ethylized', as well as all the others, except Medibud (feminized).
then you'll see more in mid March. harvest will begin mid April to June 1, except for LR2, harvest in mid March.
thanks for stopping by...
LR2, 6wk flowering-9wks total, from seed.(of course, it don't matter what ya do with these...auto-flowering)
Medibud, 8-9wks
THC Bomb, 7-10 wks
Super Silver Haze, 10+wks
Mango, 6-10wks (?)
Jack herrer, 7-10wks
you'll see buds in a few weeks, the LR2's are both girls, they got 'ethylized', as well as all the others, except Medibud (feminized).
then you'll see more in mid March. harvest will begin mid April to June 1, except for LR2, harvest in mid March.
thanks for stopping by...