5 weeks veg, no nodes at all. Need help!

first tiwreck in soil using two 23 watt cfl lights.
I've been vegging for about 5 weeks and just changed the lights from 24/0 to 18/6 four days ago.
My plant is about 13 inches tall and is very skinny with about 5 sets of leaves but no nodes at all.
I don't think this is very common but if someone could help me out is really appreciate it.
PS here is a picture of it.IMAG0154.jpgPLANT.jpg
 

$waGgEr

Active Member
hm..looks like you lights are too fare away from the plant. thus the plant is streching out for the light...CLFs can be as close as one inch from the leafs.. also with CLFs or T5s i like to do more lighting on the side of the plants or horizontal lighting...this encurages the plant to strech outward not upward
 

doby mick

Active Member
Everyone has to start somewhere just stay possitive and do some reading about the life cycle of cannabis plants. I would start by getting a good quality soil I.E. Plagron Bat mix is what im using and have found that there are enough nutes in this soil to keep your plant going for the first 8 weeks so all you have todo is water them, as i noticed that your plant is burnt with nutes thats what all that yellow brown colour all round the edges of your leaves, i have found that with nutes less is more, if you know what i mean, if on nutes bottle it says give your plant 10mil per litre of water then go with 8 mil per litre as i have found thats the mistake most growers make, i hope that this has been of some help good luck in your quest to grow ganja.
 

scroglodyte

Well-Known Member
looks kinda hot. transplant to neutral mix, and feed with a dilute general fert. keep cfl bulb surface one inch, or less, from plant. this one may be a wash. we'll see. do some homework, as these folks said. it really will help. its nice to have a grow planned out, down to the smallest detail, BEFORE you ever crack a seed.
 

doby mick

Active Member
Everyone says that and must addmit did think that myself about being to hot for seedlins but have been doing samething for past 2 years and havent had a problemwith it , infact i think that starting my seeds off in such a hot mix as it gets them ready for the onset of nutes
 

scroglodyte

Well-Known Member
genos are funny, and Sativas/doms are even more finicky and fickle. throw 3 different genos in a hot soil, one turns brown, curls up and dies, and the other two are fine. who knows...that's why i feel all apprentice growers should use a neutral mix, and learn how to feed.
 

shipoopi86

Member
aside from the presence of nute burn as seen from the discoloring and curling of your fan leaves, your plant is also stretching quite badly as a result of the poor lighting. besides fixing these issues it would take a lot of height for the horizontal to catch up with the vertical, (at least 5ft if its already @ 13inches) without that commitment of space this plant would not be worth growing imho.

i've learned that as long as any plant is green in early veg it can still be grown well enough to produce decent bud.
 

Clonex

Well-Known Member
Over fertilized and Locked out ,
Poor light , not enough of it ,
The road to recovery will be long , it may not recover if you feed it again,
It's easy done first time out ....:joint:
 
There must have been a bunch of nutes in the soil because I've never direclty fed it any.
I have a total of four feet of space if that's enough. Is it possible for me to just start flowering now and get it done then do some research and get new tools so ill be better prepared next time?
And no I started it off in a solo cup.
 

skunkd0c

Well-Known Member
you should do alot more reading up get some more lights, then when you're ready start again this thing is a waste of your time

peace :)
 
1) too heavy on the nutes.
2) not enough light, and too far away coz it's stretching out too much.
3) you need "daylight" cfl bulbs to flower with that are in the 6500k range. "cool white" bulbs in the 3000k range aren't what the plant prefers to flower in.
4) the other comments about light placement and choice of cannabis strains are waaaay important factors too....take their advice, it's dead-on!!!

5) if it were me, I'd toss it out and start another one coz it's already stretched out, stunted, nute burned, and doesn't have a very good future...

6) plan out the environment better next time with closer, proper bandwidth cfl's and chill out on the nutes and watering schedule.

7) remember next time.....she's a WEED and doesn't need to be over-coddled.....when they are in soil I generally don't add nutes unless it looks like it's deficient on something. Just water in between feedings, and water only when it needs it.

8) after all, we are growing the cannabis plant for it's beautiful gifts, Delta-9 THC and the other active cannabinols. Scientific proof says the only things that increase the THC content of the cannabis plant are sunlight, manganese, and STRESS.

I emphasize STRESS because in an indoor growing environment, we are only able to MIMIC sunlight, so THAT affects potency.
We are only able to ADD the needed manganese and kinda GUESS at it when doing indoor grows in soil. The plant doesn't have it freely available in rich soil like it would have in a natural outdoor environment....so THAT affects potency.
Again, we are only able to MIMIC the conditions cannabis prefers when growing her in an indoor soil environment....

One thing we CAN control (not just mimic!) is STRESS!!!

We can make those girls WORK FOR IT so they don't get fat and lazy, and lay off on the unnecessarily heavy and hot food/watering schedule.
We can do supercropping on the branches to induce stress, and scarring, and the result is a "knuckle" that forms with a larger capillary system than before.
That means more nutrient gets to those branches, and the stress reaction to the supercropping stimulates "recovery" growth.
We can do low stress training to make the flowering branches closer to the cfl bulbs (like an INCH if they can take it!) and that increases the "individual" intake of available light to the flowering branches only.... After all, we aren't trying to grow big leaves, we're trying to grow big BUDS!

Let the cfl and the bud branches hog up that light, and ignore the big fan leaves. Let the plant tap into it's own leaves and use up it's reserves. Leave only a few for the plant to have a few good fan leaves to gather excess light and keep the metabolism up.... The resulting stress will increase potency every time.
For flowering, you need to get 3,000K range "cool white" cfl's. for the vegetation (growth) stage you need 6500K "daylight" range cfl's. Keep those lights as close as you can (1-2 inches away) and don't be skimpy.....give each bud branch it's own cfl for optimum potency and size.

About 2 weeks before I harvest a potted soil plant I stop feeding it nutes, and give it a dose of blackstrap molasses once.
(the low sulfur stuff only....1 tsp. in a gallon of water is fine) it's got iron and sugar the plant can eat if it needs it. It also has manganese, which BUDS LOVE!
After that I try not to water them ever again....

Forcing the ladies to go into "survival mode" by stopping the feeding/watering schedule causes the plants reproductive organ (the buds) to get PRIORITY.
When she thinks she's gonna die, she tries to do ANYTHING to reproduce....that includes INCREASING potency, aroma and resin production to entice pollenating critters and protect the reproductive organ (the buds) from frost and destructive insects.

SUNLIGHT
MAGNESIUM
STRESS!!!....STRESS!!! STRESS!!!

Try to mimic and re-create those conditions as best as you can for the flowering cycle and you'll have better potency.
Of course by "stress" I don't mean a wilted, half dead beyond-recovery condition...give them love.....but TOUGH LOVE!!!
And they will reward you by turning out strong-willed independent ladies with potency to remember them by :)
 
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