5' x 2' LED Strip light setup, Pros please straighten my head

Bignutes

Bignutes

Well-Known Member
I'd go with the vestas, the advantage is flexibility, veg at 5000k and flower at 2700k 90 cri and a real good price. I get really good results with these. I'd probably go with 12 strips in that space and being that your a fabricator you might not want to go this route but you can do it without welding by blowing holes in angle and using ready rod.

See this as an example:

Led light design - TRAHMAS

My light design as follows: TRAHMAS - Threaded rod aluminum heatsink modular adjustment simulator 30 sq ft space The light: 960 watts Lighting schedule is the "sun" (provided by my light) rises and sets, so my sunrise or sunset I can go down to about 2800k, rises to about 3600k by midday for...
www.rollitup.org
 
Moflow

Moflow

Well-Known Member
Cboyhehe said:
Sorry to be a pain Moflow but whats the difference between these 2? the L06 and L04 stand for?
Click to expand...
Its the number of diodes in each strip, more in the L06 than L04
L04 : If 1,000mA , L06 : If 1,430mA , L09 : If 1,000mA tp 55℃
L04 64 diodes 3960 lumens, L06 88 diodes 5630 lumens, L09 128 diodes 7910 lumens
Have a browse through the pdf below for all the info
 

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Cboyhehe

Member
Bignutes said:
I'd go with the vestas, the advantage is flexibility, veg at 5000k and flower at 2700k 90 cri and a real good price. I get really good results with these. I'd probably go with 12 strips in that space and being that your a fabricator you might not want to go this route but you can do it without welding by blowing holes in angle and using ready rod.

See this as an example:

Led light design - TRAHMAS

My light design as follows: TRAHMAS - Threaded rod aluminum heatsink modular adjustment simulator 30 sq ft space The light: 960 watts Lighting schedule is the "sun" (provided by my light) rises and sets, so my sunrise or sunset I can go down to about 2800k, rises to about 3600k by midday for...
www.rollitup.org
Click to expand...
Hmmm yes they do look pretty good with the option to change temperature for different stages. Im guessing from the specs i just looked at. Their Lumens/watt efficiency is about 130lm/w compared to some samsung strips of like 205lm/w. This is due to their twin temperature chips on the board?

Does anyone else agree that the vestas are a top pick for start to finish grow light?
 
Bignutes

Bignutes

Well-Known Member
No it's because the vestas shift the red peak over to 630 nm instead of 600 nm and have a higher far red and ir than most other strips. This makes it a better flowering strip too. The higher red and ir will help with leaf temps and using that energy to increase the metabolic rate. Don't get me wrong they are not hps but it should help. Lum don't represent or capture this because like the saying lumens are for humans not plants.
 
C

Cboyhehe

Member
Bignutes said:
No it's because the vestas shift the red peak over to 630 nm instead of 600 nm and have a higher far red and ir than most other strips. This makes it a better flowering strip too. The higher red and ir will help with leaf temps and using that energy to increase the metabolic rate. Don't get me wrong they are not hps but it should help. Lum don't represent or capture this because like the saying lumens are for humans not plants.
Click to expand...
So technically their PPFD/PAR values would be higher than the samsungs etc is what you're getting at?

Okay, so from my understanding is that far red causes internodal stretch. I was trying to avoid alot of far red in whatever lights i buy because i dont have much vertical height in my canopy area so was trying to keep them dense. Am I right in that train of thought or has the interwebs led me astray?
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
In my opinion and experience, a 1:1 ratio of 5000K and 3000/2700K is just way too much Blue. Yeah the vestas are neat, but are you going to ever really use just the 5000k channel for veg? And if you use them both in flower... Just why?
I'd say just get strips in 2700k and get the same benefits
 
Bignutes

Bignutes

Well-Known Member
Cboyhehe said:
So technically their PPFD/PAR values would be higher than the samsungs etc is what you're getting at?

Okay, so from my understanding is that far red causes internodal stretch. I was trying to avoid alot of far red in whatever lights i buy because i dont have much vertical height in my canopy area so was trying to keep them dense. Am I right in that train of thought or has the interwebs led me astray?
Click to expand...
I don't know about higher than, but better than the 130 suggests. You can run both channels for 3850 during the first three weeks of stretch during flower and then switch to 2700k when most stretch is done the rest of the way for a tight plant with rock hard nugs.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Bignutes said:
I don't know about higher than, but better than the 130 suggests. You can run both channels for 3850 during the first three weeks of stretch during flower and then switch to 2700k when most stretch is done the rest of the way for a tight plant with rock hard nugs.
Click to expand...
Why buy strips with double rows that you'll hardly use one of the rows with? I say if you're buying double row strips. Get H influx at 2700k and buy a few 5000k if you want to have that CCT for some reason.
 
Bignutes

Bignutes

Well-Known Member
I use both rows everyday of every grow but i am on a sunrise sunset lighting scheme. If not on a sunrise sunset scheme it's still applicable, use with either 2700k, 3850k, or 5000k to control stretch and morphological expression. With only a 4 foot height I would want the ability to veg with 5000 k.
 
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