A few thoughts on reducing "the stretch"

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Durbanplaya

Well-Known Member
DaveCoulier you beat me there, found the same link just before this post.

Thanks for the info UB, going to check my nutes and decide if I need a change. Hopefully this will resolve my issues, so far there has been only 2 white widows that haven't stretched :(
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Megalith said:
Hi there UB,
I have seen in some of your other post that you recommend dyna pro for vegatation in hydroponic systems. You seem to like this ratio they use. I wanted to ask you what your thoughts were on other Jacks Classic products? Specifically, the orchid special with the 30-10-10 ratio. Also the all purpose 20-20-20. I'm using a drip system to veg my kids and appreciate the cost of Jacks line of products. I'm a new grower and learner. Appreciate your wisdom.
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You really need to have a water analysis and use a food that works best with its profile. Having said that, since Dyna-Gro is complete, I'd use it for hydro before using Jacks. Jacks is really designed for soil, it contains less minerals by design. Soil should provide for alot of those minerals.

Durbanplaya, interesting concepts, eh? Bottom line, if you want lush growth, use enough N and plenty of P. If you want compact growth, do the opposite keeping in mind that yields will be determined by the amount of leaf mass.
 
Megalith

Megalith

Well-Known Member
Great. Thanks UB. You said you prefer dyna over jacks for hydro. Is there a brand you like more than dynagro for hydro? How would one go about getting a water analyisis? From the results of the test, how do I choose a food corresponding with the results levels?
I've already purchase Jacks 20-20-20- n the 1-3-2 bloom. I thought they would be fine according to other post. Neverless, help get this noob flowing in the right direction UB. I have a bunch of stretched seedlings my buddy left in a clone tray for a month too long. I have new growth and finally getting color back I am using the 20-20-20 @ 400 PPM. I dont mean to sound redundant UB, I just want to get this done correclty the 1st time around. Thanks you for your time.
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Megalith said:
Great. Thanks UB. You said you prefer dyna over jacks for hydro. Is there a brand you like more than dynagro for hydro? How would one go about getting a water analyisis? From the results of the test, how do I choose a food corresponding with the results levels?
I've already purchase Jacks 20-20-20- n the 1-3-2 bloom. I thought they would be fine according to other post. Neverless, help get this noob flowing in the right direction UB. I have a bunch of stretched seedlings my buddy left in a clone tray for a month too long. I have new growth and finally getting color back I am using the 20-20-20 @ 400 PPM. I dont mean to sound redundant UB, I just want to get this done correclty the 1st time around. Thanks you for your time.
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Please, this topic is about stretching, long internodes. For learning the basics there is nothing like Mel Frank's Guide or doing some research.

Good luck,
UB
 
EsmeWeatherwax

EsmeWeatherwax

Member
Hello UB, thanks for another great thread, your teachings have helped us out a great deal. Although thanks to you we now have a shelf full of unused AN nutes, we switched to Jacks and are very happy with the results so far, just the change in nutes has reduced the strech and no yellowing leaves late into flower.
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
EsmeWeatherwax said:
Hello UB, thanks for another great thread, your teachings have helped us out a great deal. Although thanks to you we now have a shelf full of unused AN nutes, we switched to Jacks and are very happy with the results so far, just the change in nutes has reduced the strech and no yellowing leaves late into flower.
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Glad to hear it. Plant nutrition can not be changed, no matter how much folks want to believe in the "new" methods. Salts are salts, and weed is weed.
 
Mcgician

Mcgician

Well-Known Member
Great pointers once again UB. Thanks! I'm going to be going with a more simplified nutritional feeding program like the one I started six months ago and got great results from. I am going to try the Humboldt Gravity product though.
 
W

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
Uncle Ben said:
You really need to have a water analysis and use a food that works best with its profile. Having said that, since Dyna-Gro is complete, I'd use it for hydro before using Jacks. Jacks is really designed for soil, it contains less minerals by design. Soil should provide for alot of those minerals.
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So, if I'm figuring right, a soil less mix (I make my own, but close to promix), should be figured closer to hydro requirements than 'real' dirt?

I've used Peters for years, but would like to give the Dyna-Gro a shot, especially the Foilage Pro.

Getting the water analysis done now. Found out the hard way it's not even close to what we had in SoFla.:roll:

Wet
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Wetdog said:
So, if I'm figuring right, a soil less mix (I make my own, but close to promix), should be figured closer to hydro requirements than 'real' dirt?

I've used Peters for years, but would like to give the Dyna-Gro a shot, especially the Foilage Pro.

Getting the water analysis done now. Found out the hard way it's not even close to what we had in SoFla.:roll:

Wet
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Plant foods are designed for various mediums. If you're doing a soil-less or hydro, you need a more complete food as opposed to something like Peters which has the understanding that soil is providing some of the elements.
 
Drr

Drr

Well-Known Member
makes sense.. too much nitro throwing the green growth coupled with too much phos helping throw the energy... and there's not enough potash to harden it off..


Adnd i've been reading alot about this jack fellow..

I may try his all purpose 20-20-20 and the bloom booster...
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
i81two said:
So you would reccomend Jacks 20-20-20 for veg and flower or switch to Jacks Blossem Booster 10-30-20 with the higher P for flower ?
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And what good is the higher P if the plant doesn't require it? It's not plant food that produces abundant flowers, it's leaves. So....you give the plant whatever it takes to produce and maintain the most amount of foliage going into harvest.

UB
 
i81two

i81two

Well-Known Member
Thats why i ask. So if all u need is the 20-20-20 why is the bloom Booster or whatever it is called even made.
 
mrduke

mrduke

Well-Known Member
Uncle Ben do you run foliage-pro all the way thru? If so do you adjust the amounts in flower/veg. I've order some but cant find much info on itbut it sure seems like the way to go
 
deflator

deflator

Active Member
i81two said:
Thats why i ask. So if all u need is the 20-20-20 why is the bloom Booster or whatever it is called even made.
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A 1-1-1 will get you through to the end of flowering. It provides every major nutrient.

Is it optimal? No. Plants have different needs at different times and its all about reading what those are and providing it.

mrduke said:
Uncle Ben do you run foliage-pro all the way thru? If so do you adjust the amounts in flower/veg. I've order some but cant find much info on itbut it sure seems like the way to go
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Most people transition between veg and bloom formulas slowly when you start flower. Some food makers even supply feeding charts you can get an idea from, but don't use them exclusively.
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
i81two said:
Thats why i ask. So if all u need is the 20-20-20 why is the bloom Booster or whatever it is called even made.
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It's a marketing gimmick mainly. If P is needed for good flowering, then more P means more flowers, right? It's all about the money.

mrduke said:
Uncle Ben do you run foliage-pro all the way thru? If so do you adjust the amounts in flower/veg. I've order some but cant find much info on itbut it sure seems like the way to go
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I have, depends on what's going on with the plant and the soil.

UB
 
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