A perfect cure every time

ZeeeDoc

Well-Known Member
Experience- It didnt work for me and I feel that is to wet to go into jars I tried a few times not just once. Same problem as obijohn.. Terrible dark discoloration, loss of smell, and little bag appeal. I kinda think the rh in my house is to high for this and they NEVER dry. When I open my jars and 65-70% rh goes in there, they just get wetter. I like to get them nice and dry hanging the whole plant, trim, and then cure. The texture (moisture content) and smell go right where I want it during the cure. It also seems to take less time. Anyone having a large harvest would need a rack of rh meters and I just dont see that being practical. BTW thanks guys for opening this thread hopefully simond can now help some people understand this process better. For me and my drying this is where the cure starts and I quote from Simon "60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing." Leave them dry until the stem cracks when you bend it. I think the post is a little confusing as it first says start curing before the stem snaps and it is still pliable but then its followed up by curing starts when product is at 60-65% and STEM SNAPS.

Hopefully I didnt offend anyone from this post. Just trying to learn. Also I hope mature people can overlook previous debates and give good solid information with out the ridiculing.
It’s also my experience too. Hanging the whole plant to dry which takes roughly 10 days the small stems snap, i trim then into jars and the buds are dry sticky, stinking and in the cure zone, burp once every couple of weeks. Too much faffing about putting buds in jar when there too moist. I do agree hygrometer s help so people know where there at but after countless grows should be able to sense the feel of the bud whether it’s dry enough.
 

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
It’s also my experience too. Hanging the whole plant to dry which takes roughly 10 days the small stems snap, i trim then into jars and the buds are dry sticky, stinking and in the cure zone, burp once every couple of weeks. Too much faffing about putting buds in jar when there too moist. I do agree hygrometer s help so people know where there at but after countless grows should be able to sense the feel of the bud whether it’s dry enough.
It is a feel thing. And sound. Easy enough to learn. Stems must snap sharply. Not crack and bend. Buds are safe to jar then. And few pinches to be sure always goog. Also, do not jar a whole branch at once. Only the smaller dry stuff. This where most go astray. Jar as every size dries. Not en mass. And I wouldn't be able to get my cure without a hygrometer. LOL.
 

Brickie74

Member
This is the way I’ve been curing my harvest for the last four years. I’ve read many, many articles and I have tried many different ways to cure product. This seems to be the best way to do it. Haven’t had any problems with mold or any other of the most common issues when curing with this method.
 

SlothKing

Member
Heh, it's as if folks would rater argue than grow lots of bud. When I started out, I identified a number of growers I wanted to learn from, shut my mouth and listened for a hell of a long time, while putting in the hours in my own garden. Here, the less experience you have, the louder you are. No thanks.

Simon
Thank you
 

elfo777

Well-Known Member
If buds are at 62% when you jar them, do you still have to burp the jars? Or just leave it as it is?
 

Metle

Member
My process has been simple and always with good results. I let them hang for about a week RH 60ish temp 65-70, cut and trim, throw in a mason jar and burp a few times per day for first 2 weeks. If RH gets too high I use a digital 5 gallon dehumidifier.
 

Boreal Curing

Well-Known Member
The last time I manually burped a jar was about 20 years ago. My only problem with burping Masson jars is the bud gets stuck in the jars, and my hands don't fit so I have to use a spoon or something to get the bud out. On top of that, I need to stay at home and burp a hundred or so jars every night. On top of that, I've fallen asleep and forgot to close the jars. I even forgot to open the frigging things for a couple days.

My first automated burping system was a small cooler with a simple fan. Then I added a timer, then, then, then.... to make a long story short, it took a long time to get it right. I even had to ditch the apparently "pure silicon" aquarium air lines because no matter which ones I tried, they all off gas. You can smell the plasticizers. One of my clients (a doctor) told me to use medical grade silicon. Eureka. So everything is FDA/HC medical grade now. It's expensive, but not as much as losing a crop to mold or a foreign flavor taste. Besides, I love being able to split for a weekend without worrying.
 
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MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
The last time I manually burped a jar was about 20 years ago. My only problem with burping Masson jars is the bud gets stuck in the jars, my hands don't fit so I have to use a spoon or something to get the bud out. On top of that, I need to stay at home and burp a hundred or so jars every night. On top of that, I've fallen asleep and forgot to close the jars. I even forgot to open the frigging things for a couple days.

My first automated burping system was a small cooler with a simple fan. Then I added a timer, then, then, then.... to make a long story short, it took a long time to get it right. I even had to ditch the apparently "pure silicon" aquarium air lines because no matter which ones I tried, they all off gas. You can smell the plasticizers. One of my clients (a doctor) told me to use medical grade silicon. Eureka. So everything is FDA/HC medical grade now. It's expensive, but not as much as losing a crop to mold. Besides, I love being able to split for a weekend without worrying.
You are aware that a simple $0.35 fish tank one way in line check vale inserted through the lid of a mason jar eliminates opening. And one in each direction will allow air exchange. I do less than a 100 jars at a time. But not much.

Love the passion. Fail to understand the added the added cost. Good for noobs though. Best wishes on your success and quality of life.

Peace.
 

Boreal Curing

Well-Known Member
You are aware that a simple $0.35 fish tank one way in line check vale inserted through the lid of a mason jar eliminates opening. And one in each direction will allow air exchange. I do less than a 100 jars at a time. But not much.

Love the passion. Fail to understand the added the added cost. Good for noobs though. Best wishes on your success and quality of life.

Peace.
Like this?
1622822462688.png1622822565809.png
But there's a bit more to it. You need fitted grommets for the line and check valve, the pump size and airline perforations have to be the proper size for the vessel other wise you get mold, dried bud, or blown lines. But I know what you mean.

Here's a little test. Perforate a foot of new airline, put it in your jar and seal it. Open it the next day and have a smell. If the chemicals don't bother you, then it's not an issue. If they do and it's all you have,I suggest you cut your lines, perforate them, hook them up to your pump and let it run for a few weeks. I've managed to get rid of the smell, but I don't know if the off gassing continues after that.

Edit: The check valves stop the air exchange unless the jar is pressurized to at least 1.9 psi. You need a minimum 2.5x air change rate (in small vessels, and more in larger ones) to properly burp the jars so a pump is needed. Hi end systems use nickle co2 check valves because of the higher air pressures.
 
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MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
Like this?
View attachment 4916165View attachment 4916166
But there's a bit more to it. You need fitted grommets for the line and check valve, the pump size and airline perforations have to be the proper size for the vessel other wise you get mold, dried bud, or blown lines. But I know what you mean.

Here's a little test. Perforate a foot of new airline, put it in your jar and seal it. Open it the next day and have a smell. If the chemicals don't bother you, then it's not an issue. If they do and it's all you have,I suggest you cut your lines, perforate them, hook them up to your pump and let it run for a few weeks. I've managed to get rid of the smell, but I don't know if the off gassing continues after that.
Nope not here. The inlet would only be the valve. And proper drill bit allows for press fit. Who puts chemical releasing items in their jars? Not challenging you besides to see the issues many will have with your idea. You can't progress with out scrutiny and varied impressions.

Honestly not a fight. A point of view is all. Apologies if I ruffled your feathers. Poorly worded FYI on my behalf.
 

Boreal Curing

Well-Known Member
Nope not here. The inlet would only be the valve. And proper drill bit allows for press fit. Who puts chemical releasing items in their jars? Not challenging you besides to see the issues many will have with your idea. You can't progress with out scrutiny and varied impressions.

Honestly not a fight. A point of view is all. Apologies if I ruffled your feathers. Poorly worded FYI on my behalf.
No problem and no offense taken. I don't view it as a fight at all. Just a clarification.

No one puts chemicals in their jars, but unless they're medical grade, normal aquarium airlines/tubing will off-gas and release a chemical smell. As for using a drill? Nothing wrong with it. We use a mechanical punch for a clean hole otherwise the grommet won't seat properly. Our aim if for zero air exchange and that's the only way to make sure.
 

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
No problem and no offense taken. I don't view it as a fight at all. Just a clarification.

No one puts chemicals in their jars, but unless they're medical grade, normal aquarium airlines/tubing will off-gas and release a chemical smell.
A bit beyond advanced on both fronts. LOL. And just rattling your cage hoping for further thought on your behalf. I wish I had a kit when I started. Hard lessons for few seasons.

Again peace and props for your proper response and demeanor.
 

GreenhouseGreen

Well-Known Member
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