doggyd
Active Member
I understand somewhat but not really. But if you mixing all together why does it matter. Im confused and have to read up on how to read the number and what do they mean and how to use at correct times@!
Advanced Nutrients in Fox Farm Soil!
- Thread starter doggyd
- Start date
doggyd
Active Member
I found the answer to my own question with a quick google search!
This term refers to the ratio of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) in fertilizers.
It is always expressed as N-P-K. For example, a fertilizer labeled as 24-6-6 has 24% nitrogen, 6% phosphorus, and 6% potassium
In this example, the remaining 64% of the fertilizer is comprised of inert matter
This term refers to the ratio of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) in fertilizers.
It is always expressed as N-P-K. For example, a fertilizer labeled as 24-6-6 has 24% nitrogen, 6% phosphorus, and 6% potassium
In this example, the remaining 64% of the fertilizer is comprised of inert matter
doggyd
Active Member
I found this little thing while seaching on the net, Helpful!
Understanding N-P-K
Regardless of its type, any fertilizer you buy will come with information about the nutrients it contains. Prominently featured will be the N-P-K ratio, the percentage the product contains by volume of nitrogen (chemical symbol N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). A 16-16-16 fertilizer, for example, contains 16% nitrogen, 16% phosphorus, and 16% potassium. A 25-4-2 formulation contains 25% nitrogen, 4% phosphorus, and 2% potassium.
All fertilizers contain at least one of these components; if any is missing, the ratio will show a zero for that nutrient (a 12-0-0 fertilizer contains nitrogen but no phosphorus or potassium, for instance). Boxed, bagged, and bottled products display the N-P-K ratio on the label. For fertilizers sold in bulk from self-serve bins, the ratio is noted on the bin; for future reference, be sure to write the information on the bags you fill and bring home.
COMPLETE AND INCOMPLETE FERTILIZERS
A fertilizer containing all three major nutrients is called a complete fertilizer; a product that supplies only one or two of them is an incomplete fertilizer. Using a complete fertilizer for every garden purpose seems sensible, but in fact it isn't always the best choice. If the soil contains sufficient phosphorus and potassium and is deficient only in nitrogen (as is often the case), you can save money by using an incomplete fertilizer that provides nitrogen alone (ammonium sulfate, for example). In some instances, complete fertilizers can even harm a plant. Exotic, bright-blossomed proteas, for example, will not tolerate excess phosphorus: they "glut" themselves on it and then die.
The inexpensive soil test kits sold at garden centers can give you a rough idea of the nutrients available in various parts of your garden; for a more detailed evaluation, you may want to pay for a professional analysis. By revealing which nutrients may be lacking, such tests can help you choose an appropriate fertilizer.
GENERAL AND SPECIAL-PURPOSE FERTILIZERS
The various products labeled "general-purpose fertilizers" contain either equal amounts of each major nutrient (N-P-K ratio 12-12-12, for example) or a slightly higher percentage of nitrogen than of phosphorus and potassium (such as a 12-8-6 product). Such fertilizers are intended to meet most plants' general requirements throughout the growing season.
Special-purpose fertilizers, on the other hand, are formulated for specific needs. They're aimed at the gardener who wants a particular combination of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium for certain plants or garden situations. These fertilizers are of three general types.
One type, used during the period of active growth, contains largely nitrogen. Such products, with N-P-K ratios such as 16-6-4, are often used in spring, when you want to encourage lush growth or green up your lawn.
Another type is meant to stimulate root growth, stem vigor, and flower and fruit production. Fertilizers of this sort contain little nitrogen and higher levels of phosphorus and potassium; the N-P-K ratio may be 3-20-20, for example. These products are applied at different times and in different ways, depending on what you want to achieve. When you prepare a new planting area, for instance, you'll work a dry granular fertilizer of this sort deeply into the soil, putting the phosphorus and potassium where roots can absorb them. The nutrients help strengthen the new plants' developing stems and encourage the growth of a dense network of roots.
To promote flower production and increase the yields of fruit or vegetable crops, you apply the same sort of fertilizer to established plants after they've completed their first flush of growth. You can use either dry granules, scratching them lightly into the soil, or apply a liquid formula with a watering can or a hose-end applicator.
A third group of fertilizers is designed for use on specific plants. These feature the N-P-K ratios determined to elicit the best performance from the particular plant, as well as other elements proven valuable to that plant. Such fertilizers are named according to the plant they're intended to nourish. Especially useful are formulas for citrus trees and acid-loving plants such as camellia and rhododendron.
Recently, other such plant-specific fertilizers have appeared on nursery shelves, each claiming to be the best choice for a certain plant or group of plants; you may see several sorts of "tomato food" or "flower fertilizer," for example. The jury is still out on the benefit of many of these products, and you will often do just as well to use a general-purpose type. The main distinction is often the price: the "special" formulas are usually costlier than general-purpose kinds.
SYNTHETIC AND ORGANIC FERTILIZERS
Some fertilizers are manufactured in the laboratory, while others are derived from natural sources. Each has certain advantages.
Synthetic fertilizers. These products are derived from the chemical sources listed on the product label. They're faster acting than organic kinds and provide nutrients to plants quickly, making them a good choice for aiding plants in severe distress from nutrient deficiencies. Synthetic fertilizers are sold both as dry granules to be applied to the soil and as dry or liquid concentrates to be diluted in water before application. In dry form, they're usually less expensive than their organic counterparts. In some of the dry granular types (those known as controlled-release fertilizers), the fertilizer granules are coated with a permeable substance; with each watering, a bit of fertilizer diffuses through the coating and into the soil. Depending on the particular product, the nutrient release may last anywhere from 3 to 8 months.
Some synthetic products are packaged for special purposes; you'll find spikes and tabs for container plants, for example.
Note that synthetic fertilizers usually do not contain any of the secondary or micronutrients ― but in most cases, these nutrients are already present in the soil. If a test indicates that some are missing, look for a fertilizer that provides them.
Organic fertilizers. Organic fertilizers are derived from the remains of living organisms; blood meal, bone meal, cottonseed meal, and fish emulsion are just a few of the many available types. Organic fertilizers release their nutrients slowly: rather than dissolving in water, they're broken down by bacteria in the soil, providing nutrients as they decompose. Because these fertilizers act slowly, it's almost impossible to kill lawns or plants by applying too much (overdosing with synthetics, in contrast, can have potentially fatal results). Some manufacturers combine a variety of organic products in one package, then offer them for general-purpose or specialized use.
Two commonly used soil amendments ― compost and manure ― have some nutritive value and can be used as part of an organic fertilizing program. The N-P-K ratio of compost varies from 1.5-.5-1 to 3.5-1-2. Chicken manure's N-P-K ratio ranges from 3-2.5-1.5 to 6-4-3; that of steer manure is usually a little less than 1-1-1.
Fertilizers containing seaweed are gaining favor with many gardeners. Besides providing nutrients in a form immediately available to plants, seaweed contains mannitol, a compound that enhances absorption of nutrients already in the soil, and various hormones that stimulate plant growth. And the carbohydrates in seaweed break down rapidly, nourishing soil-dwelling bacteria that fix nitrogen and make it available to plant roots.
Mixed with water and sprayed directly on foliage, seaweed-containing fertilizers can have dramatic effects in a matter of days. Plants green up and begin to produce new growth, and those that are weak stemmed and straggly straighten up and become stronger.
Understanding N-P-K
Regardless of its type, any fertilizer you buy will come with information about the nutrients it contains. Prominently featured will be the N-P-K ratio, the percentage the product contains by volume of nitrogen (chemical symbol N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). A 16-16-16 fertilizer, for example, contains 16% nitrogen, 16% phosphorus, and 16% potassium. A 25-4-2 formulation contains 25% nitrogen, 4% phosphorus, and 2% potassium.
All fertilizers contain at least one of these components; if any is missing, the ratio will show a zero for that nutrient (a 12-0-0 fertilizer contains nitrogen but no phosphorus or potassium, for instance). Boxed, bagged, and bottled products display the N-P-K ratio on the label. For fertilizers sold in bulk from self-serve bins, the ratio is noted on the bin; for future reference, be sure to write the information on the bags you fill and bring home.
COMPLETE AND INCOMPLETE FERTILIZERS
A fertilizer containing all three major nutrients is called a complete fertilizer; a product that supplies only one or two of them is an incomplete fertilizer. Using a complete fertilizer for every garden purpose seems sensible, but in fact it isn't always the best choice. If the soil contains sufficient phosphorus and potassium and is deficient only in nitrogen (as is often the case), you can save money by using an incomplete fertilizer that provides nitrogen alone (ammonium sulfate, for example). In some instances, complete fertilizers can even harm a plant. Exotic, bright-blossomed proteas, for example, will not tolerate excess phosphorus: they "glut" themselves on it and then die.
The inexpensive soil test kits sold at garden centers can give you a rough idea of the nutrients available in various parts of your garden; for a more detailed evaluation, you may want to pay for a professional analysis. By revealing which nutrients may be lacking, such tests can help you choose an appropriate fertilizer.
GENERAL AND SPECIAL-PURPOSE FERTILIZERS
The various products labeled "general-purpose fertilizers" contain either equal amounts of each major nutrient (N-P-K ratio 12-12-12, for example) or a slightly higher percentage of nitrogen than of phosphorus and potassium (such as a 12-8-6 product). Such fertilizers are intended to meet most plants' general requirements throughout the growing season.
Special-purpose fertilizers, on the other hand, are formulated for specific needs. They're aimed at the gardener who wants a particular combination of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium for certain plants or garden situations. These fertilizers are of three general types.
One type, used during the period of active growth, contains largely nitrogen. Such products, with N-P-K ratios such as 16-6-4, are often used in spring, when you want to encourage lush growth or green up your lawn.
Another type is meant to stimulate root growth, stem vigor, and flower and fruit production. Fertilizers of this sort contain little nitrogen and higher levels of phosphorus and potassium; the N-P-K ratio may be 3-20-20, for example. These products are applied at different times and in different ways, depending on what you want to achieve. When you prepare a new planting area, for instance, you'll work a dry granular fertilizer of this sort deeply into the soil, putting the phosphorus and potassium where roots can absorb them. The nutrients help strengthen the new plants' developing stems and encourage the growth of a dense network of roots.
To promote flower production and increase the yields of fruit or vegetable crops, you apply the same sort of fertilizer to established plants after they've completed their first flush of growth. You can use either dry granules, scratching them lightly into the soil, or apply a liquid formula with a watering can or a hose-end applicator.
A third group of fertilizers is designed for use on specific plants. These feature the N-P-K ratios determined to elicit the best performance from the particular plant, as well as other elements proven valuable to that plant. Such fertilizers are named according to the plant they're intended to nourish. Especially useful are formulas for citrus trees and acid-loving plants such as camellia and rhododendron.
Recently, other such plant-specific fertilizers have appeared on nursery shelves, each claiming to be the best choice for a certain plant or group of plants; you may see several sorts of "tomato food" or "flower fertilizer," for example. The jury is still out on the benefit of many of these products, and you will often do just as well to use a general-purpose type. The main distinction is often the price: the "special" formulas are usually costlier than general-purpose kinds.
SYNTHETIC AND ORGANIC FERTILIZERS
Some fertilizers are manufactured in the laboratory, while others are derived from natural sources. Each has certain advantages.
Synthetic fertilizers. These products are derived from the chemical sources listed on the product label. They're faster acting than organic kinds and provide nutrients to plants quickly, making them a good choice for aiding plants in severe distress from nutrient deficiencies. Synthetic fertilizers are sold both as dry granules to be applied to the soil and as dry or liquid concentrates to be diluted in water before application. In dry form, they're usually less expensive than their organic counterparts. In some of the dry granular types (those known as controlled-release fertilizers), the fertilizer granules are coated with a permeable substance; with each watering, a bit of fertilizer diffuses through the coating and into the soil. Depending on the particular product, the nutrient release may last anywhere from 3 to 8 months.
Some synthetic products are packaged for special purposes; you'll find spikes and tabs for container plants, for example.
Note that synthetic fertilizers usually do not contain any of the secondary or micronutrients ― but in most cases, these nutrients are already present in the soil. If a test indicates that some are missing, look for a fertilizer that provides them.
Organic fertilizers. Organic fertilizers are derived from the remains of living organisms; blood meal, bone meal, cottonseed meal, and fish emulsion are just a few of the many available types. Organic fertilizers release their nutrients slowly: rather than dissolving in water, they're broken down by bacteria in the soil, providing nutrients as they decompose. Because these fertilizers act slowly, it's almost impossible to kill lawns or plants by applying too much (overdosing with synthetics, in contrast, can have potentially fatal results). Some manufacturers combine a variety of organic products in one package, then offer them for general-purpose or specialized use.
Two commonly used soil amendments ― compost and manure ― have some nutritive value and can be used as part of an organic fertilizing program. The N-P-K ratio of compost varies from 1.5-.5-1 to 3.5-1-2. Chicken manure's N-P-K ratio ranges from 3-2.5-1.5 to 6-4-3; that of steer manure is usually a little less than 1-1-1.
Fertilizers containing seaweed are gaining favor with many gardeners. Besides providing nutrients in a form immediately available to plants, seaweed contains mannitol, a compound that enhances absorption of nutrients already in the soil, and various hormones that stimulate plant growth. And the carbohydrates in seaweed break down rapidly, nourishing soil-dwelling bacteria that fix nitrogen and make it available to plant roots.
Mixed with water and sprayed directly on foliage, seaweed-containing fertilizers can have dramatic effects in a matter of days. Plants green up and begin to produce new growth, and those that are weak stemmed and straggly straighten up and become stronger.
kbo ca
Active Member
ya you just mix it all together in your container. easy peesy
kbo ca
Active Member
I don't know if i'm misunderstanding your post, but i never said to use bloom nutes during the veg stage. i don't use any veg nutes because the ocean forest has plenty.
doggyd
Active Member
Motherhugger
Well-Known Member
Ah the power of Google to help growers out.
Really, folks. Use it. It will help you.
Really, folks. Use it. It will help you.
you are way over complicating this. I am using fox farms soil right now, you can check my grow if you like. I started adding "MAXSEA" as well as superthrive at 1/2 strength 7 days after clones were put into the soil. They are soaking up every bit of it. Dont make this difficult bro. you are stoned. its so easy that by thinking of it as difficult, you have made it so.
cannawizard
Well-Known Member
*i've used the original +2 AN system with 100% FFoF
great results.. tho im not advocating to use AN (boo!) but in-regards to your Q.. AN w/ FF soil is all honky dory~--cheers
*FFoF w/ AN
I was having problems with AN when I first started out, so I called them and they sent me this. This is a great feeding schedule for the three part using soil. Hope it helps.
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Here is a relatively simple version of the feeding chart that includes a number of our supplements and additives, while still giving you great results and yields. Let me know if there is anything else I can add or if this is sufficient.
Vegetative growth
We do not recommend applying any nutrients until your plants have developed 3-4 sets of new or true leafs if grown from clones or seedlings. Also, if growing in amended soil, do not apply any nutrients until the plants have used up all the nutrients supplied by the soil. Having said that, here is what we suggest:
Until they develop 3 or 4 sets of new (clones)/true (seedlings) leaves feed them only water. You can foliar spray them with Jumpstart, use application rate suggested on the bottle or 1/4 strength B-52 (1 mL/liter) until then. You can also add 1/4 strength applications of Piranha, Tarantula or Voodoo Juice, to the water that you will use in the root zone.
Clones seedlings need high levels of moisture in the medium
(80% -85% is good 100% is too much)
They also like a warmer environment in the root zone 70 F – 80 F.
Week 1 – 300 ppm: GMB @ 0.5ml/L of each in a 1-1-1 ratio (1.5 ml in total per liter) + Foliar spray B-52 once per week at the 2ml/L application rate.
Week 2 – 600 ppm: GMB @ 1.0ml/L of each in a 1-1-1 ratio + Foliar spray B-52.
Week 3 – 900 ppm: GMB @ 2.0ml/L of Grow, 2.0ml/L Micro and 0.4ml/L Bloom in a 10-10-1 ratio (4.4ml in total per liter) + Voodoo Juice at the rate of 2ml/L + Foliar spray B-52.
Week 4 – 1200 ppm: GMB @ 2.5ml/L of Grow, 2.5ml/L Micro and 0.5ml/L Bloom in a 10-10-1 ratio (5.5ml in total per liter) + Voodoo Juice + Foliar spray B-52.
If it is necessary to veg your plants for a longer period of time then 4 weeks, continue with the 4th week application rates. Apply voodoo juice for up to three week in a row, to properly inoculate the root zone, after which, you can discontinue the application. Also, we recommend growing your plants in veg until they are about 1/3 of their final finish height, since the plants will put on anywhere from 1/2 - 2/3 more vertical growth in the bloom stage. That is, if you want to finish your plants at 6 feet tall, veg until they are 2 foot.
Flower Production Stage
Week 1 – 1000 ppm: GMB @ 1.6ml/L each in a 1-1-1 ratio (5.46 ml in total per liter) + Voodoo Juice at the rate of 2ml/L
Week 2 – 1200 ppm: GMB @ 2 ml/L each in a 1-1-1 ratio+ Voodoo Juice at the rate of 2ml/L + Big Bud @ 2ml/L
Week 3 – 1400 ppm: GMB @ 2.3 ml/L each in a 1-1-1 ratio + Big Bud @ 2ml/L + B52 @ 2ml/L
Week 4 - 1600 ppm: GMB @ 2.6 ml/L each in a 1-1-1 ratio + Big Bud @ 2ml/L + B52 @ 2ml/L
Week 5 – 1400 ppm: GMB @ 2.3 ml/L each in a 1-1-1 ratio + B52 @ 2ml/L + Overdrive @ 2ml
Week 6 – 1200 ppm: GMB @ 1.6ml /L each in a 1-1-1 ratio + B52 @ 2ml/L + Overdrive @ 2ml
Week 7 – Flush!
If plant needs longer than 6 weeks of feeding (7 week strain, the 7th week is a flush week), repeat week 4 for each extra week.
Overfeeding
If the very tip of the leaves get yellow, it is an early sign of overfeeding. Reduce the solution strength slightly (100 – 150 ppm), if not increase slightly.
Deficiencies
If the margins or any other part of the leaves yellows off it is a possible sign of deficiencies. Check pH in medium and reservoir, if the pH is off from the ideal levels lock out conditions may develop. At first symptom of a deficiency apply rule # 1: “When in doubt flush them out.”
If growing in a medium that takes some time to dry up, allow the medium to dry and feeding them plain pH adjusted water when they are ready, rule #2: “Don’t apply until it’s dry.” If growing in a re circulating system, find a way to give them only pH adjusted water for the length of a light cycle, a second reservoir just for water may be a simple solution, then it is just a matter of moving the pump over, maintain the regular water pump cycle during the flush.
pH conditions in medium
In Soil/Soiless (Soil or Soiless mixtures that may also contain peat moss but not Coco Coir) adjust the pH to 6.3
In Hydro (It includes products such as Rockwool, Hydroton Rock, and Lava Rock) adjust to 5.6
In Coco Coir adjust the ph to 5.8 – 6.0. You may want to supplement with SensiCal when growing in coco with a base nutrient that in not specific to growing in coco
Root damage
Another possibility is damage in the root zone, check for the possibility of root rot, or insect larvae as potential causes for root deterioration, brown, mushy, smelly roots are a good indicator of root damage. Hydrogen peroxide is an efficient way to destroy root rot causing bacteria.
Mixing instructions
When mixing your reservoir, always mix the product that has the highest nitrogen content first (the first number on the NPK rating.) This will more often then not, be your base nutrients. Make sure you properly dissolve each product before mixing the next one into your reservoir. After adding everything into the reservoir, allow the solution to sit for at least 1-2 hours. This will allow the pH to stabilize, making it easier to adjust. Once the pH is stabilized, measure it, and adjust according to the medium you are growing in.
When using a re circulating system, you will be dealing with one of two situations, either the reservoir is large enough to feed the plants for a week without the need to be topped up during the week or it is a small reservoir and in order to feed the plants through the week it will require to be topped up.
In case of reservoir that does not need to be topped up.
Add to the reservoir the amount of water that the plants are going to be using for the week, include some extra water to allow for evaporation.
Mix the nutrient solution at 1/6th of the strength that is suggested in the calculator for that week.
Example: If the plants need 1200 ppm for the week, divide 1200 by 6 and mix the reservoir at 200 – 250 ppm.
Allow the solution to sit long enough to stabilize the pH. Adjust pH
Feed the plants.
Allow the plants to feed on the solution and the pH to rise for 1 1/2 – 2 days before re adjusting the pH.
In case of reservoir that needs to be topped up with water during the week.
Add to reservoir the amount of water that the plants will use in 3 – 3 ½ days.
Mix the nutrient solution at the strength that is suggested in the calculator for that week.
Allow the solution to sit long enough to stabilize the pH. Adjust pH
Feed the plants
Allow the plants to feed on the solution for 1 1/2 – 2 days, top up with water to the original level first before re adjusting the pH, after adding the water allow solution to sit for an hour and re adjust the pH.
If growing in soil adjust the pH 6.3, in coco 5.8 – 6.0, in hydro 5.6.
When using a re circulating system having the pH rise after you start feeding the plants is a good thing, It means that the plants are up taking nutrient, it is important that it rises the plants up take different nutrients at different pH levels, allow the pH to rise for 1 ½ - 2 days at that point adjust the pH down to 5.6 again
http://www.advancednutrients.com/hydroponics/nutrient_calculator_old/
Measurements:
1 gallon = 4 liters (quarts)
1 tsp (teaspoon) = 5 mL
1/2 tsp (teaspoon) = 2.5 mL
1/4 tsp (teaspoon) = 1.25 mL
1 tbsp (tablespoon) = 3 tsp (teaspoon) = 15 mL
We use a 700 ppm/uS/m scale or a 0.7 scale to convert from EC to ppm.
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Vegetative growth
We do not recommend applying any nutrients until your plants have developed 3-4 sets of new or true leafs if grown from clones or seedlings. Also, if growing in amended soil, do not apply any nutrients until the plants have used up all the nutrients supplied by the soil. Having said that, here is what we suggest:
Until they develop 3 or 4 sets of new (clones)/true (seedlings) leaves feed them only water. You can foliar spray them with Jumpstart, use application rate suggested on the bottle or 1/4 strength B-52 (1 mL/liter) until then. You can also add 1/4 strength applications of Piranha, Tarantula or Voodoo Juice, to the water that you will use in the root zone.
Clones seedlings need high levels of moisture in the medium
(80% -85% is good 100% is too much)
They also like a warmer environment in the root zone 70 F – 80 F.
Week 1 – 300 ppm: GMB @ 0.5ml/L of each in a 1-1-1 ratio (1.5 ml in total per liter) + Foliar spray B-52 once per week at the 2ml/L application rate.
Week 2 – 600 ppm: GMB @ 1.0ml/L of each in a 1-1-1 ratio + Foliar spray B-52.
Week 3 – 900 ppm: GMB @ 2.0ml/L of Grow, 2.0ml/L Micro and 0.4ml/L Bloom in a 10-10-1 ratio (4.4ml in total per liter) + Voodoo Juice at the rate of 2ml/L + Foliar spray B-52.
Week 4 – 1200 ppm: GMB @ 2.5ml/L of Grow, 2.5ml/L Micro and 0.5ml/L Bloom in a 10-10-1 ratio (5.5ml in total per liter) + Voodoo Juice + Foliar spray B-52.
If it is necessary to veg your plants for a longer period of time then 4 weeks, continue with the 4th week application rates. Apply voodoo juice for up to three week in a row, to properly inoculate the root zone, after which, you can discontinue the application. Also, we recommend growing your plants in veg until they are about 1/3 of their final finish height, since the plants will put on anywhere from 1/2 - 2/3 more vertical growth in the bloom stage. That is, if you want to finish your plants at 6 feet tall, veg until they are 2 foot.
Flower Production Stage
Week 1 – 1000 ppm: GMB @ 1.6ml/L each in a 1-1-1 ratio (5.46 ml in total per liter) + Voodoo Juice at the rate of 2ml/L
Week 2 – 1200 ppm: GMB @ 2 ml/L each in a 1-1-1 ratio+ Voodoo Juice at the rate of 2ml/L + Big Bud @ 2ml/L
Week 3 – 1400 ppm: GMB @ 2.3 ml/L each in a 1-1-1 ratio + Big Bud @ 2ml/L + B52 @ 2ml/L
Week 4 - 1600 ppm: GMB @ 2.6 ml/L each in a 1-1-1 ratio + Big Bud @ 2ml/L + B52 @ 2ml/L
Week 5 – 1400 ppm: GMB @ 2.3 ml/L each in a 1-1-1 ratio + B52 @ 2ml/L + Overdrive @ 2ml
Week 6 – 1200 ppm: GMB @ 1.6ml /L each in a 1-1-1 ratio + B52 @ 2ml/L + Overdrive @ 2ml
Week 7 – Flush!
If plant needs longer than 6 weeks of feeding (7 week strain, the 7th week is a flush week), repeat week 4 for each extra week.
Overfeeding
If the very tip of the leaves get yellow, it is an early sign of overfeeding. Reduce the solution strength slightly (100 – 150 ppm), if not increase slightly.
Deficiencies
If the margins or any other part of the leaves yellows off it is a possible sign of deficiencies. Check pH in medium and reservoir, if the pH is off from the ideal levels lock out conditions may develop. At first symptom of a deficiency apply rule # 1: “When in doubt flush them out.”
If growing in a medium that takes some time to dry up, allow the medium to dry and feeding them plain pH adjusted water when they are ready, rule #2: “Don’t apply until it’s dry.” If growing in a re circulating system, find a way to give them only pH adjusted water for the length of a light cycle, a second reservoir just for water may be a simple solution, then it is just a matter of moving the pump over, maintain the regular water pump cycle during the flush.
pH conditions in medium
In Soil/Soiless (Soil or Soiless mixtures that may also contain peat moss but not Coco Coir) adjust the pH to 6.3
In Hydro (It includes products such as Rockwool, Hydroton Rock, and Lava Rock) adjust to 5.6
In Coco Coir adjust the ph to 5.8 – 6.0. You may want to supplement with SensiCal when growing in coco with a base nutrient that in not specific to growing in coco
Root damage
Another possibility is damage in the root zone, check for the possibility of root rot, or insect larvae as potential causes for root deterioration, brown, mushy, smelly roots are a good indicator of root damage. Hydrogen peroxide is an efficient way to destroy root rot causing bacteria.
Mixing instructions
When mixing your reservoir, always mix the product that has the highest nitrogen content first (the first number on the NPK rating.) This will more often then not, be your base nutrients. Make sure you properly dissolve each product before mixing the next one into your reservoir. After adding everything into the reservoir, allow the solution to sit for at least 1-2 hours. This will allow the pH to stabilize, making it easier to adjust. Once the pH is stabilized, measure it, and adjust according to the medium you are growing in.
When using a re circulating system, you will be dealing with one of two situations, either the reservoir is large enough to feed the plants for a week without the need to be topped up during the week or it is a small reservoir and in order to feed the plants through the week it will require to be topped up.
In case of reservoir that does not need to be topped up.
Add to the reservoir the amount of water that the plants are going to be using for the week, include some extra water to allow for evaporation.
Mix the nutrient solution at 1/6th of the strength that is suggested in the calculator for that week.
Example: If the plants need 1200 ppm for the week, divide 1200 by 6 and mix the reservoir at 200 – 250 ppm.
Allow the solution to sit long enough to stabilize the pH. Adjust pH
Feed the plants.
Allow the plants to feed on the solution and the pH to rise for 1 1/2 – 2 days before re adjusting the pH.
In case of reservoir that needs to be topped up with water during the week.
Add to reservoir the amount of water that the plants will use in 3 – 3 ½ days.
Mix the nutrient solution at the strength that is suggested in the calculator for that week.
Allow the solution to sit long enough to stabilize the pH. Adjust pH
Feed the plants
Allow the plants to feed on the solution for 1 1/2 – 2 days, top up with water to the original level first before re adjusting the pH, after adding the water allow solution to sit for an hour and re adjust the pH.
If growing in soil adjust the pH 6.3, in coco 5.8 – 6.0, in hydro 5.6.
When using a re circulating system having the pH rise after you start feeding the plants is a good thing, It means that the plants are up taking nutrient, it is important that it rises the plants up take different nutrients at different pH levels, allow the pH to rise for 1 ½ - 2 days at that point adjust the pH down to 5.6 again
http://www.advancednutrients.com/hydroponics/nutrient_calculator_old/
Measurements:
1 gallon = 4 liters (quarts)
1 tsp (teaspoon) = 5 mL
1/2 tsp (teaspoon) = 2.5 mL
1/4 tsp (teaspoon) = 1.25 mL
1 tbsp (tablespoon) = 3 tsp (teaspoon) = 15 mL
We use a 700 ppm/uS/m scale or a 0.7 scale to convert from EC to ppm.
doggyd
Active Member
I think the next time you post something that came from someone else you should FUKEN REP ME for that. How do you go and take my post from https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/458021-how-calculate-npk-ratio.html. And try and post it to a Thread that I have created. You not too smart! I emailed Advanced Nutes and that's what they sent me......DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH NEXT TIME THEN YOU CAN POST UP! NOW REP ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sensibowl
Active Member
Does the Foxfarm soil have any nutrients in it? That would be the one thing that might interrupt any other nutrient schedules.
gl
hugetom80s
Well-Known Member
Yes, Fox Farm soils have nutrients in them. They might make a soil-less mix that doesn't, but I'm not sure. All their popular soils have nutes.
As such you have to be very careful adding more nutes. The Fox Farm soils don't have enough nutrients in them on their own (which is how they sell the additives to make up the difference) but there's still enough that if you follow the feeding schedule for a hydroponic nutrient you'll definitely overfeed and burn your plants.
Hey doggy d douche... My above post was MY post! I actually recieved that email from AN personally MYSELF. Go get fucked I was just trying to help.
doggyd
Active Member
Oh ok I thought you just grabbed that from my posting. I understand now! My bad.......Now since you probably used that schedule before me how well does it work??????
No problems man I was just a little taken back from it is all. I tried to find my own schedule for a while with the three part AN but I kept on having defs or nute burn. Finally I gave up and called them and they sent me that. I wouldn't use the three part any other way...