Advanced Nutrients = waste of money.

ChroniSuierkush said:

Ok. I started 2 years ago with fox farm (because they were simple), i was getting between 2-3 oz, of each plant (small girls. Vegged for 3-4 weeks) i recently moved to a new water system, got an RO, got all new genetics, and a new nutrient line. I did minor research about advanced nutrients. I purchased big bud, bud candy, grow, micro, bloom, kushie kush, carboload, and rhino skin. My only source of internet is an ipad, and unfortunately the non ph perfect NUTRIENT calculator does NOT work on the ipad. So i havean incomplete feeding plan (as recommend) , and no chart to go off. So i have been doing research on blogs, and mainly using weaker amounts than what is recommended on the bottle. I over did the potassium and phosphorus alot. would that be a reason (or lock out other nutrients) for such a small yield?

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Again - KISS. I've been growing since 1964 and I have almost none of what you bought and my yields rock. As well, you changed EVERYTHING about how you grow. Everything. Water, medium, nutes. A recipe for disaster even for the best.

Forget the plan!!!!! Feed by need. If in water then start your PPM at around 200 and that includes your PPM of your tap water. And you needlessly bought an RO system. RO removes mostly calcium and magnesium from municipal water supplies and then we buy micros to add it back in. A fool's errand to be sure. Around week 3 raise your PPM by 100, more or less.

So now i have to ask if you have a GOOD pH meter and a good PPM or EC meter?

ChroniSuierkush said:

I spend time with the girls daily, examining leaf shape, color, structure, stem color, and firmness. I love to "read" the girls.

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Then you have your feeding schedule right in front of you. That is once you learn and understand basic plant nutrition.

chuck estevez said:

Nutes do not a great grower make. That's a compliment if you don't get it. I't probably was a combination of other things that got you different results. Growing skills and environment are the first to come to mind. I bet if you learned that you could do the same at half the cost for nutes, you would be all over it.

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sorry but that was my very first grow ever! just a lot of reading and research and 1000w of hps did that! you are very right pertaining to complimenting the grow, I am by no means a pro to the slightest! but i followed the directions on the feeding chart, making sure to adjust the reservoir size and voila. i cleaned up necrotic leaves and lolly popped about a foot of plant no training, no bending, no topping just let it grow and gave the plant my personal attention... love is what makes them grow...

ChroniSuierkush said:

Carboload? Too?

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I would try carboload but I didn't buy it. I get 3 oz off a plant using non namebrand nutes, so i tried to keep it minimal. I just wanted to try AN as an experiment to see if it would improve yield and quality. Did anyone see AN on the shelf in Mac and Devin go to high school lmao not that it means anything but I thought it was kind of funny. Maybe snoop cosigns AN for real. I know he and wiz smokes the best shit lmao

hotrodharley said:

Again - KISS. I've been growing since 1964 and I have almost none of what you bought and my yields rock. As well, you changed EVERYTHING about how you grow. Everything. Water, medium, nutes. A recipe for disaster even for the best.

Forget the plan!!!!! Feed by need. If in water then start your PPM at around 200 and that includes your PPM of your tap water. And you needlessly bought an RO system. RO removes mostly calcium and magnesium from municipal water supplies and then we buy micros to add it back in. A fool's errand to be sure. Around week 3 raise your PPM by 100, more or less.

So now i have to ask if you have a GOOD pH meter and a good PPM or EC meter?

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yes i have an r o . The filters are about a month or two old so the water comes out at 20-30 ppm. I have the ppm meter and the p h meter. I have been adding 1 tsp cal mag (5%ca 1% mag) pr gallon. Making my starting ppm 300-350 before adding anything else.(good or bad?) and i didnt want to change everything all at once but life gave me lemons. Just trying to make lemonade

ChroniSuierkush said:

yes i have an r o . The filters are about a month or two old so the water comes out at 20-30 ppm. I have the ppm meter and the p h meter. I have been adding 1 tsp cal mag (5%ca 1% mag) pr gallon. Making my starting ppm 300-350 before adding anything else.(good or bad?) and i didnt want to change everything all at once but life gave me lemons. Just trying to make lemonade

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soil soil soil

Not to detract from all the flaming, but I imagine either product comes down mostly to how you use it. Sure, how much you feed what, when, is going to matter, but there is so much other shit to consider:

- How often do you feed and how often do you water?
- Soil or hydro
- How often do you flush your hydro res?
- How accurate are you with PH and measuring
- What are your lights / temps / all the other shit that matters just as much if not more than nutes

One thing I will say against dynagro is that they don't release an official feeding chart - I can see how people following the directions with AN have better luck guessing with Dynagro, especially since Dynagro Bloom is damn strong.

I'll also say I don't really like MagPro at all. Fox Farms Tiger Bloom seems to work better with DG Bloom than MagPro does.

DG bloom is really good, cheap and strong (so is DG grow) It's kind of hard not to love, unless you fry some soil plants b/c you don't know how much to use.

I've ran all the lines from AN with great success. It's like any line, you must figure out how it has to work. Plus their customer service line is only a call away to hear from the company what you may be doing wrong. It took me a minute to fig exactly what needs to go on in the line but once figured out its just smooth sailing healthy plants. Although if not administered correctly it can be the demise of your garden.

See the same goes for any brand though, have to fig out how to work it. Lets not even get started on plant genetics and their affect to how the line can run so many factors play into the results of your garden. Always check human error first because indoors it all depends on us and the environment we give our ladies.

ChroniSuierkush said:

yes i have an r o . The filters are about a month or two old so the water comes out at 20-30 ppm. I have the ppm meter and the p h meter. I have been adding 1 tsp cal mag (5%ca 1% mag) pr gallon. Making my starting ppm 300-350 before adding anything else.(good or bad?) and i didnt want to change everything all at once but life gave me lemons. Just trying to make lemonade

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Always start the PPM low. Around 150 in your case with seedlings or young clones. Wait for the PPM to drop, even slightly, before adding another thing. No carbs! Those are for later if you do use them. The plant does NOT use carbs, the friendlies under them do. So add parts A & B of whatever you have and call it good! Then watch the plant for signs of deficiencies and your PPM and pH meters for indications of change. Rising PPM? No nutes, it's had enough and you need to drain some res and lower the PPM ASAP.

I have used a few different products and unless you are into organic, I found BC nutes to be simple to use and very effective when used in a hydro system. I grow in soil now and use House and Gardens Soil formulas and I swear by them. Very low salt build up and the plants are very happy with it. Keep it green and peace, bro. Life is a learning process that takes forever

Ok I forgot a few things, fox farm soil/ roots organic soil . RO water with cal/mag plenary of airflow low and high! 75 degrees...good ventilation to exhaust room! I did the 100% organic stuff too if you want to really get down to it I used iguana juice Humic and fulvic acids, sensizym, carboload, b1, piranha and tarantula and voodoo juice..entire schedule and it was more than I wanted to spend yes an I will experiment with others to see if I get equal or better results.. I wanted to try the supposed "best" on the market first an work my way down.. But I'm finicky and picky so I really put forth the EFFoRT to succeed!

Also trust that companies are allowed to label certain things that haven't been clinically tested and run through the government through their million hoops to be able to certify it and put it on a label. So some companies do actually add other ingredients That you don't see on the label. Also they chelate them differently as Harley was saying I think in regards to salt build up and uptake

hotrodharley said:

Always start the PPM low. Around 150 in your case with seedlings or young clones. Wait for the PPM to drop, even slightly, before adding another thing. No carbs! Those are for later if you do use them. The plant does NOT use carbs, the friendlies under them do. So add parts A & B of whatever you have and call it good! Then watch the plant for signs of deficiencies and your PPM and pH meters for indications of change. Rising PPM? No nutes, it's had enough and you need to drain some res and lower the PPM ASAP.

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I am in pro mix soil. Ph of water stays between 6.4-6.8. So. I mentioned after adding CA mag my RO ppm is 350. Are you saying that is too high in general? Or just for cuts and seeds

ChroniSuierkush said:

I am in pro mix soil. Ph of water stays between 6.4-6.8. So. I mentioned after adding CA mag my RO ppm is 350. Are you saying that is too high in general? Or just for cuts and seeds

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If your PPM is too high then the plant suffers lockout. Or can.

View attachment 2547964

Check the pH and Nutrient ranges on this. So how much cal/mag are you adding that raises your PPM that damned high in a single feed?

I guess im just confused about the cleanliness of reverse osmosis water and MICROnutrient problems associated with them. My plain tap water is 380 and i have been told several times that is unhealthily high. Like.. Should i add cal mag to R O water?

I understand temp, humidity. Air control, smell controller, ideal ph ranges, ideal ppm ranges all throughout the grow, i know whengirls are thirsty and need water, and can tell when they are ok. I understand there is salt build ups and nutrient build ups after several feedings and i properly water them to eliminate those build ups and lock outs. I know that you can do TOO much in a garden and no matter what ... It is just a weed. Im going to try using half r o water and half tap water, starting ppm 200 . And not using cal mag. Good or bad plan?

your growing in soil which is a natural buffer already right?

chewberto said:

your growing in soil which is a natural buffer already right?

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What do you mean buffer?

hotrodharley said:

If your PPM is too high then the plant suffers lockout. Or can.

View attachment 2547964

Check the pH and Nutrient ranges on this. So how much cal/mag are you adding that raises your PPM that damned high in a single feed?

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1 tsp per gallon of cal mag.

If you notice on the advanced nutrients feeding schedule your PPM's are maxed out in mid bloom that means if you have a strain that has extra weeks you need to continue to give the max amount of nutrients and ppm during mid bloom for each additional week if you know the strain. If not you're going to have to just look at the plant and know! I did the same thing with the strain that needed about 3 to 4 extra weeks and it turned out not as good, but when IMAXed out the PPM's during mid bloom for an additional month it was 10 times better. Also I feed water feed water feed water....