Aerocloners unite!!!

grandpabear3

New Member
Will he white slime that seems to grow in my aero cloner cause cuttings not to root? Im changing and disinfecting my cloner every other day so I can have a clean res until I get my bottle of hygrozyme. Im using bleach, dish detergent, to clean the res and the pump. I dont see any slime on the stems or the net pots but that doesnt mean its not there. Should I clean them somehow? Acctually Im pretty sure the white shit will kill your clones.
get h2o2 if you can 35% works great 50 is better but harder to find for some people. 1 ml/l of 50 and 1.7 ml/l of 35.....all the horse semen floating around and stickin to stuff will die

NOOOOOOOOOO !!!! No bleach the residue will kill your clones. I know this how you ask???

I have a secret that i use and i have done 2 sets of clones with no water changes so that's 5 weeks and not a nasty slick spot anywhere.

Its called genesis microbe tonic.

Link

Call them up
well, you whore of babylon......secret ingredients......snake oil peddler. go burn in heck buddy. "i dont use anything but tap water....blablabla.
bullshit
 

LoudBlunts

Well-Known Member
h202 doesnt and will not kill all


but a product called Physan 20 will


it will keep ANY and ALL hydro pathogens at bay. be very careful with the stuff as it can be just as deadly if not deadlier than h202
 

grandpabear3

New Member
h202 doesnt and will not kill all


but a product called Physan 20 will


it will keep ANY and ALL hydro pathogens at bay. be very careful with the stuff as it can be just as deadly if not deadlier than h202
you've finally lost it lb....i was worried. h2o2 is and always will be the best pathogen control device....there are no organics that live through a treatment. everything else is supplemental. plus if it can kill em why bother...h2o2 is impossible to overdue at the levels i've suggested..


hey...btw off topic but how the hell are you and that lollipop grow doin?
 

LoudBlunts

Well-Known Member
im sorry, but h202 is NOT and will NOT always be the best pathogen control device

wanna know how i know?

i run 2 very clean ops. rubber gloves and i add 35% peroxide (Advanced Nutes Oxy) at that. and guess what? the h202 was never able to keep it at bay...never...sure it would work for a while, but it would only foam up the shit, then the shit would grow on the h202....lol...trust me i know. i eat sleep shit hydro and aero

pictures for proof:

anywho.....all plants are doing excellent and recovered very nicely....and guess what solved the problem? Physan 20

trust me i wouldnt spew bullshit brother....

and oh yea...the grows are doing bad ass...i got 2 OPs now.... i got a 32-site aquamist unit which sits under 1k lighting in the secret jardin darkroom tent and im also working on that sog perpetual cab.

but as you know RIU's servers are stateside....so im paranoid and dont post pics on this site....


i havent logged on to RIU in months let alone posted cuz thas where im at. hell this pics i just posted may be removed as soon as you see them as well!
 

anhedonia

Well-Known Member
Holy shit! That looks like what Im dealing with only yoursare in a severly advanced stage. Will it kill your cuttings? I grow organic so Im going to buy a bottle of hygrozyme to get it under control. Did you wash all that funk off your clones?
 

LoudBlunts

Well-Known Member
you CANT just wash it off.

how i remedied was getting res temps under control and swishing the plugs in a light h202 mixture


and then finally using Physan 20 to KILL every pathogen.

it KILLED IT DEAD

and i transplant into coco.

all plants are doing excellent.

and also, IMHO....the hygrozyme wont do shit but eat dead root matter and stimulate new root growth.

the gunk (also thought it was slime mould) only killed 2 of my plants. all the rest made it!

TAKE CARE OF IT FAST! asap or IT WILL kill your plants.

you MUST MUST MUST i cannot stress this enough, you MUST keep those res temps under control!
 

grandpabear3

New Member
:?
im sorry, but h202 is NOT and will NOT always be the best pathogen control device
it might not always be but it....oh never mind

wanna know how i know?
sure

i run 2 very clean ops. rubber gloves and i add 35% peroxide (Advanced Nutes Oxy) at that. and guess what? the h202 was never able to keep it at bay...never...sure it would work for a while, but it would only foam up the shit, then the shit would grow on the h202....lol...trust me i know. i eat sleep shit hydro and aero
well i eat shit and sleep cheetos but i cant tell you how much hydrogenated soy bean oil is in every gram.....jk
ok, i know how you can be but in all fairness something was wrong with your op if the shit was fizzing or foaming....if it did that then it ate up the h2o2 as soon as you put it in. you have described and shown pics of ecactly that. your tanks would get ok for a while and go shitty right back on you again....mine were doing that and i thought the peroxide was working cause i seen fizz and then well...same shit. so i had to bump it up until it didnt fizz when i added . not argueing just hat to see anyone have a hard time with this stuff. if it fizzes when you add it, it's used up. even when it dont you still have to add it every 2-3 days. but mine are running pathogen free for 8 months now since i got it right. if the other works for you then cool. but pretty please dont hate the h2o2 it still loves you and wants you to come home.

awesome to hear about the ops man. very cool, i gotta go check out those pics

anywho.....all plants are doing excellent and recovered very nicely....and guess what solved the problem? Physan 20
you just gotta get em' in there dont ya? lol
trust me i wouldnt spew bullshit brother....
i know that....goes without saying. me and you discuss we dont argue . thats why i love you :?

and oh yea...the grows are doing bad ass...i got 2 OPs now.... i got a 32-site aquamist unit which sits under 1k lighting in the secret jardin darkroom tent and im also working on that sog perpetual cab.

but as you know RIU's servers are stateside....so im paranoid and dont post pics on this site.... but i do however post pics on the other site s-k-u-n-k if you want to know where to find me.


i havent logged on to RIU in months let alone posted cuz thas where im at. hell this pics i just posted may be removed as soon as you see them as well!
i thought this was in canada.....dammit to hell
 

Bullethead21

Well-Known Member
Question guys, how much h202 solution should I use to 6 gllons of water for Bubblponnic system? Im getting a liitle broown line around the inside of the tank and some the roots are turning brown....the plants look really healty and are growing pretty good..new roots every day it seems, but when I saw this thread and the brown stuff forming around the water line inside the tank, and the little browning on some of the thickest roots on one of plants I began to worry. WOuld like to head off a serious problem if possible.

ANy help would be highly appreciated!

Thanks!
 

The Martian

Active Member
Hello Folks.
Ditch the bleach m8, and get yersel a bottle of hydrogen peroxide (h2o2) or if your into hydro in any but the smallest of ways, I recomend spending a bit more rent up front and bying a Ozone (o3) generator, its a real multi use machine for growing.
You can use h2o2 to clean shit with, without residue. You can bung it strieght into your solution, (at the correct strength obviously), it will break down into h2o (water) and a free oxygen atom.
Just in case ya didn't know, there are three types of Oxygen;-
O1 or O, one Oxygen atom, very VERY active, hates to be on its own, and will Join with most things organic/bio, will kill any bad organisms, and even kill organic SMELLS (sound interesting???).
O2, two Oxygen atoms, the shit we breath in the air, and plants use it through the roots.
O3, Ozone, three Oxygen atoms, very unstable, as the spare O atom likes to break off from the more stable O2 pair, and then being on its own again likes to react, as single O atoms will.
AND then Theres H2O2, (hydrogen peroxide), wich as I said earlier, one of the Oxygen atoms breaks away and becomes very reactive, leaving just H2O (water).
They are both, (I reckon) needed tools, especially as one can get a ozone generator new for about 30 buff, that will do your nute solutions, (ya can move the outlet pipe to whereever you like), and you can use another outlet to help with the anti stink campagn, (pipe it into your trunking/vent tubing).
And Hydrogen peroxide can be picked up real cheap, as long as you don't buy it from a fuckin grow shop, (what you want is hydrogen peroxide, laundry shit, and its 30 odd % too, the one I have upstairs is 35%, 4 ltre bottle, and it cost 2 bar, I checked up the data safety sheet, and it stated hydrogen peroxide, greater than 30%, in aqueus solution, so to me thats H2O2 and H2O, (besides I'm not sure what else they can put in it, it being so reactive and all)).
You Know it makes sense!!!!!!!!:idea::clap::wink:

Toodle Ooo
 

The Martian

Active Member
Hello Peeps.
Hereya m8, if its 35% 3-4 mls per gallon of solution, check your bottle, over here (UK), it tends to be 17.5% from some growshops. So if it is 6 to 8 mls per gallon.

Ta Ta.
 

StinkBud

Well-Known Member
Thanks spark for backing me up, IOU

NO LEAKS hear buddy :hump:

This is a SOLID white container (not CLEAR) witch lets no light thru, plus its only a flouro bulb anyways, i dought its powerful enough to cause any problems with allege, not trying to bang u down but i know spark is not as nice as me when u back him in a corner lets give him sum breathing room.lol

Thats why i love this container cuz its white and reflects all light back to the source (the plants) and plus its looks cool to. lol

Im all about looks too when its cums to stuff like this. Its a bad habit i do it with everything. everything has to be perfect and looks perfect for me to even take credit for it. I spent allot of time a effort on this one. I used allot of silicone and large weather stripping and came up with this nifty lil thing. I think it super fly................
This is a very funny thread:-P Everyone is already an expert.:clap:

Maybe all you experts can help me. I'm having major problems. Check out these photos I took this morning.

There are all these little white crystals all over my buds. Even the leaves have them. Some are so covered you can't even see the bud!

Help me! What should I do?

P.S. Watch for my article called "How to Harvest a Pound Every Three Weeks" in High Times. It's coming out next May...
 

StinkBud

Well-Known Member
i'm trying the plumbers goop and weather stripping method when i get home tomorrow. i'm fighting stinkbud even though i kinda think he's right and it pisses me off a lil.i'll let you know how it does with leaks afterwards
Don't forget to try the automotive weather striping too. Try both the 2 rib and 3 rib type. Oh yea, don't forget to try every type of high density foam.

Try sanding it with a drum sander and using lots of aquarium silicone. Foam tape? Window weather striping. You know they make like ten different types of window weather stripping. Try them all. I have...:wall:

Then after you get tired of cleaning up water all the time, go by a Rubbermaid Roughneck container.:-P
 

Styl!st07

Well-Known Member
There are all these little white crystals all over my buds. Even the leaves have them. Some are so covered you can't even see the bud!


Help me! What should I do?
Dont worriers mate i know just the trick but you have to fallow my intructions. Grab those bitches by the base of the stock and bang that shit aginst the floor as hard as u can. Then jump up and donw till all th crystals fall off. U will find this a lil harsh but it works i do it all the time. JK LOL :mrgreen:

P.S. Watch for my article called "How to Harvest a Pound Every Three Weeks" in High Times. It's coming out next May...
[/quote]

CONGRATS on the the HIght Times photo shoot.Thats what it was right? Just kidding on the replay, Im a lover not a fighter. :peace:

Those nuggies sure look tasty, i wish my screen was a scrach and sniff

- Styl!st
 

purpdaddy

Well-Known Member
This is a very funny thread:-P Everyone is already an expert.:clap:

Maybe all you experts can help me. I'm having major problems. Check out these photos I took this morning.

There are all these little white crystals all over my buds. Even the leaves have them. Some are so covered you can't even see the bud!

Help me! What should I do?

P.S. Watch for my article called "How to Harvest a Pound Every Three Weeks" in High Times. It's coming out next May...
Tese are what wee call trichomes.
THC and Trichomes
Almost everyone who enjoys marijuana knows that, for whatever reason, THC is the psychoactive component in the bud they ingest.
As a cannabis cultivator, it helps to know just a little bit more than what THC is—such as how it develops over time and how chemical changes in trichomes contribute to different psychoactive effects.
The primary goal of any plant is to create and nurture seeds to be viable for future growth. Trichomes help prevent seed damage from insects, animals, light degradation and fungal disease. In the case of cannabis, trichomes also contain THC, the chemical compound that provides a psychedelic high to humans. THC stands for Tetrahydrocannabinol (C21H30O2). Near the end of the flowering cycle, THC begins to break down and turns into another chemical compound called Cannabinol, or CBN (C21H26O2), in a process known as oxidization. Higher levels of CBN tend to provide a more narcotic or “stoned” feeling, while THC delivers a more euphoric, upbeat “high”. Knowing this, you can examine the trichomes and the pistils of the plant, then choose when you harvest to get the psychoactive effects you desire.
Cannabis plants produce THC and CBN on their stems, leaves, and vegetation surrounding the buds and are developed in trichomes, which emerge on the surface of most of the plant’s parts. On the stems and the early fan leaves, the trichomes are small and hug the surface. As the flowering phase continues, the glands develop on the more mature parts of the plant, including the smaller leaves and the first calyxes (which exist to develop and nurture seeds if male pollen fertilizes the female plant). The trichomes that develop on calyxes no longer hug the plant’s surface, but are on stalks like mushrooms with bulbous caps. During this time, more and more trichome-covered calyxes develop and create densely packed clusters, called ‘bud’. As your plants enter the final stages of their life cycle, the calyxes begin to swell and ripen, while more and more resin glands develop on the surface.
Another indication of plant maturity is the color of the pistils, the little hairs that grow from inside the calyxes. Their purpose is to collect male pollen to fertilize the ovum inside the calyx, creating a seed. When no male pollen exists calyxes grow dense without any seeds, resulting in sinsemilla cannabis. Near the end of the flowering phase, pistils change color, entering the window of peak maturity. The ratio of white pistils to red pistils determines the type of effects your plants are likely to produce: a high or stone. In the final few weeks of the flowering phase, the pistils change from bright white to a rusty orange or brown, signifying the end of the plant’s life cycle.
Examining Trichomes
As the amount of trichomes covering your plant increases, you should take a closer look at them, maintaining a light touch to avoid crushing the resin glands. Your best bet is to purchase an inexpensive 25x microscope (available at most electronics stores), and most pocket microscopes have a small light to help you get an illuminated peek at your trichome development.
When you cut small buds from your plant to test them, you want to concentrate on the stalked glandular trichomes. The coloration of the gland heads can vary with different strains and maturity, but most start with clear or slightly amber heads that gradually become cloudy or opaque when THC levels have peaked and are beginning to degrade. Regardless of the initial color of the trichomes, with careful observation you should be able to see a change in coloration as maturity levels off. Some cultivators wait for about half of the trichomes to go opaque before harvesting to ensure maximum THC levels in the finished product. However, you will also want to try samples at various stages to see what is best for you. While you may be increasing the total THC level in the cannabis by allowing half of the glands to go opaque, there will also be a larger percentage of CBN, which is why some people choose to harvest earlier while most of the trichomes are still clear.
Now you understand how trichomes develop on your plants and how to examine them as they turn from clear to opaque, indicating THC breakdown.
Early and Late Harvesting
Every strain has its own unique window of peak maturity, typically one to two weeks long. However, there is a difference between har vesting early or late within that window, depending on whether you want a head high or a body high.
As cannabis matures the chemistry of the plant changes, as does the type of effects. While these differences in chemical nature still require a lot of research to fully understand, you can utilize them to produce different types of highs for different needs.
By harvesting earlier in the window your buds tend to produce more of a cerebral head high, an effect much more pronounced in Sativas than Indicas. A head high is more psychedelic in nature, providing you with a pleasant mental “up” state, often ideally suited for social situations when you still need to have your wits and plenty of energy.
If you choose to harvest later in the window, your buds produce more of a body high, which is conversely more pronounced in Indicas than in Sativas. A body high is similar to a narcotic “down” effect, usually associated with being “stoned”. A down type of high is often desired in the late evening to calm nerves and drift into sleep. A late-harvest yield is often sought by medicinal cannabis users to ease pain and increase appetite. If you choose to harvest somewhere in the middle of the peak window of maturity, you don’t necessarily get the best of both worlds, but more of a happy medium. If you aren’t sure what type of high you like or want, aim for the middle and you likely won’t be disappointed.THC and Trichomes
Almost everyone who enjoys marijuana knows that, for whatever reason, THC is the psychoactive component in the bud they ingest.
As a cannabis cultivator, it helps to know just a little bit more than what THC is—such as how it develops over time and how chemical changes in trichomes contribute to different psychoactive effects.

The primary goal of any plant is to create and nurture seeds to be viable for future growth. Trichomes help prevent seed damage from insects, animals, light degradation and fungal disease. In the case of cannabis, trichomes also contain THC, the chemical compound that provides a psychedelic high to humans. THC stands for Tetrahydrocannabinol (C21H30O2). Near the end of the flowering cycle, THC begins to break down and turns into another chemical compound called Cannabinol, or CBN (C21H26O2), in a process known as oxidization. Higher levels of CBN tend to provide a more narcotic or “stoned” feeling, while THC delivers a more euphoric, upbeat “high”. Knowing this, you can examine the trichomes and the pistils of the plant, then choose when you harvest to get the psychoactive effects you desire.

Cannabis plants produce THC and CBN on their stems, leaves, and vegetation surrounding the buds and are developed in trichomes, which emerge on the surface of most of the plant’s parts. On the stems and the early fan leaves, the trichomes are small and hug the surface. As the flowering phase continues, the glands develop on the more mature parts of the plant, including the smaller leaves and the first calyxes (which exist to develop and nurture seeds if male pollen fertilizes the female plant). The trichomes that develop on calyxes no longer hug the plant’s surface, but are on stalks like mushrooms with bulbous caps. During this time, more and more trichome-covered calyxes develop and create densely packed clusters, called ‘bud’. As your plants enter the final stages of their life cycle, the calyxes begin to swell and ripen, while more and more resin glands develop on the surface.

Another indication of plant maturity is the color of the pistils, the little hairs that grow from inside the calyxes. Their purpose is to collect male pollen to fertilize the ovum inside the calyx, creating a seed. When no male pollen exists calyxes grow dense without any seeds, resulting in sinsemilla cannabis. Near the end of the flowering phase, pistils change color, entering the window of peak maturity. The ratio of white pistils to red pistils determines the type of effects your plants are likely to produce: a high or stone. In the final few weeks of the flowering phase, the pistils change from bright white to a rusty orange or brown, signifying the end of the plant’s life cycle.
Examining Trichomes

As the amount of trichomes covering your plant increases, you should take a closer look at them, maintaining a light touch to avoid crushing the resin glands. Your best bet is to purchase an inexpensive 25x microscope (available at most electronics stores), and most pocket microscopes have a small light to help you get an illuminated peek at your trichome development.
When you cut small buds from your plant to test them, you want to concentrate on the stalked glandular trichomes. The coloration of the gland heads can vary with different strains and maturity, but most start with clear or slightly amber heads that gradually become cloudy or opaque when THC levels have peaked and are beginning to degrade. Regardless of the initial color of the trichomes, with careful observation you should be able to see a change in coloration as maturity levels off. Some cultivators wait for about half of the trichomes to go opaque before harvesting to ensure maximum THC levels in the finished product. However, you will also want to try samples at various stages to see what is best for you. While you may be increasing the total THC level in the cannabis by allowing half of the glands to go opaque, there will also be a larger percentage of CBN, which is why some people choose to harvest earlier while most of the trichomes are still clear.
Now you understand how trichomes develop on your plants and how to examine them as they turn from clear to opaque, indicating THC breakdown.

Early and Late Harvesting
Every strain has its own unique window of peak maturity, typically one to two weeks long. However, there is a difference between har vesting early or late within that window, depending on whether you want a head high or a body high.
As cannabis matures the chemistry of the plant changes, as does the type of effects. While these differences in chemical nature still require a lot of research to fully understand, you can utilize them to produce different types of highs for different needs.
By harvesting earlier in the window your buds tend to produce more of a cerebral head high, an effect much more pronounced in Sativas than Indicas. A head high is more psychedelic in nature, providing you with a pleasant mental “up” state, often ideally suited for social situations when you still need to have your wits and plenty of energy.
If you choose to harvest later in the window, your buds produce more of a body high, which is conversely more pronounced in Indicas than in Sativas. A body high is similar to a narcotic “down” effect, usually associated with being “stoned”. A down type of high is often desired in the late evening to calm nerves and drift into sleep. A late-harvest yield is often sought by medicinal cannabis users to ease pain and increase appetite. If you choose to harvest somewhere in the middle of the peak window of maturity, you don’t necessarily get the best of both worlds, but more of a happy medium. If you aren’t sure what type of high you like or want, aim for the middle and you likely won’t be disappointed.
As you continue to examine your plants, you will be tempted, even compelled, to start pulling buds off of your plants to test them out. There is a right way and a wrong way to try out your buds before they are ready, so let’s take a look at your options.
Testing Your Buds
Most new growers start picking at their crop only a few weeks after budding starts. Usually this is because inexperienced growers get too excited and they don’t know that these small, immature buds still have a way to go before they hit peak maturity and reach the highest trichome development. But there is definitely nothing wrong with being excited about your ladies! Even veteran growers still get giddy seeing their plants start to sag under the weight of so much resin.
I don’t recommend taking any buds from your plants until they are approaching their window of harvest, and you should only take a small bud every day or two. You can test your first bud when approximately 10% of the pistils have turned reddishbrown; take it from the middle area of the plant. Once you’ve cut your self a small bud to try out, you need to dry it, but drying and curing traditionally takes longer than the entire window of peak maturity, so you have to quick dry it. Quick drying is a sub-optimal way to turn a lush, wet bud into something you can smoke, but it’s the best way to quickly test your bud every other day as it matures.

There are lots of different ways to quick dry your bud, but one of the best ways is to use your lighting ballasts in the grow room. First, cut up your fresh bud and spread it out evenly in an envelope. Close the envelope and place it on top of your ballast, then leave it there for two to three hours while the light is on. After the buds are dried out, put them in an airtight container and allow the last of the moisture to move from the stem into the bud. Considering this is a quick dry method, the taste is usually good and the potency is acceptable. Also, the use of a vaporizer will allow you to concentrate on your high rather than being distracted by the odd taste of quick-dried weed smoke.
By now you know what trichomes are and how the chemicals in them evolve from producing a head high to a body high over a couple of weeks. You also know that the pistils on your buds change color from white to reddish-brown as the window of harvest opens and closes, as well as what type of high to expect depending on the percentage of new and mature pistils. Throughout the window of harvest, you took small buds from the middle of the plant, quick dried them, then tested them out to determine the type of high you want your crop to give you. Now, you can harvest your plants with confidence in knowing that they will be loaded with resin that produces just the right kind of high you were looking for. Enjoy your harvest!
Hope this helps
 

grandpabear3

New Member
Don't forget to try the automotive weather striping too. Try both the 2 rib and 3 rib type. Oh yea, don't forget to try every type of high density foam.

Try sanding it with a drum sander and using lots of aquarium silicone. Foam tape? Window weather striping. You know they make like ten different types of window weather stripping. Try them all. I have...:wall:

Then after you get tired of cleaning up water all the time, go by a Rubbermaid Roughneck container.:-P


god fuckin dammit stink....chill the fuck out man....what is your problem? kinda bein a bit of a dick on this one. i dont give a shit if you have tried dryhumping one to get it to stop leaking!!!!!

i know of (know, not read or heard about ) 2 people with my same tubs that have gotten them to quit leaking. we all get it ....fuck! buy a rubbermaid ruffneck, jesus christ man some people cant for a million different reasons. for someone as intelligent as you your being supprisingly ignorant and rude on this. i know you tried and i know your trying to help people but your leaving a lot of people out ....like all the diy's
noone is arguing with you so chill .......we are simply "trying".

awesome on the article btw. now calm down you!
 

purpdaddy

Well-Known Member
god fuckin dammit stink....chill the fuck out man....what is your problem? kinda bein a bit of a dick on this one. i dont give a shit if you have tried dryhumping one to get it to stop leaking!!!!!

i know of (know, not read or heard about ) 2 people with my same tubs that have gotten them to quit leaking. we all get it ....fuck! buy a rubbermaid ruffneck, jesus christ man some people cant for a million different reasons. for someone as intelligent as you your being supprisingly ignorant and rude on this. i know you tried and i know your trying to help people but your leaving a lot of people out ....like all the diy's
noone is arguing with you so chill .......we are simply "trying".

awesome on the article btw. now calm down you!
ROFL!!!Funny ass shit man!
 

Styl!st07

Well-Known Member
god fuckin dammit stink....chill the fuck out man....what is your problem? kinda bein a bit of a dick on this one. i dont give a shit if you have tried dryhumping one to get it to stop leaking!!!!!

i know of (know, not read or heard about ) 2 people with my same tubs that have gotten them to quit leaking. we all get it ....fuck! buy a rubbermaid ruffneck, jesus christ man some people cant for a million different reasons. for someone as intelligent as you your being supprisingly ignorant and rude on this. i know you tried and i know your trying to help people but your leaving a lot of people out ....like all the diy's
noone is arguing with you so chill .......we are simply "trying".

awesome on the article btw. now calm down you!
LMFAO!!!!!!

Thats why we are all here, just trying to get roots, no hard feelings :mrgreen:
 
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