Al B. FAQt

Hello again Al

Ive been watering according to your instructions & today morning I noticed a layer of fuzz has formed around the seeds see pics

Any idea what this is?

I know you are a very busy man Mr. Fuct, however I would be very interested in your thoughts on my op.

https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/119268-first-hydro-grow.html

Any thoughts that you have for improvement would be much appreciated.

holmes said:

that is what i want, that should help with the temps and evenly distribute power consumption.

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It's a fairly simple matter to use a relay (or two) to make a switch that will transfer the output of a single ballast to run one of two lamps.

However, keep in mind that the cost of the relays, timer (and power supply for the relay coils if a low voltage coil relay type is selected) may exceed the cost of a second ballast!

The main design constraint is that HPS ballasts have an igniter which sends a 1.5-4kV (at quite low current) pulse to the lamp to strike the arc. Most relays are not rated for that much voltage.

If you use a relay that can't provide 4kV worth of isolation between the contacts, the igniter pulse could jump between the contacts and not make it to the lamp tube, preventing the tube from striking.

So, for this design exercise, I've used two separate SPDT relays:



The wiring from the ballast, through the relays and on to the lamps will need about 25mm distance between uninsulated connections (air has 10kV dielectric strength per 25mm).

AC power connections to the timer and ballast are omitted in this dwg for clarity. Relays shown have AC mains voltage coils, but relays with 12V coils are much more common and much cheaper. If low voltage coil relays are used, you'll have to organise a low voltage power supply between the timer and the relay coils.

I do think it would be more reliable in the end to just use two ballasts, but this ckt will do the job.

Old in the Way said:

I assume this can be done again to no ill effect if needed.

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No need to assume- it'll be fine.

iloveit said:

Any idea what this is?

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Yep, it's mould, caused by keeping the RW too wet.

kpw555 said:

Any thoughts that you have for improvement would be much appreciated.

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Yep, you're going to need a lot more ventilation capacity than 50CFM. Plan on 1CFM per cubic foot of room volume.

Hey AL...

So I am following your advice, and LOGIC really...

The Aerogarden is done after this first harvest... I may keep a small mother on it or something... but the growing operation just went from miniature to scale model.... lol...

I built a tent with a metal frame and B&W Panda Film...

36"W X 60"T X 20"D...

It will be lighted by a 600 HPS in a 8" cool tube... as soon as the mailman brings it....

Right now, I have these fans...

4" in line blower @ 80cfm (I have it as the exhaust, connected to a cooling thermostat)

4" in line blower @ 170 CFM ( I was planning on running this on the cool tube, with the pictured attachments and ducting)

but I also have access to 265 cfm squirrel cage fan ...

How would you arrange the ventilation...?

I know the cool tube is to have dedicated ventilation, what I am asking is which fan would you put where?

Thanks!!!

Here are a few pics of what I built... can't wait for the light to get here...

Thanks again for your input and advice... it's too bad cool people like you don't get "cool people" awards... like a nice vacation to an exotic location every year or something...

Thanks Al...!!!

Hey Al, i invested in a cooltube but i still been havig temp problems, i done a little kindergarden art with an idea i wanted to pick ur brain with.. Ill post it now and elaborate after.....



Because i am growing in a budbox i only have holes for 1 intake and 1 extractor fan, i still dont have an intake yet but i will if this gets a thumbs up lol.. but anyway if u can understand the drawing im trying to intake outside air and pump it into the budbox airmass but also through the cooltube, and the extractor fan sucking the rooms airmass and dumping it, but also beig joined by the cooltube air AFTER the extractor fan....in theory could this work, or would i need mega centrifugals to get enough airflow through the cooltube?? I have a 6" centri extractor at the mo havent brought an intake yet was thinkin about suggestions of size, either bigger and i make the 6" an intake or vice versa.....any advice is much appreciated al, thanks dude

Yep, it's mould, caused by keeping the RW too wet.

Damn Ive learnt the hard way.

I wont be making the same mistake twice.
Ive started to use the H2O2 according to your recommended dosage, should I carry on with the grow with these seeds or should I bin them & start over?

GypsyBush said:

How would you arrange the ventilation...?

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I'd use the 265CFM on the room exhaust and the 170CFM on the cooltube.

Thanks again for your input and advice... it's too bad cool people like you don't get "cool people" awards... like a nice vacation to an exotic location every year or something...

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no worries, I had a bula bula time in Fiji earlier this year, but unfortunately, it's the first holiday I've had in about 8 yrs...

ldnsharkkid said:

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Sorry, this won't work. Air leaving the intake blower will follow the path of least resistance, into the room airmass. The cooltube will not get sufficient flow.

i am growing in a budbox i only have holes for 1 intake and 1 extractor fan

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Just make more holes!

iloveit said:

should I carry on with the grow with these seeds or should I bin them & start over?

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Healthy sprouts don't go to mould. I can only guess that the seedling is dead. You may have no choice but to start over.

GypsyBush said:

How would you arrange the ventilation...?

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Al B. Fuct said:

I'd use the 265CFM on the room exhaust and the 170CFM on the cooltube.

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Would you recommend I use passive intake?

and just get rid of the 80 CFM... it's out of it's league here isn't it...?

Thanks man...

If you ever come to Alaska... I'll make sure you got a spot by the wood stove... it's been snowing all day...

hi al if you get a chance is there some guide lines to follow like ph drops root rot??? ph rise??? ppm drop??? ppm rise???? i havn't been able to find anything that isn't burried at least i havent been able to dig anything up yet ima keep lookin but if their is a chart or somthing you could help me with in any way at all here is the deal diy areo setup i just did a res change on the ninth added 1.5 ml per gal. of 40% h202 let it run for 20 min. added nutes, fox farms tiger bloom ppm was 750,ph 5.8- next night i check, ppm 750, ph 6.2 next night same 6.2,750 tonite ppm 810 ph 6.0. didn't seem to drink much water but ppm jumped no sign of nute burn or any other problems so why does this happen am i over nuting and just don't know cause im a hydro newb i know i will probably find my answer if i keep pokin around but if you can help i would be greatful kiss-ass

GypsyBush said:

Would you recommend I use passive intake?

and just get rid of the 80 CFM... it's out of it's league here isn't it...?

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yep, that's a very small blower for the application.I'd suggest a passive intake of about 2x the dia of the exhaust, or an intake blower a little closer to the CFM rating of the exhaust.

If you ever come to Alaska... I'll make sure you got a spot by the wood stove... it's been snowing all day...

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Soon as that power abusing gov you have up there has departed politics, we'll talk.

One more thing Al...

I am wiring the thermostat to the 80 cfm fan to do a test but it seems backwards to me...

When I turn the dial up (higher numbers) the fan kicks on and when I bring down, it shuts off...

Did I wire backwards or did the dude at the electrical shop give the opposite of what need...???

Maybe I am just stoned... or maybe I am just that dumb... but I am stumped... can you help?

Thanks....

However, keep in mind that the cost of the relays, timer (and power supply for the relay coils if a low voltage coil relay type is selected) may exceed the cost of a second ballast!

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i had no idea the parts would be so expensive, it would not be worth the trouble at all if that is the case. but thank you very much for the lovely diagram

how much heat does a ballast make?

how long will your plants survive if there was a failure with a pump or power issue?

why do rice crispies snap, crackle and pop?

GypsyBush said:

Odid the dude at the electrical shop give the opposite of what need...???

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Unless there's another set of contacts on this thermostat which close when the air temp is above the setpoint (instead of below it as is happening now, suiting a heating appliance), the dude at the electrical shop has indeed given you the wrong thing.

holmes said:

i had no idea the parts would be so expensive, it would not be worth the trouble at all if that is the case. but thank you very much for the lovely diagram

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Depends upon how good a shopper you are. Ballasts are not terribly expensive; I get 1000W CWA ballasts for $150, 600s for about $75, 400s for $60.

how much heat does a ballast make?

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Enough that they should be mounted outside the grow room is you have trouble keeping air temp below 26C.

how long will your plants survive if there was a failure with a pump or power issue?

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Mine? A couple of days with the water stored in the Fytocell. On the other hand, DWC/bubbler systems are in big trouble when power goes out because their air pump stops. All plants can be killed in just a few hours.

why do rice crispies snap, crackle and pop?

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The air bubbles in the puffed cereal collapse when milk is added.

LOL
I admire you, I want to be like Al

i do not have anything set up yet, im just doing my homework.
if they contribute heat, then i might opt for the electronic ballast. I know how you feel about them, and i know they are expensive, but i dont want any more heat other than lights and co2 generator. If they can do the job properly, not even up to the claims the manufactures have, then im happy. besides, i beleive they come with severel year warantees

for those who use aero, dwc, nft, media that dont retain water. in the occurance of a power outage, is it possible to have a small backup generator detect the shortage and supply power to pumps and fans?

You can get air pumps with battery backups, someone brought one to my attention a few weeks ago, damned if I can remember offhand where it could be had from. Something like 28 hours backup at reduced air flow. DWC is about the only system that needs such heroics. Others are OK without, especially if there's no power to run lighting. However, pump and timer failures are things you just have to catch through looking in on things regularly.

so I now have inline's a 4" for exhaust, and a 6" for soon to be cool tube.I need some guidance on a thermostat system for my intake and exhaust. Are fan controllers a necessity?

im not really interested in dwc, so i dont need an airpumpbackup wonder thing. I am interested in a universal backup thing

have you ever given a shotty to a kangaroo
you might not know what that means
shotty;http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=shotty#When someone punts the burning end of a blunt or joint into their mouth and blows into your mouth...you get a huge hit.
Yo, give me a shotty, bitch.

urbandictionary.com

bleezyg420 said:

Are fan controllers a necessity?

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If by 'fan controller' you mean an integrated thermostat and motor speed controller, no. You may not even need the speed controllers, but they are nice to have if you want your fans to be a bit quieter. I would hazard a guess that separately purchased speed controllers & thermostats would be cheaper than integrated controllers. Tstats are about $40, MSCs are about $30, your mileage may vary.

holmes said:

im not really interested in dwc, so i dont need an airpumpbackup wonder thing. I am interested in a universal backup thing

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A UPS for a computer might work for pumps, but won't have enough reserve to run lighting.

have you ever given a shotty to a kangaroo
you might not know what that means

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Yes, I know what a shotty is...

We have laws about native animal abuse. If Skippy the Bush Kangaroo could give informed consent to get high, I'd get them all stoned stupid, but Skippy can't consent as such, so I think I'll leave him & his mates be.