Al B. FAQt

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doktorgreenthumb420

Well-Known Member
hey al i have read many of your posts and i have a question i have a ppp from nirvana mother plant that is very healthy and actively growing and i know you dont use aero cloner anymore but i have had bad results from cloning this plant i know this is not due to anaroebic pathogens or algae cause i use 35% grade H2O2 at 1.5ml per L and i had different strains in same aerocloner that rooted just fine ..

my question is do you know what might be wrong? is there such a thing as a mother plant that just doesnt clone well ?

also she came from a clone and all those rooted nicely it is just this one strain that is giving me problems ....well i should say this one plant because i had no trouble with previous mother ....also she is in a general hydroponics water farm module and is about 2 months old the clones i take range from 9 inches to some as small as 3 inches


my cloner is on time tho i can logically determine that cause other strains have no problem at all

your input would be greatly valued

thanks
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
I think I am ready to move on to bigger and better things now.... but it has been fun and I learned a lot...

I must say that I am a bit surprised... they are turning out better than me or any of my mates thought they would...
To be deadly honest, they look exactly like I would expect. The low intensity of fluoro lighting produces a characteristically low density bud. It's the foliar penetration power of high intensity light which makes the solid nugs.
As for the degreaser... yeah.. freaking frackers... but you just wait... next batch.. I bet you i'll catch me a squadron or two... lol...
When you see the result of a big HPS compared to what you're getting now, you will shit bricks.
Thanks for all your great help Al... You Rock... (sorry no patience to go get a rocking chair..lol..)
ah well, then, here ya go. :D



Hi Al, I was wondering whether you could tell me if the smell from a gel type air freshener like this one

when hung in a properly vented space would permeate into a flowering plant and affect the bud in anyway?.
It sure can flavour your buds. I tried eucalyptus oil and naphthalene as counter-scents many moons ago and wound up with a couple batches that smelt of cough drops and moth balls. :lol: If you use counter-scents, put them in the exhaust duct or at the end of it instead of in the airmass with the plants.

Thanks for your time and generous sharing of your knowledge, you're a diamond imo.
Nah, I'm still a lump of coal, I haven't been under enough pressure to be a proper diamond. ;)

my question is do you know what might be wrong? is there such a thing as a mother plant that just doesnt clone well ?

also she came from a clone and all those rooted nicely it is just this one strain that is giving me problems ....well i should say this one plant because i had no trouble with previous mother ...
I had such inconsistent results with aerocloners that it is hard for me to say what was attributable to DNA and what to the cloning method.

However, with RW cubes on a 30C heatmat in a properly temp controlled clonebox, I have gotten very consistent results with any strain, give or take a couple of days to showing roots. It's safe to say I've never met a strain of cannabis I couldn't clone nor really any that were significantly more difficult to clone than others, given correct conds for the mums & clones in the process.

I would wager a guess you have just one problem plant. Some just fail to thrive for a variety of reasons. The progeny from the problem plant should be OK if given correct conds, tho. Once you get some clones going of the recalcitrant mum, thank it for all the clones and send it to the compost of the great beyond. ;)
 

flamdrags420

Well-Known Member
I'm on page 134. Been reading every thread for the past 4 days while home on breaks and such from work and play. Not sure when this ride ends, but I'm learning so much. Don't even bother replying. I wont see it until a few days. But just a pre thanks for all this knowledge my rockwool brain is tryingto suck up.

Ok fuck it. I'll ask some questions and will find it in a few days.

I'm just veginging some bag seeds to learn how to do this. in the mean time I'm learning as much as I can as I collect supplies for the room itself. I have lumber and ducting and some hardie backer board. A new 200 AMP box with a sub panel box that will be in the grow room.

My first question is. When I plan on venting my HPS flowering light. That ducting along with my exhaust out is going to go vertically from my base ment up and out the roof. i've seen your flow charts and understand fan sizes and such and why you have them the way you do. But will the exit fans on both the room and the lights be enough to go up what essiantially is 2 stories? (main floor of house and then attic then finally the roof ala 20 feet straight up from the grow room).

Should I add an additional fan at the attic level somewhere?

If I do need to do this (adding the additional exit fan) and plan on having a inline carbon fliter on the room exhaust venting, would I want this before or after the filter. (I'm saying carbon filter but I think its actualy the charcoal filter I'm on brain nute lock atm....better check my ph and add some coffee to my personal mix)

I'm seeing lots of different kinds of HPS lamps out there. What kind of qualities/attributes do I want to look for when selecting lamps. I know I want the reds and oranges, but is there more to it than that? Efficiency is important. watt/lumens. Anything else?

I really like your drawings you have. They really help a lot. Your grow room looks pretty efficent and well maintained and organized. I was wondering if you would do a blue print type drawing of your SOG op. Not neccessarily 100% accurate in the way each area sits to the next (ie you may or may not have your clone box right next to the flowering area. This doesn't matter as you can put it upstairs or in the other room) But what I'm looking for is to look and see your area footprints and sizes along with your sizes of the trays (which we know already ) just so I and others can better visualize the proportions of lights, room size, plants per area etc so that if we can't duplicate your exact op, we could scale it down, and be able to scale it down as a whole rather than individually. God I hope that makes sense but if not that's cool too. I can we write out that questi on better later along with a sketch of what I'm looking for.

There seems to be a good debate on MH vs T5s on cloning and vegging. I totally understand the cloning reasons for using these types. Is the reason you use the MH (or at this time I'm reading this on page 134 you are using a HPS still on your mums) is to regrain their branches after triming for clones faster than a T5 allows? This is so the veg op can keep up with the flowering cycle in that room?

I understand totally your comments on the LEO and having seeds delivered to your house. What strategies do you suggest on obtaining the seeds? I'm scared shitless to order them now and have them delivered here. But I really don't want any friends getting in trouble or having heat on them either. Can you discuss more in depth on arrangements for seeds?

Thanks for all of your work.

I hope i've managed to asks questions that are helpful for others too that haven't been covered as much or for those who would like more details.
 

doktorgreenthumb420

Well-Known Member
Al i appreciate your input i have read your clone method and i actually went for RW cubes just recently and i had a horticulture heat mat but it actually is broke ..no heat ... all the clones i took look great tho cept for some wilting from water neglect but i know i will get a good turnout anyways i dint clone any of the ppp problem power plant hehe but i will try right now and i also will use the cut and split stem technique

so basically i am on it bro lets see if the Al cloning method can trumph these problematic ppp mother

oh i also have a two week cloning schedule for SOG and i personally tried your staight to the bloom room after roots method they are short i take cuttings usually 4 inches long and wait two weeks for prolific roots they doubled in height with a EC of 1.6 of general hydroponics and some open sesame from fox farms ... they look awesome by the way and i will be able to cut out veg time and pack more plants in cause of shortness of plants


ok time to take some clones and stick these bitches
 

GypsyBush

Well-Known Member
Al B. Fuct said:
To be deadly honest, they look exactly like I would expect.
Well... there's the voice of experience..!!!! (and I am not being sarcastic)


Al B. Fuct said:
The low intensity of fluoro lighting produces a characteristically low density bud. It's the foliar penetration power of high intensity light which makes the solid nugs.
Actually Al, these have been under 1 x 35 HPS, 2 x 70 HPS and 1 x 100 MH...

But I know they are all low intensity... I was hoping they would turn out better than CFLs... but I am not too disappointed....

I think it is acceptable for a first indoor grow... inside of a night stand in a hotel room...:-P


Al B. Fuct said:
When you see the result of a big HPS compared to what you're getting now, you will shit bricks.
Oh, I am sure... that is why I got it... there is no comparison...

I just started miniature because I wanted to see what it was all about... scared of the "hydro" thing...

I know some good gardens... real shit... I know what it's like...

It is my first indoor... but I've just always had the ability to grow outdoors (live in South America for a long time..)




Al B. Fuct said:
ah well, then, here ya go. :D

Thanks!!! Your chair looks comfy!!!
 

Ghost420

Well-Known Member
hey al what are your thoughts on using UVA-UVB to increase thc production? i have never heard any conclusive results on this.

also some one told me that if you remove the glass sheilding in a hallogen work light(i know they cant be used for growth) and expose the radiation from it to ur plants for 10 mins a day it is effective what do u think about this?
 

paperfetti

Well-Known Member
If you want my opinion, I'll need pix, otherwise I'm just guessing.

Could be lots of things, but pathogen activity (i.e. pythium, fusarium) generally appears as a gelatinous gack in the water, not stuff floating on it. If you see a ring of stuff in your tank above the waterline, it's probably dried nutrient salts.
ok pic #1 yellow spots on 1 leaf..otherwise plant looks very healthy
pic #2 i need you to get YOUR glasses out for this one..if u look closely u can see the stem,but theres no leaves on the stem..just a stem growing!! WTF??
 

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Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
I'm on page 134. Been reading every thread for the past 4 days while home on breaks and such from work and play.
well, you're a glutton for punishment. :lol:

Should I add an additional fan at the attic level somewhere?
Good call. Air has mass and a column of it from basement to attic may benefit from another blower inline, the attic's a good place. Use a centrif blower on the exhaust down in the basement. If it's a good quality centrif, you might get away with only one, but leave room in your plans for a second blower. Also consider dumping air into the attic instead of through the roof. Will muffle fan noise and dissipate air through several existing attic vents.
If I do need to do this (adding the additional exit fan) and plan on having a inline carbon fliter on the room exhaust venting, would I want this before or after the filter.
You can get carbon filters which mount inline, but most have a duct flange on one end and pass air through the sides of the barrel. Filters of the latter type can have air pushed or pulled through them. For accessibility's sake, you'll probably want to have your filter in the room with the exhaust puling air through it.

(I'm saying carbon filter but I think its actualy the charcoal filter
The material is activated carbon aka activated charcoal. We know what you're talking about. ;)

Just don't make the mistake (like one poor noob a while back) of thinking the material was coal instead of charcoal. Bit of a difference. ;)
I'm seeing lots of different kinds of HPS lamps out there. What kind of qualities/attributes do I want to look for when selecting lamps. I know I want the reds and oranges, but is there more to it than that? Efficiency is important. watt/lumens. Anything else?
Most HPS lamps of a given power dissipation generate similar amounts of luminous output. The exception are the very cheapest Chinese generic HPS lamps, which can put out significantly lower output than you expect. Don't go with the very cheapest lamp tube if you can avoid it. Brand named lamps (GE, Sylvania, Sunmaster, etc) will deliver good durability and will make the output you expect.

I really like your drawings you have. They really help a lot. Your grow room looks pretty efficent and well maintained and organized. I was wondering if you would do a blue print type drawing of your SOG op.
I'm nobody's idea of an artist or a draftsman, so this is as close to what you want as you're gonna get!



The width dimension is about 9', the depth is about 8' and the room is about 7' from floor to ceiling. I've only showed the plants schematically. The mum tray holds 10 plants, each flowering tray holds 23. The clonebox is located outside the grow room.

There seems to be a good debate on MH vs T5s on cloning and vegging. I totally understand the cloning reasons for using these types.
There's no debate, at least among people who know their lighting. I would not mess around with T5s. They may be relatively bright fluoros but they're still fluoros, so they have pissweak intensity compared to any HID light- no matter what any well-sold T5 evangelist will tell you. They're too big for a clonebox and not powerful enough to grow mums with the speed and vigor I need. They perform poorly in lumens/watt compared to HID lighting.

You'll get much more bang for your buck (both purchase and operating cost) from a small MH or HPS for veg. Clones don't need to be pounded with light, so CFLs or 24" cylindrical fluoros are fine for the clonebox.

What strategies do you suggest on obtaining the seeds?
Times have changed since I last ordered beans, which was back in 2002. Customs is intercepting beans much more regularly these days. I had mine sent to the house of a non-growing friend who had just moved into a new place. The beans were addressed in the name of the previous occupant and when received, put on a shelf for a while. In case anyone came knocking, the cover story was that the pkg was received and since not addressed to the current occupant, were due to be RTSed, but simply had not been posted just yet.

I was hoping they would turn out better than CFLs... but I am not too disappointed....
Ah, OK, now I remember. I would have expected better out of them too, but as you note, those are among the very lowest output HID lights you can get. I usually would not recommend using anything smaller than a 150HPS.
hey al what are your thoughts on using UVA-UVB to increase thc production? i have never heard any conclusive results on this.
That's because there are no conclusive results on the issue. Presently classed as 'wives' tale.' Most plants which make a sticky substance or neurotoxins/psychoactives do so to dissuade browsing animals or marauding insects. Cannabis is indigenous to temperate latitudes where UV levels are not very high. It's hard to argue that the plant makes resin or the THC in the resin as a response to UV exposure at such latitudes.

also some one told me that if you remove the glass sheilding in a hallogen work light(i know they cant be used for growth) and expose the radiation from it to ur plants for 10 mins a day it is effective what do u think about this?
Chalk another bit of bad info to 'someone told me.' Patently bad idea. Halogen lighting doesn't make any UV, with or without glass covers. Halogen lighting is incandescent, meaning it makes light from a hot wire. The main output from halogen (>80%) is IR heat and red-yellow spectrum visible light. If you want UV, you need lighting that produces light from an arc, not a glowing filament. HPS & MH make lots of UV, but MH makes about 2x as much as HPS.

I would not waste any time or money adding UV lighting to a grow until someone comes up with some conclusive, peer-reviewed data proving that cannabis responds in any way at all to UV, and at present, such does not exist.

ok pic #1 yellow spots on 1 leaf..otherwise plant looks very healthy
Looks overwatered. I see saturated RW, too.
pic #2 i need you to get YOUR glasses out for this one..if u look closely u can see the stem,but theres no leaves on the stem..just a stem growing!! WTF??
I can't see anything but a partly saturated RW cube. With no leaves, it won't last long.
 

davedub69

Active Member
Al, thanks again for all the killer info. that you pass onto us!! :clap: I was curious if you had any new ideas for your grows to increase yield or make things easier/simpler? I would guess adding Co2 would be next addition if the additional cost of A/C wasn't an issue.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
If I was going to add anything to my op, yes, CO2/aircon would be next. I have not been able to justify the cost of doing those to date, but may sometime in future.
 

Return of the Spork

Well-Known Member
Hey Al,

I was hoping you could use your experience to guesstimate something for me.

Setup info in case any is useful...
Code:
Lighting is 400W MH in Cooltube (flowering will be 400W HPS)
Nutes currently at 1.5 EC
I use 1.7ml/L of 35% h2o2
Lighting is on 18/6
Temps tend to hover around 23-25C
Strain is Jack Herer
~6 weeks old, preflowers ablazin'
Bout 30cm tall
I have 75cm from top of medium to closest I would want them to the light. I was planning on taking my first clones next week or the week after. How big should the clones be to estimate a max 75cm final height?

I imagine I wouldn't get as much vertical growth as yours due to lighting alone, but in your experience, when you take shorter clones, do they still grow at a similar rate based off the initial height? (like 2x, 3x, etc). I could be wrong but I think I remember you saying something about taking clones 9inches or so and ending at a meter? Is that about right?

The fork in me (and my wallet) says to clone as soon as I can, and the spoon in me says to wait till they are like 20cm. If my cut locations are correct, the biggest clones would be about 12cm long at the moment.

But hell, from the pic you might just tell me to wait another month at least as is, haha.

I marked where I assume I should be cutting when the time comes, if I am way off I am sure you will tell me.




 

Hydrokronics

Well-Known Member
Hey Al, I was hoping you could help me out with a co2 issue. I got a hydrofarm regulator kit and the distribution tube didnt have any pre-drilled holes in it and there was nothing about it in the instructions. I just need to know what size holes there should be and how far apart i should make them. I dont want there to be a pressure issue or there to be any reason why im not getting the full potential from my co2 system. Thanks for your time
 

grandpabear3

New Member
'sup with the elite super snob badge that you said you didnt need or want a while back when i asked you about it??????? have you gone over to the dark side??????
 

sparkafire

Well-Known Member
'sup with the elite super snob badge that you said you didnt need or want a while back when i asked you about it??????? have you gone over to the dark side??????
Very interesting point bugs!! I didn't even notice that Al had been knighted Sir Fuct...:clap: I am on bended knee Sir ABF :-P

And that's bended knee Al Not KNEES!!!!
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
How big should the clones be to estimate a max 75cm final height?
I haven't flowered with a 400 in some years, but you can't go too far wrong if you cut them to 100-150mm.

I imagine I wouldn't get as much vertical growth as yours due to lighting alone,
agreed.

but in your experience, when you take shorter clones, do they still grow at a similar rate based off the initial height? (like 2x, 3x, etc).
Yes, they ought to finish up about 3x the starting height.

I could be wrong but I think I remember you saying something about taking clones 9inches or so and ending at a meter? Is that about right?
Well remembered. That's how it's been working.

The fork in me (and my wallet) says to clone as soon as I can, and the spoon in me says to wait till they are like 20cm. If my cut locations are correct, the biggest clones would be about 12cm long at the moment.
Works for me. Run with it.

I marked where I assume I should be cutting when the time comes, if I am way off I am sure you will tell me.

is there a larger version of that pic around somewhere?


Hey Al, I was hoping you could help me out with a co2 issue. I got a hydrofarm regulator kit and the distribution tube didnt have any pre-drilled holes in it and there was nothing about it in the instructions. I just need to know what size holes there should be and how

far apart i should make them. I dont want there to be a pressure issue or there to be any reason why im not getting the full potential from my co2 system. Thanks for your time
Good question. I really don't know, mainly because I don't know the amt of pressure downstream from your reg and how many holes you could potentially make. I'd inquire of Hydrofarm and see what they say.

I'd be inclined to start with small holes (.5mm) every 150mm and see if you still get flow from the holes furthest from the reg.

At the end of the day, you can't stuff it up too badly if you have circ fans going in the room. The CO2 will be homogenised into the room airmass and be everywhere anyway.
'sup with the elite super snob badge that you said you didnt need or want a while back when i asked you about it??????? have you gone over to the dark side??????
I wanted the 'elite' features for being able to see who left rep comments. I asked rollie if I could have the features without the 'elite' badge, but he'd have had to have done some template refrobbing to suit it, which I agreed was too much work.

I got this little bit of vengeful sweetness from some butthurt clown who I pwned, who is so stung by losing an argument to me that now he's gotta leave nasty anon rep comments. He thought he'd remain anonymous... he thought wrong.

quick drying - the... 10-16-2008 03:01 AM Greymattertripp Your advice is lame, your ganj must suck balls
Anonymous no more, trollfag. :lol:

You know what to do, folks. ;)
 

flamdrags420

Well-Known Member
thanks for reading through my long post above and responding to my comments and questions. I'll be back again in a month or so to ask more, but always will be reading and taking notes.
 

Smallsetup

Well-Known Member
Hey Al B. I've been checkin out your posts for a while now.. Was just curious if you could help me out with a zinc deficiency i'm having. I'm running a homemade aero setup with AN Sensi grow, Hygrozyme, Superthrive and GH Subculture. I'm getting yellowing on the leaves and the look dull. The veins are still green, the plants arent wilting and they are still growing.. I've been reading up and everything i see points to zinc. I looked at the "guaranteed analysis" on my nutes and I don't see any chelated zinc. I used to used Flora Nutes and those did have it. My question is, How can I correct this without changing my nutes? Any additives that you know of? Thanks for any help you can give! :wall:
 
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