Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Cool, sounds like a 400HPS is the tool for the job.
Mine's not really huge; I used an old plywood shipping container, about 1m H x 800mm W x 600mm D. However, you could scale my clonebox to whatever size suits you, as long as there's room for your lighting, heat mat, etc.The box size isn't at all critical.
I run my cooltubed 1000s at about 300mm from the nearest leaves. Cooltubes really do an amazing job. Without them, I'd not put them closer than about 500-600mm.
hi there.
"sulfur vaporizer" is a MUCH better term for the device. I'l be using that term from now on, thanks for that.a freind of mine had the impression that his sulfur vaporizer (same as yours) had to be on for 4 hours a day, And you saved him.
Good to hear you mob dodged a bullet. 4h/day would have been disastrous.
Mine did not have ANY instructions included with it, not even in Chinglish.
Yep, that's one more reason why I use tray-based flood systems to water plants in pots of media. Much more flexibility in plant numbers, aside from easy plant mobility within the op, so slow plants can be placed in better light positions or can be picked up and turned around for maintenance.First in a similar setup like yours but with 2 gallon ebb and gro buckets would it be feasible to put 2 "zero veg" plants into the same pot on either side? split it in 2 kind of? Im just asking because i see quite a bit of room and im sure the roots would figure something out
Regardless, you have what you have, so let's run with it.
2 SoG pruned plants in each of the 2 gallon buckets would be fine- you might be able to do 4 per. Nope, can't get AN here in Australia. Any bloom enhancer that really works is going to be P & K based. Beware additives that include anything else. I'm still trying to get some good data out of Canna for the use of their PK-13-14 (NPK 0-13-14) additive- I keep cooking plants with the stuff at half their recommended application rate. I DID get an email from a feller at Canna's Aus distributor last night, have yet to follow up with that, but hopefully I'll be able to shed some light on that soon.
Use care with grower anecdotes about any product unless you can see photos of a parallel comparison, some plants grown with the product and some controls without, in the same crop.
Well thanks, but I like my lemons to taste like lemons and my cannabis to taste like cannabis.3. Ever heard of the strain c4? If you havent you should find it, and maybe its time to think about switching strains because this strain would explode in SOG, (soon to be proven) and it < smells like lemonz
I chose Sweet Tooth #4 after growing LOTS of different strains; Big Bud, Power Plant, White Widow, Northern Lights, Skunk #1, a WW & Sk1 hybrid called White Skunk, a reverse parentage hybrid of those two called Skunk Widow, AK47, Legends Ultimate Indica (LUI) and several others. ST4 has a great flavour, solid indica high, is a very heavy producer, but most importantly, is very mould resistant, a critically important trait in SoG ops.
I'm certainly open to trying new strains, but even ordering beans is a serious task that requires a lot of planning (maildrop addy, etc). I have lately (last 12 mos) heard about beans being seized by Aus Customs very frequently... but worst, cops are following up with knock-n-talks with growers stupid enough to order beans to their home addy. I'll keep my ears open for more about C4. If I see some SoG grows using it with some success, I'm happy to have a go.
Mind you, there's very little yield difference between the very highest producing strains (LUI, Sk1, other primarily indica hybrids). Be careful about hype. Look for growers who are trying a certain strain alongside others in the same op & crop, to get a decent comparison. Too many conditions can change between serial batches of different strains to get a valid comparison. Gotta be side-by-side.
I ran 175mm x 175mm pots (about 4L) of RW floc in my flood systems for years. It can be watered 1x/day for small plants (wk 1-2 flowering) or 2x/day for more advanced, vigorous plants. Advanced, mature mother plants being raised under HID lighting, with very substantial root systems compared to the amount of media volume, can tolerate 3x/day.
Yes, it's common for soil to hold much more water than hydroponic media, but that's not really a good thing. It limits the watering frequency. By the time there's enough water removed from soil to tolerate watering again, the water from the last watering will have lost all its dissolved O2. Hydroponics produces more vigorous, faster plants because less absorbent media is used, so to be able to introduce freshly oxygenated nute soln more often.
You can choose media with differing levels of absorbency depending upon how you want to grow. I used RW floc so I could skip looking in on the op every day. It holds so much water that it will get even a vigorous plant through a day even in the event of a pump/timer failure. Clay pellets, which hold almost no water and have large air gaps between the pellets, can be watered several times per lights-on, starting with about 5x/day for clones just introduced to pots of pellets, up to every 2H (avoiding watering in the last 2h of lights-on) for advanced, mature plants. Keep in mind that if you clone in RW cubes and want to use pellets, the cube must be nested in pellets so it is 1/2" above the flood level.
I'll try to act shocked.5. I was also tricked into using molasses for a while, my pet fruit flies loved it but my plants didnt seem to react to it
Use yellow sticky card traps to control adult gnats. When potting up new plants, you can drop the pot into a knee-hi stocking and secure it around the stem with a small, gentle rubber band. Putting a stocking on already infested plants will at least keep them in that pot until you can get rid of it.
Sulfur & UV will have no effect on insect pests. A 10-30,000ppm blast of CO2 for about 2-3h will kill all bugs in the room. Humans can safely tolerate 30,000ppm for up to 15 mins without a respirator. You might buy a big chunk of dry ice for such a one-time application rather than investing in a tank & reg.7. ( i know, so many, im sorry) To keep spider mites out of my op completely (had them recently grr) what do you reccomend? Running the sulfur burner for longer? getting a UV filter etc? I just want to make sure that even if they get in they will be dead within a day. without hurting my precious babies
If I saw a plant going to mould, I'd have chopped it instantly- then would have went looking for why I was getting mould on plants.
Mould can kill plants; grey mould (botyritis) will literally liquefy buds and leave you with a chunk of grey, powdery yuk.
Depends on what you mean by 'internally.' Mould won't occur inside of the vascular tissues of a plant. Most moulds need exposure to air. It's common to find mould between the bracts in a bud, but not inside the plant tissues per se.
Could be thrips. Thrips suck sap from leaves by piercing the leaf from the underside They cause telltale silvery spots n the upper leaf surface. They're very small and are hard to see without magnification. Get a jeweller's loupe.
yikes.10. (im sorry to get all the way to 10 but this is like having an interview with jorge cervantes
yep. The plants will very likely already be suffering a bit of shock if any significant portion of the rootmass was damaged when he cut the slab apart, but saturating the remaining RW 5x/day will make the destruction complete. The roots, which are already having to recover, will regenerate slowly if at all in overwet conditions.
Thanks, I do what I can.Your helpfulness to the community restores my faith in humanity, Which usually comes and goes as it likes
Hope autumn is welcome up yonder. 
Damn, that thing would make a righteous coffee warmer. 
