Almost to harvest and spider mites

Hotrod2 said:

Don't spider mites mostly feed on the buds?

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I find they are sucking insects - destroying leaf matter with stippling damage. But they can web all over plant.
They do seek out the main top points of plant. But often getting stuck in the buds ( triches )


Seen pics of harvested / hung upside down branches have the mites concentrate at top of branch. Crawled to the very top.

Like this

Does rubbing alcohol kill spider mites?
Rubbing alcohol kills spider mites because it will penetrate their waxy coating and damage them. Use a spray solution of one part alcohol to seven parts water and spray both the top and underside of your plants leaves twice weekly to fix the infestation.

Signs that your plant is infested with spider mites is the appearance of stippled, yellow weak leaves. If the infestation is bad, you can mix a stronger solution of one part alcohol to four parts water depending on your plant’s tolerance.

I use plant therapy even right before harvest. It works well, and from what they say no residual leftover, and i couldn't tell the difference either.

I've found that you have to be super vigilant from the 3rd week of vegetarian until the point when your white haired ladies are just starting to get their first actual terpenes. Check every plant with a torch and a magnifier. Such as you may use for electronics. Search for any pin marks of spider mites, moth caterpillars, mould thrips and white fly. If the insects secretly infest (and it can get out of control very quick) it's not just the waste. It is the most valuable thing in the world to anybody that you lose. TIME! It is wasting that time and having to start again that is the worst thing to lose. Don't get sucked into the newest, shiniest, clever way of growing. I was sucked in by a salesman at a hydroponic store. All I wanted was cloning cubes. Instead he sold me a system of which I wasn't comfortable. Because I was so distracted by learning the stupid aerogro thing. I had pipes in the way and to get in and examine my ladies properly was a dance. Anyway the bugs settled in. I tore out the $3000.00+ garbage setup. Then I went and bought fresh soil, coir and aeration balls. If someone tells you it's going to make it easier chances are they're lying. Not easier. Just different. I lost my rhythm of my daily checklist. So summing it up. Take your time. Be patient. It's not a lazy person's hobby. Not if you want Top Shelf, better than everybody else's product. Nobody will understand the work you put in to get that "Wow" factor. But keeping them in a perfect health and environment for the first 7 weeks is the key I've found.

Budzbuddha said:

Does rubbing alcohol kill spider mites?
Rubbing alcohol kills spider mites because it will penetrate their waxy coating and damage them. Use a spray solution of one part alcohol to seven parts water and spray both the top and underside of your plants leaves twice weekly to fix the infestation.

Signs that your plant is infested with spider mites is the appearance of stippled, yellow weak leaves. If the infestation is bad, you can mix a stronger solution of one part alcohol to four parts water depending on your plant’s tolerance.

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All my plants have been totally fine with a 50-50 spray. ISO is getting crazy expensive anymore though.

Hotrod2 said:

Don't spider mites mostly feed on the buds?

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No. Spider mites feed on the vein of the leaves from underneath. Which is why they are such a bitch if you haven't spotted them and treated them early. If I get any I treat them with Mite Rid. It's quite potent and has a terrible taste to it...but it fucks them up quick. 1ml in a 2litre spray bottle is enough to do my 8ft x 4ft tent. They say on the instructions to only use it once per week. After the first good dosing I will spray lightly again in 4 or 5 days. Then in another 4 or 5 days hit the whole lot again with about a 60% strength. If you see any signs again hit them again. If you haven't killed the bastards by then something is wrong.

There's citric acid spray too. 1-3 tsp per quart. I usually do 2. Can be a little harsh though sometimes. Sometimes I rinse it off with plain water after 45 minutes of so. That way it's a little milder.

Most of the oil and soap type sprays kill by suffocation, so you have to be sure that the "Borg" are completely wetted by it. Insects don't have lungs, they feed oxygen directly into their bodies through a system of tiny little pipes all over their bodies called malpighian tubules. Plug the tubules with oil/soap, dead bug! It takes as little as 5 days for a new generation to hatch and be laying eggs, however, the oils don't work on the eggs, so multiple applications are necessary.

I once tried the chilli powder, garlic and boiled cigarette butts. That stunk pretty badly. These days there's pretty good stuff that fucks em up hard and fast. Even putting diatomaceous earth on the top of your soil and down the bottom of your pots. The silicate strips the protective coating off insects and slices them to bits. Don't buy it from a gardening or hydroponic store though. For the same price as 2kg from one of them you can buy 20kg from a livery (horses, cowes, chickens) supply. Food grade quality.

Mr Lizard said:

I once tried the chilli powder, garlic and boiled cigarette butts.

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Nicotine is a very good insecticide.

Phytoplankton said:

Nicotine is a very good insecticide.

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Yes, its done wonders for my lungs.

Spider mites and how to kill them . Ok I’m going on 4 weeks tried several sprays . What I realize is spraying moms or plants in veg work great . In bloom not soo much plus you could ruin taste even though products say friendly up to harvest. So i did some research and tried co2 unfortunately my troll master only goes to 10115 ppm . The research says over 10,000 is good but also I see 12,000 to 15,000. So once my reading hit 10115 I left 20pd tank open an extra minute to make sure I’m good and closer to 15,000. This will not hurt your plants with lights off because they won’t absorb extra nitrogen. After one hour or two exhaust out and add fresh air till
You get it to a safe number. I have troll master on my phone so I can watch it till it’s safe
To return. The goal is five days in a row so you kill all mites and any eggs that hatch.I’m on day three and already noticed a huge difference I will go the five days and see if it works and repost my results .

You got enough time to use neem,
Wash with a dawn solution for less invasive treatment.
If absolutly need make bho mite bodys wont pass though a filter

VaSmile said:

You got enough time to use neem,
Wash with a dawn solution for less invasive treatment.
If absolutly need make bho mite bodys wont pass though a filter

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I’ve used lost coast for three days then used water and soap then a day with regalia plus grandevo or revenerate by maroon products . Also used can bomb all from Gro generation i worked there for seven months learned a lot about what products work. I’m too far in bloom to keep using Sprays so I’m trying co2 for first time and if it works add it to my arsenal.

I also understand what your saying

Spinosad. Kills everything including mites and budworms. Doesn't affect the flavor, can be used on buds, safe for humans and animals. I've tried neem and other methods but they DO cause flavor issues and are not as effective as Spinosad

I’ve read several people mention of being able to suck up mites/webs from your buds with a vacuum hose. It’s worth a try.

I second the spinosad when in flower, Ive used it with good results, they eat it and then its their last meal. They usually dies where their last meal was. I mix it a little stronger too. Spider Mites are a real bitch, use the vacume and get as many as you can. They make shop vac extensions that are 8 inches long and tapered to a hole about a half inch wide or so that I found to work a little better for getting in tight spots, it can attach to a regular vacume too. Good luck.

Haha just noticed this thread is from last December. Anyways good info on here for spider mites.