Amps, Volts, and Watts understanding your power bill

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
Amps, Volts and Watts: What it means for energy efficiency
3


If you’ve ever purchased any sort of electronic device for your home, odds are you’ve come across the terms amperage (amps), voltage (volts) and wattage (watts). But what exactly do all these terms mean, and why do they matter? In short, having an understanding of amps, volts and watts can help you save money on your monthly electric bill and be a more informed shopper. Check out the following guide to get a better understanding of what these terms mean and how they can impact your monthly electric bill.

A guide to understanding: amps, volts and watts
A good analogy for understanding what these terms mean is to think of them like water flowing through a hose. With that in mind let’s review the definitions for each of these terms.

Amps – This is the measure of how much electricity is flowing through an electrical line, which is like the amount of water flowing through a hose.

Volts – This is the measure of how strong or the force of electricity flowing through an electrical line, which is like the pressure of the water flowing through a hose. Most devices in the US are rated at 120 volts, with large appliances sometimes using 220 V, like clothes dryers. Effectively, this means those appliances can suck more power per minute than appliances rated at 120 V.

Watts – This is the result of multiplying amps and volts together (amps x volts = watts), which is the working capacity of the electricity.

Check out these videos to get a better idea of how amps, volts and watts work:


Now let’s take a look at how these three things are used around your home and how they impact your monthly electric bill:

Every month your electric company sends you a bill for the amount of electricity that you use, and this is determined by the amount of kilowatts (1 kilowatt = 1,000watts) your home consumes. Therefore, the more amps and volts your electronics and appliances require to operate, the higher your monthly electric bill will be. It’s just that simple.

It’s important to note that even when some of your appliances and electronics are “turned off” they could still be drawing a small amount of power (watts). This is referred to as either vampire power or a phantom load, and these extra watts will add money to your monthly electric bill. It’s a good idea to go around your home with a watt-meter and identify which of your appliances are drawing this phantom power. Once you’ve identified them, try installing a smart strip or unplugging them all together when they’re not in use. This will reduce your home’s phantom load and save you money every month!
http://greenlivingideas.com/2014/09/24/amps-volts-and-watts/
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
Damn, you have the short term memory of a squirrel:)

Hopefully YOU read and comprehend the basics laid out there. High amperage= low voltage, low amperage =high voltage....... the bill generally stays the same, charged by watts used in a given time! You think the power company is stupid?
 
Last edited:

CannaBruh

Well-Known Member
Therefore, the more amps and volts your electronics and appliances require to operate, the higher your monthly electric bill will be. It’s just that simple.
If it's so simple then why did you try to convince us that it was AMPS that are measured only at the meter?

Stick to the thread you already created instead of polluting the internet with more bullshit.
 

Goerilla

Member
Well. I have a lifetime of proff work with electricity and off cause I know all about what watt, volts and amp, is but the way you explain it I almost don´t understand it anymore.
It was a really bad explanation and I bet very confusing for the people who don´t already know.
 

SPLFreak808

Well-Known Member
No, do you know what happens when you cram too much current through a long/small conductor?

Heat is the enemy when it comes to electrical efficiency, using a dryer on 120vac will use MORE (if not the same) power than a dryer on 220/240vac.
 

CannaBruh

Well-Known Member
No, do you know what happens when you cram too much current through a long/small conductor?
Fire

Heat is the enemy when it comes to electrical efficiency, using a dryer on 120vac will use MORE (if not the same) power than a dryer on 220/240vac.
Current through a conductor causes some potential across that conductor proportional to the current, current goes up, voltage goes up, power goes up. I^2*R
 

amyg88

Well-Known Member
Fire


Current through a conductor causes some potential across that conductor proportional to the current, current goes up, voltage goes up, power goes up. I^2*R
Could you elaborate on that last point? For domestic purposes, wouldn't the difference be negligible with copper?
 

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
Could you elaborate on that last point? For domestic purposes, wouldn't the difference be negligible with copper?
Depends entirely on the gauge of the wire. You can google to find charts that will give you the resistance per foot for any gauge wire. That info allows you to calculate wire losses for a given load current.

For instance, if you have 14 gauge wire(minimum build standard for household 120VAC circuits), its resistance is about .0025 ohms per foot. At a typical max load of 15 amps, it works out to .56W per foot of wire. So on a standard household (120VAC) 15A circuit if the load is 1800W, 40 feet from the breaker panel, the wire losses will be a little over 21W, about 1.1% of the load wattage. Over the same wires, if 240V supply is used, the current will be cut in half and the wire loss will be reduced to .14W per foot. At 40 ft, the wire loss becomes 5.68W or 0.3% of the 1800W load.

That's where the difference comes from - wire losses. But those losses are generally small anyway (unless the electrician did a shoddy job and undersized the wiring), and the difference is pretty negligible until you get into very long wire runs.
 

The Dawg

Well-Known Member
Damn, you have the short term memory of a squirrel:)

Hopefully YOU read and comprehend the basics laid out there. High amperage= low voltage, low amperage =high voltage....... the bill generally stays the same, charged by watts used in a given time! You think the power company is stupid?
 
Top