anyone know anything about t8's?

shrxhky420

Well-Known Member
Hey Ssean, I go on record now, I am new to this shit so just make sure to get a second opinion, also there is a lot of info on this site you just have to be creative with you searches. check this link out
http://www.ehow.com/i/#article_6472335
Basically t5s are more effective but more expensive. Now for veg those t8 fixtures will do well just make sure you're using the right color temp (6500k). That is what most use others mix there spectrum. As far as flowering with t8s everyone and there mother will tell you not to use. so I'm currently on my first grow, 28 days into flowering. My set up started with 1 40 watt t12 bulb. A buddy of mine ended up giving me 8 2 bulb t8/t12 fixtures. I use 2 fixtures for veg. 2 t8 bulbs (32 watt bulbs) and 2 t12 bulbs (40 watt bulbs) my plants did fine and new babies are doing fine along with 2 clones. As far as my flower box, after my research I decided to use cfls as well. So my lights in my flower box... shit ready for this, not me taking a hit first... ok ready, thnx for waiting. 4 t12s 40 watts 3000k, 4 t8s 32 watts 3000k, 2 t8s 32 watts 6500k (mixed spectrum just a lil) 1 cfl 32 watt 2700k, 2 cfls 42 watts 2700k, 3 cfls 40 watts 2700k, and 4 cfls 23 watts 2700k... whew total watts 680. Watts from tubes 352/watts from cfls 328. If you want to see 2 of my girls they are posted in the low watt cfl cartel. I know that's a lot of shit, but I hope it was some help. Again I'm not an expert! I hope ppl don't call me stupid. Good luck
 
i use t5s to start seedlings, but unless you have a bunch of them, they really don't produce enough lumens to flower much of anything, most of shrxhky's flowering is due to his 40ish watt cfls not the t8/12 bulbs, but the extra light definitely doesn't hurt
 

racerboy71

bud bootlegger
t5's and t8's and t12's all are great bulbs... i use some t5's for veg, and they work incredibly... i also use my t5 in conjunction with my hps for flowering for side lighting..
the major drawback to the all of the t light's is that they don't penetrate very far, meaning the further away from the source of light you get, your getting substantially less light than you do at the source of the light.. this is also what makes them good for vegetive growth and for clones as plants of that age aren't very tall, dense or thick.. so what light your getting from the t's, most of it is getting to your plants just fine..
the downfall of t's comes in during flowering when your plants will get bigger and bushier and much taller... this makes for distance for the light to travel, thus the light decreases more and more to reach the plants..
there are several things that you can do to help with this and make flowering with t's a better aspect... you can always use some training techniques to help keep the plants short and squat helping to keep the distance that the light has to travel down.. the first tech would be lst, or low stress training.. lst is just a form of training where one ties the plants down using what have you, usually string, to help halt vertical growth and to keep the plants shorter.. works great, and just takes some time to get the plant where you want it as you can only low stress train it so much before it turns into high stress training instead..
the second thing you can do is called supercropping.. supercropping is more of a high stress training method, where you simply take a branch between your thumb and forefinger and gently squeze it till you feel a slight pop, and then you simply bend the branch over at the point of the squeeze, which in turn shortens the plant to the point of the supercrop.. you can gain a lot of room according to where you supercropped at... this method also keeps the plants shorter, and again allowing for better light penetration.. and of course, you can always use both lst and supercropping together to get the best of both worlds..
 
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