I suck. I'm clearly the worst grower to walk the planet. My product sucks and wouldn't get a mouse high.
I didn't mean to be rude since I'm still a rookie I have alot to learn from you guys. I will change my post also I still enjoy your videos.
this is true, I have often contemplated dropping a naked vertical hps in my grows during winter ... But never did mostly because there are more efficient ways to generate heat than what is basically a filament bulb designed primarily for producing light.
If you are going for yield over quality there may be something to this. But you should be able to accomplish the same thing for free by allowing a higher canopy temp during flowering rather than adding IR. There are consequences to get that higher yield though, it takes longer to finish, reduced bud density and the some volatile terpenes can evap off or oxidise. Some varieties do not finish clean with higher canopy temps, foxtailing and or combination of mature and immature calyxs. Some varieties may not be as frosty. Definitely something worth experimenting with.
But, does the sun not provide IR?
Ya my HPS yields were abysmal, min .3 gpw, averaged .4 gpw, max .57 gpw. That was using 600W HPS bare, horizontal, cheap reflectors, 5 gal buckets organic soil, mid yielding varieties. And I admit, I was trying hard for several years. I mixed in some XTEs XPEs and immediately gpw jumped up and after phasing out the HPS for COB, min 1gpw, avg ~1.2 gpw, max 1.39 gpw.
That is a good point but I am not sure plants differentiate between IR (radiant heat) and ambient canopy temp (convective/conductive heat). I suspect that spending any watts on radiant IR would be a double waste because we have to pay to remove that heat, but I am open to being proven wrong.
I don't think anything is about proving right or wrong.
Right, I just need to qualify that is just my opinion at this point of experimentation and subject to change. Very interested to hear others opinions and experiences on the matter.I don't think anything is about proving right or wrong.
There seems to be more than one way of getting to the end result.
I am just glad so many here on this forum are willing to opening share the findings of their experiments so we can all work through different scenarios and find what is best for our needs
That would be a great experiment for a university or a grower with the resources and space to conduct.
Hmm, but you are also forgetting with that heat often comes high humidity...high humidity and higher temps makes for a better growing plant itself, and seeking to keep that veg enviroment for the first couple of weeks is good, but with higher humidity comes less quality as its not just the light, trichomes protect against, but also predators, and more importantly to my point, dry arid conditions. We seek to cultivate trichomes specifically as that's what gets you high, so that's why people add the Ir at the end and why they seek to get the humidity as low as possible
who adds IR at the end ? after initial stretch I add Far Red at 730nm, but not Infra red.
Indoors man, I'm talking indoors...or even narrow-leaf vs easy to get mold broad-leaf....believe me, I'm used to humidity, and no real winter....and again, indoor should always be potentially better than outdoor IMHO@vitamin_green_inc
"but with higher humidity comes less quality as its not just the light, trichomes protect against, but also predators, and more importantly to my point, dry arid conditions"
So many cannabis capitals have humid environments.
Humidity. Jamaica
Relative humidity (%): morning and afternoon annual averages
Place am. pm
Kingston8167
Morant Point85 79
Port Antonio87. 78
Cinchona Gardens86 85
AVERAGE HUMIDITY OVER THE YEAR
The mean monthly relative humidity in Mzuzu, Malawi.
I always add at least 10% to HPS electric cost when figuring gpw
