Aphid? Best way to get rid

Renfro

Well-Known Member
VectoBac is what I used in my top fed recirculating system. Just add it to a fresh res. Res change a week later & they were gone, & if they aren’t, just add it again at res change time
Thats just a BTI based product like Gnatrol or Mosquito Dunks. Good for fungus gnats but I highly doubt that it will be effective against aphids.
 

Darkoh69

Well-Known Member
Thats just a BTI based product like Gnatrol or Mosquito Dunks. Good for fungus gnats but I highly doubt that it will be effective against aphids.
It is effective against ROOT aphids & fungus gnats in larval state la
 
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Renfro

Well-Known Member
It is effective against ROOT aphids & fungus gnats in larval state la
It may be moderately effective as a preventative but once the population has advanced to the state of leaf crawlers and fliers that can start shitting out live clones of themselves we are well beyond the point of BTI being effective.

An advanced infestation on a broad scale is going to require a much stronger systemic approach to even stand a chance of eliminating the problem.

Growers have had to totally nuke the grow to get rid of these damn things. They are very resilient and have the ability to reproduce in multiple ways at different stages of existence. Add to that there are so many different species of aphid. IMO they are bigger problem than spider mites or broad/russet mites.
 

Darkoh69

Well-Known Member
It may be moderately effective as a preventative but once the population has advanced to the state of leaf crawlers and fliers that can start shitting out live clones of themselves we are well beyond the point of BTI being effective.

An advanced infestation on a broad scale is going to require a much stronger systemic approach to even stand a chance of eliminating the problem.

Growers have had to totally nuke the grow to get rid of these damn things. They are very resilient and have the ability to reproduce in multiple ways at different stages of existence. Add to that there are so many different species of aphid. IMO they are bigger problem than spider mites or broad/russet mites.
Dont get me wrong Im all for nuken em, & if anyone spots the issue & watches it though to infestation they should consider a different hobby. In my situation, 16 30 litre buckets in buckets recirculating to a 300 litre res on a 12 week veg to harvest rotation, unloading my nuclear arsenal into my reservoir would have adverse affects on my water chemistry. A week of hard & heavy pest control will add at least 4 weeks to a cycle not to mention loss of product quality from the stress of manhandling. Be better off torching them & starting again. So from my experience I can say the bacillus will quickly sort the problem of pests in roots growing in water without harming the plants.
 
It may be moderately effective as a preventative but once the population has advanced to the state of leaf crawlers and fliers that can start shitting out live clones of themselves we are well beyond the point of BTI being effective.

An advanced infestation on a broad scale is going to require a much stronger systemic approach to even stand a chance of eliminating the problem.

Growers have had to totally nuke the grow to get rid of these damn things. They are very resilient and have the ability to reproduce in multiple ways at different stages of existence. Add to that there are so many different species of aphid. IMO they are bigger problem than spider mites or broad/russet mites.
I just went to a hydro store and they only had this Monterey once a year insect control ii with the active ingredient imidacloprid but at 1.47 percent where at the mallet 2f you recommended has about 20 percent in it. Will this Monterey work? Guy at the hydro store said it’s pretty effective. I’ve also ordered dominion 2L which has the same percentage as mallet 2f but I’m afraid the percentage of imidacloprid is too high it will kill my plants? Is it safe to say that drenching the medium with dominion 2L won’t kill my plants? I had to settle with ordering dominion 2L online because they don’t sell mallet 2f in California.5473F33A-E9D8-44A0-8126-F8C4C97D58FF.jpeg
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
I just went to a hydro store and they only had this Monterey once a year insect control ii with the active ingredient imidacloprid but at 1.47 percent where at the mallet 2f you recommended has about 20 percent in it. Will this Monterey work? Guy at the hydro store said it’s pretty effective. I’ve also ordered dominion 2L which has the same percentage as mallet 2f but I’m afraid the percentage of imidacloprid is too high it will kill my plants? Is it safe to say that drenching the medium with dominion 2L won’t kill my plants? I had to settle with ordering dominion 2L online because they don’t sell mallet 2f in California.View attachment 4789654
It's the same stuff imidacloprid so it should work fine, just figure out how much to mix up. The Mallet is like 21.4% Imidacloprid, this stuff is 1.47% so I can imagine you will need more.
 
It's the same stuff imidacloprid so it should work fine, just figure out how much to mix up. The Mallet is like 21.4% Imidacloprid, this stuff is 1.47% so I can imagine you will need more.
I got this I’ll let you all know how it goes thanks for the info image.jpg
 

chex1111

Well-Known Member
I would still make sure to drench each site, in the case of root aphids you can often observe them hanging out on the pot rims to avoid the application.
I think they come in the pro-mix here. I have noticed that there are lots of weed seeds germinating from improper sterilization. I think they have escaped into the peat bogs in Canada, where winter temperatures remain warm due to decomposition.
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
I think they come in the pro-mix here. I have noticed that there are lots of weed seeds germinating from improper sterilization. I think they have escaped into the peat bogs in Canada, where winter temperatures remain warm due to decomposition.
I have had that problem with Promix HP bales in the past myself. I went away from Promix like 4 years ago because of that issue. Many other growers that frequent the same grow store had made similar observations with the aphids. So I think you are correct with the Promix being the source.
 

chex1111

Well-Known Member
I have had that problem with Promix HP bales in the past myself. I went away from Promix like 4 years ago because of that issue. Many other growers that frequent the same grow store had made similar observations with the aphids. So I think you are correct with the Promix being the source.
Hey thanks, nice to hear back form a pro.
Yeah, with the corporate takeover in Canada I wonder if these "spiked bales," as it were, are really an accident? Monsanto/Bayer has bought pure blend fert and Gavita, I wonder if a puppet company has bought pro-mix too help eliminate the home grower?
Funny how the cure comes from the same source as the disease? I must be a paranoid android.
 
So I’ve been foliar spraying and too feeding drenching the 6x6 cubes with .5 ml/gal of dominion 2L and it’s been working well I can definently see it working there are less bugs. Hopefully over time I can eliminate them all. I tried pulling apart one of my grow cubes and couldn’t really find any of the aphids in there; this cube was from one of the cubes that I just cut down 998721C4-8444-482E-888B-57C93158F74F.jpeg57492009-BA29-490A-8778-F4ED2A40ACD3.jpeg
 

plumsmooth

Well-Known Member
0.5 mL per gallon
I want to do a soak of my inner buckets with Hydroton in my RDWC with the 21% strength. Should I leave it in there at .5 Ml per gallon or just a nice 5 minute full dunk and then change and or flush and change the nutrient solution?
 
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