Aphid problem.
- Thread starter Warzardo
- Start date
Southerner
Well-Known Member
Spinosad will kill them and it is said you can use it up till a day before a harvest(so they say). I think neem might effect the quality of your buds at this point, but it wont make them poisonous or anything. A homemade hot pepper spray would also be an option Anything you spray at this point is not that great for the buds, but do what you have to do to save your plants. Add some yellow sticky traps or even neem meal on top of the soil and it can help a little too.
foxfarmdude
New Member
For future reference put a layer of sand on top of your soil...it has always helped me..
chairroller
Active Member
chairroller
Active Member
Early detection is the key to reducing aphid infestations. The flight of winged colonizers cannot be predicted, so weekly examination of plants will help to determine the need for control.
Examine the bud area and undersides of the new leaves for clusters or colonies of small aphids. The presence of these colonies indicates that the aphids are established on the plants and their numbers will begin to increase rapidly.
Fatty acid salts or insecticidal soaps are very good against aphids. They apparently work to disrupt insect cell membranes. They require direct contact with the insects and leave no residual effect.
Nervous system insecticides, such as malathion, Dursban (chlorpyrifos), and Orthene (acephate), are labeled for use on many shade trees and ornamental plants for aphid control.
As with soaps, coverage is very important and a follow-up application may be necessary. Sevin (carbaryl) is not effective against many aphids so it is generally not a good choice for control unless recommended specifically.
In fact, applications of Sevin may reduce the number of beneficial insects, such as lady beetles, and increase the potential for aphid outbreaks.
Beneficial insects, such as lady beetles, lady bugs, and lacewings may eat large numbers of aphids but the reproductive capability of aphids is so great that the impact of the natural enemies may not be enough keep these insects at or below acceptable levels.
To keep aphids and other pests off your plants just finely chop1 onion and 2 medium cloves of garlic. Put ingredients into a blender with 2 cups of water and blend on high. Strain out pulp.
Pour liquid into spray bottle. Spray a fine mist on plants, making sure to coat both tops and bottoms of leaves.
GOOD LUUUUCK !
Examine the bud area and undersides of the new leaves for clusters or colonies of small aphids. The presence of these colonies indicates that the aphids are established on the plants and their numbers will begin to increase rapidly.
Fatty acid salts or insecticidal soaps are very good against aphids. They apparently work to disrupt insect cell membranes. They require direct contact with the insects and leave no residual effect.
Nervous system insecticides, such as malathion, Dursban (chlorpyrifos), and Orthene (acephate), are labeled for use on many shade trees and ornamental plants for aphid control.
As with soaps, coverage is very important and a follow-up application may be necessary. Sevin (carbaryl) is not effective against many aphids so it is generally not a good choice for control unless recommended specifically.
In fact, applications of Sevin may reduce the number of beneficial insects, such as lady beetles, and increase the potential for aphid outbreaks.
Beneficial insects, such as lady beetles, lady bugs, and lacewings may eat large numbers of aphids but the reproductive capability of aphids is so great that the impact of the natural enemies may not be enough keep these insects at or below acceptable levels.
To keep aphids and other pests off your plants just finely chop1 onion and 2 medium cloves of garlic. Put ingredients into a blender with 2 cups of water and blend on high. Strain out pulp.
Pour liquid into spray bottle. Spray a fine mist on plants, making sure to coat both tops and bottoms of leaves.
GOOD LUUUUCK !