Autoflower Thread & Resource Guide
- Thread starter KolorBlind
- Start date
surfhead
Well-Known Member
no i got slightly bigger buds on 18 /6 but so much else comes in to play , some strains do better 20/4 like my ultraviolets , so as long as you pick one stay with that cycle all the way and its fine ! 16 -18 inches tall .that was soil dr earth , just switching over to try a hempy grow !
rob hands
Member
hi i saw this question that was posted a long time ago and was wondering is theres any better answers now
thanks
Autoflower not flowering - a question
yo fellas!
A simple question here....
I have 2 autoflowering plants, one of them is on day 40 from sprout and the other on day 27. None of them are showing signs of sex yet, no preflowers and they are supposed to start flowering about day 30 if not earlier!!!!!
I changed the light cycle to 12/12 4 days ago.
Now, my question is: they should start flowering soon. When those flowers show up is a good idea to change the light cycle back to 18/6? Since they are autos they should do better with buds under 18/6.... but on the other hand, I may stress the plant messing drastically with the light cycle.
Anyone have suggestions on this topic?
Thanks!,
thanks
Autoflower not flowering - a question
yo fellas!
A simple question here....
I have 2 autoflowering plants, one of them is on day 40 from sprout and the other on day 27. None of them are showing signs of sex yet, no preflowers and they are supposed to start flowering about day 30 if not earlier!!!!!
I changed the light cycle to 12/12 4 days ago.
Now, my question is: they should start flowering soon. When those flowers show up is a good idea to change the light cycle back to 18/6? Since they are autos they should do better with buds under 18/6.... but on the other hand, I may stress the plant messing drastically with the light cycle.
Anyone have suggestions on this topic?
Thanks!,
mantiszn
Well-Known Member
agreed true autos would flower when they were ready regardless of light cycle
K21701
Active Member
Totally agree....had first hand experience and going from 12/12 back on 18/6 will send them back into veg!!!!
bobmarley1234
Member
Yo, just a quick update on my snowryder's, ive upgraded to a grow tent durin this grow from a closet as u can see in the pics, i took the pics about 5mins ago so that makes them 36 days old little over 5 weeks, another 5 weeks left give or take. I gave them their first dossage of AN big bud liquid last week and already significant growth, time for the 2nd feed tomorow, all looks to be goin great, see what you guys think
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surfhead
Well-Known Member
Hey folks ( quick ?) has anybody had any of there autos finish 1-2 weeks earlier than the suggested time from the breeder. IAM ALWAYS LATER THAN THEY SUGGEST !BUT HAVE ONE NOW DAY 54 OUT OF 70 ,THATS 80/20 =MILKEY /CLEAR TRICHS. THE OTHER ONE IS ON TRACK FOR THAT 70 = DAY RANGE
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BOB MARLEY STARTING TO LOOK GOOD( THAT IS A LONG TIME AUTO 80 DAYS ) THAT WOULD KILL ME WAITING 80 ..LOL
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BOB MARLEY STARTING TO LOOK GOOD( THAT IS A LONG TIME AUTO 80 DAYS ) THAT WOULD KILL ME WAITING 80 ..LOL
bobmarley1234
Member
Well i bought them on a trip to amsterdam last month, i was chattin to the guy in sensi seeds and he said they take bout ten weeks, but he said the extra couple of weeks is worth it in yield compared to some of these 7-8 week autos, so i thought id give them a try
Frenchy1000
Well-Known Member
my first little plant is alive!
I already Node
Active Member
Dude, your plants look great! I am growing a Top69 AF and this is day 33 it only goes 69 day's. Do you think it will fill out. I mean it doesn't look like its gonna have big buds???Your plants are lookin great man, they should give ya some nice dank buds!!
Ive been pretty busy but finally took some shots of my fridge tonight, here the ladies are at 35 days. Strain is Diesel Ryder.
And a front shot
Yeah back the lights off just a bit but honestly the plants look very healthy. Those lower 2 leaves do all sorts of funky shit, they always end up yellowing and dying way before any others. Id say once you get to another node or 2 they will start to yellow, the plant only needs them for a short while apparently. Lookin great otherwise though!! Keep up the good work!
Peace guys
KB
Attachments
surfhead
Well-Known Member
Hey guys here's a thread you should read by uncle ben ,see what he has to say about yellowing leaves,and alot more !! plus you can learn an awful lot!! (LOOK GOOD KOLOR BLIND)
click link here
https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/267989-uncle-bens-gardening-tweeks-pointers.html
HER IS A LITTLE SNIPPET
Originally Posted by Uncle Ben 
I wrote this years ago and thought I'd share it here.
The never ending abuse of Phosphorous to enhance flowering
A common mistake for growers when they reach the flowering stage is to start hitting the plants with a high P fert like a 10-50-10, continuing to use this blend exclusively, and when their plants start experiencing a deficit of N, Ca, Mg or micros as reflected by the dropping of lower leaves and chlorosis, they wonder why. Plants flower as a response to long nights, not because of fert blends high in P. A ratio of 10-60-10 is WAY too high in P. The plant will only take what it needs and compete for other elements that may be more important at the time.
You may have heard that too much N can inhibit flowering. No question about it, exclusive use of a plant food that is rich in N such as blood meal, a 5-1-1 blend, or ammonium nitrate/sulfate may inhibit flowering especially if the phosphorous level is low, but most balanced blends have sufficient amount of P to do the job. The question is - "how much P is enough to support a good flowering response and still retain my leaves?"
Manufacturers/horticulturists will give you element analysis and what effect the elements have on plant growth, but remember this does not necessarily mean you will get better yields. Using a high P fert exclusively during flowering can actually work against you due to impending leaf drop. It's an abundant amount of healthy leaves going into 12/12 and maintaining their health that produces a lot of bud, not high P ferts.
I rotate fert blends as the plant *requires* them, not because it is "the thing to do." For example, when your plants are going thru the stretch phase during early flowering, they may need more N, especially if you're getting some yellowing in the lower leaves. Give up the cannabis paradigms and give them what they need. Go back to mild high P fert when the stretch ends, maintaining the foliage in a healthy state of growth until harvest for maximum yields. A 1-3-2 blend such as Peter's Pro Blossom Booster, 10-30-20, is one of the best flowering blends on the market because of several factors - it is higher in nitrate N and Mg. It is sold under the Jack's Classic label. An added benefit of Peters blends is their use of high quality, very pure salts that will eliminate root burn if used judiciously.
Uncle Ben
click link here
https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/267989-uncle-bens-gardening-tweeks-pointers.html
HER IS A LITTLE SNIPPET
I wrote this years ago and thought I'd share it here.
The never ending abuse of Phosphorous to enhance flowering
A common mistake for growers when they reach the flowering stage is to start hitting the plants with a high P fert like a 10-50-10, continuing to use this blend exclusively, and when their plants start experiencing a deficit of N, Ca, Mg or micros as reflected by the dropping of lower leaves and chlorosis, they wonder why. Plants flower as a response to long nights, not because of fert blends high in P. A ratio of 10-60-10 is WAY too high in P. The plant will only take what it needs and compete for other elements that may be more important at the time.
You may have heard that too much N can inhibit flowering. No question about it, exclusive use of a plant food that is rich in N such as blood meal, a 5-1-1 blend, or ammonium nitrate/sulfate may inhibit flowering especially if the phosphorous level is low, but most balanced blends have sufficient amount of P to do the job. The question is - "how much P is enough to support a good flowering response and still retain my leaves?"
Manufacturers/horticulturists will give you element analysis and what effect the elements have on plant growth, but remember this does not necessarily mean you will get better yields. Using a high P fert exclusively during flowering can actually work against you due to impending leaf drop. It's an abundant amount of healthy leaves going into 12/12 and maintaining their health that produces a lot of bud, not high P ferts.
I rotate fert blends as the plant *requires* them, not because it is "the thing to do." For example, when your plants are going thru the stretch phase during early flowering, they may need more N, especially if you're getting some yellowing in the lower leaves. Give up the cannabis paradigms and give them what they need. Go back to mild high P fert when the stretch ends, maintaining the foliage in a healthy state of growth until harvest for maximum yields. A 1-3-2 blend such as Peter's Pro Blossom Booster, 10-30-20, is one of the best flowering blends on the market because of several factors - it is higher in nitrate N and Mg. It is sold under the Jack's Classic label. An added benefit of Peters blends is their use of high quality, very pure salts that will eliminate root burn if used judiciously.
Uncle Ben
hi I have a quick question,
which AF strains grow the least in height? or require the smallest pot size?
I remember reading before (well a number of years ago now) that the depth of the pot matters the most but a big size pot is needed too.
is this still the case or is that relevant to older strains mainly?
reason being I may have a small stealth case to try grow in, bigger than what i've attempted before but taking into consideration room for lights, plant and pot size becomes quite important
any help would be great thanks, sorry if I posted this in the wrong place?
which AF strains grow the least in height? or require the smallest pot size?
I remember reading before (well a number of years ago now) that the depth of the pot matters the most but a big size pot is needed too.
is this still the case or is that relevant to older strains mainly?
reason being I may have a small stealth case to try grow in, bigger than what i've attempted before but taking into consideration room for lights, plant and pot size becomes quite important
any help would be great thanks, sorry if I posted this in the wrong place?
K21701
Active Member
Small pot, small plant... I grow my autos in a 1 gallon bucket and if height is an issue you can always LST them. Here is some pics of my Purple Jems....1 Lst'd and 1 not
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
Surfhead: Amen. Is there a link to Uncle Ben's Sage advice? Aha, I found it by pointing over the info
Mizuchi go to the seed bank websites that sell AFs. You will find most of the characteristic you need under each strain. That said, stability has been an issue.
AF Question: After several months I forced my girl into flower by dropping to 12/12. Although she is definitely budding, they are small, and this stage seems slow as well. If I return to 20/4, or maybe 18/6 will this speed up bud growth or slow it down?
Mizuchi go to the seed bank websites that sell AFs. You will find most of the characteristic you need under each strain. That said, stability has been an issue.
AF Question: After several months I forced my girl into flower by dropping to 12/12. Although she is definitely budding, they are small, and this stage seems slow as well. If I return to 20/4, or maybe 18/6 will this speed up bud growth or slow it down?
surfhead
Well-Known Member
PETFLORA uncle bens link is on my post above. and go back one page and your questions are answered there !!
Hey folks ( quick ?) has anybody had any of there autos finish 1-2 weeks earlier than the suggested time from the breeder. IAM ALWAYS LATER THAN THEY SUGGEST !BUT HAVE ONE NOW DAY 54 OUT OF 70 ,THATS 80/20 =MILKEY /CLEAR TRICHS. THE OTHER ONE IS ON TRACK FOR THAT 70 = DAY RANGE
Hey folks ( quick ?) has anybody had any of there autos finish 1-2 weeks earlier than the suggested time from the breeder. IAM ALWAYS LATER THAN THEY SUGGEST !BUT HAVE ONE NOW DAY 54 OUT OF 70 ,THATS 80/20 =MILKEY /CLEAR TRICHS. THE OTHER ONE IS ON TRACK FOR THAT 70 = DAY RANGE
Regeneration: possible for AF?
Hi! Just about to harvest my crop of AF (Big Buddha Auto's) and quite happy with results. Read an interesting article by Ed Rosenthal called 'Regeneration : The third way.' I think the idea makes sense on many levels but I can't find any infos. Obviously i am aware that AF flower whenever they feel like it (not photo sensitive) so the question becomes: is it possible to re-veg AF, and if so HOW?
My grow has been under 20/4 MH for 2 wks then 18/6 HPS till now, so I am not sure that simply giving them constant light would suffice. Good results despite a bit of stem elongation (one reached 5feet!). Strong branches and roots cause me to inquire about Regeneration as Ed usually speaks sense when it comes to our favourite plant...(I hope for answers although seed selling people probably HATE the idea of growers regenerating their crops with good results
as this would lead to loss of seeds sales..)
Peace.
Peace.
K21701
Active Member
Since you had to force her to flower she was not a true stable AF....Keep her on 12/12 or she is apt to revert back to veg stat....,, it has happened to me!!!