So yea, as diggs99 said, not canadian. Hah. And the amazon link was only reference for the sizing, as I said.
It's fucked for canada, just trust us. Haha.
Best light coverage for 10x5x6 tent
- Thread starter HardLuck71
- Start date
It's fucked for canada, just trust us. Haha.
The duties would kill it, I think. I checked aliexpress and shit too, longest lengths I saw was 800mm and a few listings for 1000mm I think.
Thanks.
HardLuck71
Well-Known Member
@2com as I said, my mistake. And for the Amazon, I was just sayin man
coreywebster
Well-Known Member
Is it just aluminium angle your after or extrusion ?
Extrusion. Been using angle so far.
GreenTools
Well-Known Member
Most of the Mars hydro and Chinese equivalents are inconsistent and often break down... learned the hard way before I made 3 Vero cob systems to replace.... best choice imo….
HardLuck71
Well-Known Member
@diggs99 , @1212ham , @ChiefRunningPhist , @coreywebster , @2com , I want to thank you all for all your help and guidance and want u to know that I greatly appreciate it! Sry if I missed anyone else that helped me as I thank u too! The only issue I have now is, I wired it up with the driver on top and was told that I can’t/shouldn’t do that? Any suggestion? Is that ok, is there something I can put underneath it?? Thanks again! Below is the 1st light I finished!
coreywebster
Well-Known Member
You could suspend the driver above if you like, or put a strut of alu across the centre to keep it raised off the heatsink.
Most of the board kits come with driver mounted to the heatsink, but boards are far more diode dense and heat is concentrated under the driver, it will impede dissipation and make the driver warmer than it needs to be. Which may shorten the life span of both driver and diodes.
Honestly don't see it been a massive issue with the open nature of your light but raise it an inch off the top if you want to play it safe.
Look forward to seeing it in action!
Most of the board kits come with driver mounted to the heatsink, but boards are far more diode dense and heat is concentrated under the driver, it will impede dissipation and make the driver warmer than it needs to be. Which may shorten the life span of both driver and diodes.
Honestly don't see it been a massive issue with the open nature of your light but raise it an inch off the top if you want to play it safe.
Look forward to seeing it in action!
HardLuck71
Well-Known Member
What do u mean exactly by “suspending it”? How would I do that? I mean my heatsinks are only 1” wide, so driver would only be in contact with an inch at each end of the driver. I can also point a clip fan towards it to keeps temps down?You could suspend the driver above if you like, or put a strut of alu across the centre to keep it raised off the heatsink.
Most of the board kits come with driver mounted to the heatsink, but boards are far more diode dense and heat is concentrated under the driver, it will impede dissipation and make the driver warmer than it needs to be. Which may shorten the life span of both driver and diodes.
Honestly don't see it been a massive issue with the open nature of your light but raise it an inch off the top if you want to play it safe.
Look forward to seeing it in action!
No problem, looks like you did a good job.
Literally, hang it from the ceiling/above, I'd think.
I've only every remotely mounted drivers, never to the actual fixture, like @diggs99. To see what that's like, look at basically any HID setup. AC cord plugs into wall, leads to driver (/ballast) - which is mounted to a wooden board/wall/ceiling/etc., and then the DC out cord from the driver is usually extended and ran to the light fixture where you'll connect it however you've chosen (wagos, wire nuts, fancy cable connecters, etc.).
HardLuck71
Well-Known Member
I’m in tents so I can’t screw it to ceiling, wall etc. You think maybe I could zip tie it and hang it from one of the support bars at the top? Wonder if that’d work? Thanks again bud!
MrGreenFingers99
Well-Known Member
Zip ties and rope rachet hangers, my tent is full of them lol
HardLuck71
Well-Known Member
I decided to order some more 10 series 80/20 extrusion like I used for my framing but only got 1/2in high this time and gonna use 2 per fixture going across the top and mount my drivers to those. Will look really clean
diggs99
Well-Known Member
you just gonna drill out a couple holes for the driver to mount to the 10 series? or the 10 series to the frame?
or did you get them to do it for you?
HardLuck71
Well-Known Member
Just thought of it but I can’t mount these to the heatsinks cause of the strips so thinking of just using some 2 way tape to hold them in place then i can use extra hardware I have like the fasteners that slide in there and the button heads to hold the driver to the extrusion.
diggs99
Well-Known Member
Have you considered wiring the drivers remotelty?, get them away from the fixtures?
HardLuck71
Well-Known Member
Honestly, I’m sick of messing with this shit and just wanna be done with it lol. I wouldn’t even know where to put them anyways
diggs99
Well-Known Member
i hear ya, but for future reference, you could just use a small piece of plywood or anything for a small frame to attatch the drivers to, then use electrical ties or ratchets to fasten the frame to your tent, anywhere you want, preferably soomewhere with good access just in case
But i know all about just wanting to be done with it lol, trust me
fragileassassin
Well-Known Member
I would do exactly this using the mounting holes on the driver lol.
If theyre slots and not holes, screw it to a small piece of wood and drill holes in the wood.