Best 'stand alone' bloom boosters

For best results use in 1st week of flower and then use in late flower (weeks 5-7) for middle flower (2-4) use NPK like Big Bud has

churchhaze said:

MOAB is just overpriced monopotassium phosphate. Totally a waste of money. I get generic MKP for way cheaper to make my hydro recipes. (that's where I get all my P actually)

to this which is exactly the same but with a funny label put on it.:

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What a stupid looking label but when your market is kids.... The lie is that it contains MAP too, a 11-48-0. That is if you can believe the label which I can't.

Marketing manipulation and fraud pushed to the dummies.

UB

butsack said:

I think you want to to be around 1-1-2 for flowering! but i could be wrong

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I do a 18-4-9. Glad my plants can't read.

It's about plant nutrition and the retention of leaves, not sales of bloom food crap that is ONLY sold because it's perceived by Advanced Shysters admin that that's what the kids want. They're brain dead.

1-1-2 works, 1-1-1 works, 18-4-9 works 1-3-2 works, etc. They all work as long as your leaves are green and healthy. If leaves are turning yellow and falling off, it doesn't work.

Nobody can argue with your mix when you have a healthy plant.

churchhaze said:

1-1-2 works, 1-1-1 works, 18-4-9 works 1-3-2 works, etc. They all work as long as your leaves are green and healthy. If leaves are turning yellow and falling off, it doesn't work.

Nobody can argue with your mix when you have a healthy plant.

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i agree to a point, at the end of flower if someone is flushing for 2 weeks its normal to have yellowing and fall colors..i used to flush for 2 weeks to get those colors however recently ive found that keeping the nutes on till the last 3 days gives better yields... so now i only flush for 3 days and dont get the yellowing anymore but buds are bigger and denser and stll taste the same..

The "best" ratio is one that provides each element sufficiently but does not lead to an imbalance over time (as in has too much or too little from one or more elements). What that best ratio is varies a lot. E.g. per pot size, medium, hydro setup, veg duration, fertilizing methods (fertigation vs premix) etc, etc. Plants, and not a nutrient manufacturer or grower, dictate what the best ratio is. It's often not a low N ratio that is the problem but the imbalance, causing stimulation/synergism and antagonism, both indirectly resulting in deficiencies (the former because it depletes faster).

High P reduces zinc and calcium uptake
High K reduces magnesium and calcium uptake

Add calmag based on calcium nitrate and it will unfuckup the situation a little, at the cost of wasting nutrients.

I think I'm going to prepare a new product too, I will call it MaGic, in case high N ever becomes a trend.

Why would anyone want to do that?

TheChemist77 said:

if someone is flushing for 2 weeks its normal to have yellowing and fall colors

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i dont do it anymore.. i used to do a 2 week flush cause i was told getting the yellow colors was a sign that all the nutrients were out to get a more natural flavour...

TheChemist77 said:

i dont do it anymore.. i used to do a 2 week flush cause i was told getting the yellow colors was a sign that all the nutrients were out to get a more natural flavour...

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"Gluten free too", right?

Watch out for those RIU myths. They tend to be a bit "un-natural".

still gluten free, but it's not vegan. we used blood meal.

This is my first post ever on a forum.. As someone who has been in the business for a long time I tend to shy away from posting stuff online because of all the non-sense people write and the bs information they give people who really need help with their grows.. With this being said I am only here to help and hope more people will give good solid information from personal experience not just copying and pasting other bs responses from people who are wrong and don't know any better.

So here we go to answer your question we need first to know what bases you are running.. We need to know if you are running synthetic nutrients or organic because that will change what I recommend you use for a "PK Booster" or a Bud Booster depending what period of flowering you are in right now.. When you say you want. A blossom booster is it for early flower or late flower?

If you are running synthetics or organics and you are looking for a PK Booster To harden and fill out already developed flowers (weeks 5/6/7 depending on variety) I highly recommend House and Garden Top Shooter and Top Booster follow directions they are very simple if done at the right time (that's only something experience will teach you..) Canna PK 13/14 basically same product very inexpensive for what you get..

You wanna go high end get some Atami Bloombastic it's the absolute sh*t! Highly concentrated don't need much and smells great and provides excellent results.. I use it first week bloom half strength then ramp it up week 5/6 to full strength for a week then cut back right before flushing.. That's on a 8 week variety push back a week if u have a 9+ week etc...

If you are going organic and you want to make your own PK Booster... Get a bottle of Humboldt Natural Bloom enhancer it's 0-10-0.. And get a bottle of Technaflora SS (Soluable Seaweed) 1-1-16.. And whalla!! You have 1-11-16 with a ill' bit of nitrogen help keep things nice and green throughout.. You can use this throughout entire flowering period start at 1/4 strength work your way up to peak bloom then cut it off before flushing..

Now if you are looking for a bloom enhanced not a "booster".. You should once again provide us with your base nutrient (synthetic/organic) and I can help you out better..

I recommend Canna Boost very expensive but by far best s*it on the market worth every f*ckin penny.. Bud-XL same idea but not as good but is also a great product for the price and it's a lil cheaper too but same idea..

I personally not knowing what bases you are running would recommend you use if going synthetic or organic doesn't matter Advanced Nutrients Big Bud is another awesome product..

If going organic Botanice a hydroplex is good stuff for a great price!!

If you are worried about costs you have to remember its like buying a car you get what you pay for in this business.. The more you spend the more you usually get back (as long as you do everything properly) unfortunately for beginners they get discouraged because they aren't running things correctly and try great products they don't use right and then they trash the product when it's really just them..

Just remember almost any nutrient lineup use choose or run if ran correctly will provide good results!! There are so many other limiting factors that will effect your grow to say one is better than other is only in eye of the beholder..

My boy been running Fox Farm bases and bloom enhances for years and has phenomenal results better than many synthetic high priced nutrient companies such as Advanced Canna and House and Garden.. It's all about your room atmosphere, temperature humidity, watering at the right times making sure you don't have deficiencies and are giving the root zone proper microbial life to promote vigorous growth and structural support..

Best of luck!!

That is not true with nutrients. Definitely not like buying a car at all.

Nitrates are nitrates, phosphates are phosphates, and potassium is potassium.

Dirt cheap. (pun intended) Finding a good mix for soil or soilless isn't rocket science.

PK_Boosted said:

If you are worried about costs you have to remember its like buying a car you get what you pay for in this business..

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Not another one.

PK_Boosted said:

So here we go to answer your question we need first to know what bases you are running.. We need to know if you are running synthetic nutrients or organic because that will change what I recommend you use for a "PK Booster" or a Bud Booster depending what period of flowering you are in right now.. When you say you want. A blossom booster is it for early flower or late flower?

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Uh....welcome to RIU. You'll fit right in.

I'll give you a hint.

The plant needs N, K, Ca, P, Mg, S, Fe, B, Mn, Mo, Zn, and Cu in that order.

actually when buying bloom boosters, product name is key. examples are Big Bud (who doesn't want big buds), Top Booster (ummm yea I'm pretty sure i want my tops to boost), Bud XL (fuck yes i want extra large buds), things of this nature is how we should be shopping for boosters.

Uncle Ben what do you mean not another one? You don't know how to read or you don't understand the difference between a flower enhancer and a flower booster? Kind of confused...

Buying nutrients is like buying a car you go and buy a ford focus for 15k that's like buying the GH 3 part bubble nutes they will get you flowers and be decent but they won't get you the quality or yield you get running expensive products like Canna H&G or Advanced will which are the Ferrari's of nutrients IMO and every other top grower in the country.. You pay for what you get with nutrients hands down!

All nutrient companies will give you results provided you give them the proper atmosphere and growing parameters but I find the more money I pay for nutrients the bigger yields and higher quality my product finishes at hands down..mi ran the gh 3 part bubble like most people began with over 10 years ago I've tried all kinds of nutrient lines from botanicare to humboldt to H&G to canna and advanced .. Canna IMO is the best hands down followed by advanced H&G and botanicare which is also great for growing organics but yields are diminished .. When I grow it's for yield and quality with cheap nutrients like Dina grow GH 3 part buzz and techna flora you don't get the high tnc resinous high yields you get running products like advanced or canna which are 5-10x the price hands down price matters they charge fora reason because they r the best and they know it and they command top dollar that's why everyone who knows what they are doing runs those 3 nutrients primarily

I look forward to read in the morning how you got ripped a new asshole.