Best way to combat pythium and root rot in all hydroponic growing methods.

twistedwords

Well-Known Member
I use these, they are 2 gallon but I think they also make bigger ones.
View attachment 3625197


I also use this controller bucket to control the ebb and flow
View attachment 3625203

Very good system imo. I've tried the CAP brand system and it sucked. The hydrofarm system is excellent, I have 2 of them now and each one can handle up to 48 buckets I believe. You can also adjust the flood height unlike other systems and it also has a auto shut off valve which prevents flooding if something goes wrong with the water float valves.

Thanks...
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
Not a problem, and no I'm not a hydrofarm rep lol. But the system is nice. Titan controls also has a nice system I think, I haven't used it but their buckets are square. Wish my buckets were square but oh well. Oxygen pots also looks nice but I can't comment on it. Id like a digital controller bucket timer but you know how it is, the more bells and whistles, the more shit can go wrong
 

Gregor Eisenhorn

Well-Known Member
Was wondering if anyone could recommend a good product for preventing root rot? Some beneficial bacteria I could ad to the reservoir? I've heard that Voodoo Juice, Pirahna, Tarantula have bennies that prevent RR.
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Lots of products out there that work I'm sure but the one that I used to cure my rot was hydroguard, it's pricey but it did work very well. I hooked up a chiller as well at the same time
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
Was wondering if anyone could recommend a good product for preventing root rot? Some beneficial bacteria I could ad to the reservoir? I've heard that Voodoo Juice, Pirahna, Tarantula have bennies that prevent RR.
you have 2 choices: sterile or beneficials
i like sterile. i think it's easier to kill everything vs trying to have more good vs bad bacteria.
 
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Tripp2005

Well-Known Member
Please, let me be crystal clear this time, I ask for your opinion, not your perception of scientific facts... sorry you misunderstood. Let's begin again.

And your scientific point is ---- what?

You say, “I am going with scientific fact with a venturi device as a air stone does nor venturi does not inject any oxygen in the water.” You might want to fact check this one because air contains a little bit of oxygen, 20% O2 and this will dissolve in water albeit any O2 does not dissolve well in water.

***So what’s your point for this 3 phase aeration rig if it doesn’t dissolve oxygen into the nutrient water nor maintain minimal safe continuous oxygenation 24/7/months?

Stop, relax and focus… This is about oxygenating RDWC nutrient water, insuring that low oxygenation does not happen thus inhibiting outbreaks of Pythium fungal opportunist caused by low-oxygen environments. This is about preventing fungal outbreaks by maintain 100% DO saturation in nutrient solution.

You say, “So you get 3 times the amount of agitation compared to one time of agitation from a air stone, hence more efficiency and more agitation of water to air surface.”

I’m missing something here.

***What’s is your point for this 3 phase agitation?

***Are you trying to say that this the point of this 3 aeration run (triple agitation: running air through an air stone, air venture, rising air bubbles in water) you end up with a total of 60% oxygen that is going to instantly dissolve in the water? Air contains 20% O2 X 3 runs = 60% O2.

I hear your scientific facts and now I would like to hear your opinion.

***What will, “more efficiency and more agitation of water to air surface” really going to do?

Thanks for explaining this to me better so I can better understand what you are trying to accomplish with this 3 phase aeration-agitation rig.

J
I have a question couldn't u just change your water weekly would this work new to hydro running a 17 gallon super ponics
 

J Henry

Active Member
I have a question couldn't u just change your water weekly would this work new to hydro running a 17 gallon super ponics
Is this what you have?

General Hydroponics - AeroFlo 30 - Hydroponic System - 30 Sites - 17-Gallon Reservoir - 3 6 ft. Grow Chambers 3-inch Grow Cups Grow Media and Manifold Included - General Hydropo nics GH8008 $547.61 and shipping is free http://www.amazon.com/AeroFlo-Hydroponic-17-Gallon-Reservoir-Hydroponics/dp/B001IMFH52

I found no specifications on this product. Probably has a small water pump circulating the water, maybe an air venture connected to the plumbing entraining air into the water pump or piping. Changing the water 5 times daily would not increase oxygenation. Oxygenation is very limited when air is the source gas, air contains only 20% O2.
 

Gregor Eisenhorn

Well-Known Member
you have 2 choices: sterile or beneficials
i like sterile. i think it's easier to kill everything vs trying to have more good vs bad bacteria.
So you use H202 yes? I've been thinking of adding it to my reservoir... maybe 1 ml for 1 liter of the 3% stuff and bump it up over the course of a few days.
 

Tripp2005

Well-Known Member
Is this what you have?

General Hydroponics - AeroFlo 30 - Hydroponic System - 30 Sites - 17-Gallon Reservoir - 3 6 ft. Grow Chambers 3-inch Grow Cups Grow Media and Manifold Included - General Hydropo nics GH8008 $547.61 and shipping is free http://www.amazon.com/AeroFlo-Hydroponic-17-Gallon-Reservoir-Hydroponics/dp/B001IMFH52

I found no specifications on this product. Probably has a small water pump circulating the water, maybe an air venture connected to the plumbing entraining air into the water pump or piping. Changing the water 5 times daily would not increase oxygenation. Oxygenation is very limited when air is the source gas, air contains only 20% O2.
No I have a supercloset. Superflower cabinet 16 site 17 gallon res Eco air 4 with airstones Eco pump 185 gal a money for dip feed for younger plantsi change my water weekly never gets above 61 degrees ever no matter the season just curious would rather be proactive then reactive
 

Tripp2005

Well-Known Member
Air cooled 600w HP's with 2 charcoal filter exaust fans 20 cfpm not sure how much this matters also the closet is in my walk in closet witch stays about 60 degrees all the time
 

J Henry

Active Member
No I have a supercloset. Superflower cabinet 16 site 17 gallon res Eco air 4 with airstones Eco pump 185 gal a money for dip feed for younger plantsi change my water weekly never gets above 61 degrees ever no matter the season just curious would rather be proactive then reactive
So far - so good. If you are having no fungal symptoms, don't change anything. How often do you check your roots and look specifically for root rot symptoms? How often do your check your nutrient temp (with a swimming pool thermometer)?
 

Tripp2005

Well-Known Member
I check once a day after work no signs of root root check temps also one time a day besides weekends also do one oh check daily also I change my resume and nutes weekly have gone every I the but only durning veg weird thing is tho when I first set up clean sterilized set up put nutes in and about 5 mins later there was this brown slimy Lil patch of weirdness looked kinda 1/4 as long as a pencil and about as thick slime this when I tryd to dish it out with a strainer it kept going through I'm using technaflora recipe for success veg stage with root 66 plants love it mixed at 1/3 streghth just out rooted clones in it a week ago looks nice for a soidermite infested clone stressed to shit lol what u think
 

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Gregor Eisenhorn

Well-Known Member
I've been flowering for a week now and have become super paranoid about root rot. I've invested too much tears and stress into this 2 month grow. I wake up everyday and check the temps (usually between 15-19C) and sniff the roots.

I'm going to buy some kind of anti pythium product, fuck it. I shudder at the thought of losing my plant a few weeks before harvest.
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
I've been flowering for a week now and have become super paranoid about root rot. I've invested too much tears and stress into this 2 month grow. I wake up everyday and check the temps (usually between 15-19C) and sniff the roots.

I'm going to buy some kind of anti pythium product, fuck it. I shudder at the thought of losing my plant a few weeks before harvest.
It's kind of pricey but hydroguard works very well. I haven't tried enough of anything else to recommend it but hydroguard saved my ass where H2O2 and bleach were not helping much.
 

Gregor Eisenhorn

Well-Known Member
I have heard nothing but good reviews about hydroguard, but there is none available in Europe and the shipping alone is costly. I have been reading about Pythoff, apparently it's really good at preventing and most importantly combating pythium.

But I might start using H202 in small amounts until Pythoff arrives.
 
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Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
I have heard nothing but good reviews about hydroguard, but there is none available in Europe and the shipping alone is costly. I have been reading about Pythoff, apparently it's really good at preventing and most importantly combating pythium.

But I might start using H202 in small amounts until Pythoff arrives.
That sucks and sorry if you already said that. I have the same issue here with cost of shipping if they even ship ;(.
 

Gregor Eisenhorn

Well-Known Member
No worries, I could of missed something earlier.

But in all honesty if I had access to hydroguard I'd buy it straight away, I don't think I've read about it not working.

Also I think you have to use it in the space of 6 months correct?
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
No worries, I could of missed something earlier.

But in all honesty if I had access to hydroguard I'd buy it straight away, I don't think I've read about it not working.

Also I think you have to use it in the space of 6 months correct?
Yes once you open it. I did buy a new powdered form of beanies but haven't tried it but once and I had issues with it plugging my spray nozzle filter :(. Hydroguard is pretty expensive for me to get it as well, that's why the search for a cheaper solution. I've heard good things re pondzyme but I got hit when using Microblift which I thought was the same thing :(.
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Oh and trying to get 35% H2O2 here is like trying to buy a nuclear bomb lol. I found a 5 gallon pail for sale in the classifieds for $125, unfortunately I don't use it lol.
 

J Henry

Active Member
Oh and trying to get 35% H2O2 here is like trying to buy a nuclear bomb lol. I found a 5 gallon pail for sale in the classifieds for $125, unfortunately I don't use it lol.
Neither does this guy

“ROT” by Serious Fourside http://www.growweedeasy.com/root-rot
Cannabis Root Rot – Slimy Brown Roots
The Problem - Your cannabis plant starts drooping, leaves start getting sick, and roots are brown, smelly and/or slimy. These are all symptoms of cannabis root rot.
Sound familiar - burnt edges or tips; yellow, bronze or brown spots or stripes; nutrient deficiencies; clawing and curled edges; other unusual leaf symptoms?
Roots need water, but if they are get too much water without enough oxygen they are much more susceptible to root rot. This is often caused by too-hot conditions, overwatering, and/or not enough bubbles dissolving oxygen into a DWC water reservoir. [plenty of air bubbles does not mean plenty of oxygen bubbles and root rot thrives in low oxygen conditions.]
The writer recommends treating the rot after the outbreak – “
You will need to treat the plant's root directly and you will also need change the plant's environment so that root rot no longer has a good place to grow.” And of course cold water and plenty of chemicals.
The writers opinion of using hydrogen peroxide: “Don't Use Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2)! H2O2 is temperarily effective at best when it comes to getting rid of root rot. It makes me so sad when people tell growers to use H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) to kill root rot. Even the commercial grade stuff just doesn't work (and I've tried)!
All H2O2 does is cause bubbling near the dead brown roots (or any organic matter), which is why I think people believe it's helping. In my experience it doesn't help the plants themselves (they don't look any better), and what's worse, all the H2O2 will be completely gone from the water within 24 hours.
H2O2 kills most of the bacteria in the reservoir, including any good bacteria, and does absolutely nothing to address the underlying problem. Although H2O2 does kill bad bacteria, it leaves enough of it there to repopulate your reservoir. As common as the advice to use H2O2 for root rot is, I've never seen a case by a real grower who was actually able to get rid of root rot with H2O2. [YIKES!]
If you cannot/will not prevent the fungal outbreaks, treating the disease is the only option you have left if you’re going to be a RDWC/DWC pot grower. Personally I’m into preventing the root rot disease and keep the crop and microbial eco system healthy.
 
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