Bloom boosters: BS or Necessity?

Bloom boosters?

  • Scam!

    Votes: 17 68.0%

  • Boosters 4 life!!

    Votes: 8 32.0%
  • Total voters
    25
Moabfighter said:
So the plant has no more nutrients in it and will “die off” ala that fall look the leaves have you see what I mean? That’s where you bring a lot of the colors out at the end.


Also, I’ve never grown any mids.

Edit and the flush, to me, helps make the smoke much smoother on the lungs.
Click to expand...

Bro science unfortunately. Curing is how your smoke becomes smooth.

www.rxgreentechnologies.com

Cannabis Flushing Study on Grow Nutrients I Rx Green

Rx Green’s research study on cannabis flushing explores the truth behind this urban myth in growing nutrients.
www.rxgreentechnologies.com www.rxgreentechnologies.com
 
jondamon said:
Bro science unfortunately. Curing is how your smoke becomes smooth.

www.rxgreentechnologies.com

Cannabis Flushing Study on Grow Nutrients I Rx Green

Rx Green’s research study on cannabis flushing explores the truth behind this urban myth in growing nutrients.
www.rxgreentechnologies.com www.rxgreentechnologies.com
Click to expand...
Yep this one is ethos purple sunset. It really showed of its purple well before the flush. Such a good one I decided to run it again and it’s doing well.

E8F1AE52-2F52-46D7-B08F-2CD785758A09.png
 
xtsho said:
You don't need to starve your plants to get colors. True colored plants will do it on their own and have healthy leaves until the end.

panamapck.jpg

pckdurbanf3.jpg
Click to expand...
some people cut the nutes - esp. N - short to reduce the amount of nitrit inside the plants tissue & artificially provoke senescence, ie. hasten up the flowering process. And even accept loss of harvest - weight mostly, trichome counts stays somewhat equal. The smoke is also smoother, less harsh and more subtle because the background taste isn't supressed in as much....

But the plants with the normal green leaves are always the most strong & healthy ones, and I have the suspicion that alot of the crazy leaf-colors or discoloration I see sometimes is because of heavy overfeeding or nutrition mismatch.

Your plants look fantastic and very natural, what is the first one? It has these funny pine-shaped buds, a good leaf-to-bud ration and looks quite resinous, isn't it? :weed:
 

CannaStats - Nutrient Profiles for Cannabis

This page provides a common language spoken by all fertilizer solutions and a way to mix them for growing cannabis hydroponically. Sometimes referred to as the Lucas formula, this page explains the true origin of this well known proven formula and the project that led to its discovery. Emphasis...
www.angelfire.com
 
Speaking of opinions vs science. Does flushing make that big of a difference? Im an old school grower outdoors. Indoors and hydroponic is new to me. But have been growing since 1986. You young men and women have advanced this hobby so much. And ive always wondered about flushing
 
Phat J said:
Here a link with science instead of opinions
Click to expand...

Key sections in that article:

Moderating P Applications. Phosphorous fertilization strategies have been studied extensively over the past five years. One of our graduate students, Josh Henry, worked on optimizing P fertilization rates for his master’s degree thesis. In essence, plants require a baseline level of P to grow adequately (Fig. 1). For a continuous fertilization program for plants grown in a soilless substrate, the target concentration is between 8 ppm and 15 ppm of P. Providing levels below that will result in less plant growth, while concentrations above that level provide little benefit while costing more money. Phosphorus is also the primary contributor to plant stretch. Too much P will lead to excessive internode elongation and tall plants. That’s why it’s important to limit excessive P applications.


Ratio of K to Ca to Mg. Providing the proper balance of K to Ca to Mg is important for greenhouse production of cannabis. Too much of one element does not in itself result in toxicity symptoms. Instead, excessive levels of one element has an antagonism against the others. For instance, excessive K will result in either a Ca deficiency or an Mg deficiency being observed in a plant. Many instances of Mg deficiency observed in cannabis may be due to excessive K being supplied and not due to the lack of available Mg to the plant.
 
Kassiopeija said:
some people cut the nutes - esp. N - short to reduce the amount of nitrit inside the plants tissue & artificially provoke senescence, ie. hasten up the flowering process. And even accept loss of harvest - weight mostly, trichome counts stays somewhat equal. The smoke is also smoother, less harsh and more subtle because the background taste isn't supressed in as much....

But the plants with the normal green leaves are always the most strong & healthy ones, and I have the suspicion that alot of the crazy leaf-colors or discoloration I see sometimes is because of heavy overfeeding or nutrition mismatch.

Your plants look fantastic and very natural, what is the first one? It has these funny pine-shaped buds, a good leaf-to-bud ration and looks quite resinous, isn't it? :weed:
Click to expand...

The red one? It's a Pakistani Chitral Kush + Durban cross I made. The buds look that way because they've been pollinated. It was a seed plant. It's a little dark but I like to feed seed plants more than flower plants.
 
RonnieB2 said:
Speaking of opinions vs science. Does flushing make that big of a difference? Im an old school grower outdoors. Indoors and hydroponic is new to me. But have been growing since 1986. You young men and women have advanced this hobby so much. And ive always wondered about flushing
Click to expand...
well if the plant doesn't need any more nutrition, that is, it's stopped growing taller & bulking up, and from now on will only age/get older/ripen. then you can give only water and save yourself some resources.... or when your in soil and there still is some nutrition in it which is going to last to the end, then you can give water but there's still a (declining) EC in the pot for several weeks. it's not so much about getting anything out of the plant, instead, the plant simply doesn't need that much anymore when it's metabolism is throttled down before dying.
the term flushing is also applied to 2 separate entities.
 
Kassiopeija said:
well if the plant doesn't need any more nutrition, that is, it's stopped growing taller & bulking up, and from now on will only age/get older/ripen. then you can give only water and save yourself some resources.... or when your in soil and there still is some nutrition in it which is going to last to the end, then you can give water but there's still a (declining) EC in the pot for several weeks. it's not so much about getting anything out of the plant, instead, the plant simply doesn't need that much anymore when it's metabolism is throttled down before dying.
the term flushing is also applied to 2 separate entities.
Click to expand...
Ahhhhhh, that makes a ton of sense. I was thinking along the lines of taste. Etc
 
Kassiopeija said:
thx for the links, the second link was well worth it (PK causing a likelihood increase to attract mold bc Ca is needed for cellwalls) but the first one resulted in a 404 error.
Click to expand...
I reposted the link. Works now. Explains the Lucas formula but it also explains the 1-1-2 ppm ratio. Remember it's the ppm ratio of npk not what it says on the bag
 
RonnieB2 said:
Ahhhhhh, that makes a ton of sense. I was thinking along the lines of taste. Etc
Click to expand...
yes, there are many that claim the smoke is better and I see no reason to disbelieve their experiences. I also think that the plant can sense or "feel" the declining electrolyte concentration in the water and begin to hurry up a little. it works the other way round too, these hopelessly overfed flowering plants occasionally don't want to finish but throw out the fancy shaped sugarleaves and stack calyxes and just keep building new and anew... sure, why shouldn't it if the food (water, nute + light) is there... let the winter do the killing
 
Moabfighter said:
Yep this one is ethos purple sunset. It really showed of its purple well before the flush. Such a good one I decided to run it again and it’s doing well.

View attachment 4627956
Click to expand...

How’s you’re taste and smell because back in May you were having issues with the “cure” and losing taste and smell.

I’ve actually gone back to that thread and posted some info for you about a) growing a healthy plant to harvest b) about how early you were jarring your bud.
 
Here is more info against flushing.
support.ilovegrowingmarijuana.com

To Flush or not to Flush

Flushing has been a debate for a long time. If you google “Flushing Cannabis” the very first Websites says “Flushing is free and easy technique that may improve the quality and smoothness of your cannabis buds before harvest.” …but is that true? Do I flush? Is flushing the right choice for...
support.ilovegrowingmarijuana.com support.ilovegrowingmarijuana.com
 
I like bloom boosters, but I grow in coco or other hydro, never really messed with dirt more than a few runs. I don't feed the full recommended dose, but I never do that with any fertilizers.

To call that's guys flowers and plants mids is just rediculous. Especially when you couldn't provide any pictures to the contrary.

I'm not gonna argue about flushing, but I do it and I like to fade my plants out just like his. I've done both over the years and prefer well flushed buds. Just cause science can't figure out the difference yet doesn't mean there isn't one.

As far a cure being 50% of harvesting quality that's bull shit too. Yes a bad drying and curing process can ruin good bud, but if you can't grow well curing it for a year not gonna make it better.
 
xtsho said:
Ahh the other post with the beer bottle. That was some White Russian up front.
Click to expand...
lol no not this one .... the other one I quoted (the "FIRST")... it has the filename "panamapck.jpg"... hmm lol I just realized I now have the answer - thanks XD :bigjoint:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top