Bridgelux EB Series Build

Seshwaan · Nov 16, 2017

Serva said:
350ma = 100% (nominal current, how they are designed)
700ma = 200% (maximum rating)

175-350ma = 50-100% (A version can put out a little more 50-110%)
So either get a multimeter, otherwise 50% of the driver is completly in one direction (left), 110% is completly in the other direction (right).

Ahh fuck i got my calculations all wrong then... what an idiot!

Thanks for putting me right.. I will just have to run them at 100% then surely to get the 350 and enough light?

Serva · Nov 16, 2017

No! 7,7w @350ma (100%) x 5 strips = 38,5w (in my opinion that will be more than enough for you). I think you will run them below this current!

nfhiggs · Nov 16, 2017

StreetPreacher said:
View attachment 4044113 View attachment 4044110 View attachment 4044110

That's what I thought too! So maybe I actually have them wired in parallel? The wiring picture is my new avatar.

I have the Driver's positive (+ red) lead wired to the positive (+) solderless point on strip #1 , and the Driver's black lead wired to the negative (-) solderless point on strip #2.

Strip #1 is wired to strip #2 using the negative (-) solderless point on strip #1, and the positive (+) solderless point on strip #2.

That's a series wiring description.

Randomblame · Nov 17, 2017

StreetPreacher said:
I think I figured out the multimeter, and it looks like my drivers are providing 24volts, however I'm not sure I'm getting the correct amp reading.

The Volt reading for a single strip was ~24volts, and with 2 strips wired together the reading as ~22volts., which I guess accounts for the ~1.5v drop off when running in series?

Now I also tested amps, using the 20A setting on my multimeter, and I seem to be getting ~1.38amps when testing 2 strips wired in series. So, does this mean that I'm running the strips at their maximum potential of 24volts and 1400mA?

You need to check open circuit voltage to verify the driver output. Meassure without strips only the voltage between dc + and -. If you meassure with strips there is a voltage drop you need to include.
If the driver has really 1.38A, the voltage should be around 110v. That would be sufficient for 4 gen.1 or 5 gen.2 EB strips in series.

Seshwaan · Nov 17, 2017

Serva said:
No! 7,7w @350ma (100%) x 5 strips = 38,5w (in my opinion that will be more than enough for you). I think you will run them below this current!

Ahh ok yeah I see, they just wont be as efficient as I thought as I was using the 350ma as 50% when it is actually 100%

projectinfo · Nov 17, 2017

http://ledgardener.com/parallel-strip-build-tool/

You guys ever see this before?

Nutria · Nov 17, 2017

projectinfo said:
http://ledgardener.com/parallel-strip-build-tool/

You guys ever see this before?

Adming aka mr ledg is always willing to help with useuful tools!

When will be gen2 available?

Serva · Nov 17, 2017

https://www.rollitup.org/t/bridgelux-eb-series-build.928676/page-70#post-13906257

Live chat told me, that they aren‘t avaible now, and they don‘t know when they come, because Bridgelux has not defined the shipping time. As soon as they know, I should receive an email...

Danielson999 · Nov 17, 2017

projectinfo said:
http://ledgardener.com/parallel-strip-build-tool/

You guys ever see this before?

All that does is tell you the same simple info that's available on the data sheet of every strip or cob. Not saying it's useless but it only takes 10 seconds to look at a data sheet to see the same info.
Strips (Bridgelux and Samsung) are basically all the same. A 24v or 48v CV driver works for all of them.

ledgardener · Nov 17, 2017

Danielson999 said:
All that does is tell you the same simple info that's available on the data sheet of every strip or cob. Not saying it's useless but it only takes 10 seconds to look at a data sheet to see the same info.
Strips (Bridgelux and Samsung) are basically all the same. A 24v or 48v CV driver works for all of them.

If you have a look at one of the Samsung data sheets for these strips, you’ll see they only give you data for one test current which is far less than most people run them. They don’t even tell you what the max current is per strip. You can’t really just glance at the data sheet and figure out how much current you need to run these things at say 50%. This info has to be pulled from the LM561C calculator and then applied to the series/parallel layout of each type of strip, which is what I’ve done.

The tool provides you with precise voltages at various current levels (and accounts for temperature), tells you how much current you can get away with per strip, gives you a total based on how many strips you’re running, gives you a lumen output based on the Samsung calculator, and recommends a driver.

StreetPreacher · Nov 17, 2017

Randomblame said:
You need to check open circuit voltage to verify the driver output. Meassure without strips only the voltage between dc + and -. If you meassure with strips there is a voltage drop you need to include.
If the driver has really 1.38A, the voltage should be around 110v. That would be sufficient for 4 gen.1 or 5 gen.2 EB strips in series.

I tested DC by just putting the probes on the red/black driver wires, with no LED strip attached, and it seems to be reading ~86 volts?

So would this mean I can run 3.5 x 2' strips (86v available / 24v per strip), and that they will all be getting the maximum current of 1400mA since they're wired in series?

Danielson999 · Nov 17, 2017

ledgardener said:
If you have a look at one of the Samsung data sheets for these strips, you’ll see they only give you data for one test current which is far less than most people run them. They don’t even tell you what the max current is per strip. You can’t really just glance at the data sheet and figure out how much current you need to run these things at say 50%. This info has to be pulled from the LM561C calculator and then applied to the series/parallel layout of each type of strip, which is what I’ve done.

The tool provides you with precise voltages at various current levels (and accounts for temperature), tells you how much current you can get away with per strip, gives you a total based on how many strips you’re running, gives you a lumen output based on the Samsung calculator, and recommends a driver.

You're right, the Samsung data sheets are crappy compared to the Bridgelux. And I do appreciate the time you took to put the tool out there. Perhaps Samsung should offer more concise data sheets but I really doubt they care.

guy_incognito251 · Nov 17, 2017

ledgardener said:
If you have a look at one of the Samsung data sheets for these strips, you’ll see they only give you data for one test current which is far less than most people run them. They don’t even tell you what the max current is per strip.

Max currents per strip are listed in this pdf: http://www.samsung.com/global/business/business-images/led/file/product/products/201709/Brochure_17Q3.pdf

Serva · Nov 17, 2017

Actual schedule for shipping gen 2 is 12/19/17 + a week to arrive + some time to deliver them to the customers. So it stays all the same... happy new year!

(Digikey)

projectinfo · Nov 17, 2017

Where'd ya buy?

ledgardener · Nov 17, 2017

Danielson999 said:
You're right, the Samsung data sheets are crappy compared to the Bridgelux. And I do appreciate the time you took to put the tool out there. Perhaps Samsung should offer more concise data sheets but I really doubt they care.

I agree - the Bridgelux ones are much more informative.

I’m like you: I’d prefer to pull up the data sheets and run the numbers myself rather than rely on something that does it in the background. I figured the tool might be helpful to those who want a quick answer though since the info available is lacking.

nfhiggs · Nov 17, 2017

StreetPreacher said:
I tested DC by just putting the probes on the red/black driver wires, with no LED strip attached, and it seems to be reading ~86 volts?

So would this mean I can run 3.5 x 2' strips (86v available / 24v per strip), and that they will all be getting the maximum current of 1400mA since they're wired in series?

Well you can't run half a strip, so three in series would be your best bet.

Randomblame · Nov 18, 2017

StreetPreacher said:
I tested DC by just putting the probes on the red/black driver wires, with no LED strip attached, and it seems to be reading ~86 volts?

So would this mean I can run 3.5 x 2' strips (86v available / 24v per strip), and that they will all be getting the maximum current of 1400mA since they're wired in series?

Correct!
You could also take 6 strips and use 2 parallel strings of 3 strips in series(2p3s) on one driver for ~700mA per strip.

Randomblame · Nov 18, 2017

Serva said:
I have 8x 5700K + 4x 3000K (4800K) and flowering with it, pure 3000K as supplement for my panel for flowering (~3200K), and different combination of 4000K + 5700K as veg and clone light. The gen2 strips I have ordered are 50:50 3500K + 5000K (would have prefered 5700K, but these won‘t be avaible soon) (4300K), and it will be veg and flower light, adjustable in spectrum via 2 drivers. And here is what I am doing right now:
View attachment 4043121
I was looking for an app to draw a sketch for my wife, and found a pretty good one actually, it makes fun, and isn‘t frustrating! Yello strips are 3000K, blue ones 5000K (3700K). But it will be used to farm spirulina algae.

But yeah, I love mixing strips, instead of taking the average as spectrum.

Which app did you use? IOS Android? Windows?
Thanks in advance..

ANC · Nov 18, 2017

projectinfo said:
https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/eb-series/64113

https://ca.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?r=709-HLG240H-24A

100K ohm linear potentiometer

Did I buy the wrong driver?

I want 8 of these two ft strips. Possibly go up to 14 one day. Their about 32 watts each

Sorry haven't read the replies yet... things like this get me clicking pages faster than I think sometimes.
Anyhow without any comments or opinions on your choices, I would just refine it a bit sharper, and I don't think you took the best driver from the place you are looking at.
You need 700mA and 44.2V for 3 boards so either
Driver EVM100W-2100-45 (Speced at 2.1A 45V dimmable 87%eff) for 2100mA at 44.2V or
709-HLG80H-C700B (Speced at 700mA 84V-129V dimmable 91.5%eff) for 700mA at132.6V depending on if you put them in series or parallel.
Driver costs should be within a dollar of each other.
For the boards, I would pick BXEB-L1120Z-30E4000-C-A3

Flux @ Current/Temperature - Test 4820 lm (Typ)
Current - Test 700mA
Temperature - Test 50°C
Voltage - Forward (Vf) (Typ) 44.2V
Lumens/Watt @ Current - Test 156 lm/W
Current - Max 1.4A
CRI (Color Rendering Index) 80

I would do the HLG one for efficiency, you will spend about $95 in power on it for every $100 on the other one. Total cost with driver and 3 boards without heatsinking wires and connectors comes to $89.95

Bridgelux EB Series Build

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