brown slimy roots

fatman7574

New Member
First I do not use organic fertilizer or organic supplements in my systems.

The main reason I use chlorine is the ease in monitoring how much is actually used up in oxidation and in knowing easily how much residual I am maintaining for near future oxidation. I have found that once the water is initailly free of all pathogens and the system is clean and disinfected initially it takes a very minimal residual level of chlorine to keep the system pathogen free. A lot ot tap water is delivered to homes with residual levels of chlorine adequate to prevnt pythium and of bacteira and pathogens from developing. Th problem is that water treatment plants srenot initially using high enough chlorine doses to kill all organisms when treating the water. They use ecoli as an indicator and that requires pretty low levels. Lower than that need to kill all pythium. Monitoring the amount of H2O2 added above that needed as an oxidizer is much more difficult to do as it reacts quickly and it also has no residual effect. With H2O2 you have to basically guess at waht is going on and therfore you really have no measurable information to work with.

Some people try to keep track of H2O2 effectiveness and needs through monitoring ORP but there are so many things that can alteryour ORP. Measurement of free and total chlorine is simple and cheap. Its potential for harm is grossly over exxagerated, but over exaggeration is common in forums. There are many thosands of green houses that inject a solution made of sodium hypochlorite directly into their nutrient spray and delivery lines to the 2 ppm level at the spray heads or emitters. Kinda makes my 0.5 ppm residual in the reservoirs that are cahanged weekly seempretty close to negligible. But the low levels work. My drain to waster systems also have 0.5 ppm residual chlorine.

I have not found the H2O2 to be any more plant friendly. In fact I have found it less plant friendly as it is too strong of an oxidant. It is a great deal stronger oxidant than chlorine. As far as adding oxygen. That oxygen is shortlived in the water and I really with my aero systems in large tubes and in chambers do not have any need and do not really gain through high DO reservoir water as they plants roots get over 99% of their oxygen from the air not the water. I have very minimal amounts of roots laying in tube or chamber bottoms. I have found the high reservoir water DO is realy only beneficial to systems that are very dependent on artifically high water DO, such as DWC, small tube aeros, NTF with large root masses and narrow troughs and bubbleponics. My smallest tubes are 18.5 inches tall. If I was to digress to any of the artifically high DO dependant systems I would use venturis or needle wheel pumps in combination with venturis to assure high reservoir water DO and just simply ignore any possible short term O2 gain achieved by adding H2O2.

I can loan you a DO meter if you would actually like to test just how much and for how long dosages of H2O2 effect your reservoir water.
 

MeJuana

Well-Known Member
farman you mentioned small tube aero systems being those who need artificially high DO, if I got that right. How small is small? I am using the SB model and my tubes are 4" square PVC posts with 2 inch net pots.

I mean otherwise why waste my time to add H202 or Chlorine if it isn't highly beneficial. I am finding it pretty easy to keep my res temp at 71F so I am not so concerned with root rot.
 

fatman7574

New Member
farman you mentioned small tube aero systems being those who need artificially high DO, if I got that right. How small is small? I am using the SB model and my tubes are 4" square PVC posts with 2 inch net pots.

I mean otherwise why waste my time to add H202 or Chlorine if it isn't highly beneficial. I am finding it pretty easy to keep my res temp at 71F so I am not so concerned with root rot.
If you have anthing more than a thin layer of roots (say 1/4" thick) then you have roots that will receive little oygen withinin the mass of roots. One way to improve oxygen reaching the roots is to use root matting at the bottom of the tubes. This greatly improves the amount of water flowing under the root mass, thus improving the chances of increased oxygen within the mass of the roots. This equates to a lower chance of root rot. Anytime you have a large percentage of the roots lying in a stream of wayer or suspended in water rather than in air you are running a high DO dependent system. High DO dependent systems have higher rates of root rot and Pyhtium out breaks.

I do not recommend everyone use chlorine, Hydrogen peroxide or IMHO ill advised organic additions to a chemical/mineral based nutrient system . For those who do think treatment and preventative measures are advantageous in there situations then I recomend chlorine. The people who usually decide to use treatments and preventatives are those who run higher temps and those who change their reservoirs less often than is often considered advisable. There is seldom a need for anyone with low reservoir temps and high DO that change their nutrients often to ever need Chlorine, hydrogen peroxide or organic supplements such as hygrozyme or whatever they are now calling it.
 

MeJuana

Well-Known Member
fatman I love reading your posts and actually search for them. Thank you for the root matting suggestion I will figure out what that is and where to get it I assume my hydro guy will know.



Off Topic:
Does anyone know if this means I can't give fatman +rep ever again until I find someone else to give it to? I don't remember giving +rep today??? See following msg:

You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to fatman7574 again.
 
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