Can i Run Main Exhaust thro furnice exhaust?

epixbud

epixbud

Well-Known Member
Is it possible to tie my main grow exhaust into the furnice/water heater exhaust line?

or would it put too much air suction on the on the furnace and w.heater?

i wuz thinking of tie'n my 6" exhaust line into the main metal pipe chimney from the bottom blowing straight up, but the furnace and water heater exhaust lines are above that point and connect thro T's, will the air flow create backflow or over suction on the appliances?

I would Greatly Appreciate some Good Advice, hopefuly from someone who works or worked in the heating/cooling building/maintenace industry....

Much thanks in advance..........................:leaf:


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Cryptic stench

Cryptic stench

Member
hello friend, im an hvac tech, and i would avoid doing that... with some gas furnaces, that could work, because they have exhaust/draft inducing motors, but even like that, as a person familiar with heating equip, i believe it would cause more problems than anything. your water heater is likely natural draft, and any time you mess with the venting on any furnace or water heater, its either going to pull too hard o draft, or restrict exhaust flow causing hi temp limit device to trip, furnace over heats...ect. i know it seems real convenient, but its not worth a service call or fire. mabe make a phony heat run that blends in with the rest, and run it to some wall or crawl. good luck bud



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Check out my cloner.... https://www.rollitup.org/do-yourself/175476-my-diy-aero-cloner-51-a.html

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epixbud

epixbud

Well-Known Member
Cryptic stench said:
hello friend, im an hvac tech, and i would avoid doing that... with some gas furnaces, that could work, because they have exhaust/draft inducing motors, but even like that, as a person familiar with heating equip, i believe it would cause more problems than anything. your water heater is likely natural draft, and any time you mess with the venting on any furnace or water heater, its either going to pull too hard o draft, or restrict exhaust flow causing hi temp limit device to trip, furnace over heats...ect. i know it seems real convenient, but its not worth a service call or fire. mabe make a phony heat run that blends in with the rest, and run it to some wall or crawl. good luck bud




Hay man, Thank you very much, thats the exact kinda answere i wanted, +Rep for you.... i have no probs putting in a new chimney for it, just wondered if i could cheap out.... thankz ........ chimney parts store here i come........

.....................:weed:
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KitchenKhemist

KitchenKhemist

Active Member
I also am an HVAC tech and I see no problem with it. You've never tied a water heater flue in with a furnace? I did the exhaust on my buddy's room. It, and his boiler and water heater are tied into an old chimney...but that's beside the point.

If your heater is force-draft, you should have no problem tying your room exhaust in with these two pieces of equipment. Tie your exhaust into the main run with a wye after the furnace and water heater. Make sure to use a backdraft damper near your fan. You'll be fine. You'll never pull too hard a draft on a forced-draft piece of equipment with a typical inline fan, and worst-case on the water heater, you suck the pilot out, but that'd be hard to do...look at the flue on top of yours...they're not exactly airtight.

Save yourself some money...get a wye and a backdraft damper.
 
OregonMeds

OregonMeds

Well-Known Member
It's easier than you think to put in a new roof vent, and cheaper than buying a splitter or T. Directions are online if you want to DIY it. I had never done it before, and it still took less than 30 minutes.
 
mygirls

mygirls

Medical Marijuana (MOD)
epixbud said:
Is it possible to tie my main grow exhaust into the furnice/water heater exhaust line?

or would it put too much air suction on the on the furnace and w.heater?

i wuz thinking of tie'n my 6" exhaust line into the main metal pipe chimney from the bottom blowing straight up, but the furnace and water heater exhaust lines are above that point and connect thro T's, will the air flow create backflow or over suction on the appliances?

I would Greatly Appreciate some Good Advice, hopefuly from someone who works or worked in the heating/cooling building/maintenace industry....

Much thanks in advance..........................:leaf:


.........................................................:weed:

Check out my cloner.... https://www.rollitup.org/do-yourself/175476-my-diy-aero-cloner-51-a.html

Check out my grow.... https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/107075-ak-47-x-super-silver-37.html


...........................................................
Click to expand...
remember heat rises.
 
KitchenKhemist

KitchenKhemist

Active Member
OregonMeds said:
It's easier than you think to put in a new roof vent, and cheaper than buying a splitter or T. Directions are online if you want to DIY it. I had never done it before, and it still took less than 30 minutes.
Click to expand...

A wye costs me about 5 bucks...to install a new roof vent, you'll need a roof jack, storm cap, storm collar, caulk, not to mention the added expense of double-wall flue pipe to pass through the roof (unless you like the added attention gained by failure to follow mechanical codes associated with fire hazards....or you could just tell the city inspector it's exhaust I guess :-?).

You honestly cut a hole in your roof, installed the jack, pipe, collar and cap, AND tied it into your exhaust in 30 minutes?

It takes 30 minutes just to get everything required on the roof.
 
OregonMeds

OregonMeds

Well-Known Member
KitchenKhemist said:
A wye costs me about 5 bucks...to install a new roof vent, you'll need a roof jack, storm cap, storm collar, caulk, not to mention the added expense of double-wall flue pipe to pass through the roof (unless you like the added attention gained by failure to follow mechanical codes associated with fire hazards....or you could just tell the city inspector it's exhaust I guess :-?).

You honestly cut a hole in your roof, installed the jack, pipe, collar and cap, AND tied it into your exhaust in 30 minutes?

It takes 30 minutes just to get everything required on the roof.
Click to expand...
Yea that's more complicated I'm only talking about cutting a hole and putting in one of those one piece $10 air vents same as used for kitchen vents and bathrooms, really quite different. You slip the sides and top under the existing shingles like the others look on your roof and it's a no brainer. He's not installing a furnace or a fireplace, it is just air exhaust there may be heat directly off lights but with the airflow it should never get hot anyway. If it ever got that hot, that far along the chain, you'd have bigger problems than not using some chimney type exhaust.

I would like to know if I'm wrong code wise though, but to me there's no way it will ever put out more heat than my gas stoves vent which uses the exact same type of part on the roof and even comes with a totally plastic flex pipe.
 
KitchenKhemist

KitchenKhemist

Active Member
You should be fine, as long as your local code allows it. Lots of people have PVC sewer vents running through their roof. As a matter of fact, I just wasn't thinkin outside the box and you're right, an attic vent hooked to a plenum/exhaust run is a pretty good idea. I was just thinkin how easy it truly is to tie in a wye.

Here is something for everyone to consider when cutting NEW holes in their roof...

When the property tax man comes around surveying houses so they can jack up taxes each year, he looks for any and all improvements he can find from the outside of the house. This includes additions, new fencing, siding, windows, and yes.....new roof vents. An uncapped PVC vent that wasn't there the year before tells him you've added something that drains to the sewer (like a sink, shower, toilet) which usually means you've added (or remodeled) a bathroom. In some cases, this can also mean you've replaced your furnace with a more efficient one, but there should either be two vents somewhat close to each other (but at least 24" apart), or a single 4"-6" pipe with a concentric cap on it. A capped metal vent (needs to be double-wall pipe or you're in some shit) tells him you've added/replaced a furnace, water heater, kitchen hood, etc. An extra attic vent (anything made to simply vent your attic space) might be the best idea, as long as the guy isn't a super-nosey smartass.

This is just a problem a friend of mine ran into a fear years back. Probably won't happen to alot of people, but when his property taxes went up without reason, he appealed it. At his hearing, he stated that he hadn't done anything to modify his house, especially anything warranting such a high tax-increase. They asked him why he had that new 6" metal vent coming from his roof. I woulda shit my pants! Guess he was quick-on-his-feet and told them he replaced his furnace, but the old exhaust run was leaking into his walls, necessitating the installation of a new run.
 
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