thesecretvagina
Member
Yeah I meant that reflective material, thanks. I'd really like to see those light traps if you wouldn't mind.
EDIT: What are your temps like too?
EDIT: What are your temps like too?
What an awesome thread, will be staying tuned for sure......stay tuned for more micro dwc madness!!
wow thanks for breaking it down for everyone good info and insight. +repfaaarrrrkkkk i hate that!!
just typed up post with pics n all, then fuckin accidentaly closed my internet browser....
bah start again...
so as i was saying before my stoned head fucked up,
hey secret vagina! nice profile name by the way
in the pictures you get an idea of what ive done.
the front is boxed out with 30mm x 30mm pine and extends about 30mm below the case, becoming the front feet, and little blocks at the rear for feet.
so my intake is underneath the case and acts as an effective light trap for the front 2 120mm pc fans. they act as a passive intake and only get switched on when it gets hot outside.
i have my intake 120mm fans at the top and middle of the case as i have found it is the best for cooling the cfls. i have tried with the top fan at the bottom but ran hotter, not by much, but hotter nonetheless. works for me, the full front light trap gives me the flexibility to move my intake fans up or down.
the top trap sits in place for now until i silicone it down but its working well just sitting.
i used blower type fans for my exhausts as they are quieter and push more air than the pc fans but the top trap will work equally as well with normal 80 or 120mm fans.
the rear trap was a mad concoction one night after a few good cones, tin, tin snips, and rivets it works well for the bower fan but would be no good for a normal fan. for the rear you could make another one of the top traps for the rear which would work well.
we have recently come out of summer 40c+ days and ambient hangs around 29 at the moment and dropping as autumn sets in.
My case temps hang around 25c during the day with lights off, and 27.5c at night with lights on.
i run my 12/12 light schedule to come on at 7pm and go off at 7am so the case keeps cooler with the lights on with the ccoler night temps.
im not the greatest at explaining this so hopefully the pics speak a 1000 words for me
if you have any questions feel free to ask and i will answer them the best i can
welcome aboard pc grower uk! picture update tomorrow night when i do the res change!
theres a sneak peak of tomorrow nights update in the first pic
the pics didnt come up bro. where they at!!Update time! Day late but ya get that
Pics are from last night when I did the Res change.
My Ph levels start at 5.8 when I do the change and by next change the Ph has only risen to 6.1. Not bad for such a small Res I think
. I transplanted the soil girl into a larger pot and put her under the hps, but she hasn't taken well to the swap. I fear she may keel over very soon. Her lower leaves have drooped severely and half have gone brown yet the top stems look reasonably healthy... I'm not overly worried if she does die, I have dozens more seeds to play with
Anyway here's some pics of dwc girl at 7weeks from rooted clone, this strain would appear to flower for a while but that's OK I have my stash from last grow which will see me thru.
yea you will be good, plant might be a little stretchy but you'll be goodI haven't vegged with the hps before. Last grow I had a 70w mh for veg then swapped to the 150w hps for flower.
Dunno if I can be bothered rigging up the mh this time. You reckon it'll do OK with hps from the start?
yea either or!Ah that's OK if she stretches a little more, I'll make her my lst bitch! Haha
I can always use the scrog screen from the new setup too
what bulbs do you use for ur veg? mixed spec? all blue 3000k, 5000k?and how do you veg your clones to give everyone a better understanding. i notice when people who only have sodiums veg a clone under a hps that they are taller and have longer internodes then you would if you use the daylight for veg and warm for flowering. but then the red spectrum is also good for promoting root growth and also as we all know for flowering. so i see it as why dont we use both...better yet (if cab applies) use all spectrums seeing 3000k has best PAR and 5000k which is like mid day sun and try to aim for closest simulation as the sun as you can?!?! if I mixed spectrum i would keep it heavy on w.e state my plant was in (i.e if in veg more 6500k then every other bulb vice versa when flowering) but throw in more spectrum's. yea 2700k makes for stretchy plants and sometimes buds stretch to...sometimes... but i bet with a nice mix we would get sweet results.Awesome root growth on the Dwc one. I use aquashield in my reservoir and change it weekly but I have 4 clones competing so next grow will be 3 or less as a couple seem to grow faster even though they came from the same mother. What's the flowering cycle of your strain? Hps is ideal for flowering and should make your buds denser. I am going to eventually build a dedicated flowering cab using either 150w or 250w hps while keeping my current setup for veg only with cfl's. You'll veg faster with a mh bulb but cfl's suit me fine.