Check the plant!

Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
A.K.A. Overgrowem said:
Water only, or with a smidge of molasses (5 to 10% run-off) is not flushing. I water without nutes. every 4th time, only flush on the last watering b4 harvest, even then not super heavy.
Click to expand...
I find run off in soil plants as being counter productive! If you have to do a water to run off - your over feeding.

Synthetic nutrients are best feed on the "every other watering" method.....All most mandatory for hydroponic nutrients.

There are perfectly usable low dose NPK values that if applied properly, can, be delivered on a "every watering" basis. Not hard to learn but, you should know what your doing growing before attempting it....

I'm curious! What do you say the molasses is doing for you at this point (not a bad idea in a way but, depending on the nutrition used. Not going to make any difference either).

Why flush at all?
 
A.K.A. Overgrowem

A.K.A. Overgrowem

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
I find run off in soil plants as being counter productive! If you have to do a water to run off - your over feeding.

Synthetic nutrients are best feed on the "every other watering" method.....All most mandatory for hydroponic nutrients.

There are perfectly usable low dose NPK values that if applied properly, can, be delivered on a "every watering" basis. Not hard to learn but, you should know what your doing growing before attempting it....

I'm curious! What do you say the molasses is doing for you at this point (not a bad idea in a way but, depending on the nutrition used. Not going to make any difference either).

Why flush at all?
Click to expand...
I have seen salt build up on leaves using even low end ppms, plain water seems to skower the plant and soil keeping buildup down. The molasses is giving a boost to the microbes in the soil. Increasing their number going forward.
 
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Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
A.K.A. Overgrowem said:
I have seen salt build up on leaves using even low end ppms, plain water seems to keep this down for me. The molasses is giving a boost to the microbes in the soil. Which frees up whatever weak nutes that may be left in the soil w/o actually adding neuts.
Click to expand...
I see.....I never, ever had ANY build up problems in decades of growing - when using the nutrient properly!

Yes, the molasses will do that - for healthy living bio herds in soil. Thing is, if you use synthetic nutrition, the bio herd is not really healthy enough to use the carbs very well.....It does help a bit, so not a "bad" idea......You can start trying AACT bio teas on a weekly basis....thing is that synthetics are all plant ready, right? The use of that method will MAKE you decrease nutrient use by 50% to start with, or you'll cook your plants so fast it'll make your head spin!
So, your guess at residual nutrients "left" in the soil is close! I suspect that such an active bio herd in the synthetic rich soil - make the nutrients MORE available and increase uptake to insane levels!
This was the last line of experimenting I did before going back to 100% organic soils. I had that shit down to 1/3 "normal" nutrient use (and for me that was a daily thing) and I had to do my feeding on the every other watering basis! This made for some massive plants with crushing yields at only 1/6th the amount of nutrient normally used (this also involved a supplement known as SEA GREEN)! Now THAT's saving money on nutrient !

I must say here that unless you know what your looking at for problems and you can dial in nutrients to strains quickly.....this experiment will be a long and frustrating process for you! It changes ratios considerably and adjusting balance of NPK is the key and rest is the "lock" the key fits in.....If you understand that and have space to do it alongside your regular runs - give it a try and amaze yourself! Increase the use of the AACT a bit too.....that has a big impact!

Another member here started to experiment with that....Asked if there was anyone else who's tried that.....We had a long chat and as far as I know. He's still doing it with better smoother results.......For the life of me i can't think of his name......Don't get old! first thing that goes is remembering names....He liked AN and ran a grow store...he took lots a crap for liking AN but, hey, it worked for him...right?
 
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J

Joe mashpatots

Member
Lost the super yellow plant. bought locals soil and I thinkin it the stem of the problems. single cola looking bad, the topped one leaves stop yellow progression, leaves closest to soil straighten out no more claw or canoe.
 
A.K.A. Overgrowem

A.K.A. Overgrowem

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
I see.....I never, ever had ANY build up problems in decades of growing - when using the nutrient properly!

Yes, the molasses will do that - for healthy living bio herds in soil. Thing is, if you use synthetic nutrition, the bio herd is not really healthy enough to use the carbs very well.....It does help a bit, so not a "bad" idea......You can start trying AACT bio teas on a weekly basis....thing is that synthetics are all plant ready, right? The use of that method will MAKE you decrease nutrient use by 50% to start with, or you'll cook your plants so fast it'll make your head spin!
So, your guess at residual nutrients "left" in the soil is close! I suspect that such an active bio herd in the synthetic rich soil - make the nutrients MORE available and increase uptake to insane levels!
This was the last line of experimenting I did before going back to 100% organic soils. I had that shit down to 1/3 "normal" nutrient use (and for me that was a daily thing) and I had to do my feeding on the every other watering basis! This made for some massive plants with crushing yields at only 1/6th the amount of nutrient normally used (this also involved a supplement known as SEA GREEN)! Now THAT's saving money on nutrient !

I must say here that unless you know what your looking at for problems and you can dial in nutrients to strains quickly.....this experiment will be a long and frustrating process for you! It changes ratios considerably and adjusting balance of NPK is the key and rest is the "lock" the key fits in.....If you understand that and have space to do it alongside your regular runs - give it a try and amaze yourself! Increase the use of the AACT a bit too.....that has a big impact!

Another member here started to experiment with that....Asked if there was anyone else who's tried that.....We had a long chat and as far as I know. He's still doing it with better smoother results.......For the life of me i can't think of his name......Don't get old! first thing that goes is remembering names....He liked AN and ran a grow store...he took lots a crap for liking AN but, hey, it worked for him...right?
Click to expand...
Bet I'm older than you? Started A compost barrel last month, gonna Start more organics in bout 6? mos.. Organics now are Alaska Fish Fert., Maxicrop Liquid Seaweed and Molasses. Here's some ?s I wonder about, Any ideas if adding molasses to soil B4 adding germed beans would give them a head start? Would plants tolerate powdered mustard spray or nicotine tea to battle mites? Will plants tolerate a diatomaceous powdering? Would Eucalyptus oil spray, not sprayed on soil or plants drive off pests? Another curiosity for me is seedling performance. At 7 days me plants look like grower A's plant at 5 days. At 10 days my plants look like grower A's plants at 7 days. At 14 days my plants look like grower A's plants at 11 days. Etc. They seem to ketch up at about 4 weeks. Got any practices to punch up seedling performance?
 
Roger A. Shrubber

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
it looks like way too much veg nutes, not enough P, and you aren't letting it dry out enough between waterings, which is why your plant can't get enough P. cut back on the N and the water
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
A.K.A. Overgrowem said:
Bet I'm older than you? Started A compost barrel last month, gonna Start more organics in bout 6? mos.. Organics now are Alaska Fish Fert., Maxicrop Liquid Seaweed and Molasses. Here's some ?s I wonder about, Any ideas if adding molasses to soil B4 adding germed beans would give them a head start? Would plants tolerate powdered mustard spray or nicotine tea to battle mites? Will plants tolerate a diatomaceous powdering? Would Eucalyptus oil spray, not sprayed on soil or plants drive off pests? Another curiosity for me is seedling performance. At 7 days me plants look like grower A's plant at 5 days. At 10 days my plants look like grower A's plants at 7 days. At 14 days my plants look like grower A's plants at 11 days. Etc. They seem to ketch up at about 4 weeks. Got any practices to punch up seedling performance?
Click to expand...
Turning 59 in less then 6 months...for what that's worth...Put my first seed to soil at 15 on a commune in N Cali.....same worth - lol

1: No, I would use the Maxicrop as that would jump the root growth big time (over anything else). Large amounts of molasses in soils can cause problems! Too much and the soil can ferment. This kills off living bio's and the soil goes anaerobic too. Very bad thing.

2: Powdered mustard? interesting...I would think yes and I'm interested if it works at all. Not sure it would per the concentrations of the active chems that might have any affect on them in mustard (raw).

3: Neonicotinoid insecticides (nicotine chemical complex derived) Have been found to be the cause of colony collapse and straight out can kill bee's......They are toxic to humans and home done versions with high concentrations could kill! Dangerous stuff to play with..
They are not exactly good at controlling mites. In talking with a chemist at Beyer AG. I was told that when used (especially as a root drench for root aphids) it will cause many plants to put out a (stress) pheromone that will actually attract mites! I'm an organic guy...Mites are a plague and are quickly developing tolerance to many contact killers......I go right to FORBID 4F and be done in one shot (I did extensive research into forbid and it's active chemical - I feel quite secure using it).

4: LOL, my broken record response is "Kelp extract" use in all watering......accurate nutrient use in young and juvenile plants. If your organic, as long as enough is available. The plant will thrive (I kinda like Thrive Alive green label for kelp extract in seedling use. it has low amounts of available nutrition (that Maxi don't) that boosts a bit when not feeding "anything" to start).

That help?
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Joe mashpatots said:
I'm thinking she need phosphate, most effected leaves are the ones in the light the most. purple leaves curling up and die, the big fan leaves. any suggestions. RESPECT!!
Click to expand...
Looks like you are over watering and that (at one point) led to a pH problem and a nute block. Looks like the plant has/is fighting out of the pH problem.....
Water less and you should be fine!
 
A.K.A. Overgrowem

A.K.A. Overgrowem

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
Turning 59 in less then 6 months...for what that's worth...Put my first seed to soil at 15 on a commune in N Cali.....same worth - lol

1: No, I would use the Maxicrop as that would jump the root growth big time (over anything else). Large amounts of molasses in soils can cause problems! Too much and the soil can ferment. This kills off living bio's and the soil goes anaerobic too. Very bad thing.

2: Powdered mustard? interesting...I would think yes and I'm interested if it works at all. Not sure it would per the concentrations of the active chems that might have any affect on them in mustard (raw).

3: Neonicotinoid insecticides (nicotine chemical complex derived) Have been found to be the cause of colony collapse and straight out can kill bee's......They are toxic to humans and home done versions with high concentrations could kill! Dangerous stuff to play with..
They are not exactly good at controlling mites. In talking with a chemist at Beyer AG. I was told that when used (especially as a root drench for root aphids) it will cause many plants to put out a (stress) pheromone that will actually attract mites! I'm an organic guy...Mites are a plague and are quickly developing tolerance to many contact killers......I go right to FORBID 4F and be done in one shot (I did extensive research into forbid and it's active chemical - I feel quite secure using it).

4: LOL, my broken record response is "Kelp extract" use in all watering......accurate nutrient use in young and juvenile plants. If your organic, as long as enough is available. The plant will thrive (I kinda like Thrive Alive green label for kelp extract in seedling use. it has low amounts of available nutrition (that Maxi don't) that boosts a bit when not feeding "anything" to start).

That help?
Click to expand...
Yep I've got a decade or so on you. Been growin bout 10 years. since I discovered a grow site on the net. Had been fiddling with plants off and on since early 20s, never got much past seedling. Early site gave me the blue print I needed to grow successfully. Then I found early ROI, lurked about a yr. joined and it has been my go to source ever since. Light on molasses is a given. I had never thought bout a Maxicrop feeding b4 beans. Mustard spray is effective on larger pests, used a weak mix of that and nicotine tea on out door plants. Just didn't know if a smaller less hardened indoor plant would/could tolerate it. Seems anything with an eye would have to flee?.
I'll start using the kelp more often in my grows. I used a root zone Thrive product for my first 2 yrs. the supplier near me only carried it 1 season, Buy the time it ran out I had my C02 going and had moved into bigger pots, so I dropped it. The Maxicrop tip for seedlings is much appreciated. Thanks 4 the reply
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
A.K.A. Overgrowem said:
Yep I've got a decade or so on you. Been growin bout 10 years. since I discovered a grow site on the net. Had been fiddling with plants off and on since early 20s, never got much past seedling. Early site gave me the blue print I needed to grow successfully. Then I found early ROI, lurked about a yr. joined and it has been my go to source ever since. Light on molasses is a given. I had never thought bout a Maxicrop feeding b4 beans. Mustard spray is effective on larger pests, used a weak mix of that and nicotine tea on out door plants. Just didn't know if a smaller less hardened indoor plant would/could tolerate it. Seems anything with an eye would have to flee?.
I'll start using the kelp more often in my grows. I used a root zone Thrive product for my first 2 yrs. the supplier near me only carried it 1 season, Buy the time it ran out I had my C02 going and had moved into bigger pots, so I dropped it. The Maxicrop tip for seedlings is much appreciated. Thanks 4 the reply
Click to expand...
Your welcome and no problem...
 
J

Joe mashpatots

Member
Roger A. Shrubber said:
it looks like way too much veg nutes, not enough P, and you aren't letting it dry out enough between waterings, which is why your plant can't get enough P. cut back on the N and the water
Click to expand...
From the flushing every 2 weeks.
Dr. Who said:
Looks like you are over watering and that (at one point) led to a pH problem and a nute block. Looks like the plant has/is fighting out of the pH problem.....
Water less and you should be fine!
Click to expand...
yea I was flushing every two weeks.
 
theslipperbandit

theslipperbandit

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
I find run off in soil plants as being counter productive! If you have to do a water to run off - your over feeding.

Synthetic nutrients are best feed on the "every other watering" method.....All most mandatory for hydroponic nutrients.

There are perfectly usable low dose NPK values that if applied properly, can, be delivered on a "every watering" basis. Not hard to learn but, you should know what your doing growing before attempting it....

I'm curious! What do you say the molasses is doing for you at this point (not a bad idea in a way but, depending on the nutrition used. Not going to make any difference either).

Why flush at all?
Click to expand...
I feed every watering one is veg n si other is cannazyme seaweed calmag n that's not changed till week 5 when I half veg n flowering then lower calmag slightly n just read the leafs....took ages mind and I use syringes n take notes as I run different strains..last feed they only got calmag and loved it.20161215_173157_noexif.jpgfor a while I thought I was getting calmag issues but I'd my 19 inch on full wacky so had to buy a 4" mix flow for intake and it's amazing with my fan speed controller (sms) she calculates n adjusts the neg pressure for min wastage of power...so effective I've my 16"off n a 9" doing the lower canopy...getting 850w worth of cob in there soon so I may turn her to one just for general circulation but u also said I'd not em so the colas have support but as u can see I'm super lazy
 
Buba Blend

Buba Blend

Well-Known Member
Joe mashpatots said:
Your late to the game buddy, bud growth has returned to normal.
Click to expand...
I'm glad it returned to normal. I posted hear Oct. 27th and was hoping it got resolved. Good Luck!

A.K.A. Overgrowem said:
Yep I've got a decade or so on you. Been growin bout 10 years. since I discovered a grow site on the net. Had been fiddling with plants off and on since early 20s, never got much past seedling. Early site gave me the blue print I needed to grow successfully. Then I found early ROI, lurked about a yr. joined and it has been my go to source ever since. Light on molasses is a given. I had never thought bout a Maxicrop feeding b4 beans. Mustard spray is effective on larger pests, used a weak mix of that and nicotine tea on out door plants. Just didn't know if a smaller less hardened indoor plant would/could tolerate it. Seems anything with an eye would have to flee?.
I'll start using the kelp more often in my grows. I used a root zone Thrive product for my first 2 yrs. the supplier near me only carried it 1 season, Buy the time it ran out I had my C02 going and had moved into bigger pots, so I dropped it. The Maxicrop tip for seedlings is much appreciated. Thanks 4 the reply
Click to expand...
Your story is similar to mine in some ways.
When I started trolling this site 2 years ago after growing for 20 years with no problems, I learned some good stuff and also I learned wrongly to water to 20% run off and to flush and ran into 2 bad grows. I was saved by Dr Who 3 weeks into flowering this grow and am days from harvest at 12 weeks.

I'm curious if you found yourself picking up any bad habits from the forums when you 1st started reading them.

Edit: Opps!. I just saw this thread had ended Nov 2nd. Anyway glad things got back to normal.
 
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A.K.A. Overgrowem

A.K.A. Overgrowem

Well-Known Member
Buba Blend said:
I'm glad it returned to normal. I posted hear Oct. 27th and was hoping it got resolved. Good Luck!



Your story is similar to mine in some ways.
When I started trolling this site 2 years ago after growing for 20 years with no problems, I learned some good stuff and also I learned wrongly to water to 20% run off and to flush and ran into 2 bad grows. I was saved by Dr Who 3 weeks into flowering this grow and am days from harvest at 12 weeks.

I'm curious if you found yourself picking up any bad habits from the forums when you 1st started reading them.

Edit: Opps!. I just saw this thread had ended Nov 2nd. Anyway glad things got back to normal.
Click to expand...
Peeps say don't flush I started that on my first grow that got that far, 2nd grow, and still do. Wasn't so much bad habits, more like filling in the blanks to manage a complete grow. Little things like, getting soil drainage right, extra nitrogen early, spoting Cal-Mad def. early, plastic bag drying, 24hr dark b4 harvest ( may be a wives tale ? ). For a few grows I didn't top, used side light, that, I guess, was a bad habit. I think my worst habit from early forums was not flowering in big enough pots. Said several times " Wish I had grown her in a larger pot".
 
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