ChilLED or Kind layout.

BM9AGS

Well-Known Member
I

Want to do it this way for the reasons I have stated. custom color dimming and on/off control, spectra with good results, want to copy because it's easier than trying to work out all the individual details, and obviously LED for power saving and efficacy.
Just FYI California light works solar system 550 can be bought for about 550 and that's 400w of osram leds. I'm sure you can diy for better but not sure it's much better. The CLW have color dimming and the cool stuff.

Whatever you do it'll be cool to watch. With the CLW I got about 1 lb per 400w light so that's pretty good. With cobs it's a lb and quarter. Different strains from seed and pot sizes do not a comparison. The CLW had 3 weeks more veg time and bigger pots.
 

CobKits

Well-Known Member
ok id recommend
2 parts 450 nm
1 part 3000k 80 cri
2 parts 630 nm
6 parts 660 nm
1 part 730 nm

or thereabouts.

and thats going to give you a similar spectrum to the kind/solarstorm one i linked above

worth noting that both the solarstorms and kind have white in them. every decent purple manufacturer has included more and more white with every successive generation (those kinds are about 2-3 year old design, the solarstorms have been succeeded by the solarsystems which have more white). BML (now fluence) is another example of a purple mfr gone predominantly white

growmau5 (who actually did a run with the chillleds, look it up) found little to no use for supplemental red blues in his "canopy 10" design. if anything, 730 is the most missing from the cob spectrum.

i have some of cutters cree 660, 450, and 730 linear pcbs (as well as a bunch of different whites) laying around if you want to experiment with those pm me. i bought them to do a clone of the solarsystems but never got around to it

also check out vegas winners 8-channel arduino boards for your dimming

have fun!
 

Xcoregamerskillz

Well-Known Member
ok id recommend
2 parts 450
1 part 3000k 80 cri
1 part 630 nm
6 parts 660 nm
1 pat 730 nm

or thereabouts.

and thats going to give you a similar spectrum to the kind/solarstorm one i linked above

worth noting that both the solarstorms and kind have white in them. every decent purple manufacturer has included more and more white with every successive generation (those kinds are about 2-3 year old design, the solarstorms have been succeeded by the solarsystems which have more white). BML is another example

growmau5 (who actually did a run with the chillleds, look it up) found little to no use for supplemental red blues in his "canopy 10" design. if anything, 730 is the most missing from the cob spectrum.

i have some of cutters cree 660, 450, and 730 linear pcbs (as well as a bunch of different whites) laying around if you want to experiment with those pm me. i bought them to do a clone of the solarsystems but never got around to it

also check out vegas winners 8-channel arduino boards for your dimming

have fun!
Yeah, i saw that his addition of red blue to the canopy 10, and saw that he didn't gain. I am waiting for his results from the chill. thanks for the info on the diodes, it is appreciated. anyway, back to work, will work more stuff out in a few hours.

Also, I'm going to use Pot dimming and switches for different color modes to start and add an arduino later
 
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CobKits

Well-Known Member
^i kind of tweaked that a bit since you quoted it.

after many years i still love purples but its really hard to go back from the results im seeing with 3000k
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
I use a similar output per sf. I use 400w cobs with 48w -Deep Red, 48w IR, 48w-Far Red and 48w-Royal Blue for veg and I see better inter-nodal growth and healthier growth in vegetative stage, and more stretch, and quicker growth with sunrise/sunset Deep Red/Far Red timing. I assumed you wanted to know the general layout of the fixture. Those diodes also needs lenses to improve focal plane and point, and there are three channels for CillLed Red/Blue/White. My layout is based on most professional grow lights and NASA research. I use my own controller, GrowGreen like ChilledLed does to control each channel of colors, I use six channels 2-COB channels and 4-Color Diode channels with a 48v power supply similar to the Canopy ten model before Growmau5 revealed his light. I listened to others and came up with my own best light for me. You decide what is best for you and your grow and you can do the same. If you want a light buolt like someone elses, just get that light and grow. I hear ChilledLed is selling that 400w model on discount and in a group cost model too.
 

CobKits

Well-Known Member
The whole 730 nm problem seems to not be so much of a problem in 90 cri stuff. We are switching to 90 cri in the Maximizer and soon the CX series as well
im still curious if the 90 cri finish faster like the separate 730 on a timer after hours

seems like it might be the case
 

Xcoregamerskillz

Well-Known Member
I use a similar output per sf. I use 400w cobs with 48w -Deep Red, 48w IR, 48w-Far Red and 48w-Royal Blue for veg and I see better inter-nodal growth and healthier growth in vegetative stage, and more stretch, and quicker growth with sunrise/sunset Deep Red/Far Red timing. I assumed you wanted to know the general layout of the fixture. Those diodes also needs lenses to improve focal plane and point, and there are three channels for CillLed Red/Blue/White. My layout is based on most professional grow lights and NASA research. I use my own controller, GrowGreen like ChilledLed does to control each channel of colors, I use six channels 2-COB channels and 4-Color Diode channels with a 48v power supply similar to the Canopy ten model before Growmau5 revealed his light. I listened to others and came up with my own best light for me. You decide what is best for you and your grow and you can do the same. If you want a light buolt like someone elses, just get that light and grow. I hear ChilledLed is selling that 400w model on discount and in a group cost model too.
Do you have a pic of your set up?
 

Xcoregamerskillz

Well-Known Member
I attached two more smaller heatsinks with the Deep Red/IR on both sides. works great
That's pretty slick. I'd like to do something like that. for now I think I'm going to start with cobs and add far red later. that's an awesome light tho. thanks again to everyone for the help and info. you guys rock.
 

CobKits

Well-Known Member
How much more per watt are you getting out of 3000k?
i dunno. i havent let wifey out of the basement after commingling the best run ever with another tent on the backside. noticeable difference tho. to the point where mold in our dry mountain climate is becoming a concern because size and density are way up
 

MeGaKiLlErMaN

Well-Known Member
i dunno. i havent let wifey out of the basement after commingling the best run ever with another tent on the backside. noticeable difference tho. to the point where mold in our dry mountain climate is becoming a concern because size and density are way up
so about a pound. ^
 
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