Chocolope leafs Curling down and dark underneath

trapper said:

i just use the stuff safers makes cant remeber what its called,but i never had powdery mildew but i have sprayed for mold useing the safers stuff i believe you can use it for powdery mildew,i will try and find the label see what its called.but do not baby them to much,you can kill them with kindness.

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Baking soda and water works good for fungus and mold. But i dont see any fungus or mold.

i sprayed with serenade.keep them from the healthy ones if you can for awhile untill you find whats up.try to help you through it.

The more I look the more the downy mildew sceario makes sense - the only piece of the puzzle that doesnt fit is the high rh requirement (but like one of you said earlier who knows what the rh is between the soil nad that first leaf. I mean, look at this description and the pic with that article - fits to a tee "angular lesions are bounded by leaf veins. However, downy mildew infection results in a soft, fluffy gray, brown or purple fungal sporulation developing on the underside of leaves"

See the lesions bounded by veins and fungal sporulation on the underside in the last pic of mine? I'm gonna try to get some serenade tomorrow. what will cutting off that first set of leaves (real leaves not cotyledons) do to the plants?

i had what looked like powdery mildew,im not sure why it went away as the plant got older,but it did,im not sure what it was but i was worried because it was from my own breeding and those i like to keep,i didnt spray them with anything and it went away,but im not suggesting that,it is hard to tell by pics but if your 75%sure it is powdery mildew go ahead and spray with serenade,as for removeing the leaves it is not great but its not the end of the world,i just had to trim plants that were 3/4 dead from offgassing and all that was left was a few leafs and the new shoot comeing out and they are all vigorous again.so dont worry and just try to make sure you have good air movement and plenty of fresh air,what part of the country are you in.but do keep the ones seperate from the healthy.

woah wtf....

not powdery, downy - apparently it doesn't seem to be one of the more common fungi in growing but what can I say, I'm unique. THe crazy thing is that I can see powdery and other fungi all over shrubs outside but nothing like whats on my plants. Anyway, I gave the bad ones a copper soap bath last night and today hit the other ones with Serenade. It contains beneficial bacteria that feed on fungi. I'll hit the affected ones with it in a few days. The stuff seems really cool because it is just beneficial bacteria not a bunch of chemicals. I will update with results.

Is it only on the single bladed leaves? Its probably just a micronutrient issue from early sprout. Also do you mist them with water?
Also those cups look really dry, and when i look at the family photo, i see that two of them look like the edges of the leaves are curling up. When you water the cups, do you water till water runs out, and then let them dry until they are light when you pic them up?

the single bladed leaves are the only ones with the lighter spots showing on top but some of the others have the dark grey/blue fuzz underneath. I haven't misted them b/c I wanted to avoid this kind of thing. The soil on top was new so yes it was very dry, also, i was trying watering from the bottom. The think I was most afraid of was overwatering. Two days ago I watered them from the top and am letting them dry now. I am trying to get on a good cycle - but some of them are much dryer than the others. The one that is real wilted (but still green) doesnt seem to be drinking at all. Should I not worry about the ones that are dry and wait till they all are and then water? I will start "light feeding" on the next water. Should I feed every time?

On a side, the most ammature loking one to the right in the family pic - is a freebee Pure Power from G13, I threw it in about a week after the others - straight into the pro mix after soaking overnight in a shot glass with a drop of super thrive. Covered the cup with cling wrap and kept in the dark for two days. Then when it sprouted threw it under the t5 with the others. No more humidity domes and extra attention for my seedlings - that littl bugger is way better off than the rest at the same age. Maybe it's the strain?

you must water when dry,you cant really have a schedule with young plants,some are more robust then the others,and yes it could be the strain,i just germinated a batch of god bud again,it was half as healthy as when i grew them a few years back,i think some beans we get are old or immature,or just rushed out to the public,i germinated them side by side with a batch of godbud/rhino crosses i made,mine were health and vigouros while the new god bud is sickly looking,i dont even want to waste my time on them.not all beans are vibrant,i heare more and more people getting junk these days.but if dry water untill it comes out the bottom,then let dry out a bit.

i feed every time but i only give them 600 ppm each feeding,if it is hot and dry and they are thirsty every day or 2 then i just use water in between,but for the most part my plants are on 5 day feedings,but it depends on size of plant and pot,but you have to know the plant,its all trial and error in the beginning.

Trapper, thanks. I gave them 250 ppm today, dont want to over do it. I'll step it up next time. THe one that's all shriveled isnt drinking at all - should I toss her?

if its dead its dead,i dont know how shriveled it is,but ive seen alot of things bounce back,but if it is indeed bad before tossing it take a look at the roots and then cut the stem in half see if it has anything,but its also good to study the plants for the purpose of learning,it makes growing that more enjoyable,ya 250 is a good start.ive got a few cutting right now one is supposed to be a jacks cleaner and ive not gone past 600 in the last few months,but i have a northern lights#5 and a black dominia that can take much more,so watch as you go.

so how are things going,have you fixed the problem,and did you throw out the shrivelled one,take care trapper.

trapper said:

so how are things going,have you fixed the problem,and did you throw out the shrivelled one,take care trapper.

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Hey Trapper,

I think that serenade did the trick. I kept them all trimmed some of the really bad leaves - the worst one started drinking, it still looks kinda jacked but it might end up being a super star.

Now something new popped up. Same type of spots and then some but no mildew underneath. It seems not to be spreading so I am going to try to get them into some 1 gal containers later. I know that at least two of them are dying to get out of those cups (drinking their fill every day.) You can check out a couple picks of the new damage here and thanks for your help.
https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/165221-heat-humidity-nutes-pics.html

ive never seen it quite like that,i used to get a more red purple look at the beggining of new shoots from the temp change,they were always good,but ive never seen rust like that right at that spot.i hope you are not fighting a loseing battle with some virus,have you isolated the heaqlthy from the problem ones or do you even have that option.i dont think its humidity or temps,maybe foilar spray not sure,but your humidity and temps are all decent,nothing drastic,i never used the nutes you are useing,how old are your plants now and how many are healthy how many are sicik.

4 completely healthy and five showing various signs of issues. They are almost three weeks from seed. When you say maybe foliar spray - what do you mean? Are you saying I should or you think it could have been that spray I used? That, the serenade and the initial copper soap are the only things I've sprayed on them. The nutes are a simple 3 part system from green air. A friend who did this very well in the past recomended it. I can't really isolate them right now. I am tempted just to get them into bigger pots and in a better environement and roll the dice???

i dont think it is burn from foilar spray because of were its at and your useing t5s,3 weeks from seed is a delicate time the leaf is very soft and hasnt really hardened yet,i would try and seperate as much as possible and keep a close eye on it,if they remain sick just keep the healthy,you only need 1 good mother for all the clones you want,if you have the space go ahead and repot,make sure the soil is almost dry before transplanting,but im not sure at 3 weeks they need transplanting,but only transplant the ones that have nice white roots circling the bottom of the cups,also i never really had to feed untill about the end of 3rd week,i use ro water because my town water is 900ppm on a good day,so i give it a little superthrive or is it thrivealive b1 and a little growzyme to bring my ro water too 200 ppm for first 3 weeks,then i use nutes depending on the need,some may not even need it at 3 but if they do i give a an equal dose of grow micro bloom for its first feeding at about 450 ppm then i use the old 3-2-1 ratio of grow micro bloom and some gauno during veg and i never go over 680 untill the feeding i put it into flower,but your not their yet,but a buddies going to look at your pics to see if he can identify the problem.

I've probably Burned them then. It just made sense to add something since there is no top soil in the mix - and in nature they would have all kinds of nutrients available wouldnt they? When I transplant, should I be wetting the soil with just ph'd water n super thrive or a feed mix? I made one to about 250 but now am having second (third etc) thoughts. Also, a lot of my advice was coming long distance from an old friend - but he only used clones. I'm learning that apparently they can take food a lot sooner than seedlings.

Here's something, the new spottes and browning are at the tops of the plants not the bottom - that doesnt support the nute burn theory does it??? I can't take any more pics right now but the discoloration is in various places - spots in the middle, the browning that you see in the first pic at the base and something that looks like burn along one of the leaf edges - but again all the new damage is at the top wheareas before it was the bottom (with the mildew) so maybe it was that spray sitting there under the t5's?

overmyhead said:

I've probably Burned them then. It just made sense to add something since there is no top soil in the mix - and in nature they would have all kinds of nutrients available wouldnt they? When I transplant, should I be wetting the soil with just ph'd water n super thrive or a feed mix? I made one to about 250 but now am having second (third etc) thoughts. Also, a lot of my advice was coming long distance from an old friend - but he only used clones. I'm learning that apparently they can take food a lot sooner than seedlings.

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no 250 is ok i like to use a higher phosphrous during transplant,but it is not overly important just keep it simple right now and give it about a 1/4 strength of required for first feeding,and yes clones can take alot more in more ways then one compared to seeds.it may be foilar spray burn it may be nute burn it may be a virus,only time will tell,it is important to not over treat things,you have sprayed for mold,now just give it a light feeding of nutes for transplant and see if they come around,if you mess around to much you will kill them,remember it is a weed and they should be able to take alot as long as your giveing them light,fresh air and water/nutes.and make sure you have a light breeze blowing around them to build stock and vigor and to keep them from becomeing stagnant.remember if you have alot of minor problems with them now you will have major headaches later,i know it is hard to chuck a seed but sometimes we have to,it is the survival of the fittest,but from what i read your enviroment is not dismal so things should be better,im guessing you fed to early and also may have gotten a virus/mold.you should get a 30x magnifier they are like 15 bucks,easy to spot bugs and such.