Cloning BlueBerry

Seedlessone

Well-Known Member
Ok I need some advice from someone that has worked with Blueberry before. From what all Ive gathered (other than being a bitch to grow) its very hard to clone. So with that being said any tips from someone with BB experience? And when meaning hard to clone, are we talking about hard to root? or high probabilty of hermies? thanks guys~
 

leafwrapper

Well-Known Member
i do not have any experience with blueberry but a freind of mine used to grow it, i remember when he got started he had a hard time getting the clones to root and had to get an old time grower to get them going. this dosent really help just realized that lol.
 

Seedlessone

Well-Known Member
i do not have any experience with blueberry but a freind of mine used to grow it, i remember when he got started he had a hard time getting the clones to root and had to get an old time grower to get them going. this dosent really help just realized that lol.
LOL thanks for the try bro.....yeah i cant really seem to find a solid answer...I guess ill start cutting clones like a mad man and see what happens...
 

cali-high

Well-Known Member
do you have a propagation dome?



what kind of lights are you using?


if you are using floros are you using cool or warm or a mixture?



what are you going to put the clones into after you cut em?


my favorite is the hockey puks aka peat moss cup things. theyre really good for clones but its up to you.



peace
cali-high:joint:
 

videoman40

Well-Known Member
Seedless, I cant help ya out here, but I was wondering about your statement "(other than being a bitch to grow)"
Please elaborate for me, as I have some coming!
If you can, PM me.
Peace
 

potroast

Uses the Rollitup profile
Yeah, Man! bongsmilie

I used to grow the original Blueberry. A really and truly sweet smoke! thus the name, and because the foliage turns blue when the colors fade. And the stone is outstanding! Mostly indica, she finishes nicely in 60 days. She's got some original Thai in her background, as well as a couple other heritage strains, and she will grow tall and lanky, sativa-like, and then have sparse indica-like buds. Very tight, beautiful buds, but just not enough of them. I kept the mother for several years, and included some of them in about 5 or 6 crops, and decided not to grow her any more. A definite favorite because there are so many crosses using the original.

Oh yeah, I never had any trouble rooting cuttings. :mrgreen:
 

mogie

Well-Known Member
Some varieties are easier to clone than others. There are Sativas that will sprout roots so easy, you can (almost) stick them in the ground and forget em. But then there are some early Indicas that you can baby and they will just sit there and starve to death. So there are a few things you have got to look at.

Help the roots grow. Figure out where the roots will grow on your cutting before you actually cut it. Keep this portion of the stem dark for a week or two by wrapping some tape around it. This is called "etiolation" and will encourage rooting. Make the cutting with a sharp anvil pruner or very sharp scissors, and sterilize them after each cut. A dull pruner will crush the stem and it will be harder for the roots to form. A razor blade will make an even cleaner cut, which will also help rooting, but don't blame me if you cut yourself. Try to make the cut at angle to increase the surface area it has to absorb water.

The plant needs air to help the roots form, but don't let any get in the stem. This will cut off the capillary action and make the poor cutting work harder. Immediately dunk the cut end in water or rooting solution to prevent this from happening. You could even take it over to the sink and make a second cut under running water if you're really worried about it. Leave it in the rooting solution for a day or so. If you just leave it in the water, you might get lucky and sprout some roots, but they really need some oxygen. You can actively provide O2 by aeration or passively aerate by using an airy medium.

Another thing that makes the cutting work harder is breathing itself. Use a plastic dome or humidity tent to limit transpiration and keep the medium from drying out, and. Half of a 16 oz plastic drink bottle fits right on top of a 3 inch clay pot. Another way to limit transpiration is to cut about half off of each leaflet. You will still have the same number of leaves on the stem, but the surface area has decreased. This also helps control fungus by preventing the leaves from contacting the dome or the medium.

The proper lighting is also important. Direct sunlight will heat the air in the dome too much, but they're not going to root in the dark either. Fluorescents are ideal for this. An HID is OK if it’s not too close, or you could even give them a bit of indirect sun from a window if you can keep them warm.

You’ve kept an eye on the pH and the nutes, and you see it’s starting to grow again, so its safe to assume that it has roots and you can remove the humidity dome. Occasionally a cutting may wilt a little at first, but give it a mist and it should perk up. If none of these tips help, either consider tissue culture or finding a different mother.
 

abudsmoker

Well-Known Member
some of tese cuttings will require 30-40 to start developement.

with bb from serious seeds i found starve the plant severly before you clone.
the cutting that are severly starved will look rough but root in half the time.

i promote powerclone for serious tough cuttings. i have had only a 10 percent sucess ratio with powder on this strain
 

gangabus

Active Member
hey man i am clonin them right now extra high humidity is what u need fill the bottom of ur propagation tray with water and the correct ratio of olivias rooting solution. let me know if u have more questions
 

greentoker

Active Member
thanks for the info my bb seeds were in mail today, so cool, any one done work with mouintian jam. got them monday............ new to growing...........
 
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