curious old fart
Well-Known Member
Happy Birthday to the Doobster!
cof
cof
Club 600
- Thread starter DST
- Start date
HydroGp
Well-Known Member
No doubt putting em in the ground makes a humongous difference
Ive had to cut away a good to meters of the ones i put in my friends greenhouse and the ones in pots never got much bigger than yours. About 2 weeks into flower now. I reaaaly hope they make it through this high humidity time of year :/ Some must! 
Edit: Did not read thru. HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!! Wohho yet another reason to light up
whodatnation
Well-Known Member
Happy birfday doobster!
Like jig said, great to have you around, thanks for all the laughs over the years.
Like jig said, great to have you around, thanks for all the laughs over the years.
SomeGuy
Well-Known Member
anybody in socal interested in buying my badass grow cabinet? I am upgrading my space.
got a 3x3 and a 4x4 tent along with my 2x4 currently. will not be using my cabinet after this round is done. If it is not wanted the gear will get striped and go into the 3x3 for a vertical 600w hps grow.
the 4x4 is for the 500w of led bars I have in the 2x4 currently.
Veg will be in the 2x4 after this cycle finishes.
I am upgrading my space.got a 3x3 and a 4x4 tent along with my 2x4 currently. will not be using my cabinet after this round is done. If it is not wanted the gear will get striped and go into the 3x3 for a vertical 600w hps grow.
the 4x4 is for the 500w of led bars I have in the 2x4 currently.
Veg will be in the 2x4 after this cycle finishes.
whodatnation
Well-Known Member
If those were my options I'd go with the xxl,,, just make sure you have room for ducting.
SomeGuy
Well-Known Member
I plan on running my cool tube vertical in a 3x3 tent. with shelfs setup for levels. This might make more use of the space.
jigfresh
Well-Known Member
You want to think about ducting. If the hood is almost the size of the tent, then your ducting is going to have to be bent pretty hard.
Beauty in a cooltube is all that shit is out of the way.
EDIT: whodat beat me.
jigfresh
Well-Known Member
Speaking of gear... anyone is socal want a 1000w mag ballast? And a couple of old 1000w bulbs. Or a gallon of black strap molasses. Or a whole bunch of soil additives... or a whole mess of net pots... or some 5 gallon buckets all drilled and ready with net pots.
I'll ship stuff too if you pay for the shipping.
I'll ship stuff too if you pay for the shipping.
Mohican
Well-Known Member
Here is a reprint of my washing machine modifications:
OK - Novel time!
The washing machine arrived on Monday. It was in a box wrapped in a box. The inner box had a picture and name and was very professional looking. It was a little beat up so I figured they had to open it to get the 220 workbag out of the box (I ordered it without per Frenchys advice). Packed in the outside box was also my new 70 micron all mesh Frenchy style bag ooh lala
I removed the washing machine from the box, and I noticed that the bottom of the machine looked a little dirty. Figured it was from the box and from sitting in the warehouse. I opened the machine and took out the manual and the filler hose. At this point I noticed a couple dark scratches on the agitator. Not what I expected from a new product (or is it?).
Filled up the machine half way with water and added a dash of Clorox bleach. I turned the timer to 15 minutes and away she went. A couple minutes in it started to smell like new machine getting hot. I threw the new mesh bag in the machine to wash it too.
Everything seemed to work fine and it stopped running when the timer reached the end. I drained the machine and dried the mesh bag.
Now I was ready to add a bigger better hose to the drain exit on the machine. I unplugged the power cord from the wall and turned the machine on its side. I examined the base for screws. During this examination I discovered more of the black dust/powder residue and some of the molded plastic air vents were not completely cleared of the molded plastic.
I got my trusty Stanley utility knife and cut away the errant plastic.
to be continued...
Cheers,
Mo
OK - Novel time!
The washing machine arrived on Monday. It was in a box wrapped in a box. The inner box had a picture and name and was very professional looking. It was a little beat up so I figured they had to open it to get the 220 workbag out of the box (I ordered it without per Frenchys advice). Packed in the outside box was also my new 70 micron all mesh Frenchy style bag ooh lala
I removed the washing machine from the box, and I noticed that the bottom of the machine looked a little dirty. Figured it was from the box and from sitting in the warehouse. I opened the machine and took out the manual and the filler hose. At this point I noticed a couple dark scratches on the agitator. Not what I expected from a new product (or is it?).
Filled up the machine half way with water and added a dash of Clorox bleach. I turned the timer to 15 minutes and away she went. A couple minutes in it started to smell like new machine getting hot. I threw the new mesh bag in the machine to wash it too.
Everything seemed to work fine and it stopped running when the timer reached the end. I drained the machine and dried the mesh bag.
Now I was ready to add a bigger better hose to the drain exit on the machine. I unplugged the power cord from the wall and turned the machine on its side. I examined the base for screws. During this examination I discovered more of the black dust/powder residue and some of the molded plastic air vents were not completely cleared of the molded plastic.
I got my trusty Stanley utility knife and cut away the errant plastic.
to be continued...
Cheers,
Mo
Mohican
Well-Known Member
Mashing machine mod Part 2:
I now noticed that the feet on the base had scratches and embedded dirt. Hmmmm.
Removed the four screws holding the base on and easily removed the tub from the base.
The wires have plenty of slack to make this a fairly easy task. The belt running from the tub agitator pulley to the motor pulley was a surprise but easy enough to handle.
The motor was still very hot. It had been at least 15 minutes since I ran the machine. I took out my laser thermometer to take a reading. It was 106.7 degrees Fahrenheit!
This seems a bit high and is definitely something I will keep an eye on in the future. Must be where the hot smell was coming from!
I carefully sliced just through the side of the drain hose and peeled it away from the drain port. There was some glue residue, which was also easily removed. At this point I went to the local hardware store and tried to find the right materials for the modification. They didnt have any barbed plastic elbows! They had tees, and they had elbows that were barbed on one end. They just didnt have what I needed. I came up with a plan when I found out that the ½ inch copper male threads would tightly screw inside the plastic tubing. I love sweating copper pipe so I decided to fabricate the drain hose from copper plumbing pieces. Cool so now I had all of my materials and I could work on the drain pipe mod.
When I got home I stretched the plastic tubing so it could be pushed over the drain port. It was not easy but it finally slipped on and seemed to fit nicely. A threaded drain port would be so much nicer hint hint J
I decided to use some high-end silicone I had purchased for another project to glue the hose to the drain port. Boy was that a mistake! Silicone is slippery. I pushed the hose on and just as quickly it popped itself right back off! But I was smarter than the plastic tubing. I pulled out a special clamp and pushed the hose in place. Now I could just wait overnight and the silicone would dry and the tube would be secure.
The next day I took off the clamp and the hose stayed in place yay! I started working on the next part of the drain hose the copper tubing. I soldered a ½ inch male threaded adapter to a short piece of ¾ inch copper pipe and a ¾ inch copper elbow. When the copper elbow section had cooled enough to handle I washed it and prepared it for assembly with the plastic tubing.
I made several measurements and then cut away some extra plastic tubing until it was the proper length. Next I made a dry fitting test of the copper elbow and the plastic tubing.
It was going great until I reached the end of the threads and the collar of the copper hit the plastic tubing. The plastic tubing spun and popped right off of the drain port just like it did when the silicone was wet! Fuuuuuudge (not what I really said)!
OK plan B. Plastic model cement. I will huff it until I come up with a plan JK. I cleaned the drain port and the plastic tubing thoroughly with acetone and removed any silicone residue. Then I liberally applied the plastic cement to the hose and slipped it on the drain port, attached the clamp, and proceeded to wait. I gave it a good two hours of cure time and removed the clamp. The tubing was firmly adhered to the port!
Next I screwed on the copper elbow and the plastic tubing held firm
I reassembled the machine just to see how the elbow lined up with the drain tube hole in the side of the base. It was within tolerances but it was a little high no you are no you are shut up! Where was I? Oh yeah put the lid back on the tube of glue. I decided to make some changes so that the copper elbow would rest on the bottom of the base. This should add extra support to the drain tube and keep the plastic tube nicely stuck to the drain port.
Everything fit so now I could finish assembling the copper drain assembly. After several design revisions I decided to keep it simple and give myself the most options. By having the tube come out of the side of the base with another male threaded adapter I can hook up plastic tubing and just bend it up and down like the original design, or I can go all Cadillac and add a nice ball valve, or I can go Frenchy and just add an elbow and a cap.
Now it is time for me to glue the copper drain pipe assembly to the plastic tubing. I decided to go with the plastic cement again because it just smells so good .safety break .puff, puff, pass
Got everything ready and then tried to glue the wrong end to the plastic tubing! Take two. Cleaned away the glue residue and started over with the correct end of the pipe. Went together perfectly and the plastic tube didnt budge one little bit.
Time to reassemble the base! The belt is a little difficult to get back on the motor pulley from this angle but luckily they created a removable panel on the base that makes it easy to access the belt. So I put the base on, being careful to align the pipe with the drain pipe opening. Everything is going smoothly never a good sign. I remove the belt access panel and run the belt on to the motor pulley. This is when I notice something odd. The belt wasn't straight.
The tub pulley is higher than the motor pulley. Ugh! I need to take it apart again and adjust one of the pulleys. The tub pulley is not adjustable so that leaves the motor pulley. I loosen the set screw and adjust the pulley easily and reassemble the tub and base. I plug in the machine and turn it on to test everything. It runs but there is a terrible scraping noise. I cant tell what is causing it so I unplug the machine and take it apart again.
The motor pulley has a larger perforated disk on the bottom to act as a fan. This larger disk is rubbing against the tub pulley.
I can fix this by lowering the motor pulley enough that they dont touch. I go through the whole pulley adjustment procedure again and lower it until it barely clears. Start up the machine and it is still hitting the pulleys wobble a little and hit when they both wobble together. Adjust the pulleys again and this time it is perfect. The belt is still not straight but it is much better than it was originally.
I screwed the belt panel and base back on and the modification and tune-up is finished!
Now I just need to finish trimming the last of the Mulanje and I can make some beach sand!
Cheers,
Mo
I now noticed that the feet on the base had scratches and embedded dirt. Hmmmm.
Removed the four screws holding the base on and easily removed the tub from the base.
The wires have plenty of slack to make this a fairly easy task. The belt running from the tub agitator pulley to the motor pulley was a surprise but easy enough to handle.
The motor was still very hot. It had been at least 15 minutes since I ran the machine. I took out my laser thermometer to take a reading. It was 106.7 degrees Fahrenheit!
This seems a bit high and is definitely something I will keep an eye on in the future. Must be where the hot smell was coming from!
I carefully sliced just through the side of the drain hose and peeled it away from the drain port. There was some glue residue, which was also easily removed. At this point I went to the local hardware store and tried to find the right materials for the modification. They didnt have any barbed plastic elbows! They had tees, and they had elbows that were barbed on one end. They just didnt have what I needed. I came up with a plan when I found out that the ½ inch copper male threads would tightly screw inside the plastic tubing. I love sweating copper pipe so I decided to fabricate the drain hose from copper plumbing pieces. Cool so now I had all of my materials and I could work on the drain pipe mod.
When I got home I stretched the plastic tubing so it could be pushed over the drain port. It was not easy but it finally slipped on and seemed to fit nicely. A threaded drain port would be so much nicer hint hint J
I decided to use some high-end silicone I had purchased for another project to glue the hose to the drain port. Boy was that a mistake! Silicone is slippery. I pushed the hose on and just as quickly it popped itself right back off! But I was smarter than the plastic tubing. I pulled out a special clamp and pushed the hose in place. Now I could just wait overnight and the silicone would dry and the tube would be secure.
The next day I took off the clamp and the hose stayed in place yay! I started working on the next part of the drain hose the copper tubing. I soldered a ½ inch male threaded adapter to a short piece of ¾ inch copper pipe and a ¾ inch copper elbow. When the copper elbow section had cooled enough to handle I washed it and prepared it for assembly with the plastic tubing.
I made several measurements and then cut away some extra plastic tubing until it was the proper length. Next I made a dry fitting test of the copper elbow and the plastic tubing.
It was going great until I reached the end of the threads and the collar of the copper hit the plastic tubing. The plastic tubing spun and popped right off of the drain port just like it did when the silicone was wet! Fuuuuuudge (not what I really said)!
OK plan B. Plastic model cement. I will huff it until I come up with a plan JK. I cleaned the drain port and the plastic tubing thoroughly with acetone and removed any silicone residue. Then I liberally applied the plastic cement to the hose and slipped it on the drain port, attached the clamp, and proceeded to wait. I gave it a good two hours of cure time and removed the clamp. The tubing was firmly adhered to the port!
Next I screwed on the copper elbow and the plastic tubing held firm
I reassembled the machine just to see how the elbow lined up with the drain tube hole in the side of the base. It was within tolerances but it was a little high no you are no you are shut up! Where was I? Oh yeah put the lid back on the tube of glue. I decided to make some changes so that the copper elbow would rest on the bottom of the base. This should add extra support to the drain tube and keep the plastic tube nicely stuck to the drain port.
Everything fit so now I could finish assembling the copper drain assembly. After several design revisions I decided to keep it simple and give myself the most options. By having the tube come out of the side of the base with another male threaded adapter I can hook up plastic tubing and just bend it up and down like the original design, or I can go all Cadillac and add a nice ball valve, or I can go Frenchy and just add an elbow and a cap.
Now it is time for me to glue the copper drain pipe assembly to the plastic tubing. I decided to go with the plastic cement again because it just smells so good .safety break .puff, puff, pass
Got everything ready and then tried to glue the wrong end to the plastic tubing! Take two. Cleaned away the glue residue and started over with the correct end of the pipe. Went together perfectly and the plastic tube didnt budge one little bit.
Time to reassemble the base! The belt is a little difficult to get back on the motor pulley from this angle but luckily they created a removable panel on the base that makes it easy to access the belt. So I put the base on, being careful to align the pipe with the drain pipe opening. Everything is going smoothly never a good sign. I remove the belt access panel and run the belt on to the motor pulley. This is when I notice something odd. The belt wasn't straight.
The tub pulley is higher than the motor pulley. Ugh! I need to take it apart again and adjust one of the pulleys. The tub pulley is not adjustable so that leaves the motor pulley. I loosen the set screw and adjust the pulley easily and reassemble the tub and base. I plug in the machine and turn it on to test everything. It runs but there is a terrible scraping noise. I cant tell what is causing it so I unplug the machine and take it apart again.
The motor pulley has a larger perforated disk on the bottom to act as a fan. This larger disk is rubbing against the tub pulley.
I can fix this by lowering the motor pulley enough that they dont touch. I go through the whole pulley adjustment procedure again and lower it until it barely clears. Start up the machine and it is still hitting the pulleys wobble a little and hit when they both wobble together. Adjust the pulleys again and this time it is perfect. The belt is still not straight but it is much better than it was originally.
I screwed the belt panel and base back on and the modification and tune-up is finished!
Now I just need to finish trimming the last of the Mulanje and I can make some beach sand!
Cheers,
Mo
Mohican
Well-Known Member
First run of material through the modded washing machine:
Holy Smoke Mulanje Gold! It is sooo sticky!
Washing:
Draining:
First Run 73 micron:
Second Run 73 Micron:
No pics of the third run.
120 Micron from all three runs:
Microscopic pic of the residue in the wash bucket:
This stuff isn't sticky and has a slight hash smell.
That is all the pictures for now. Hash is broken up and drying. I will jar it up tonight and have it at the cup
Cheers,
Mo
Holy Smoke Mulanje Gold! It is sooo sticky!
Washing:
Draining:
First Run 73 micron:
Second Run 73 Micron:
No pics of the third run.
120 Micron from all three runs:
Microscopic pic of the residue in the wash bucket:
This stuff isn't sticky and has a slight hash smell.
That is all the pictures for now. Hash is broken up and drying. I will jar it up tonight and have it at the cup
Cheers,
Mo
DoobieBrother
Well-Known Member
Awesome, Mo, and thanks for taking the time to share it like that!
*And thanks for the b-day wishes everyone!
Had a good time, but some idiot (me) left the car's headlights on and we came out to a car with a dead battery, and a wife that had an appointment with the eye doctor .
Thankfully, AAA only took 10 minutes to show up and get us started and on the road, so she made her appointment.
Recorded a bit of the the beginning of the movie and will upload it later tonight.
Time to smoke some Sour Diesel from an outdoor plant.
.
*And thanks for the b-day wishes everyone!
Had a good time, but some idiot (me) left the car's headlights on and we came out to a car with a dead battery, and a wife that had an appointment with the eye doctor .
Thankfully, AAA only took 10 minutes to show up and get us started and on the road, so she made her appointment.
Recorded a bit of the the beginning of the movie and will upload it later tonight.
Time to smoke some Sour Diesel from an outdoor plant.
.