Continuous problem every run

Nutty sKunK

Well-Known Member
Thanks to everyone for their inputs, plants have now stopped yellowing all together and have resumed normal growth. As mentioned before I stopped ph'ing water and upped nutes, raised pots and light.
Good job man! Let them buds start coming :)

Wee tip. Don’t use straight bloom feed for too long. Excess P causes early senescence. Mixing grow and bloom 50-50 is a happy medium I’ve found.

good luck :)
 

DarkLordMelkor

Well-Known Member
Autos are very interesting but very easy. İt was same with me.

1. Always use half strenght of nutes. If you see deficiency you can give more but if you let them have toxicity its big issue.

2. Always keep your pots higher than trays. Dont let pots have contact with run off.

3. Have good air circulation for molds.

Thats it. Very simple and easy.
 

Greenthumbgrower1986

Well-Known Member
Autos are very interesting but very easy. İt was same with me.

1. Always use half strenght of nutes. If you see deficiency you can give more but if you let them have toxicity its big issue.

2. Always keep your pots higher than trays. Dont let pots have contact with run off.

3. Have good air circulation for molds.

Thats it. Very simple and easy.
Yeah started with half strength, pots not raised and was pH ING my water. They seem to currently enjoy 1.5ml grow and 1.5ml bloom
 

stnr420

Well-Known Member
Currently at 2ml per litre, I kind of need to pH my water, it comes out the tap at a staggering 8.2ph I know soil is a natural buffer but I wouldn't imagine it would buffer it from 8.2 to 6.2/6.5 range
Tap water calcium solids are forming during dryback...causing a rise in ph.....also week 1-3 the plants nutrient requirements rise substantially causing deficiency.....i recently switched to coco and it has been life changing....such a great medium and soo easy to control feed an ph.......coco and jacks 321 resulted in the fastest and healthiest plants of my 28 year career...ill never go back
 

Greenthumbgrower1986

Well-Known Member
Tap water calcium solids are forming during dryback...causing a rise in ph.....also week 1-3 the plants nutrient requirements rise substantially causing deficiency.....i recently switched to coco and it has been life changing....such a great medium and soo easy to control feed an ph.......coco and jacks 321 resulted in the fastest and healthiest plants of my 28 year career...ill never go back
I was thinking to give Coco a go, would I still need to add cal-mag?
 

stnr420

Well-Known Member
Can't seem to find jack's over here in uk
I bet you can find a similar alternative to jacks on amazon maybe? Ebay i think may have jacks sample packs in uk....i used envy nutrients dry salts which was the exact formulation as jacks....the hydro 5-12-26 is all you need....there is no doubt you can find calcium nitrate and epsom salts there to go with it.
 

YoZeitgeist

Well-Known Member
Thanks to everyone for their inputs, plants have now stopped yellowing all together and have resumed normal growth. As mentioned before I stopped ph'ing water and upped nutes, raised pots and light.
Congrats my friend on bringing your babies back up to optimal thriving, how are they now?

My big three babies are bulking in bud mass and entering week 6 of flowering. My baby on the floor is entering week 6 in age and that'll be starting week 2 pre flowering.

Big three Left to Right
Critical + 2.0
Critical Orange Punch
Northern Lights
Baby at bottom is Northern Lights in a 3 gallon pot topped 4 times and hasn't been LST'd yet.

All three on 7 gallon air pots, plant in middle light fell on her and chopped her in half at week 3, all the others were topped and LST.

Hope your babies are flourishing and gift your effort with a bunch of bubs.
 

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Greenthumbgrower1986

Well-Known Member
Congrats my friend on bringing your babies back up to optimal thriving, how are they now?

My big three babies are bulking in bud mass and entering week 6 of flowering. My baby on the floor is entering week 6 in age and that'll be starting week 2 pre flowering.

Big three Left to Right
Critical + 2.0
Critical Orange Punch
Northern Lights
Baby at bottom is Northern Lights in a 3 gallon pot topped 4 times and hasn't been LST'd yet.

All three on 7 gallon air pots, plant in middle light fell on her and chopped her in half at week 3, all the others were topped and LST.

Hope your babies are flourishing and gift your effort with a bunch of bubs.
Nah, their all fucked now. I think for me it was more a case of poor watering techniques and poor water quality, calcium build up. I think this all messed up my soil pH causing many lockouts. Plants look like death and still have around 5 weeks to go.
 

YoZeitgeist

Well-Known Member
Nah, their all fucked now. I think for me it was more a case of poor watering techniques and poor water quality, calcium build up. I think this all messed up my soil pH causing many lockouts. Plants look like death and still have around 5 weeks to go.
So sorry to hear that, if your ph is high it helps to bring that down with phosphoric or citric acid. My tap water in NYC is 6.8 out the faucet and I use a filter then let the water sit open for 48-72 hours ahead of my watering.

Then I use a ppm meter to dial in my nutes based on stage and signs of the leaves/plants individually. It might be very tedious and slow to do but create a foliar solution with what your plant needs, in a 1 liter bottle I'd make it concentrated. Same dosage for one gallon but in one liter spray bottle and hit the very bottom leaves in the lower canopy.

pH the solution to 5.8-6.0 pick up leaves spraying underneath and the stems and branches and she'll absorb the nutrients that way and hopefully give your buds some juice to grow. It's the most last resort thing you can do but any yield is better then none at this point.
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
Nah, their all fucked now. I think for me it was more a case of poor watering techniques and poor water quality, calcium build up. I think this all messed up my soil pH causing many lockouts. Plants look like death and still have around 5 weeks to go.
Post a pic of how they look now. They may still be salvageable, depending on how they are.
 

deejay123

Well-Known Member
I’ll mention this, only because I see your white crusty drip trays. Be careful with drip trays and using nutrient solutions. It’s taken me a long time to understand things like proper watering, watering to runoff, and letting waste drain away instead of letting the plant sit in the trays. When the plants sit in the trays instead of allowing runoff to carry away the extra nutrients, what isnt being used concentrates in the soil as the water evaporates. You can easily develop lockouts this way, even if you’re not really overfeeding. Put your plant on a screen or wire mesh, above the tray, to let water drain away when you water. Then discard this water. The crusty residue in your trays is likely a buildup of those salts, and a sign of this possible issue.
This… I would give the trays a good cleaning with dish soap and a good rinsing before checking the ec run off again as it that build up will most likely contribute to a higher reading
 

calvin.m16

Well-Known Member
Autos are very interesting but very easy. İt was same with me.

1. Always use half strenght of nutes. If you see deficiency you can give more but if you let them have toxicity its big issue.

2. Always keep your pots higher than trays. Dont let pots have contact with run off.

3. Have good air circulation for molds.

Thats it. Very simple and easy.
Autos are very limited and highly variable.

1. My plants would be deficient optimized grows need more than half strength and the manufacturer of the fertilizer dictates the strength overall and how much you can/can't use. The use half rule doesn't apply for everyone or everything.
2. I let plants sit right on the concrete on plastic trays, they drink the little runoff that comes out every time I water. Yields and quality have never been better in Promix HPCC or coco/perlite. My heavy runoff plants are actually performing less than the plants that sit right in the run off. :confused:
3. The only thing that isn't Bro Science. Air circulation is key.
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
Autos are very limited and highly variable.

1. My plants would be deficient optimized grows need more than half strength and the manufacturer of the fertilizer dictates the strength overall and how much you can/can't use. The use half rule doesn't apply for everyone or everything.
2. I let plants sit right on the concrete on plastic trays, they drink the little runoff that comes out every time I water. Yields and quality have never been better in Promix HPCC or coco/perlite. My heavy runoff plants are actually performing less than the plants that sit right in the run off. :confused:
3. The only thing that isn't Bro Science. Air circulation is key.
How do you account for nutrient imbalance?
 

calvin.m16

Well-Known Member
How do you account for nutrient imbalance?
I don't know, I use Maxibloom @ 7g/gal Armor Si 5ml/gal ~1.6 EC ~6.0 pH starting with RO water and let it rip. The plants that don't get runoff look fine, definitely more fed but not burnt or damaged. Keep in mind these rows have different strains growing. Note the 2 plants in the middle light on the no-runoff side is the same as the plants with runoff.
Runoff:
1678845614931.jpeg
No Runoff
IMG_9321.jpegIMG_9317.jpeg

These plants are in week 8 so turning quite purple on leaves and buds.
IMG_9322.jpeg
 
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Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
I don't know, I use Maxibloom @ 7g/gal Armor Si 5ml/gal and let it rip. The plants that don't get runoff look fine, definitely more fed but not burnt or damaged. Keep in mind these rows have different strains growing. Note the 2 plants in the middle light on the no-runoff side is the same as the plants with runoff.
Runoff:
View attachment 5270844
No Runoff
View attachment 5270838
These plants are in week 8 so turning quite purple on leaves and buds.
View attachment 5270840
I'll give it to ya, they look pretty good. If I don't get good run off, I get lock out.
 
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