Could it be burn from water droplets?

*BUDS said:

Looks like a ph issue or rootbound.

Click to expand...

OP: What is your PH? I ask because you are calling Sunshine mix #3 "soil" when it's not. Adjust ph to 5.6 - 6.0 if you aren't already because you are growing in a soilless mixture. Works for me anyways in pro-mix

My moms get yellow leaves because I'm soiless and I sometimes don't water them enough. Some sort of root damage has occured but not enough to mess your crop. I blast my budders straight outta the res with no bad side effects. Of course I use clean water also to keep them clean. I sometimes spray fresh water on the plants (cloned budders) until the res is topped up with nothing but good side effects. I bud the clones in a mixture of hydroton and lave rock, rooted in rockwool. I start my mix at 5.5ph.

Personally i wont use my soil less mix again until im more experienced, if you look at the difference between my 2 grows you can tell that the cheap organic potting soil has made a huge difference for me lol.

I just wanted to say thanks for all the useful tips and info everyone took the time to share with me. I decided in the end and after much digging it is likely a PH problem. I was mistake in assuming the mixture I was using contained soil, when in fact, it doesn't. As well, I determined the foliate feeding may have contributed too the problem because I did it incorrectly but was never the root cause of the problem. I began foliate feeding to address the yellowing and rust coloured spots appearing on my leaves. Additionally, my leaves were curling and browning at the base of the plant where where I'm sure no Epson salt mist reached as I only applied it to very few leaves toward the top of the plants.
I found this old post and I believe it explains why with both my grows I ran into the exact same trouble at the same stage of growth. I'd appreciate any feed back on this explanation and weather you agree or not, thanks once again.




Dr. VonDankenstine's DIRTBAGGERS PH info
This is for all you DIRTBAGGERS out there(coco/peat/soil-less medium/perlite/hummus/vermiculite/work castings/charcoal/gravel/rock/bark/soil/ or any-other medium you may use in the place of soil or dirt) This recommendation does not include hydro applications---(rock-wool/hydro ton/fytocell/DWC/hydro/aero mist/ or any other hydroponic system PH which should be maintained at 5.5 to 5.8PH.


In the germination/seedling/ and vegetative phase of growth MJ will do very well at a PH range of 5.5 to 6.5. You also hear of coco users maintaining their PH at about 6 but the fact is that even coco will do well for the first 3 phases of growth at the same PH. Although potting mixes have less problems with nutrient PH lockout than outdoor soil, for maximum flower development/weight/size/ and vigor your PH should be above 6 and at or below 6.5 in the flowering stage. The reason for this is that the most important nutrient P(phosphorus) in flowering is easily absorbed and assimilated by the plants in the 6 to 6.5 range(its actually higher than 6.5 but we start to run into micro nutrient availability above 6.55). Your plants will do fine from 5.5 to 6.5 but for the best bud development in flowering it needs to be above 6 and below 6.5. Hope the info helps.

Hi....ok no more spraying anything. It looks like a pretty bad Calcium lockout caused by an overdose of mag which in turn fucks with nitrogen hence yellowing. If you arent sure you might just go down the line. Get the dead or dying leaves out of there, raise the light, flush out the root zone WELL, with P.H.ed h20 @1/4 normal strength top off at 1/2 normal ppm. Cool temps and less light will slow down the burning slightly. Over the next feedings increase ppms until back to normal. Find calcium and nitrogen and hold off on magnesium for a bit. In a 4-5 days they should perk up. Leave them alone to recover and so progress is evident from this treatment and not something else. It might seem like overkill but time is a factor. Good luck.