Cutter Electronics: Complete DIY COB kits

BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
Thanks for your input. My thought is the goal should be to have a uniform PPFD reading over a footprint (most common is 4 x 4) at a reasonable height (say, e.g., 24 inches). Has anyone done such a test?
yes there is a thread on here with actual measurements of cobs with various lenses and reflectors, youd have to search
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
Hello :) I'm growmau5. I contacted Mark over at www.cutter.com.au a few weeks ago to ask if he could package together some high quality components and offer us a 1-click solution to ordering the parts necessary to assembly the single most popular configuration for most growers here: Four of Cree's flagship 3590s @ 1400ma.

As a paid supporter and sponsor of RIU, Mark was happy to help us out. He mentioned that he had been thinking about doing this for some time and that he would fast track the only missing component from his site: the Heatsinks.

A lot of us have been using extruded bar heatsinks with great success for sometime now. And I am sure many of you will continue to enjoy the process of measuring, marking, drilling and tapping these type of heatsinks for your custom COB setup.

View attachment 3630067
In my estimation, the heatsink machining and preparation process is the most intimidating part of a DIY COB build for most beginners, accounting for 60-70% of the time it takes to complete a build. To streamline and make this process easier for all of us, the guys at Cutter really went out above and beyond to source a Passive Anodized Pin heatsink for us :with a thermal resistance of 1.07 C/w. The increased heat emissivity of this design allows for smaller, lighter, more efficient thermal management at a comparable price.

OH, and did I mention they come pre-drilled and tapped for popular COB models including the Cree CXB3590!

If you are interested in learning more about this kit, follow this link directly to the kit page: http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut2900

Here is what is included:
4 pcs Cree CXB3590, top bins only
4 pcs Ideal 50-2303CR CXB Holder
4 pcs Ideal 50-2300AN Adapter for the Ledil ANGELINA
4 pcs Ledil Angelina 90 Degree reflector
4 pcs Graphite Thermal pad(TIM) 1 side adhesive for simple assembly on the COB

1 pc LGSU-1400D, Dimmable driver allows the COBS to be run at just under 50 watts, the sweet spot of wall plate efficiency

1 pc 0-10V dimmer compatiable with the LGSU Driver

4 Passive Pin fin Coolers suitable for the 50 watt drive( based on eff% calculations), predrilled and tapped for the Ideal Holder and adapter( you will only need a screw driver not a drill press)

16 pcs M3 6mm screws for the Holders

16 pcs M3.5 12mm Screws for mounting to side rails



The kit is called the MAU5 : IV so that it is easy to find & so that newer hobbiests know they are ordering the same components I showcase on my YouTube Channel. I will also be offering installation support and instructional videos on wiring, assembly, & configurations.

Additionally, these heatsinks and Cutter Kits will be the foundation of a new series of videos that I am producing called: the
Community OpenSource DIY LED grow light

the goals of the series are :
-to cooperatively design and build a completely modular, adjustable, infinitely configurable system with standard components .
-affordability, global accessibility, high performance
-applicable to anyone from the closet grower to the warehouse grower.
-ease of assembly and use.
To complete the project I will be creating all of my files in a collaborative affordable software called: Autodesk Fusion 360 (free 30 day trial, $40/mo license). Publishing will go directly to my profile over at GRAB CAD, a free website were anyone can download files and send them to a local shop for fabrication.

I will also be assisting our community by reaching out to fabricators that will cut out parts and ship anywhere in the world. Places like Big Blue Saw can take one of these files , produce the part and ship to your doorstep for less than you might think. (more on that later).

In the meantime, I will be designing and fabricating prototypes that will hold the heatsink, allow for modularity, and allow flexibility for mounting other components like reds and UVs.

One note to USA buyers, the bold typeface prices on Cutter.com are in Australian dollars, US dollar conversions are listed below that.
The RIU discount code: CUTANDROLL will work for this kit!!!
Pre-orders are going on now (mid-march) for April 2016 availability.

Cheers
View attachment 3630098
View attachment 3630099
GM,
Looking at your bracket. Perhaps make it thinner, just two tabs at a 45% angle to each other and it is convertible. Small light tabs to bolt to a rail or slide into your rail. Think light weight aluminum angles with pre-drilled holes for crating a frame assembly. Perhaps make another mount for rectangular HS, as well. make it flexible for either psasive, active, or Heatsinks USA style. I like the start. I used Autocadd for years. I switched to Progecad years ago, Linux development team.. A lot cheaper and as functional as Autocadd. I am a designer using it for many years now. Heatsinks are kinda of expensive, and a cheaper options would be nice. $120 for a heat sink is more than the cost of tweo CXA2 Cobs. need to rethink the heat sink I think. Find cheaper moe affordable solution. Nice start. lov the live video's and the project, open source, like Linux. Too kewl. peace.
 

Growmau5

Well-Known Member
not snarky brah, realize your a lot farther ahead of us. looking forward to the open source designs q for you:
is there a way to estimate Tc at a given wattage for those to get a feel for current droop
Its all good brother. there are a lot of RIU members working behind the scenes on various projects. Often there is a several month delay on publishing ideas and offerings while nailing down suppliers , CAD drawings, and pricing.

Guess work is not necessary when you use a FLIR camera to look at Tc. Cutter has some images of a 50w cxb running on these in a stagnant test environment. We just need to see how much lower the Tc is in a real world grow room with circulation fans assisting these pins.

I agree with @Rahz reflectors are cheap now. $4 for LEDILS , $1 for knockoffs. Buy them, measure the output for your application, then use them or dont. but at least you have the option and they are super easy to remove and clean.

What is that sq piece of metal with what looks like fan guards on it? Your last pic on this first post, bottom right corner of photo.
That is LEDILS CAD drawing of the Angelina reflector from their website.

Thanks for your input. My thought is the goal should be to have a uniform PPFD reading over a footprint (most common is 4 x 4) at a reasonable height (say, e.g., 24 inches). Has anyone done such a test? You should be able to come up with some estimates of the lux given COB placement and Cree's datasheets. Then converting to PPFD will take some guesswork as to the multiplier to use, but uniformity is the most important thing. I feel about 800-1000 PPFD would be right in the sweet spot regarding efficiency and yield...
what are my thoughts about uniform spread and PPFD in a 4x4? have you seen my thread or youtube channel, I have just about the most uniform spread around, lol. 850ppfd , 1.7-1.9 gpw runs.
DSC_0010.jpg

More on this point. If you take a look at the par tests from Growershouse's blog almost every single LED fixture (cob or otherwise) suffers from covering a 2 x 2 far too well (the PPFD readings often go beyond what plants will even use) and then it falls off a cliff for the other 12 square feet outside of the center. I think this is probably why initially people complained so much about LEDs. HPS
a lot of those growerhouse tests cover tiny Garbage led lights with a tiny fixture footprint. thats why we build our own, fo dat spread baby.

@flat9 I appreciate your careful planning and scientific look at PPFD and light spread. But once a grower gets out from behind the calculator and the computer. You quickly realize all you need to do is buy some COBs, slap them on a heatsink and you can grow the dank pretty easily. I dont even own a PAR meter.

Cheap 80/20 aluminum extrusions and parts. Ebay or www.8020.net

or clearance on 30mm x 30mm rails at Figirelli

Check out Netherflys build for a good spread Flat9

https://www.rollitup.org/t/12xcxb3590-passively-cooled.898631/
already linked in post #5 but thanks.
 

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
Hello :) I'm growmau5. I contacted Mark over at www.cutter.com.au a few weeks ago to ask if he could package together some high quality components and offer us a 1-click solution to ordering the parts necessary to assembly the single most popular configuration for most growers here: Four of Cree's flagship 3590s @ 1400ma.

As a paid supporter and sponsor of RIU, Mark was happy to help us out. He mentioned that he had been thinking about doing this for some time and that he would fast track the only missing component from his site: the Heatsinks.

A lot of us have been using extruded bar heatsinks with great success for sometime now. And I am sure many of you will continue to enjoy the process of measuring, marking, drilling and tapping these type of heatsinks for your custom COB setup.

View attachment 3630067
In my estimation, the heatsink machining and preparation process is the most intimidating part of a DIY COB build for most beginners, accounting for 60-70% of the time it takes to complete a build. To streamline and make this process easier for all of us, the guys at Cutter really went out above and beyond to source a Passive Anodized Pin heatsink for us :with a thermal resistance of 1.07 C/w. The increased heat emissivity of this design allows for smaller, lighter, more efficient thermal management at a comparable price.

OH, and did I mention they come pre-drilled and tapped for popular COB models including the Cree CXB3590!

If you are interested in learning more about this kit, follow this link directly to the kit page: http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut2900

Here is what is included:
4 pcs Cree CXB3590, top bins only
4 pcs Ideal 50-2303CR CXB Holder
4 pcs Ideal 50-2300AN Adapter for the Ledil ANGELINA
4 pcs Ledil Angelina 90 Degree reflector
4 pcs Graphite Thermal pad(TIM) 1 side adhesive for simple assembly on the COB

1 pc LGSU-1400D, Dimmable driver allows the COBS to be run at just under 50 watts, the sweet spot of wall plate efficiency

1 pc 0-10V dimmer compatiable with the LGSU Driver

4 Passive Pin fin Coolers suitable for the 50 watt drive( based on eff% calculations), predrilled and tapped for the Ideal Holder and adapter( you will only need a screw driver not a drill press)

16 pcs M3 6mm screws for the Holders

16 pcs M3.5 12mm Screws for mounting to side rails



The kit is called the MAU5 : IV so that it is easy to find & so that newer hobbiests know they are ordering the same components I showcase on my YouTube Channel. I will also be offering installation support and instructional videos on wiring, assembly, & configurations.

Additionally, these heatsinks and Cutter Kits will be the foundation of a new series of videos that I am producing called: the
Community OpenSource DIY LED grow light

the goals of the series are :
-to cooperatively design and build a completely modular, adjustable, infinitely configurable system with standard components .
-affordability, global accessibility, high performance
-applicable to anyone from the closet grower to the warehouse grower.
-ease of assembly and use.
To complete the project I will be creating all of my files in a collaborative affordable software called: Autodesk Fusion 360 (free 30 day trial, $40/mo license). Publishing will go directly to my profile over at GRAB CAD, a free website were anyone can download files and send them to a local shop for fabrication.

I will also be assisting our community by reaching out to fabricators that will cut out parts and ship anywhere in the world. Places like Big Blue Saw can take one of these files , produce the part and ship to your doorstep for less than you might think. (more on that later).

In the meantime, I will be designing and fabricating prototypes that will hold the heatsink, allow for modularity, and allow flexibility for mounting other components like reds and UVs.

One note to USA buyers, the bold typeface prices on Cutter.com are in Australian dollars, US dollar conversions are listed below that.
The RIU discount code: CUTANDROLL will work for this kit!!!
Pre-orders are going on now (mid-march) for April 2016 availability.

Cheers
View attachment 3630098
View attachment 3630099
:clap:
 

Nu-Be

Well-Known Member
This is very cool, and I've been anxiously waiting to see what you'd come up with. Thanks a bunch for bringing this to market, Mark & growmau5. :)

I've been following the various builds and costs, and keeping my own simple spreadsheets. I've now put together the approximate base costs for a 12-cob CXB3500 CD build, but from three different sources. Each option includes the site's estimated cheapest shipping charges to my location.

Somebody please check my math in each option's pic. The price for PLC + HSUSA is the cost of 12 full cobs + mounting + reflector + diffuser cob covers from PLC after DIY10 discount, plus Heatsink USA heatsinks (9lbs each) . The price for the PLC + NGL is the same thing, just on NGL heatsinks. ***EDIT: I did not know about the discount code at NGL - it's PHOTON10 and I added it to the pricing and updated everything here.*** The price for the Cutter is all Cutter, after CUTANDROLL discount.

It really looks like, if you're comfortable drilling holes (I have a drill press, cutting tools, etc.), the PLC + HSUSA is much cheaper than anything else:

PLC + HSUSA option is $77 cheaper than PLC + NGL option (but a few pounds heavier)
PLC + HSUSA option is $450 cheaper than the Cutter option (but a few pounds heavier)

If you're not comfortable drilling holes, PLC + NGL is really the same thing you'd get from Cutter, but

PLC + NGL option is $376 cheaper than the Cutter option, and you get Meanwell drivers + diffuser cob covers.

I realize there are some parts missing from the lists if you want to build a whole lighting array, or the wiring price estimates are low, but I think that stuff is immaterial, as it's true for each build option. What I've listed is the bare bones list that I think is approximately the same, necessary stuff for each build - COBs, drivers, reflectors/mounting, and heatsinks, basic wiring, screws, thermal paste/pads, and some angle stock to connect the heatsinks together.

What I'm really asking: is this analysis accurate? Am I grossly misrepresenting something here? I'm just trying to figure it out for the best option for me.
 

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sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
@Growmau5 wanted to say thanks for all the videos you made and links you have provided for us.i spent some time last night watching all the vids part 1 thru 7.wanted to know where to get the smaller square heatsinks i see you using with fans where the fan and heatsink are matched up real close in size and if you have a prefered power suply to run say 10 of those fans.
 

Humanrob

Well-Known Member
It's always interesting to see what happens when the market gets what it asked for... There are countless examples of manufacturers bringing to market ideas that lots of people talked about, and then it seems to be hit or miss in regards to actual sales. I hope these take off.

The price point seems on the mark, between sourcing the parts yourself and buying something similar pre-built from one of our community builders. I hope people can see the value in this -- the flexibility in configuration, the ability to upgrade with modular components, and the knowledge gained about how it all works by assembling it yourself. It is a tough call to guess how many people who have already built one would pay a little extra for the kit, but this should pull more people in who are on the fence about doing a DIY light. Just my $.02.

If these were available 7 months ago, my tent would probably be full of them (instead of the butt ugly DIY I built... lol). I'm set for lights now, but if I needed more these would be top of my list. Nice work.
 
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flat9

Active Member
Its all good brother. there are a lot of RIU members working behind the scenes on various projects. Often there is a several month delay on publishing ideas and offerings while nailing down suppliers , CAD drawings, and pricing.

Guess work is not necessary when you use a FLIR camera to look at Tc. Cutter has some images of a 50w cxb running on these in a stagnant test environment. We just need to see how much lower the Tc is in a real world grow room with circulation fans assisting these pins.

I agree with @Rahz reflectors are cheap now. $4 for LEDILS , $1 for knockoffs. Buy them, measure the output for your application, then use them or dont. but at least you have the option and they are super easy to remove and clean.


That is LEDILS CAD drawing of the Angelina reflector from their website.



what are my thoughts about uniform spread and PPFD in a 4x4? have you seen my thread or youtube channel, I have just about the most uniform spread around, lol. 850ppfd , 1.7-1.9 gpw runs.
View attachment 3630557



a lot of those growerhouse tests cover tiny Garbage led lights with a tiny fixture footprint. thats why we build our own, fo dat spread baby.

@flat9 I appreciate your careful planning and scientific look at PPFD and light spread. But once a grower gets out from behind the calculator and the computer. You quickly realize all you need to do is buy some COBs, slap them on a heatsink and you can grow the dank pretty easily. I dont even own a PAR meter.

Cheap 80/20 aluminum extrusions and parts. Ebay or www.8020.net

or clearance on 30mm x 30mm rails at Figirelli



already linked in post #5 but thanks.
Cheers. I like the kit a lot and all the time you've dedicated to this. I really appreciate it. Also Netherfly's build looks absolutely perfect.

Still, I don't think you quite answered my question regarding the use of reflectors/lenses and whether it was hurting more than it was helping. Mind expounding? I really feel with the 115 degree beam angle the COBs are perfect as is....
 

giantsfan24

Well-Known Member
This is very cool, and I've been anxiously waiting to see what you'd come up with. Thanks a bunch for bringing this to market, Mark & growmau5. :)

I've been following the various builds and costs, and keeping my own simple spreadsheets. I've now put together the approximate base costs for a 12-cob CXB3500 CD build, but from three different sources. Each option includes the site's estimated cheapest shipping charges to my location.

Somebody please check my math in each option's pic. The price for PLC + HSUSA is the cost of 12 full cobs + mounting + reflector + diffuser cob covers from PLC after DIY10 discount, plus Heatsink USA heatsinks (9lbs each) . The price for the PLC + NGL is the same thing, just on NGL heatsinks. ***EDIT: I did not know about the discount code at NGL - it's PHOTON10 and I added it to the pricing and updated everything here.*** The price for the Cutter is all Cutter, after CUTANDROLL discount.

It really looks like, if you're comfortable drilling holes (I have a drill press, cutting tools, etc.), the PLC + HSUSA is much cheaper than anything else:

PLC + HSUSA option is $77 cheaper than PLC + NGL option (but a few pounds heavier)
PLC + HSUSA option is $450 cheaper than the Cutter option (but a few pounds heavier)

If you're not comfortable drilling holes, PLC + NGL is really the same thing you'd get from Cutter, but

PLC + NGL option is $376 cheaper than the Cutter option, and you get Meanwell drivers + diffuser cob covers.

I realize there are some parts missing from the lists if you want to build a whole lighting array, or the wiring price estimates are low, but I think that stuff is immaterial, as it's true for each build option. What I've listed is the bare bones list that I think is approximately the same, necessary stuff for each build - COBs, drivers, reflectors/mounting, and heatsinks, basic wiring, screws, thermal paste/pads, and some angle stock to connect the heatsinks together.

What I'm really asking: is this analysis accurate? Am I grossly misrepresenting something here? I'm just trying to figure it out for the best option for me.
I'm sorry... What is "ngl"?
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
What about individual hs on arms from a central pod like spider legs attached to a body, adjustable up and down i individually, as well. Locating driver at center with a cob or two.
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
Cheers. I like the kit a lot and all the time you've dedicated to this. I really appreciate it. Also Netherfly's build looks absolutely perfect.

Still, I don't think you quite answered my question regarding the use of reflectors/lenses and whether it was hurting more than it was helping. Mind expounding? I really feel with the 115 degree beam angle the COBs are perfect as is....
There is a thread SupraSpl did on that subject with tests
 

BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
More on this point. If you take a look at the par tests from Growershouse's blog almost every single LED fixture (cob or otherwise) suffers from covering a 2 x 2 far too well (the PPFD readings often go beyond what plants will even use) and then it falls off a cliff for the other 12 square feet outside of the center. I think this is probably why initially people complained so much about LEDs. HPS in a proper reflector did a better job in distributing the light out over a grid. The "reflectors" that attach to the cob, as well as the lenses, seem to focus light again to a smaller region than what the cob itself naturally emanates (eg, 90 degree reflectors whereas the cob itself has a 115 degree distribution pattern). How do you know the reflector isn't just causing the footprint problems that LEDs commonly suffer from in the first place? Any insight you may provide is appreciated.
the megawatt LED panels that try to mimic the inferior 'point source' that HID growers are used to is the worst. dont get me started on putting lenses on LEDs "to get penetration". uniform coverage is best and this is where COBs will win everytime.

my current best blurple setup is 14 california lightworks solarstorm 220s in a 5x9 @ 24-36" above canopy. theyre 170W at the wall and prob 75-80 par W each, with a nice wide 115 deg or so on the osrams . im real hard pressed to find a place anywhere from the top of the canopy to 18" below it that isnt a uniform 500-900 ppfd. and the results show it, no popcorn anywhere in there. tops arent burnt/stressed
 
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BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
pro
Hmm those are cost effective , I'd even do unfinished @ that price
$300 for a 100 buy a hun & sell to friends what u don't use
problem is the $2-$3 are the smallest in the list. i think netherfly came out to $15-20 each for the sizes he needed (but he didnt buy 100)

id be down for a group buy if we could get them down to $10ish for a 50W cob
 

BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
Cheers. I like the kit a lot and all the time you've dedicated to this. I really appreciate it. Also Netherfly's build looks absolutely perfect.

Still, I don't think you quite answered my question regarding the use of reflectors/lenses and whether it was hurting more than it was helping. Mind expounding? I really feel with the 115 degree beam angle the COBs are perfect as is....
in a tent, sure.

in a room that isnt perfecly reflectorized, maybe get the 90 deg reflectors for the cobs on the edge and let the middle ones fly without any optics
 

kmog33

Well-Known Member
Maybe I missed it but what does the package cost with everything?


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