Designing A New Grow Room, Need Advise On A Linear Light Mover, Please.

i am upping my game. i have decided to go big. i have been getting rave reviews on my harvest and patients are eating up my work. i finally think i have found my calling. it is growing cannabis! i currently have a 4x4 tent, 1000w Digilux bulb and a Magnum XXXL hood. i am building basically the same set up as i currently have, except i am using a 4x8 Sun Hut XXL. i want to use a Linear Light Mover to move the 1000w light over the garden. i want to do this so i do not have to get 2 bulbs. i am assuming that no matter how many fans i get, 2 bulbs will make more heat. i already have heat issues in the summer time and can not be bothered by 2 bulbs and any added heat. i have also heard the light movers cut down on the heat by a few degrees. weather that is true or not, i need the 1 light only in this set up. i am a firm believer in the 1000w-turbo-charged ballasts. i need to keep it a little lower, but that need may go away once i get a light mover. my main concern and questioning lies on set up. am i able to house a linear light mover in a 4x8 tent? will the tent support the mover, the hood and the bulb? is this something i may need to reconsider and possibly build my own grow area? i am renting and do not have much knowledge on design set up. if i fasten the light mover to the ceiling, will this support it better? if so, i may have to build a grow area. like the one i saw in Jorge Cervantes's box set dvd's. i suppose that would be much cheaper, but then i will not have the option of closing and opening up my tent. can anyone please provide me with more info on my design and set up? i think i lucked out with my first set up. i had major problems designing it, setting it up and figuring out exhaustion. thank you for taking the time to read this. sorry for long question, but i am very detailed and i can type fast.

OK!! the thought just came into my mind about the light mover making the hood hang lower. i may adjust this design to 2x600w bulbs. and 2 6" hoods. would i need more exhaust fans? or would one 8" fan suck enough of the heat out?

oHsiN666,
They got this tape that you stick on the black/white plastic (made to block out 99% of the light)cut the plastic and it makes a zipper, I use two zippers 3 feet apart from each other and roll up the center to go in and out.Tie a string to a nail to hold the rolled door up for long visits.



I use a linear mover and it works AWESOME! Yes mount the rail segments to a 1/2" plywood backing board to keep the rail segments aligned perfect and it gives you something to screw thru at the studs in the ceiling. YOU DON'T WANT TO COME IN AND SEE THAT IT FALL ON YOUR GIRLS! I lower or raise the chains as needed. Phatt charcoal filter up high to pull away the heat and awesome smell.


I use 1/2" Mylar coated insulation board sheets on the ground to reflect as much light as possible and it also keeps the pot warm at night. $10/$20 bucks per 4' x 8' sheet.



you should reconsider and possibly build your own grow area But the electric draw may need to be on its own circuit for the whole area. After all you still need fans and timers and stuff.


Good Luck!

i will take you advice. i will also let you know i have decided that i may need 2x600w lights instead. i have to have a tent, and i could build my own, but i have no power tools and hate asking friends for help. i have a really good friend who is helping me with this project. money is always an object, but i can't cut too many corners. i am still debating with this. i have the room. a can NOT make any holes in any walls, as i am a renter. so i am quite debilitated when it comes to my options. i always appreciate good advise! so i will take what you have said into consideration. thanks!!

Fuknluve420 said:

oHsiN666,
They got this tape that you stick on the black/white plastic (made to block out 99% of the light)cut the plastic and it makes a zipper, I use two zippers 3 feet apart from each other and roll up the center to go in and out.Tie a string to a nail to hold the rolled door up for long visits.

View attachment 2036558

I use a linear mover and it works AWESOME! Yes mount the rail segments to a 1/2" plywood backing board to keep the rail segments aligned perfect and it gives you something to screw thru at the studs in the ceiling. YOU DON'T WANT TO COME IN AND SEE THAT IT FALL ON YOUR GIRLS! I lower or raise the chains as needed. Phatt charcoal filter up high to pull away the heat and awesome smell.
View attachment 2036531

I use 1/2" Mylar coated insulation board sheets on the ground to reflect as much light as possible and it also keeps the pot warm at night. $10/$20 bucks per 4' x 8' sheet.

View attachment 2036678

you should reconsider and possibly build your own grow area But the electric draw may need to be on its own circuit for the whole area. After all you still need fans and timers and stuff.


Good Luck!

Click to expand...

ALL GOOD STUFF BRO' Now how can one give "Reps"? And WTF are Reps?

oHsiN666 said:

i will take you advice. i will also let you know i have decided that i may need 2x600w lights instead. i have to have a tent, and i could build my own, but i have no power tools and hate asking friends for help. i have a really good friend who is helping me with this project. money is always an object, but i can't cut too many corners. i am still debating with this. i have the room. a can NOT make any holes in any walls, as i am a renter. so i am quite debilitated when it comes to my options. i always appreciate good advise! so i will take what you have said into consideration. thanks!!

Click to expand...

A few thoughts...
Sun Pulse (.com) has a nifty set-up. For about $85.00 you can get their "splitter". Need to use a magnetic, 1000W HPS ballast and their splitter then off to two reflectors and two of their (only theirs!) Sun Pulse 600Watt Metal Halide bulbs. Also, they offer this and other bulbs in 3K, 4K, 6.4K and 10K. Their Halides have better spectrum coverage, and are warrantied too! could mix 2 in a "GrowZilla" and have a real balanced cannabis spectral array!
Go to: http://www.hydrofarm.com/pb_detail.php?itemid=2343 for more information.
This is also a wholesale only site, but they list dealers hopefully close to you. Most of us dealers will sell & ship anywhere. For more on SunPulse, go to: http://www.sunpulselamps.com/Splitter.html much better information here than HydroFarm.
2) I use linear light rails in my Blooming Room. ABSOLUTELY LOVE THEM! I have eight ( with simple and inexpensive reflectors (they are basically the "Specular Interior" of the common reflector) and 600W HPS bulbs. I didn't discover SunPulse until much after the initial investment. I can always up-grade. Forget about synchronization. It doesn't matter and you'll never achieve it. They are all a tiny, tiny bit different. One RPM would eventually make a difference anyway, and it'll make you crazy trying.
3) A simpler structural method that is cheap, fast, easy, unsightly and causes the least damage to a ceiling. Take a "Lag Hook" of sufficient size and strength (1/4" is most likely) and attach into a ceiling joist as best as you can, directly above the structural rail of the tent that these items (board, light mover, etc.) get attached to, internally. If the mounting location(s) are not within 1" of the center-line of the rail, then I'd recommend a minimum of a 1" X 3" across three joists which is flexible, and allows the location to be where you want and need it. Attached to this hook you'll need a section of chain (also 1/4") and a "turnbuckle" which is then attached to that point on the top of the tent. A "u-bolt" would work nicely, in that it mounts pipe to a flat surface. Put the u-bolts "bolts down" (2 holes will penetrate) after attaching the chain link at the top, on the curve of the bolt. In summary, bottom up: u-bolt; chain; turn-buckle; (chain optional); ceiling hook... Adjust the rigidity and strength force by simply turning the turn-buckle. Very, very accurate and easy to install. Will hold hundreds of pounds (not the bud, sorry).

also, I forgot....
You can patch the hole from the lag bolt at the ceiling, almost invisibly. Use a cheap latex caulk, hopefully, that is a close color match. You should avoid any damage charges. That's what their painter is gonna' use...

i personal know a very good drywaller. hes been doing it since hes been 16. hes now 32. so half his life as a drywaller. ill trust his work. i think they are caller "tapers" though. anyways. to give rep, that start under my name next to the triangle with exclamation point in it...that is where you can provide rep. and i appreciate you for doing so

all i know. is the thing that is my major debate right now is heat. i know ill need an ac unit in the summer. that s a known fact. but, do i need 8" exhaust fan? or 6"? i have the XXXL Magnum hood. its 8". i didnt know they made a XXXL 6" til after i bought and installed the hood. but they do make em. my tents exhaust ports are at 6". thats a fucking design flaw in my book. they should really give you 1 of each. i got around that no biggie. i had a door in that room that literally lead to nowhere. its a crazy designed townhouse. this door literally leads to nothing but an outside room enclosed. something my g/f knew i would need. so my heat is exhausted out threw there and the portable a/c unit i have hooked up is exhausted out there. but see, this room is already taken up and i have no room for a bigger tent in that room. the new 4x8 has to go int he other room. i have heard of people clogging their a/c vents with a t-shirt or something and exhausting into there. that is what i have thought about. that is my major delema. and the choice between 1x1000w or 2x600w. i was told the 600w will be more lumans. but overall it will be, not over the 4x4 area. see my delema. to linear track or not to linear track! that is thee question. lmfao!!